Cordless screwdriver Parkside PHSSA 12 A1 - question about stroke

Hello,
I bought two sets of car battery screwdrivers for myself and my brother. In principle, the company is not important here, because the question is about the foundation of the action.

Despite the fact that the screwdrivers are new, one has play on the bearing, but it is clearly noticeable "beating", while the other has almost no slack, but barely feels "beating" in hand, as if the stroke had not. I compared it to "dry" and I think how it should be?

Can I sometimes not send this screwdriver with less "beating", or maybe it is normal, since there is no slack in the bearing?
And the other screwdriver, in spite of the considerable "whipping", quite clear clearance is acceptable?

PS.
I will add that I have an electric hammer drill (Einhell red) and there the "beating" is firmly felt even at low speed and generally works without any reservations.
However, I have some cheap electric key for wheels (gray Hamron from Juli) and there you do not feel at ease too much "beating" and unfortunately in operation is weak.

I'm sorry, but you bought it for the car, I think, just to carry it in the trunk. Already please, do not write that I bought it with the idea of unscrewing the wheel in the car. On the example of my Makita Impact (which I use in the construction), I say that there is no slack, it spins normally like a screwdriver and the impact is triggered automatically when it collides with the resistance. I bought a few years ago the electric impact wrench (noname some made by small hands but 740nM) and works perfectly. Unscrews even pins from aluminum rims without having to loosen them. It is certain that when turning gently and the torque wrench in hand. This impact wrench also pats only when resisted. Also attach the cap eg 13 mm and try to unscrew any nut. You will only feel the impact, i.e. its action at the resistance posed by the nut.

I realized from the beginning that this type of the cheapest keys do not have too much power, whatever they write there. Nevertheless, they are enough for me.
Generally I use an electric key sporadically, when there is a lot of loosening, for example at the wheels. First, I loose the bolt with a long extension, but later I do not want to spin, so I immediately remove the screw with an electric wrench. At the end of the dynamometric hand. It's just that this electrician is on the wire.

The new purchase will work just as a help with long screws, without fun with an extension cord.

I am talking about whether there should be looseness on the bearing and whether such rattle on idle at idle is ok.
From what you have written, it appears that the slack should not be and "beating" should only be felt by resistance.
I mean more about the universal principle, how it should be, because I have two new keys that behave differently.

I checked both pieces when unscrewing the wheel turned off at 110Nm two weeks earlier. The screwdrivers are supposed to be 350 Nm when unscrewing.
Overall, the 'better' unscrewed two screws from five, the rest did not let go.
The one with weaker beating did not unscrew the screw that unscrewed the other one, otherwise it blocked. In addition, this free play also got loose after this test.
When unscrewing, it was clearly felt stronger beat in one screwdriver, the one I was writing about, that has a stronger beating at ease.

So my conclusion is this:
- more pronounced beating at ease means better shock when loaded.
Bearing clearance is not important here, although I do not know if it is normal.

According to me, the purchase for an amateur is quite sufficient.
The batteries held power and I did not feel they had weakened anything.

You can close.