Peugeot 607 2.2 HDI Fuel Pump Issue: Original vs Replacement, Non-stop Humming & Frequent Breaks

marcin-mkpeugot wrote:

no, if I turn the ignition on, it will buzz and go out for a few seconds, but when the car fires, it hums all the time much louder than the original, which was not heard while the engine was running.

The electric pump in the tank works non-stop after starting the engine. He has to work all the time anyway. If it stops running while driving, the engine immediately cuts out because the high pressure pump (pwc) and the injectors are not getting fuel. Simply, even Solomon will not pour from an empty one ...

The first common suspect of failures in the feed pump is electric power supply , more specifically - power outages due to damage (interruption) of the cables at the input to the plug (photo).

I struggled with my pump several times, because every time I changed the plug to a new one and soldered the cables, they broke and lost contact. As a result, the pump "lost" power. And even - as in the photo - the plug burned due to a short circuit and an electric arc (red arrows).

I figured the reason is simply a bad plug setting Vertical , not horizontal as in other types of Peugeot. When positioned vertically, it constantly presses the sofa plug from above and bends the power cables. After some time they break under the influence of vibrations and pressure, hence the power failure.

Mounting the pump, or at least the lid with the plug horizontal that is not in contact with the couch and the plastic lid, should solve the problem once and for all.

Kisses KotBury2

kkknc wrote:

Probably too cheap pump or burned out contacts. A cheap pump for cars without DPF is PLN 200 and less, but the company is about PLN 600.

Unfortunately, it is not only about "cheapness", but the correct selection of the type of pump. It is not for nothing that the manufacturer provided for the arrangement of the electric cube vertically or horizontally. In my case, a pump with a vertical plug was probably inserted during the repair by the first owner. through the plastic cover of the inspection hole and the seat cushion (especially when someone has a heavy seat on the back).

After replacing the lid (cover), not the entire pump, the problem of the loss of electric power disappeared because the cables are not broken by the chair.

Below is a photo with a new electric pump, which as a result I did not install, because the new lid had too thin fuel connectors (poor fake). I only replaced the lid on an old, fully functional pump. The old cover had a burned hole by an electric arc, caused by a short circuit, as I mentioned previously.

I bought the lid separately for pennies on the Allegro. But it turned out to be another misfire due to the vertical position of the plug. For the third time, I replaced it with a lid with a horizontal plug. And only then this ailment lost its raison d'etre ...

I would like to emphasize that the original electric pump (orange arrow) is still in the tank, which is placed in a plastic basket with a fuel level sensor, cables and fuel lines. I only changed the cover with fuel connectors and the 4-pin electric plug.

Unfortunately, these operations were neither easy nor cheap. First, I had to disassemble the tank every time to be able to unscrew the pump cover.

Second, the most problematic was disconnecting the very stiff plastic fuel lines inside the pump. I had to heat them with a heat gun so that they could slide off the connectors. And then heat it up again to put it on the new / old lid.

But this is a separate story ... If someone is interested, I invite you to private.

Kisses KotBury

marcin-mkpeugot wrote:

I am terribly surprised, however, that the pump still fails, despite the fact that it was a replacement, it would happen after less than a week, both replacement did not last longer ...

After all, you can check it very easily, connecting with long cables with "snout" terminals to the battery. You bypass the intermediary elements like double relay fuse that may be damaged. If you have not checked this way, the situation may be that you will buy 3 more pumps (and you will have 6 in total), and the fault will not disappear anyway ...

Kisses KotBury2

andrzej20001 wrote:

The pump does not rain since the power failure.

Buddy, the pump does not fail due to the lack of power, but the power goes out, for example, from a damaged double relay. When the relay "clicks", the circuit closes and the pump starts. If the relay contacts are burned out or tarnished, then there is a contact sometimes, and sometimes not. Hence, the pump works one time and not the other. Normal and frequent phenomenon of "wobbly contacts".

An ingenious Dobromir even started the relay with ... a safety pin (pic).

Checking the pump by connecting it directly to the battery gives an immediate answer to the question of whether the pump is to blame or something else. If, at the same time as the pump is connected "briefly", the motor starts and starts and runs smoothly, the electric pump is in full working order.

But it indicates the failure of some element in the electric circuit, such as the aforementioned double relay.

If, on the other hand, the engine refuses to start, it is reluctant to start, and after ignition, it goes out or runs unevenly despite the "short" connection of the pump, it means damage to the pump itself, or clogging of the fuel pre-filter under the pump (orange arrow in the previous photo).

Kisses KotBury2

andrzej20001 wrote:

This does not explain to me after a quarter of a century of work. Pumps are not changed without checking power.

Why are you writing about it at all, if you know you don't do that? To show off because you know better with a quarter of a century of work? Besides, I am not explaining it to you, but to the interested user.

Kisses KotBury2

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