PARKSIDE PABS 12 A1 Drill - Can the Li-Ion battery with PARKSIDE X 12 VT fit

Will the 12 V, 2 Ah lithium-ion battery "PARKSIDE X 12 V TEAM" from Lidl's May 25, 2019 offer be compatible with the older "PARKSIDE PABS 12 A1" drill / driver instead of the original PAPK 12 A1 battery.
Knowing the policy of supermarkets, i.e. buy and throw away - buy a new one, it will probably not be possible, especially since there is a capacity difference, but if someone checked it or knew something, I would be grateful for the information. I liked this drill and would love to revive it.

Hello

the most important thing is the voltage to be the same, when it comes to capacity, the higher the better, 2Ah capacity means that this battery can draw 1A for two hours, 2A for half an hour, etc.

Moderated By Krzysztof Reszka:

3.1.11. Don't post messages that add nothing to the discussion. They are misleading, dangerous or do not solve the user's problem.

Thanks to arson18, but the fundamental issues are electrical outlets, sizes and electronics. That is why I am interested in possibly
experience from using this battery. in the specified drill
I do not really want to risk several dozen zlotys, but maybe there will be someone brave or someone who has both of these drills and will risk a spacer, assuming that it will fit at all.

If you have such indications on the battery, it will electronically match. Are these housings the same?
with the symbol inverted "T", the indications may be up to 14V

Buddy Tomekpkt, these batteries do not match, they have the same parameters and dimensions, but the current ones have 2 additional fins that do not allow them to be inserted into the older version

Buddy mikdar. There are gifted people who can cut those two mustaches and then the aku comes in any position.
This is my example. I saw in the lidl that they are selling separately, but I bought it. A surprise at home because the shape is the same and it does not fit. After correction with a knife, everything fit. I could only put new batteries in the charger as I wanted.
Now the charger, when connected to the socket, flashes red and green light faintly. Both batteries work with a screwdriver. And I just realized that the original battery is 10.8V 1.3A, the new battery is 12V 2A.
The charger has only two charging connectors, if I put the cut battery in the wrong position, could I destroy the charger?
Do you know what could have been damaged in the charger? I am able to desolder a broken element, but I don't really know how to find it. There are no spectacular burnouts on the record. How to diagnose the charger?

juzek6 wrote:

Buddy mikdar. There are so talented people who can cut these two mustaches and then the aku comes in any position.
This is my example.

Since you are such a talented person, firstly you should not look for advice on someone else's post, and secondly, you should not admit your mistake after editing it yourself.

Back to the topic.
The battery does not fit perfectly, but you can insert it without cutting the "mustache", it will just stick out a bit. I do not mind using it (tomorrow I can take a picture of what it looks like).
Apart from the construction, the poles also do not fit. I replaced that screwdriver + with - to adapt to the new battery. The old battery is completely dead.
There remains the question of the charger, which also does not match the poles and "whiskers" of the battery. I did not disassemble the charger, but gently cut its housing to fit a new battery. When charging, care is taken to insert the batteries so as not to damage it.
I did not cut the "whiskers" on purpose, also because, although they do not fit perfectly with the screwdriver, they hold the battery in the device so that it does not fall out easily.

This has been the case in Lidl for a long time so that the new model does not match the old one
according to the rule, throw away the old one and buy new ones
one more thing that confuses many people
battery voltage 10.8 and 12 V
the whip does not differ in any way, only the NOMINAL voltage of the battery was given first
currently MAXIMUM tension
and the idea came from that one smart invented that giving nap max unknowing people will buy it because 12 is always more than 10.8 V others will say that it is more "POWER"
that's why even BOSCH was forced to change the marketing policy and now there is, for example, GSR 12-2 Li and there was GSR 10.8-2 Li
similarly, Lidl has a 20V bat and this is the same as 18V from other manufacturers

Does anyone have any idea for repairing a Lidlow charger? maybe there is complete electronics or some alternative to get somewhere?

Marksrz wrote:

similarly, Lidl has a 20V bat and this is the same as 18V from other manufacturers

Can these 18V and 20V Lidlow batteries for power tools be used interchangeably as with chargers?

After all, they are the same aku.
Can be moved from the new housing to the old one.

Zbigniew 400 wrote:

After all, they are the same aku.
Can be moved from the new housing to the old one.

But I don't want to move the case. I mean, are the housings the same, the batteries match interchangeably?

Batteries with identical housing no

Zbigniew 400 wrote:

Batteries with identical housing no

Will I be able to "tune" them so that they fit interchangeably? 18V and 20V chargers have the same charging parameters?

Complete lack of knowledge. It's a lion. The rest is marketing gibberish.

I will dig it out because a lot of it is on the market.
The old PABS screwdriver akku is interchangeable within the type (PABS B2 and PABS B3), it is not interchangeable with the PBSA screwdriver akku (from a newer screwdriver, with a replaceable head), - colleague K4Mil described the sculpture, but it is troublesome (the fins do not fit, polarity, the shape of the red asshole with snaps is also a bit different).
Akku can be easily purchased in the Kompernass shipping shop, there are original chargers (all for PLN 75 + EUR 4 shipping). Replacing the 18650 with new ones is also not troublesome (the akku is folded with latches, you just have to watch out for the overload electronics, which is built into the battery).

I have a simplified repair of the above-mentioned charger behind me - as long as the impulse power supply module is functional. I cut off the original charge control and put in a Step-Down converter with current, voltage and LED controls: XL4015E1. It works in the same way as a dedicated charger (it draws high current to the vicinity of the set voltage, then gradually reduces the current around 0.1 V to the voltage limit. Adjustable voltage and current limit).

I explain the note:
Batteries PAP 12 are compatible with X12V Team devices, but not compatible with X12V Team chargers .
PAPK 12 (X12V Team) batteries are not compatible with older devices (before "X12V Team" era).

There is one reason. The batteries have two guides on the housing. Thanks to them, it is impossible to put the battery into the charger incorrectly. In X12V Team they have been slightly shifted.
I do not recommend cutting these guides, because without them it is possible to insert the battery into the charger with reverse polarity. No matter how you think, sooner or later you will make a mistake. Murphy's laws are inexorable.
Better to make an extra groove in the charger.


PS
Of course, there are even older batteries, but they do not fit any more because they have a completely different mounting (latches).

I will stick to the topic - so these "12V" batteries can be easily charged in old chargers, for example for PABSW 10.8 A1 / 45.113.39 / 11012 batteries?

I replaced the insert in my own, but the BMS is probably damaged, because it discharges one fire to zero and thus damages it. After connecting another BMS, the charger does not start, so I am looking for a replacement for the battery, because the screwdriver itself is in good condition.

From an electrical point of view, you can. I just don't know if it will fit in the socket of this charger.

I omit the socket - the issues of mechanical fit are a different topic, but it is relatively easy to get around both on the side of the charger and the screwdriver itself.

I just mean whether it is possible to charge this new battery with my charger, because if I have to add another charger, it is better to buy a whole new set.

Generally, someone can describe in a vague way how this charger "communicates" with the battery BMS? What needs to be on pin "T" to start loading?

He doesn't communicate. It just gives the power and measures the current. When it drops below some mA, it lights up a green diode as a sign that charging is complete.
This T connector is only charging. Note that the charger only has two tabs - connectors. + and T. Na T gives the minus of the power supply.

Added after 4 [minutes]:

Here you have the description: https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3673699.html#18561404

Not exactly. My charger has 3 pins filled.
I can't upload photos from this PC, so link to an example offer with such a charger below. I'll edit the post later.

https://www.akkuline.de/media/image/e9/13/a1/...-Stunden-Ladegeraet-4513640_17062_600x600.jpg

My screwdriver is PABSW 10.8 A1, and the charger is marked with no. catalog: 451364801801.

The fact is, during the repair of my battery, I did not try to put the mass on pin T, but in general my repair was unsuccessful, because the BMS has a short circuit somewhere and, to be honest, I don't want to verify it anymore.
I prefer to buy a new battery for the price of a 3-cell package.

Interestingly, in the Lidl store, the set with the charger is cheaper than the previously viewed battery in a popular auction site

Disassemble the battery and charger, you will know what and how.
This is the easiest way to find out.

radekrp90 wrote:

Interestingly, in the Lidl store, the set with the charger is cheaper than the previously viewed battery on the popular auction site

This is often the case.

I need to replace the PAP 12 battery. The battery goes to the PBSA 12 device

austin007 wrote:

Will you help?

In what?

I need to replace the PAP 12 A battery as above

But how can I still help you? After all, I will not try it on for you on the Internet, does it fit and does it cooperate ...?

If you fail, go to the manufacturer's website Parkside, you may buy the original for the screwdriver. Type in kompernass.com in the search box. Unfortunately, I do not have the right to insert a link.

I will go to the topic - something fell to me in the electronics of this battery. The entire battery accidentally fell into a bucket of water for a moment. I quickly took it out of the water, but the voltage is 11.4, the screwdriver does not spin, the charger does not respond - only the green LED is on and does not charge. Someone has the electronics diagram of this board.

Added after 11 [hours] 3 [minutes]:

Problem solved. Akku lay on the warm radiator for several hours and everything returned to normal.

PS - on A ... o ready-made 3S packages appeared, welded under the capacity of 2.1; 2.6 to choose from - only soldered (so that the electronics are operational).
There are no more PABSs on Kompernass, they are still newer.