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[Solved] Renault Scenic 1 dti 2001: Glow Plugs Not Heating, Red Cable Supply Relay, Fuse Check, Burn Out

kalafior3018 8841 16
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How can I find why the glow plugs on a 2001 Renault Scenic 1.9 dTi have no power at the relay feed, even though they heat when supplied directly from a battery?

The fault was a burnt/open red supply cable from the under-hood fuse box to the glow plug relay, so the relay never received power [#17557443] Check the large 70A under-hood fuse that feeds this wire and verify continuity from the fuse box to the relay with a meter [#16755356][#16760974] Since the glow plugs heat normally when powered directly, the plugs themselves are likely OK and the problem is in the feed wiring or its connection to the relay [#17557443]
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  • #1 16755316
    kalafior3018
    Level 6  
    Posts: 185
    Help: 1
    Rate: 11
    Hello, I do not heat glow plugs in Renault Scenic 1 dti 2001. There is no power on the red cable
    supplying the glow plug relay. Earlier I wrote that everything I could check was fuses. I will add that when I gave the current using a separate battery cable for this cable, the candles heat up. I don't know if I can leave it this way. I am asking for advice, what else can I check. And could this cable burn out? I am sorry that I did not describe this problem the first time. Thank you for all advices in advance.
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  • Helpful post
    #2 16755356
    moto-kord
    Level 28  
    Posts: 800
    Help: 137
    Rate: 502
    Look for a large fuse under the hood, probably 70A he is from glow plugs.
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    #3 16756886
    ADAMO66
    Level 11  
    Posts: 20
    Help: 1
    Rate: 13
    Hello. Here's the diagram.
    Attachments:
    • Renault Megane_Scenic.pdf (354.66 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • #4 16757329
    kalafior3018
    Level 6  
    Posts: 185
    Help: 1
    Rate: 11
    Hello, the fuse checked, I even bought a new one. Nothing more. Could this cable burn out, or
    has a break. Should have some resistance. how can i check it without ripping the installation. Is there
    four relays maybe they turn on the current. I am asking for advice. Thank you
  • Helpful post
    #5 16757550
    moto-kord
    Level 28  
    Posts: 800
    Help: 137
    Rate: 502
    What is your power 72 or 59kw ?.
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    #6 16760974
    moto-kord
    Level 28  
    Posts: 800
    Help: 137
    Rate: 502
    70A fuse goes this red wire to the glow plug relay. Remove
    fuse and check the passage meter.
  • #7 16882202
    Heazis
    Level 10  
    Posts: 18
    Rate: 8
    I have the same problem with the fact that I have current on the controller from a 12.6 V battery is the transition from candles to the controller after turning the ignition comes current to the controller 111.6 but I have no current on the candles damaged controller or some temperature sensor or maybe something else
  • #8 16882230
    moto-kord
    Level 28  
    Posts: 800
    Help: 137
    Rate: 502
    The glow plug light comes on ?.
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  • #9 16882450
    melas
    Level 31  
    Posts: 1552
    Help: 138
    Rate: 685
    There, the fuse is on Aku, but I've already replaced the power cable to the relay twice.
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  • #10 16882876
    Heazis
    Level 10  
    Posts: 18
    Rate: 8
    This is how the glow plug indicator in the car lights up.

    Added after 3 [hours] 46 [minutes]:

    melas wrote:
    There, the fuse is on Aku, but I've already replaced the power cable to the relay twice.

    I have electricity on the relay
  • #11 16884886
    moto-kord
    Level 28  
    Posts: 800
    Help: 137
    Rate: 502
    Heazis wrote:
    I have electricity on the relay

    Try to activate the relay and check if there is electricity in the candles.
  • #12 16885046
    melas
    Level 31  
    Posts: 1552
    Help: 138
    Rate: 685
    You checked this power cable with a minimum 55w light bulb, if you found it with a meter.
  • #13 16885064
    Heazis
    Level 10  
    Posts: 18
    Rate: 8
    I checked the 10w meter and bulb
  • #14 16886626
    moto-kord
    Level 28  
    Posts: 800
    Help: 137
    Rate: 502
    Heazis wrote:
    10w light bulb

    Check with a more powerful light bulb as molasses colleague wrote.
    You did what I wrote in the 11th post ?.
  • #15 16887102
    Heazis
    Level 10  
    Posts: 18
    Rate: 8
    moto-kord wrote:

    Try to activate the relay and check if there is electricity in the candles.


    Somehow I missed this post and yet you can easily check at least under the load of one candle
    I bought the driver but that's not it
    Now I checked everything calmly, I redirected the current from the (+) constant on the controller to the individual four candles and on each of them the 55w lamp was lit as I put on the candles and connected the meter was about 11.6v
    But by measuring the other two wires from the ignition, on one I found mass lasting a few or several seconds, and on the other meter I measured 11V current that lasts as much as the pump from the fuel only from this current I did not want to light even a small light bulb
  • #16 16891010
    Heazis
    Level 10  
    Posts: 18
    Rate: 8
    I have no idea why but I tried to turn on the + and - driver from the battery and it failed and the driver has a new original
    Of course, I connected via a light bulb
  • #17 17557443
    kalafior3018
    Level 6  
    Posts: 185
    Help: 1
    Rate: 11
    My problem of not heating the candles was the burned cable leading to the glow plug relay from the fuse box under the hood. Subject closes the problem solved

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a 2001 Renault Scenic 1 dti experiencing issues with glow plugs not heating due to a lack of power on the red cable supplying the glow plug relay. Users suggest checking a large 70A fuse under the hood and verifying the integrity of the power cable to the relay. The author confirms that the fuse has been replaced and inquires about potential cable burnouts or breaks. Several users recommend testing the power cable with a light bulb to check for resistance and suggest that the problem may stem from a burned cable leading to the glow plug relay, which the author later confirms as the solution to the issue.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Renault Scenic 1 dTi glow-plug faults often trace to the 70A under‑hood fuse feed; “Look for a large fuse under the hood.” Fix power to the relay/red cable, then test under load. [Elektroda, moto-kord, post #16755356]

Quick Facts

Who is this FAQ for and what problem does it solve?

Owners of Renault Scenic 1 dTi (circa 2001) with glow plugs not heating. It explains how to diagnose the power feed, fuse, relay, and loom to restore proper preheating. [Elektroda, kalafior3018, post #16755316]

What’s the most common root cause in this thread?

A burned red cable between the under‑hood fuse box and the glow plug relay. Replacing that cable restored preheating and closed the case. [Elektroda, kalafior3018, post #17557443]

Where is the glow plug fuse and what rating is it?

Under the hood near the battery. It’s a large 70A fuse that supplies the glow plug relay via the red cable. [Elektroda, moto-kord, post #16755356]

How do I check the red supply cable without ripping the harness?

Remove the 70A fuse and meter continuity end‑to‑end. Then load‑test the cable with a bulb to reveal hidden high‑resistance faults. [Elektroda, moto-kord, post #16760974]

Is a multimeter enough, or should I use a test lamp?

Use a load like a 55W bulb. A 10W lamp lit during tests but gave misleading confidence. “Check with a more powerful light bulb.” [Elektroda, moto-kord, post #16886626]

How do I test the relay output to the glow plugs?

Manually trigger preheat, then feed the plug lines and confirm a 55W bulb lights and voltage is about 11.6 V under load. [Elektroda, Heazis, post #16887102]

My glow plug light comes on, but the plugs stay cold. Why?

The dash light can operate while the power path is faulty. Confirm relay activation and voltage at each plug under load. [Elektroda, Heazis, post #16882876]

Does engine power (59 kW vs 72 kW) change the glow circuit?

Both variants follow the same principle: a 70A fuse feeds the relay via the red wire. Verify the feed first. [Elektroda, moto-kord, post #16760974]

What quick 3‑step diagnosis should I follow?

  1. Pull and inspect the 70A under‑hood fuse.
  2. With the fuse out, meter continuity; then load‑test the red cable.
  3. Refit, trigger preheat, and probe relay output to each plug. [Elektroda, moto-kord, post #16760974]

Is it okay to power the red cable directly from the battery as a workaround?

Use a temporary feed only to confirm the circuit, then repair the root cause. The lasting fix here was replacing the burned cable. [Elektroda, kalafior3018, post #17557443]

I replaced the controller, but it still won’t power up on the bench. Edge case?

One user reported a new original controller wouldn’t power when fed +/− directly via a lamp. Suspect wiring or control signals. [Elektroda, Heazis, post #16891010]

How can I confirm the relay has constant battery supply?

Check for 12 V at the relay’s thick feed from the 70A fuse. If absent, trace the red cable back to the fuse box. [Elektroda, moto-kord, post #16760974]

What if I have power at the relay but no power at the plugs?

Activate the relay and test at each plug with a 55W bulb. If the lamp stays dark, suspect relay contacts or downstream wiring. [Elektroda, moto-kord, post #16884886]

Is there a wiring overview I can reference while testing?

Yes—use the shared diagram as a guide for the battery‑fuse‑relay‑plug path during voltage and continuity checks. [Elektroda, ADAMO66, post #16756886]
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