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Removing Stiga e331 Electric Mower Engine: Tips for Rubber Mounts & Bearing Replacement

mariobros87 13653 12
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  • #1 16663632
    mariobros87
    Level 7  
    Posts: 8
    Rate: 6
    Hello,

    I would like to remove the engine from the Stiga e331 electric mower but I don't know how much because the engine is mounted in some rubber and I don't know how to go about it. And I need to get it out to unscrew it and replace the bearing. Thanks for the hints.
    Removing Stiga e331 Electric Mower Engine: Tips for Rubber Mounts & Bearing Replacement Removing Stiga e331 Electric Mower Engine: Tips for Rubber Mounts & Bearing Replacement Removing Stiga e331 Electric Mower Engine: Tips for Rubber Mounts & Bearing Replacement
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  • #2 16663773
    januszx3
    Level 31  
    Posts: 954
    Help: 214
    Rate: 419
    mariobros87 wrote:
    I would like to remove the engine from the Stiga e331 electric mower but I don't know how much because the engine is mounted in some rubber and I don't know how to go about it.

    From the photo, the housing of an identical model of the mower, it appears that the engine sits only in the rubber:

    Removing Stiga e331 Electric Mower Engine: Tips for Rubber Mounts & Bearing Replacement , ... look carefully at the geometry of fixing feet in rubbers, .. and rubbers in the housing: Removing Stiga e331 Electric Mower Engine: Tips for Rubber Mounts & Bearing Replacement
    Removing Stiga e331 Electric Mower Engine: Tips for Rubber Mounts & Bearing Replacement ... From this photo it follows that the rubbers themselves are not solid, but they have a more flexible structure, because the chamber, ... and the side edges are not parallel to the axis of the engine, ... and this is a vertical blockage, when removing the engine from the housing.
    Take a look, because you can see how to pry to deform, move the rubber, and the engine will "pop out"
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  • #3 16668250
    mariobros87
    Level 7  
    Posts: 8
    Rate: 6
    Can anyone help this engine out? I also do not know what key to unscrew these mounting screws because many have tried and none match.
  • #4 16668393
    Michelson
    Level 26  
    Posts: 790
    Help: 82
    Rate: 304
    And all of these rubbers can not be removed?
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  • #5 16668405
    wojtek1234321
    Level 36  
    Posts: 3553
    Help: 306
    Rate: 1118
    In my opinion it is he who is pressed into this "plastic" body, together with these rubbers / shock absorbers. And the same should be taken out, or "pull out" along with these rubber inserts. Before disassembly, for lighter removal these are the places (red arrows):

    Removing Stiga e331 Electric Mower Engine: Tips for Rubber Mounts & Bearing Replacement

    Soaked / smeared with e.g. dishwashing liquid e.g. Ludwik might be easier to remove.
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  • #6 16668774
    mariobros87
    Level 7  
    Posts: 8
    Rate: 6
    Michelson wrote:
    And all of these rubbers can not be removed?
    I don't even want to move. Sitting firmly.

    Added after 11 [minutes]:

    wojtek1234321 wrote:
    In my opinion it is he who is pressed into this "plastic" body, together with these rubbers / shock absorbers. And the same should be taken out, or "pull out" along with these rubber inserts. Before disassembly, for lighter removal these are the places (red arrows):

    Removing Stiga e331 Electric Mower Engine: Tips for Rubber Mounts & Bearing Replacement

    Soaked / smeared with e.g. dishwashing liquid e.g. Ludwik might be easier to remove.


    I used WD40. I tried to knock on the wood with a hammer from below and it didn't work either.
  • #7 16668875
    wojtek1234321
    Level 36  
    Posts: 3553
    Help: 306
    Rate: 1118
    mariobros87 wrote:
    I used WD40. I tried to knock on the wood with a hammer from below and it didn't work either.

    No WD-40 for rubber it may be a bit ... :| that he would not dissolve them, that these gums would not "swell" from this center. I suggested some dishwashing liquid because these rubbers got a good "slip" in the housing and it was easier to pull them out. Similarly, how to lubricate sewer pipes when folding / pressing into the flares one into the other, then it is easier to install after lubrication and the gaskets in the flares will not be damaged, and easier / lighter assembly, and the rubber seal will not suffer either.
  • #8 20569649
    Bcstomek
    Level 2  
    Posts: 3
    Hello and welcome. I'll get on the topic. I got such a mower in the fall and I don't even know if it works but the two protein circuits are not connected to anything - they are loose - my question is where to connect them?
    Attachments:
    • Removing Stiga e331 Electric Mower Engine: Tips for Rubber Mounts & Bearing Replacement stig-e331.jpg (63.87 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • #9 20570333
    Bcstomek
    Level 2  
    Posts: 3
    Welcome back. I dug into the picture - what is it, where can I buy it?
    Attachments:
    • Removing Stiga e331 Electric Mower Engine: Tips for Rubber Mounts & Bearing Replacement e331-a.jpg (223.91 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • #10 20570348
    jerry1960
    Level 37  
    Posts: 3013
    Help: 283
    Rate: 1549
    Capacitor. Purchase possible in a good electrical store, read the values \u200b\u200bof the old one.
  • #11 20570391
    Bcstomek
    Level 2  
    Posts: 3
    The problem, because I don't have the old one and I don't have parameters, instructions. Maybe someone has one and can tell me what it should be like.
  • #12 20570436
    ta_tar
    Level 41  
    Posts: 6438
    Help: 693
    Rate: 2027
    Bcstomek wrote:
    What is this
    Capacitor.
  • #13 20570870
    jerry1960
    Level 37  
    Posts: 3013
    Help: 283
    Rate: 1549
    You choose the capacitor according to the motor power.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the removal of the engine from the Stiga e331 electric mower, focusing on the challenges posed by rubber mounts and the need for bearing replacement. Users share insights on the engine's mounting structure, suggesting that the engine is secured within flexible rubber mounts that may require careful manipulation to extract. Recommendations include using dishwashing liquid for lubrication to ease removal, as opposed to WD-40, which could damage the rubber. Some users express difficulties in unscrewing the mounting screws, indicating a lack of compatible tools. Additional queries about loose connections related to capacitors are also raised, highlighting the need for proper identification and replacement of components.
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FAQ

TL;DR: To remove a Stiga e331 motor, work the rubber isolators free—“the engine sits only in the rubber.” Three photos in the thread show the mount geometry. Use dish soap as lube, not WD‑40. [Elektroda, januszx3, post #16663773]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps DIYers safely free the motor, replace bearings, and reconnect the capacitor without damaging rubber mounts or the plastic deck.

Quick Facts

How do I actually get the Stiga e331 motor out of the rubber mounts?

Pull the motor out with the rubber inserts as one piece. Wet the rubber edges with dish soap to reduce friction, then pry evenly around the feet to deform the rubber and walk it out of the plastic deck. Do not start by removing hidden screws. [Elektroda, wojtek1234321, post #16668405]

Why won’t the rubber mounts budge even after prying?

The isolators lock vertically because their side edges aren’t parallel to the motor axis. Deforming the rubber is required so the feet clear the housing lips. Reference photos in the thread show this geometry in three views. [Elektroda, januszx3, post #16663773]

Is WD‑40 safe to use on the rubber mounts?

No. A user warns WD‑40 can swell or soften rubber, making removal and reassembly worse. Use a mild surfactant like dish soap instead. "No WD‑40 for rubber" is the key takeaway here. [Elektroda, wojtek1234321, post #16668875]

What lubricant actually helps slide the mounts out?

Dishwashing liquid thins friction at the rubber–plastic interface and protects the gaskets during removal, similar to plumbing seal assembly. Apply a small amount around each mount lip before prying. [Elektroda, wojtek1234321, post #16668405]

Which tool fits the engine mounting screws on the e331?

Users reported many keys didn’t match before freeing the unit. Remove the motor together with the rubbers first to expose and correctly gauge the fasteners, then select the proper bit. [Elektroda, mariobros87, post #16668250]

Can I remove the rubber inserts by themselves?

Yes, but remove them with the motor as an assembly. Lubricate the mount edges, pry evenly, and pull the rubber-sleeved feet out of the plastic deck, then separate on the bench. [Elektroda, wojtek1234321, post #16668405]

What’s the safe way to tap the motor out without cracking the deck?

Do not strike the deck directly. If tapping, buffer with a wood block under the motor and apply gentle, even force while prying the mounts. If it resists, add more soap. [Elektroda, mariobros87, post #16668774]

Those two loose wires near the motor—what are they?

They connect to the motor’s capacitor. Replace or refit the capacitor in its bracket and attach the two leads as designed for the e331 harness. [Elektroda, jerry1960, post #20570348]

What capacitor value should I buy for the e331 if the old one is missing?

Select the capacitor based on the motor’s power rating. As one expert put it, “You choose the capacitor according to the motor power.” Check the e331 motor plate first. [Elektroda, jerry1960, post #20570870]

Where do the capacitor leads connect after I source a replacement?

They go to the capacitor terminals mounted near the motor. Route the two loose wires to the new capacitor and secure them per the e331’s original layout. [Elektroda, jerry1960, post #20570348]

Why is prying from one side ineffective on these mounts?

Uneven force cocks the rubber, increasing binding against the deck lips. Work around the perimeter and deform the isolator evenly so the feet clear vertically. See the thread’s three annotated photos. [Elektroda, januszx3, post #16663773]

Quick steps: how do I free the motor for a bearing change?

  1. Wet each rubber mount’s lip with dish soap.
  2. Pry evenly around all feet to deform and lift the assembly out.
  3. Bench the unit, then access screws and proceed with bearing service. [Elektroda, wojtek1234321, post #16668405]

Edge case: what if WD‑40 already got on the mounts?

Inspect for swelling or softening. If the rubber looks tacky or enlarged, let it dry fully, then try dish soap. Replace damaged mounts before reassembly to avoid vibration. [Elektroda, wojtek1234321, post #16668875]

How can I confirm the mount geometry before I start prying?

Study the three close-up photos in the thread. They show non-parallel side edges and chambered sections that explain the vertical lock during removal. [Elektroda, januszx3, post #16663773]
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