Chrysler 300m 2.7 V6 Engine Timing Procedure: Chain Tensioner, Timing Lock & Oil Pressure

Hello. I refer the problem to my colleagues because I do not want to make a costly mistake a second time. I mean the so-called timing procedure on a chrysler 300m with a 2.7 V6 engine. I heard somewhere on the internet that there is a special procedure for this. I am not talking about the alignment points of the shaft and camshafts, because that is what I know. I am talking mainly about this timing chain tensioner that is stretched by oil pressure. I do not know whether it should be mounted "closed" and wait until it is filled with oil, or mounted open. The so-called timing lock to prevent damage to the timing. I do not know if this is to secure the chain when removing the tensioner, so that it does not jump, or if it also has other uses. Please help.

The locks are on the camshafts so that they do not turn when you remove the chain, otherwise you will be setting it forever and you will bend the valves by the way.

You put the tensioner closed, you fold everything and the chain. Finally you push down on the tensioner and it opens and pre-tightens the chain. And that's it .

Thank you. this is what I ment. greetings

This blockade is quite a good idea, in fact, it helps the chain tensioner so that the slide on which the chain works does not burden the tensioner with its vibrations, which likes to break often, which loses the oil pressure in the entire bus and thus blurring the bushings, I myself a few years ago I used such a patent, I only made it from thick sheet metal, minimum 3-4mm, and it passes the exam even after replacing the timing gear, because if you buy a Taiwanese g-well, like I did it, at least this lock will help in the life of the entire timing gear

In general, it was with this lock, I meant more about the one that is installed temporarily for the time of replacing the tensioner. Your buddy Concord concept is interesting. Explain exactly how you made this tensioner, and you blocked the oil channel of the tensioner? Have you been driving with such a solution for a long time? As for me and my car, the car is still standing and not driving. The reason for this is worn bushings. I just don't know if I got them with this tensioner or if they ended before. He also consults on the chrysler300.pl forum, but there is also little knowledge about the 2.7 engine

I did a little with the "eye" method, but I generally did something similar to what they sell on the Allegro, I drove for about 50,000 km and the effect is because because of a bit of a mechanic, the engine had better lubrication (more pressure) because you could hear it after work engine was just quieter

Concord2001 what have you changed in the tensioner?
Yesterday, while driving, the tensioner popped out of the engine block. It made a nice hole and it got messed up. No idea what was the reason. Vibrations? Weakening of the casting? What do you think?

There had to be something wrong with the tensioner - it might have been jammed completely. Even when inflated it gently cushions. Something could also have happened along the route of the chain, e.g. something fell between the chain and the sprocket and tightened the chain tightly, causing the tensioner to be pushed out. I feel sorry.

Exactly a year ago, I replaced the complete timing (chains, wheels, tensioner). The car did 10,000 km and you have it! It is possible that the element was already cracked? This casting looks quite strange. There is relatively little pure metal in the fracture of the casting, and the material itself is aluminum.
Could the reason be wrong tightening? Or maybe a material defect?