Peugeot 407 2.0 HDI: Oil/Coolant Temperature Range, Air Build-up, Overheating Post-Kapela Drive

Hello,

At the outset, what should the temperature of the oil and coolant be while driving?
Mi shows fluid temperature 60-65 °C (i.e. 1 dash above the minimum) and oil temperature 110-120 °C (half of the range)
I think the temperature of the liquid is too low and I honestly don't know if it was like that before or if it was around 80-90 °C.

I have a car for a short time (I did about 2,000 km with it), it is from a steady hand, so nothing was combined with it, etc.

Returning today from Karpacz, with 2-3 km after driving "Kapela" (a large hill) between Jelenia Góra and Złotoryja, the car stated that it has little coolant (probably?) - the "cooler" control on the display between the clocks + sound signal and after a while the sign "STOP", so I drove from 500 meters and stopped.
(coolant temperature around 70 °C, oil temperature 120 °C - i.e. normal)

I opened the hood, as if everything was normal, the radiator fan was 100% off, I also had 100% coolant around the maximum (oil is also controlled by the oil), the expansion tank was not somehow very hot, I waited with the engine turned off around 5 minutes and out of curiosity, I gently and carefully unscrewed the cap from the reservoir, 1 hose as if it was sucking the liquid, the other one was sucking air into the reservoir, the reservoir is like 2-chamber - overflow and the result was about 2.5l of fluid spilling outside the reservoir ...

... hmm, okay, my (I think) stupidity, I had 1l of liquid with me, I added it, waited for a good 15 minutes for the car to cool down, there was a petrol station 8 km away, I bought 2 liters there and I added 2.5 liters in total - evenly to the max, so by the "eye" it was because of unscrewing the cork about 2 liters spilled out.

The house was left with 50 km, after driving 25 km, I made a small stop, after a few minutes I unscrewed something there only hissed a little, so ok, another 25 km and I'm at home, after a few minutes of stopping, I unscrew the cap and the liquid breaks out again, I don't know how much that it crashed because I turned it back, waited another 15 minutes and it did not fire anymore.

The fluid has not been replaced for a long time (the previous owner had a car for 3 years and knows little about it and does not know if it was replaced at all), the first 1l I added blue, the next 1.5l is pink, as if both are miscible with other liquids - so yes can stay for now?

The liquid currently smells a bit like a burn, but it is not a very strong "smell", you just smell something there, and I smelled it, warm.

Could something have happened or it just took air and this delicate burning smell is normal or the liquid has not been replaced for a long time?

Tomorrow I would like to drive to work by car, and I have 25 km one way, and it is known that I will not be able to go to the mechanic.

What do you think, any advice?

Perhaps the head gasket has just broken.

Strumien swiadomosci swia wrote:

Perhaps the head gasket has just broken.

For what reason? Because the car did not give any symptoms ...

It was hard to say that something hurt him, I changed the timing, oil in the box (because it is an automatic machine), engine oil, a set of filters and rods because they had small slack ... the mechanic also said that the car is ok, and he got it for the weekend to ride it a little.

Hello, I would suspect that the thermostat is inoperative, during the return ride you correctly vented the cooling system where you changed about 3 liters of fluid for 5.5 liters in the system
Or maybe it was not a liquid that poured out, only water? Constant control of the quality of the fluid and its condition!

In winter, the car ran without problems, so if it did not freeze it was probably liquid?

But as for this liquid, I poured pink and blue, and putting a handkerchief into the container out of curiosity to see the color of the liquid, it can be said that it is colorless, maybe slightly yellowish (no traces of oil).
I have never penetrated these colors either, but something is wrong here?

And after the return trip, all the pipes to and from the radiator were hot?

I did not check the pipes that thoroughly. The cooler had a temperature similar to the temperature of the tank, touching it for a fraction of a second felt "hot" - you know that with your hand otherwise and it's safe to check it. ;)

And what exactly does the coolant indicator light mean between the clocks on the display? Too high temperature, too high pressure or too little?
Temperature probably not, unless it has sensors in 2 different places?
Level? It was almost max.

Do a coolant exhaust gas test.
You have to replace the thermostat, the working temperature of this engine is 82 degrees. C.
Also check that you have all gears of the radiator fan in working order, it is very important due to the automatic mechanism.

Adam1988 wrote:

Also check that you have all gears of the radiator fan in working order, it is very important due to the automatic mechanism.

How? I know that a mechanic can do it, but it's nice to be sure that something works and you know how to check it.

The computer, unfortunately, - test of actuators, the presence of errors.

There was only an error from the pillow, because the mechanic deleted it recently, and another question, of course, I bought the car at the beginning with a copied display (a factory defect and mine from 2007 was still caught) and I do not know if I could see this error from the pillow from the display level, but, for example, a burnt bulb, I can see what errors he gives me from the display?

I know that Citroen C5 100% shows errors from EGR, clogged FAP or no refrigerant.

Airbag error, for example, will show because it is quite an important system. Fap, egr will also show because it's EKOlogy
Fan error (especially 1st gear) will not show.
Of course, it will not show on the clocks because there will be an error in the engine controller.
PS: as for the fluid level sensor, these sensors fall sometimes and show that there is no fluid while physically it is, the sensor is resistive, so the quality (age?) Of the fluid also has something to say

Adam1988 wrote:

there is no fluid while it is physically there, the sensor is resistive so the quality (age?) of the fluid also has something to say

So it could be "such a situation" that it was a message from a low fluid level, the fluid was, the sensor worked incorrectly, and I just have a thermostat screwed up and that's it?
Everything else is ok, same with this 2l of liquid? If the system has a capacity of 5.5 liters, it "spat out" a bit.

Added after 17 [hours] 11 [minutes]:

That's 1 more question, does the 407 have a coolant level sensor?

Because I was at the mechanic's today and he says no, and what he displayed was overheating of the engine from some sensor, it's good that I stopped, it was wrong that I moved the cap, the thermostat to be replaced, the fluid too, and rather that's a preliminary diagnosis.

2 temperature sensors to be, or the tip can be kicked for me? But there is something wrong with the bank, because he was a mechanic during the stop and the fan did not turn on, and according to him it should already be.

Quote:

That's 1 more question, does the 407 have a coolant level sensor?

Some have, the other not - a black cube on the tank

Quote:

2 temperature sensors to be,

the sensor is one.

Quote:

But there is something wrong with the bank, because he was a mechanic during the stop and the fan did not turn on, and according to him it should already be.

Computer connected or should it? Were there any mistakes? What temperature ? What control?
If he has not connected and if he proposes to change the mechanic - seriously ...

Well, mine doesn't have a fluid amount sensor.

He did not connect, because he did not have time, next week I will leave his car for him, he generally knows himself, so he will get it.

Added after 4 [hours] 38 [minutes]:

I was at another mechanic and I did not like him too much, a text like first PLN 150 for connecting to a computer and diagnosis, and then looking for what and how ... and the first one has no time yet.

Do you know what the value of an efficient water temperature sensor in the thermostat should show on the ohmmeter? Because I will replace it myself without a problem, but I prefer to check it first, with the thermostat myself, it will be a bit of fun from what I looked at. And I measure it, I understand it with an ohmmeter, on the contacts after removing the cube from it?

20st.C - 6,2kΩ
80st.C - 580Ω

Ok thanks, I'll check tomorrow!