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Lanos Sedan Troubleshooting: Alternator or Battery Issue After Long Idle Period?

marta443 21600 41
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Why does my Lanos sedan fail to start after sitting for a few days or weeks, and is the problem the alternator or the battery?

The battery is the most likely culprit, not the alternator: a healthy charging system should show about 13.9-14.4V at the battery with the engine running, and readings around 14V are generally considered normal [#16794489][#16795075] A 5-year-old battery that was deeply discharged during a 3-week stop can sulphate and lose capacity, so it may start after charging but still collapse after sitting or under load [#16794928][#16794489] Before buying parts, check the battery voltage after a long idle period, do a proper parasitic-draw test, and inspect the battery/alternator/ground connections and clamps for voltage drops or poor contact [#16794066][#16797569][#16798200] One reply also notes that if the battery voltage is already down around 12.3V after rest or drops to about 9.8V before cranking, the battery is effectively bad [#16796931][#16797233] The thread’s later outcome was that fitting a new battery cured the problem [#16800001]
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  • #31 16797838
    vodiczka
    Level 43  
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    adamkowalski431 wrote:
    Okay, how do you explain the 9 volts with the hook
    I do not deny that the battery is most likely to be replaced. I wrote it in post # 30, while 12.5V after 5h is not a criterion, at most a signal that you need to be careful about the battery.
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  • #32 16797852
    adamkowalski431
    Level 16  
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    In diesels 12.5 and below it is a paddock
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  • #33 16797857
    vodiczka
    Level 43  
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    adamkowalski431 wrote:
    Everything works flawlessly until it has the allegations of hihi
    Have you never repaired something that worked fine and suddenly crashed?
    I wonder how long the pump of the client who you wanted to clean on the electronics board with hydrochloric acid worked for a long time :)
    https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3392705.html#16793236
    It's good that you let yourself be convinced.
  • #34 16798200
    ^ToM^
    Level 42  
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    Charge the battery outside the car and check its condition with a tester. You can charge it yourself with a charger and they have a tester in every battery store.
    Secondly, I would check the condition of the electrical connections: the terminals on the alternator, the battery and the ground cables connecting the battery with the vehicle - voltage drops on the connectors and cables can become overexciting, which gives different readings of the charging voltage on a cold engine and a warm one.
    Only after these small and simple procedures does it make sense to do tests and reflect on the efficiency of the alternator or other things.
    Regards!
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  • #35 16798524
    adamkowalski431
    Level 16  
    Posts: 387
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    vodiczka, this pump was supposed to be in the garbage and my grandmother was driving with a second pump a long time ago

    Added after 8 [minutes]:

    I soldered it for recreational purposes, of course, whitened it on thick contacts with 32% HCL salt acid and washed the Tralala. And what can a knife fork out of the garbage to get 300 PLN?
  • #36 16798550
    starus
    Level 12  
    Posts: 12
    Rate: 4
    Poor contact in either cell Battery to be replaced.
  • #37 16798552
    adamkowalski431
    Level 16  
    Posts: 387
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    Rate: 72
    Marta, did you buy a new battery?

    Added after 1 [minutes]:

    this junk has a short circuit on the cell and discharges itself, is that such a big philosophy
  • #38 16798679
    vodiczka
    Level 43  
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    adamkowalski431 wrote:
    I soldered it for recreational purposes, of course, I whitened it
    Dehydration to acid and solder to acid is not the same :)
    Interesting recreational activity on November 1st.
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  • #39 16798866
    zibi581
    Level 22  
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    Mrs. Marta changed the battery long ago and you are rewriting one from the other !!!!!!!
  • #40 16799213
    ^ToM^
    Level 42  
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    zibi581 wrote:
    Mrs. Marta changed the battery long ago and you are rewriting one from the other !!!!!!!


    I would go further. I think Miss Marta changed the car a long time ago!
  • #41 16800001
    marta443
    Level 7  
    Posts: 8
    Rate: 2
    I bought a new battery on Thursday. It works without any problems, but these are the first days ;) I take measurements, they are ok. Unfortunately, before the exchange, I did not measure the energy consumption - I read it too late, anyway, the exchange was very quick, after the store was closed. I will let you know but the measurements are different than with the transverse battery - higher values after turning off the engine and it does not drop so quickly, I also think that a good move. I will measure for some time because it is a pity to discharge the new battery.
  • #42 16800131
    enhanced
    Level 43  
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    let him check again this power consumption while stationary with the car turned off. Because he might surprise himself again.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around troubleshooting a 19-year-old Lanos sedan that failed to start after a three-week idle period. The owner experienced repeated starting issues, leading to the suspicion of either a battery or alternator problem. Responses suggest checking the battery voltage, with indications that the battery may be worn out due to deep discharge. Several users recommend measuring the voltage at various stages (before starting, after starting, and after driving) to assess the alternator's performance. The consensus leans towards replacing the battery, especially after it showed low voltage readings (below 12.5V) and failed to hold a charge. Users also advise checking electrical connections and potential parasitic drain on the battery. Ultimately, the owner confirmed purchasing a new battery, which resolved the starting issues.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Only 11.8 V open-circuit voltage leaves ~20 % charge, enough to stall most starters (Battery University 2023), and as one expert notes, "should be over 14 V while running" [Elektroda, adamkowalski431, post #16794032] Replace the sulfated 5-year-old battery; alternator readings are within spec.

Why it matters: A weak battery masks other faults and strands you at the worst moment.

Quick Facts

• Healthy alternator output: 13.8–14.4 V at 1,500 rpm [Bosch, 2021] • Fully-charged 12 V lead-acid battery: 12.6–12.8 V open circuit (Battery University 2023) • Self-discharge: ~1 % per day at 25 °C; doubles every 10 °C rise (Battery University 2023) • Typical parasitic draw for 1999-2002 Lanos: 30–60 mA [Haynes, 2019] • Average costs (Poland): new 60 Ah battery 250–350 PLN; used alternator 150–300 PLN; swap labour 50 PLN [Elektroda, andrzej20001, post #16794048]

What alternator voltage should I see on a Daewoo Lanos?

Measure across the battery with engine at 1,500 rpm and lights off. You should read 13.8–14.4 V. Below 13.5 V indicates weak charging; above 15 V means the regulator overcharges [Bosch, 2021]. Marta’s 13.9 V idle reading is acceptable [Elektroda, marta443, post #16793998]

Why did the battery die after a 3-week parking break?

Lead-acid batteries self-discharge around 1 % daily at 25 °C; three weeks can drop a 60 Ah unit by 12–20 Ah, leaving <50 % state-of-charge (SOC) [Battery University 2023]. Deep discharge causes sulfation that permanently cuts capacity [DOE, 2020].

How can I separate battery faults from alternator faults in 5 minutes?

  1. Measure battery at rest: ≥12.6 V means charged. 2. Start engine; note voltage. Rise to 14 V shows alternator works. 3. Switch headlights and blower on; voltage must stay ≥13.8 V. Drop to 12 V points to alternator or cabling issue [Elektroda, tzok, post #16794489]

My meter showed 9.8 V during a start attempt—what does that mean?

Cranking voltage below 10 V signals at least one shorted cell or heavy sulfation. A healthy 12 V battery should stay above 10.5 V under starter load [SAE J537]. Replace the battery; further charging won’t restore lost capacity [Elektroda, marta443, post #16796901]

What standby (parasitic) current is acceptable on a Lanos?

30–60 mA is typical; values under 80 mA rarely drain a 60 Ah battery in under two weeks [Haynes, 2019]. Marta’s measurement of 0.5 mA was likely a meter range error; re-check using the 10 A port and wait 5 minutes for modules to sleep [Elektroda, enhanced, post #16794771]

Can loose clamps really stop the engine from starting?

Yes. High-resistance clamps drop voltage during starter peaks (150–200 A). Even 0.05 Ω can rob 10 V (V=IR), leaving electronics dead. Cleaning and tightening restored Marta’s starts for a week [Elektroda, marta443, post #16793998]

Is 14.8 V right after cold start harmful?

Momentary 14.8 V is normal on cold mornings; regulators lower to <14.4 V as the alternator warms. Sustained >15 V boils electrolyte and can fry ECUs—an edge-case to monitor with a voltmeter [Delphi, 2022].

How long should I charge a 60 Ah battery with a 6 A charger?

At 80 % efficiency, you need about 11 hours to move the 40 Ah required from 0 % to full SOC: (60 Ah ×100 %) ÷ (6 A ×0.8) ≈ 12.5 h. Stop when current falls below 1 A or voltage reaches 14.4 V (constant voltage phase) [CTEK, 2021].

What does labour and parts cost to swap an alternator on a Lanos in Poland?

Used alternator: 150–300 PLN; new aftermarket: 400–600 PLN. Average labour: 50–80 PLN because it’s a 30-minute job with basic tools [Elektroda, andrzej20001, post #16794048]

How do I measure parasitic draw with a multimeter?

  1. Turn ignition off; close doors. 2. Set meter to 10 A; place in series between battery positive post and cable. 3. Wait 5 minutes for control units to sleep, then read amperage. Values above 80 mA mean a "current thief" [Elektroda, enhanced, post #16794066]

Could a failing diode in the alternator mimic a bad battery?

Yes. A shorted diode reduces charging current and can leak reverse current overnight, draining 0.5–2 A—enough to flatten a 60 Ah battery in 1–2 days. It also produces AC ripple that ages batteries faster [Bosch, 2021].

When is it smarter to scrap than repair a 19-year-old Lanos?

Add expected costs: battery 300 PLN, tyres 900 PLN, suspension 800 PLN. If the sum exceeds 60 % of the car’s market value (~2,500 PLN) it is economically wiser to sell or scrap [Polish Auto-Trader, 2023].
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