Faac 740 Gate Drive: Power Issues, Slow Operation, and Wicket Option Activation Concerns

Hello
I installed the gate drive and, as in the title of the topic "Faac 740 gate drive, it behaves as if it had no strength", the motor sounds as if it was buzzing and the gate very slowly opens or closes.
It occurs under various circumstances (moments), sometimes in the middle of the cycle, at the end ... (force set to max - 50)
Currently, when launching from the remote control, it will open to 10cm and the strange behavior described above begins, I will add that by opening the gate option from the remote control everything is ok, it will open to the set width and close again.

The second problem is that I cannot activate the wicket option with an additional switch plugged into the connector 2 and 7 with the radio receiver connected to these connectors (see the drawing). Before adding the radio receiver, both wicket connector 2 and 7 and gate connector 1 and 7 were working.

I am asking for help, especially regarding the first topic.

ordec wrote:

The second problem is that I cannot activate the wicket option with an additional switch plugged into the connector 2 and 7 with the radio receiver connected to these connectors (see the drawing). Before adding the radio receiver, both wicket connector 2 and 7 and gate connector 1 and 7 were working.

The receiver has normally closed or normally open output contacts?

I suggest starting with replacing the capacitor, it affects the "power" of the actuator.

Receiver connected as follows:
NO - from 2
COM with 8 (not 7 as I wrote earlier, but 7 and 8 is "-". Tested with both 7 and 8)
There is still an NC contact but it is free.

As for the capacitor, it is (10uF) and it is a new drive, and as I wrote earlier, the gate starts normally, the entire gate is only 10 cm and slows down the engine.
If it was a capacitor, it seems to me that the gate would not open either and the same would happen as at the gate.

Write what kind of gate is it? What big-heavy old-new structure? Because you don't write anything about it.

Gate 4 meters clear + counterweight, filled with boards, weight certainly not more than 300-350 kg. He is 5 years old and now I added the drive and extended the counterweight and added the third trolley because the gate was sloping apart, the spacing of the trolleys was too small (this is how it looks like assembled by professionals). In my opinion, the manual opening is quite light.

Quote:

Before adding the radio receiver, both wicket connector 2 and 7 and gate connector 1 and 7 were working

Check "dry" (with a meter and after connecting to an external power supply) what is happening with the NO and NC contacts. The defect clearly points to the receiver.
Maybe the receiver is 12V and it's freaking out? (FAAC gives over 24V)

As for slow closing - one thing is on my mind - does your gate not have the rP parameter in the menu - i.e. deceleration before the limit switches (if it has and you have not set this parameter or exactly the t parameter, i.e. the exact time of the gate stroke + 2-5 seconds, they will be miracles) - if you have it, turn it off to hell (value 00) because it works uniquely and uncertainly, and only use the limit switch (rA).
Secondly, if you do not have an encoder (such an overlay on the motor), check that you do not have the EC parameter enabled or set - it should be either OFF or 00 (depending on the version of the control unit)

This gate should not weigh more than 150 kg (if you can easily lift one side and you are not a bodybuilder - it will be), so for this drive a feather - unless it is jammed on the wheelchairs - check.

Hello
As for the weight, I probably exaggerated with these 300 kilograms, it will be as you write. Rather, it does not jam on the wheelchair, it walks lightly. The devil is that I turn on the gate again and again and then the gate (from the same position of the gate, i.e. closed all the way) and the gate opens but the gate does not (10 cm and then it opens very slowly).
As for these rP and rA parameters, they are factory set to 00 and I think I left them that way, but the EC parameter (I don't have the encoder, I was thinking about the installation) is factory set to 99, i.e. active ("0-99" - active, "00 "- turned off) and here I am not 100% sure if I turned off, maybe I left the factory settings, tomorrow I will check it too dark today.

Regarding the radio, it is the RP2 868SLH radio, according to the manufacturer's data, the power supply is 20-30Vdc, so probably ok. As for checking with a meter with an external power supply of this receiver, it will be rather a problem (but I will try to figure it out somehow).
Thanks in advance so far.

Added after 14 [minutes]:

Me again.
And what will happen when I replaced the NO connectors with NC on the radio?

and the receiver will be connected as follows:
NC - with 2 and COM with 8 and the NO contact will remain free. Will that not be the problem?
I'll be checking tomorrow.

ordec wrote:

Me again.
And what will happen when I replaced the NO connectors with NC on the radio?

and the receiver will be connected as follows:
NC - z 2 and COM z 8 and NO contact pos

Then the additional opening button will not work, and the opening from the remote control will be delayed by a second or a few seconds.

Welcome back.
Regarding topic 2 - the NO connector was swapped with the NC on the radio, the gate now opens from an additional switch :D

Regarding topic 1, I have the following functions set:
Basic
- LO - AP
- PA - 45
- FO - 50
- dl - -3
- ST - 00 (gate closed during checking, i.e. ok)

Advanced
- because - y
- br - 05
- FS - no
- PF - no
- Ph - no
- SA - no (this function is not in the manual, I don't know what it is)
- SP - 00
- oP - no
- EC - 00
- rP - 10 (here I changed to 00)
- rA - 00
- AFTER - 03
- t - 30
- AS - no
- nc - 00
After this change to "rP" the gate went, I made a dozen or so moves and so far it's ok
I will continue to observe what will happen now.
I noticed one more problem with the flash (it is lit with a constant light both when opening and closing - it should flash here), a 230V lamp, and this "SA" function bothers me. What is it?

The lamp is powered by continuous 230 V and the flashing generates an interrupter located in the lamp. Either you used a lamp without a circuit breaker or it is fired.
I don't know about SA. Even the Italian version of the extended firmware manual does not have this function. Why don't you shoot the Faac switchboard out of curiosity?

welcome back
The lamp has a built-in switch (jumper) inside, after switching it it started flashing, so approx.
Thanks to everyone for your help.
I close the topic.