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BMW 320 E46 - the central locking with the remote does not open the door

niewierny20 35589 11
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  • #1 16808843
    niewierny20
    Level 10  
    Posts: 28
    Rate: 11
    Hello
    There was a problem with opening the central lock with the remote control, I did measurements of currents because I was discharging the battery, which made it necessary to unfasten one with the battery clamp. After a few such measurements the pilot from the central lock stopped working, so I thought that it could decode, unfortunately the attempt to rewrite the code a few times did not give the central lock is efficient because it unlocks the inside of the key without any problem, not enough after re-downloading the keys for a moment. battery, the remote control normally works until the key is inserted into the ignition and the car is turned on, then as if the memory was canceling and the programming key is not going again or the pilot does not work, the rest without charge, any time I unhook the klem. What could be wrong with any of you having a similar problem ??? I will change that I have only one key, the rechargeable battery from the remote control is in working order, the relays from the comfort module rather have nothing to do, because the central works without any complaints and from the console and from the lock. So I do not know what else I can check?
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  • #2 16809064
    emeryt2
    Level 42  
    Posts: 7630
    Help: 717
    Rate: 2295
    Coding the remote control to the effect!
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  • #3 16809266
    niewierny20
    Level 10  
    Posts: 28
    Rate: 11
    And any more rational solution ??? because it's as if he wrote, I do not open the door with the lock insert and answer that I would hear the key spin until it works. Normally the key should be coded right away, but I've tried to do a great deal a dozen times and nothing.
  • #4 16811111
    emeryt2
    Level 42  
    Posts: 7630
    Help: 717
    Rate: 2295
    Well, there is a fundamental difference between the mechanical lock and the electronic lock. The first one has a normal switch - a switch, in the other a radio receiver and a remote control. Maybe you have any errors in the key coding algorithm? or an error in a complex electronic module? It would fit the diagnosis of this element. The original key? How I sclerosis is not mistaken there are two ways - types of coding. I do not remember the more sins.
  • #5 16811117
    sebap
    Level 41  
    Posts: 7139
    Help: 538
    Rate: 1076
    Stop disconnecting the cache and do some computer diagnostics.
  • #6 16811696
    niewierny20
    Level 10  
    Posts: 28
    Rate: 11
    I was yesterday I connected the car to the computer I had a lot of errors, but there was no time to check what is just deleted what we could, because a lot could have been caused by recent measurements and fuses, after erasing errors, I still do not work, nothing has stopped working after downloading the clamp. now only from the insert. The key is original, after that I tried to erase the errors a dozen times and program them without any effect. Any ideas ?? where is the code from the key in the radio receiver in the post or comfort module. Maybe this receiver has died ?? but no wonder, because before everything was working fine, only after the measurements something shot, maybe some short circuit I did: /
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  • #7 16811713
    sebap
    Level 41  
    Posts: 7139
    Help: 538
    Rate: 1076
    How do you code the key? Describe what you are doing.
    And finish with this tribe, because you will not get rid of mistakes.
  • #8 16812240
    niewierny20
    Level 10  
    Posts: 28
    Rate: 11
    I get in the car I turn the ignition switch to position 1 I wait about 5 seconds I pull the key and hold the button with the logo and press the door opening button three times, performs several attempts the same way I do the reverse holding the door opening button and I press the stamp with the logo, i.e., from closing the door. I have locked doors that are not locked, I do not touch anything at this time. not once coded it always went out. I also read that when you open the zipper from the insert, you must wait about 15 minutes and then you can try. miracles wreaths and nothing.
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  • #9 16812264
    sebap
    Level 41  
    Posts: 7139
    Help: 538
    Rate: 1076
    Ignition key in a maximum of 5 seconds. After pressing the opening button 3 times, of course, you release the closing button?
  • #10 16813404
    niewierny20
    Level 10  
    Posts: 28
    Rate: 11
    That's a maximum of 5 seconds, after I release the closing button and vice versa I did it without releasing the button, different ways :(
  • #11 16813413
    sebap
    Level 41  
    Posts: 7139
    Help: 538
    Rate: 1076
    I bet the pilot damage.
  • #12 16815585
    niewierny20
    Level 10  
    Posts: 28
    Rate: 11
    I will go to the key man next week and I will check my key and whether he will be able to code it

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a BMW 320 E46 experiencing issues with its central locking system, specifically the remote control not functioning to unlock the doors. The user has performed various tests, including measuring currents and attempting to reprogram the key, but the remote control intermittently works and fails after the ignition is turned on. Responses suggest potential issues with the key coding process, the electronic module, or the radio receiver. Recommendations include performing computer diagnostics, checking for errors, and ensuring correct key coding procedures. The user plans to consult a key specialist for further assistance.
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FAQ

TL;DR: BMW E46 key coding has a max 5‑second ignition window, and “Ignition key in a maximum of 5 seconds.” [Elektroda, sebap, post #16812264] Why it matters: This FAQ helps BMW 3‑Series E46 owners fix remotes that won’t unlock doors after battery work or failed coding.

Quick Facts

Why did my BMW E46 remote stop working after I disconnected the battery?

Battery pulls can reset modules and upset the remote’s learned state. In the thread, the remote worked after reconnecting power, then lost function once the ignition was switched on. That pattern points to coding not sticking or an electronic fault that surfaces after the first ignition cycle. Avoid more battery pulls and proceed with proper diagnostics before re-coding. This edge case often appears right after current measurements or fuse work, as described by the OP. [Elektroda, niewierny20, post #16808843]

How do I re-code a BMW E46 key fob correctly?

Use the short coding window. 1) Sit in the car; switch ignition to position 1, then off within 5 seconds. 2) Remove the key, hold one button, and press the other button three times. 3) Release and test. Ensure you release the held button after the three presses. Repeat only if needed. Sequence timing and button release order matter for the receiver to accept the rolling code. [Elektroda, sebap, post #16812264]

What exact button sequence did the OP try?

They turned the ignition to position 1, waited about 5 seconds, removed the key, held the BMW logo button, and pressed the open button three times. They also tried the reverse order (hold open, press the logo/close three times), with the car otherwise untouched and doors unlocked. It had worked before, but now fails to pair. This shows sequence alone isn’t always enough when a fault or timing issue exists. [Elektroda, niewierny20, post #16812240]

Do I need to release the button I’m holding during key coding?

Yes. After pressing the opening button three times, you must release the button you were holding. Holding it the entire time can prevent successful coding. Observing the press-and-release order is part of the accepted procedure for these remotes and was highlighted to correct the OP’s attempts. [Elektroda, sebap, post #16812264]

Should I keep disconnecting the battery to troubleshoot central locking?

No. Stop disconnecting the battery and run proper computer diagnostics instead. Repeated power cuts can create or mask faults and make troubleshooting harder. A scan saves time and prevents new error entries. As one expert advised: “do some computer diagnostics.” This is the fastest path to identifying module or key issues. [Elektroda, sebap, post #16811117]

What’s the difference between using the key in the door and using the remote?

The key in the door operates a mechanical switch that triggers locking. The remote relies on a radio receiver and an electronic comfort module to interpret signals. A mechanical lock can work while the electronic path fails, which explains why some cars unlock from the barrel but not from the fob. Different subsystems mean different failure modes. [Elektroda, emeryt2, post #16811111]

What if I follow the steps and the remote still won’t pair?

Suspect a faulty remote (“pilot”) if correct timing and sequence fail. The contributor’s assessment was concise: “I bet the pilot damage.” Before replacing modules, test or refurbish the key fob with a specialist. Hardware failure in the key can block pairing even when the car side is fine. [Elektroda, sebap, post #16813413]

Does clearing fault codes make the remote start working again?

No. Clearing codes alone did not restore remote operation in the case discussed. Errors were erased after earlier measurements and fuse work, yet the remote still failed. This indicates the root cause lies in coding/timing or a hardware fault, not just stored DTCs. Proceed with correct coding steps and hardware checks. [Elektroda, niewierny20, post #16811696]

Where might the problem be if both coding methods don’t work?

Look toward the key coding algorithm or a fault in the electronic module that processes the remote signal. An experienced member noted possible error in the coding approach or an issue within the electronic module, distinct from the mechanical lock. Diagnose that element before replacing parts. [Elektroda, emeryt2, post #16811111]

Is my key original, and who can verify or re-code it?

The OP confirmed an original key and planned to visit a key specialist for testing and coding. A qualified locksmith or “key man” can check the transmitter, battery health, and pairing. This service confirms whether the fob transmits and helps decide on repair or replacement. [Elektroda, niewierny20, post #16815585]

Why does the remote work right after reconnecting the battery but fail after turning the ignition?

That pattern shows the receiver accepts a temporary state after power-up, then rejects the key after the first ignition cycle. It points to coding not persisting or a component fault surfacing under normal run conditions. Re-code within the 5‑second window and test again. [Elektroda, niewierny20, post #16808843]

What single tip improves success when pairing an E46 key?

Control the timing. Perform the ignition on–off step within a maximum of 5 seconds, then use exactly three presses in the sequence. Many failed attempts come down to exceeding this tight window or not releasing the held button at the end. [Elektroda, sebap, post #16812264]
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