Radiator valve heads for Wi-Fi radiators, only one radiator is heated.

Hello. I live in the UK and the apartment in the living room and kitchen is hot winter because on this side I have the sun while in the bedrooms from the north cold all the time. As I turn on the boiler so that the bedrooms were warm it in the kitchen and living room is unbearable hot and vice versa.
I know that there are valve heads instead of thermostatic ones, working on wi-fi with adjustable temperature, normally closed if the temperature is above the set temperature. If a room drops below the temperature set on the head, the boiler switches on and only one radiator is heated in the apartment. Do you know this solution? Is someone using? Is it after the cables? It is quite an economical solution.

Ordinary thermostatic heads will solve your problem.

daro31ie wrote:

Ordinary thermostatic heads will solve your problem.

They do not do it. Thermostatic heads work the other way around. They are normally open and close to the temperature rise. Did my friend read my post and understand him?

Quote:

. They are normally open and close to the temperature rise.

And what about it? After all, if a colleague installs an ordinary thermostatic head in the living room and kitchen, with proper adjustment there will be no situation which the colleague describes (ie, unbearable heat) because he CLOSES. Digital valves have their advantages, but they do not differ in the basic idea of operation from the old ones with the expandable factor. And the advantages are mainly in so-called intelligent where, when detecting eg absence, the settings will be automatically reduced. In addition, you can often find wireless heads, but in the Z-Wave system, not on Wifi ... which does not mean that WiFi is not there.

tronics wrote:

ordinary thermostatic head in the living room and the kitchen, with the correct adjustment will not be the situation that the colleague describes

As a colleague imagines the correct regulation of the thermostatic head. Now yes. I have a boiler thermostat in the kitchen. Cooks dinner. I'm 24 degrees. In the bedroom I have 16. In the living room 18. Thermostat at 20. How do I make the installation to have 20 in the bedroom? Do you think that the thermostatic head can be adjusted so easily? I have all set to "3" or green. Only if the kitchen will be warmer it will not turn on me and the rest of the cold.

Quote:

I'm 24 degrees. In the bedroom I have 16. In the living room 18. Thermostat at 20. How do I make the installation to have 20 in the bedroom? Do you think that the thermostatic head can be adjusted so easily? I have all set to "3" or green. Only if the kitchen will be warmer it will not turn on me and the rest of the cold.

Has a colleague in the kitchen 24. The head in the kitchen closes and the flow of hot water goes to the other rooms. In them is lower temperature so they are less hydraulic resistance. Particularly the coolest room. So they heat up and the kitchen does not. That's how it works, I do not know why a colleague thinks it works differently. If, despite the setting of all rooms in 3, there are different temperatures, then under the HEAD there is an additional regulation which additionally has a CHOKE valve. From the boiler control, it is soon a room regulator than a thermostatic head.

But as in the kitchen I have 24, it will not be long for the boiler thermostat set to 20 because it cooks pasta. The colleague does not understand that the UK and the thermostat switching the boiler on is on the side of the boiler. I am asking for a conversation about my problem and my colleague thanks. I mean something like:
http://www.tanie-ogrzewanie.pl/danfoss-link-b...-danfoss-link-4-28degc-wifi-v4,,rid,1716.html
only after the cable because I have a renovation and I have the ability to position the cables.

The mistake is to regulate the temperature in the whole apartment by means of a boiler thermostat with a sensor placed in the kitchen, i.e. in the hottest room. Set this regulator to, for example, 25 ° C and regulate the room temperature with thermostats near the radiators.

goldi74 wrote:

The mistake is to regulate the temperature in the whole apartment by means of a boiler thermostat with a sensor placed in the kitchen, i.e. in the hottest room. Set this regulator to, for example, 25 ° C and regulate the room temperature with thermostats near the radiators.

I tried this solution this winter. A bit better but not quite well. Too much running around the rooms and shooting heads by a few millimeters. At home, the woman works, so I need something unattended, trouble-free and anti-man.

Quote:

The colleague does not understand that the UK and the thermostat switching the boiler on is on the side of the boiler

I understand everything, but my colleague does not understand how exactly the heating system works and what is the source of the problem. That's why I wrote about room regulators, because the WiFi head itself does not contribute much more than how it works!

tronics wrote:

I understand everything, but my colleague does not understand how exactly the heating system works and what is the source of the problem. That's why I wrote about room regulators, because the WiFi head itself does not contribute much more than how it works!

Heating of individual rooms is selective in both cases. However, thermostatic heads do not affect the boiler's switching on. For example, if the room where I have a boiler thermostat prevails all the time high temperature which is not the source of the boiler, I can head on the radiator closing and thermostat underline 40, but the boiler will not turn on anyway. Other cold rooms. But in the same situation as I have intelligent heads if anybody in the house indicates that the temperature has dropped in this room, it turns on the boiler, opens and the boiler works for this room, no matter the thermostat has not connected it.

Quote:

Heating of individual rooms is selective in both cases.

Only the room regulator usually has a relay output, and the WiFi thermostat does not.

Quote:

However, thermostatic heads do not affect the boiler's switching on

WiFi heads also, unless a friend buys the entire system from Danfoss, maybe ...

Quote:

But in the same situation as I have smart heads if anybody in the house indicates that the temperature has dropped in this room, it turns on the boiler

Now the question - how does a friend imagine this "switching on the boiler" by an intelligent head? Because I (with stubborn maniac and this is my last post, because I do not see the point of further discussion) I will say that simpler in this situation will be the use of a room regulator. But maybe more experienced in heating matters, colleagues will propose solutions better suited to a colleague's requirements. I am sending greeting and I wish you good luck.

I think that by using link # 7 you should purchase and configure Danfoss Link Starter Kit with WiFI V4
i.e. Control panel + three heater heads for start (or as many radiator heads as you have radiators) and a Danfoss Link radio transmitter for a pump or furnace.

tronics wrote:

Now the question - how does a friend imagine this "switching on the boiler" by an intelligent head?

I learned already. The heads are powered by batteries with the engine, communicating on the wi-fi with the control panel. All settings in the head for a given room. The central unit receives from individual heads what the boiler has to do and switches it on or off as a normal thermostat does by switching it on. Only that all heads hold valves normally closed and when the temperature drops in the room, the valve opens and the boiler starts, which heats only in this radiator. Dziw takes that no one has heard.
Added after 47 [second]:

tronics wrote:

with the persistence of maniac and this is my last post, because I do not see the point of further discussion

Do not argue because I asked for advice, not for discussion.
Added after 42 [seconds]:

tronics wrote:

I will argue that the use of a room regulator will be simpler in this situation

No. He will not fulfill his task and my expectations.
Added after 35 [seconds]:

tronics wrote:

I am sending greeting and I wish you good luck.

Thank you.
Added after 3 [minutes]:

L_M wrote:

I think that by using link # 7 you should purchase and configure Danfoss Link Starter Kit with WiFI V4
i.e. Control panel + three heater heads for start (or as many radiator heads as you have radiators) and a Danfoss Link radio transmitter for a pump or furnace.

Just. Or something similar but is there something like this in a wired solution? I am at the stage of a small renovation and I can lay the wires and certainly the equipment is cheaper.
Tronics colleague could get acquainted with this link as there are now solutions on the market.
Added after 23 [minutes]:
Such something 1 piece http://www.tanie-ogrzewanie.pl/danfoss-link-b...nfoss-link-do-pompy-lub-pieca,,rid,11757.html
Such something 1 piece http://www.tanie-ogrzewanie.pl/danfoss-link-b...-danfoss-link-wifi-v4-nascienny-z-zasilaczem- network ,,ryd,11437.html
Such thing pcs 5 http://www.tanie-ogrzewanie.pl/danfoss-link-b...-danfoss-link-4-28degc-wifi-v4,,rid,1716.html
Will it work? I think yes.
Do I need a room temperature sensor yet? Probably not.

If you can lay the cables then move the regulator from the stove to the bedroom where it is coldest and install the thermostats in the other rooms and then the stove will heat until everything is warm and the kitchen will switch off the heating when something is cooked.
I do not understand what your problem is, the room regulator puts where you want to heat the longest ...

I just mean it. I will install at least two thermostats in the coldest rooms and connect in parallel, which will start the boiler. It will be a bit of fun to set the thermostatic heads to start closing at a temperature of 20 degrees in the room, but this is to be done. This is the cheapest version. But to do.

No fun, usually the range is 1-5 and 20 degrees is around 2 )

There are capillary heads for example 1.5 m. This allows you to measure the temperature inside the room and use the sensor to close the head at the set temperature.
http://e-purmo.pl/glowice-termostatyczne/1298...ilara-2-m-m30-x-15-herz-design-h-1946098.html
https://www.ogrzewanie.sklep.pl/pl/p/Glowica-...lara-HEIMEIER-dlugosc-kapilary-5-metrow/12348
This can be a good solution together with the thermostat in the coldest room.

Personally, I use the simplest integrated ones and I do not notice any major problems with it. When the room is cold, the valve opens completely while when it reaches the set temperature there are oscillations that can be felt at the heater, I used to do an examination of it but it is not too noticeable in the room and the usual thermostatic valves give advice ...

barteksmrek wrote:

I just meant it too. I will install at least two thermostats in the coldest rooms and connect in parallel, which will start the boiler. It will be a bit fun to set the thermostatic head rests so that they start closing at 20 degrees in the room, but this is the way to go. This is the cheapest version. But there is room for improvement.

Some time has passed. How does a colleague solve the problem? I am curious about experiences.