2mm Black Pipe for DIY Turbo Smoke Water Insert: Chimney Fi150 & Fi200, Durability & Cost

I have a question.
Is the 2mm black pipe suitable for making a water insert for the chimney? I would like to make turbo smoke myself, a pipe fi150 50cm and a second pipe fi200, water will flow between them. However, I do not know how with durability, because for less than PLN 150 I make myself such a turbody, which normally costs PLN 700 at the manufacturer but is made of 4mm boiler metal.
Anyone can advise?

Hello, my friend, it would be good to do something like this from acid-resistant steel.

Black will also last, but for sure much shorter than boiler or acid-resistant. How much, it is impossible to guess, but one season for sure.

what are these tubes (4 pcs) doing inside the chimney (the ones from the pasted photo)?

They take the heat from the exhaust gas directly onto themselves. There are gaps between them and you have to reckon with the fact that every year you have to take it off and scrub it thoroughly.

Tomasz Downacki wrote:

There are gaps between them and you have to reckon with the fact that every year you have to take it off and scrub it thoroughly.

This will not be cleanable.
In addition, it can become clogged so that the chimney will not be clogged.
I think it is not profitable.

Tomasz Downacki wrote:

However, I do not know how with endurance, because for less than PLN 150 I make myself such a turbody,

I understand that it will be non-pressure?

hello, buddy, this turbo smoke has a raison d'etre if it is a chimney from a stove in which it burns with pellets. best regards.

roman 18 wrote:

hello, buddy, this turbo smoke has a raison d'etre if it is a chimney from a stove in which it burns with pellets. best regards.

This is exactly what it will be like. I have been using a coil in the chimney for years and since then I even keep an eye on the type of wood I smoke. Near the ash and the rake, it almost does not overgrow, but once I took elm ... Of course, I always make sure that the combustion is carried out correctly, with a good supply of air. In the case of most charging boilers, it should be absolutely ensured that they are fired from the top.

These edging pipes are unnecessary, there will be more problems than good with them. The problem of fouling can be circumvented to some extent by inserting a heat recovery device in such a way that it can be bypassed with a damper during firing / sprinkling. This is easiest to get in a fireplace stove, but other sources are probably also adaptable.

what do your chimney sweeps say about it? For me, it's asking for trouble. You shouldn't use it very skillfully and know what to do - how @ gaz4

Cooling the exhaust gases can always cause unexpected problems. Even a chimney that is too cold is enough for any kind of coal or wood to be burned to immediately overgrow with soot. Recently a friend complained that after several years of using a fireplace with a water jacket, his chimney began to crumble. It's just that the exhaust gas was so cool that the water vapor began to condense in it. This is enough for a brick to crack in frost. If he used pepper-dry wood, maybe he would not have these problems, but who has enough space for 2-summer seasoning of 12-16 m3 (consumption 6-8 m3 per year)?

The best solution to many of these problems is the patent used in fireplace stoves. There is a damper that discharges exhaust fumes directly to the chimney when lighting up or tossing a new portion of wood. When it fires up properly, it directs the exhaust gases down to an additional circuit where you can easily install a heat capture device - the exhaust gases will be dry and clean enough to avoid most of the problems associated with their descent. The only thing you need to be careful about is maintaining a sufficient thrust, but the upper part of the chimney, which is heated during lighting, is responsible for it, if it does not cool down, the draft will be.

You can throw in a diagram or a device / model of such solution available on the market. How long does it take between adding new logs and opening the circuit with additional heat removal?

For the use of heat recovery from exhaust gases, a fireplace stove with vertical channels is the best, as in the second picture from the wiki:

https://pl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piecokominek

If the damper is mounted as shown in this drawing, it is set vertically during the ignition. Then the flue gas goes straight to the chimney, I wait for a stabilized flame to appear, which means clean combustion. Then the damper is positioned horizontally and the exhaust gases go downwards and then upwards through the storage mass to the chimney. And it is this section of the storage mass that is ideal for inserting devices for capturing heat from exhaust gases, as it does not interfere with the natural circulation in any way. Even heavily cooled exhaust gases have no option but to escape through the chimney, and when it is properly heated, it keeps a good chimney. Sometimes it is so good that when there is a lot of heat in the fireplace and a small portion is thrown, I do not move the damper. Correct combustion of wood with clean fumes occurs then after a few seconds, so the soot build-up will be imperceptible.