Analyzing the Correctness of Simple CO Installation Diagram in an Open System with Copper Pipes

I warmly welcome. I have a great request to those familiar with the topic of a simple diagram of a CO installation in an open system.
I put the scheme that I want to do and I have a question if it is correct. The drawing is general, valves, air vents, safety valves, tank protecting the boiler, etc. are coming
I am asking for an opinion whether the system connected in this way will work properly. The boiler is supposed to work by gravity when the pump turns off, which pushes water to the radiators in a forced system. A detector will be installed in the pump, which will turn it off after the temperature drops, which will prevent the water from cooling out of the DHW. Thank you in advance for any suggestions.
greetings
I would like to add that the installation was made of copper, the riser pipe I wanted to give 22 or 25 copper.


Installation at this time is done as shown in the second drawing. The expansion vessel plugged into the back with Pex raises my concerns. The differential valve also seems unnecessary to me, since the radiator system works in a forced system, it would be enough to install the pump as in the first drawing. I don't know if I think correctly.

Thank you for your answer. Regarding the differential valve - after switching off the pump, e.g. in the absence of gravity current on the radiators, it will not be because the circulation is forced, only gravity will circulate the water to the hot water boiler. The dish will be under the ceiling above the stove, height about 3.2 m.
Is the diagram in the first drawing correct then?
The biggest reservations I have about the existing installation presented in the second drawing - a vessel connected with a 15-16 mm pex into the oven. It seems to me that this is not consistent with the so-called safety standards. Do I think right?

I also think that the differential valve is unnecessary since after switching off the pump there is no gravity. Before the pump I wanted to connect the boiler so that when the pump was turned off there was gravity on the boiler. As e.g. the water temperature will drop and the pump will turn off it will protect the boiler against cooling down because the radiators will not receive heat. I am not an expert but I think about human logic. The current installation was made by a plumber but it seems to me that it is not necessary "complicated" + a dish that on the pex is probably a mistake. Thank you very much for your reply.

I drew a modified layout of an existing installation. That the connected vessel will be properly.

allow me to hook up on the topic not to set one up on the installation scheme. I am finishing creating my installation and I would like to consult with experts about my project. It is true that he was created with the help of his dad, who is a plumber and makes large boiler rooms, but always with a ready project, and he is not sure what we created. The house will eventually have an area of about 200 sq m, but I won't be able to use the floor, it is 120 sq m. The furnace for now is as it is, garbage truck from Pleszew uks-n 14kw. after renovation it will be changed. Open system, all pipes for steel manifolds (diameters marked in the picture), behind pex wavin 16 manifolds. 4-way valve 6/4 inch, in my opinion a bit to spare but I leave it to your assessment. What do you think about the Biawar WE 220.81 heat exchanger, MEGA 220l heat exchanger, they advised me at the warehouse. The number of thermometers is my idea, I prefer to have everything under control thank you in advance for your help and I count on valuable tips

Siber2 wrote:

I drew a modified layout of an existing installation. That the connected vessel will be properly

No.

Added after 3 [minutes]:

chudino wrote:

I count on valuable tips

Supply thermometer, give one behind the pump. The temperature will be the same on both distributors. Correct diagram.

and the diameters of ru, valve and pump ok?

What are the 80 pumps for? Is this a block?

gersik wrote:

What are the 80 pumps for? Is this a block?

I got 2 new ones and wanted to use it. Their power can cause a problem?

Unnecessary energy consumption and installation noise may occur.

What do you recommend for a bunk house? From the stove to the highest point or dishes will be some 7-8m.

Pumps 25-40.

and another question about the size of a 4-way valve. If the installation certainly won't work by gravity and the pump has a DN25 connection, is it a dream to mount a 6/4 inch valve? Maybe to reduce to 1 inch before the valve, give an inch valve and then a inch to the pump?

If there is no pump in the boiler circuit, then the valve and the entire boiler circuit 6/4 ". Behind the 4d valve you can reduce to 1". After all, you drew all this so why you want to change.

and because he fooled me in a warehouse guy and claimed that a 1 inch 4d valve is enough

If you add a boiler pump, yes.

He has already forgotten to say that so I leave it as at the beginning, only with these smaller pumps which you advised me. Thank you for your valuable advice

Hello. Maybe not in the subject but what do you think about my diagram? I'm getting ready to complete the central one. house 180m2 ground floor oven defro eco 15kw with feeder
thanks in advance