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Lagoon II - No Ignition/Start, Laguna II 1.9 dci 120km '03: Operating System Removed & Relay Issues

sadek1979 25488 15
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  • #1 16859978
    sadek1979
    Cars specialist
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    Patient Laguna II 1.9 dci 120 km year 2003. The car arrived on the tie. The cause of the fault is that the operating system has been removed from the operating engine in the box next to the battery. After removing it, the engine went out. Relay inserted and silence. After inserting the card, the display of the radio, radio and the immo LED lights up with continuous light. After removing the card, the above-mentioned things go out and the LED blinks as it should. Connected clip and communication only with UCH. The rest of the systems, of course, do not react. All fuses. The computer shows in the ears no plus after ignition. A reader replaced by a functional one did not help. After bridging the relay in the fuse box under the steering wheel the ignition has returned and there is communication but everywhere there is a fault in the multiplex network. In the pictures you can see the blocks and the bridged bridge. Maybe one of the colleagues had a similar fault and shared knowledge. Personally, I bet the fuse box under the steering wheel or ears. I will add that the steering lock is not active. The steering can be moved. Kartay are two including one nówka piece made two days ago and are 100% operational. Lagoon II - No Ignition/Start, Laguna II 1.9 dci 120km '03: Operating System Removed & Relay Issues Lagoon II - No Ignition/Start, Laguna II 1.9 dci 120km '03: Operating System Removed & Relay Issues Lagoon II - No Ignition/Start, Laguna II 1.9 dci 120km '03: Operating System Removed & Relay Issues Lagoon II - No Ignition/Start, Laguna II 1.9 dci 120km '03: Operating System Removed & Relay Issues
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  • #2 16860008
    Pawel wawa
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    The ignition lock is active because you have no communication with the ECU. Check the controller's power supply, that I will not mention the details of fuses. It's possible that you already have a fried driver. Have you checked what you are missing from controlling the system relay? If the plus, zapodaj exterior and communication will come back and the car should fire. Then look for the fault.
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  • #3 16860021
    sadek1979
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    I'm already writing Paul. As for the fuses checked. (under the hood, aku wheel, ear circle). As for the system relay it is power, and there is 1 permanent plus. The next pin is the gate (passage or how each one is called) and the next pin is control. After bridging the pins, it's still the same. No reaction.
  • #4 16860042
    Pawel wawa
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    With a light bulb you checked this plus constant on the relay coil? Diagram you have? A scatter of fuses and relays, too? See if after bridging, a plus appears on the fuel pump relay.
    See if you have a flasher after ignition on the ECU, the central cube M2 and M3 from this relay and an important plus is to be on the E3 of the same cube. The pins are described on the bone.
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  • #5 16860777
    sadek1979
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    I talked to the owner of the car today and said that things were done before. He went into the car, put in the card and the immo LED was still on, only the radio and the small display. So far, so they rode that when he put in the card and the darkness got out, he waited from one hour to several, rehearsing and firing as if nothing had happened. Now it has intensified and he decided to give me that egg. If you have any hints, I would like to listen. Greetings .
  • #6 16861441
    mar.wo
    Level 15  
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    Check the card's pocket, specifically the micro contacts.
  • #7 16861493
    T5
    Admin of Cars group
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    The engine controller has to get +15 after ignition, then it puts mass on the relay. You do not have 15.
  • #8 16861784
    sadek1979
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    You can tell me where I'm sleeping 15 .... Fuses all as I wrote. Reader replaced, fuse box too. No change . In my opinion, only uch or bolt. Maybe you have some suggestions on what you can check. Greetings .
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  • #9 16861789
    Pawel wawa
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    tomasz sadowski wrote:
    Can you tell me where I'm 15 ...

    Pawel wawa wrote:
    See if you have a flasher after ignition on the ECU, the central cube M2 and M3 from this relay and an important plus is to be on the E3 of the same cube. The pins are described on the bone.

    After all, you have exactly given, with ECU pin numbers included.
  • #10 16861980
    sadek1979
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    As usual, French wonders. I unhooked the ankles at the engine control unit to check what Paweł Wawa wrote. I found the right pins, I put together the whole with the wires marked. I connect the battery cache - it started to light. It's good . The car is working properly. I will make contacts by ecu and see how things are. At the moment the ignition works, the connection of the multiplex is starting. I do not know if it's ecu or something else. At the moment, he is testing and will see. I will inform you for posterity about the effects of success or failure. Thank you for your help . I am not closing the subject waiting for the development of events.
  • #11 16862047
    Frost160
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    Maybe the pins in which "legs" enter from the cubes / transmitters?
  • #12 16862299
    sadek1979
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    Today, the whole fuse box near the aku and the engine controller are going to be splattered. The car behaves as if the relay has stuck the contacts and after a time they let them out. Only question where ???
  • #13 16862510
    Frost160
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    Hmm, and maybe it was not washed with a pressure washer? Do similar stories?
  • #14 16862588
    Pawel wawa
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    tomasz sadowski wrote:
    I found the right pins I stuck to the pile
    And tzeba was a check that lacks power.
  • #15 16864929
    genek1000
    Level 35  
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    And what is the state of ET071 Dziewicza slides the column "YES" :?:
    Stan suggests that there is no code in the steering column blockade or something has fallen into the UCH that it claims so. :cry:
    In Doll II there were such cases that the system hung. :cry:
    Frequently, it was easy to disconnect the aku, and in the long-term to change the lock. I do not remember that we exchanged UCH for this reason :|
    The principle of switching the relay on after ignition is such that the reader sends the immo code from the cards to the UCH. UCH to lock, compare codes and return info about the correct code. The ignition relay is started after ignition. The engine ECU receives power and sends a query to the UCH. If the code is correct, the name is turned off. Proposal:
    To switch on the ignition is not needed engine ECU. :!:
    - If after inserting the card the ignition does not turn on and the immo indicator is on, there is a problem with the exchange of codes between the column lock and the UCH
    - If the control light immo blinks after inserting the card and the ignition does not turn on - there is a problem with comparing the codes between the card and the UCH
    - If, after inserting the card, the ignition is turned on and the immo indicator is on, there is no query to the UCH from the engine ECU page (the ECU fails to report).
    - If, after inserting the card, the ignition is turned on and the indicator light is flashing, there is a mismatch in the codes between the UCH and the ECU
    I think I have not made a mistake :D
    This is a collection of my observations from various repairs of the famous Laguna II model :D
    Perhaps my inventions will be useful to somebody :D
    It is possible to look at the battery condition or sometimes its voltage does not create any transients in the system :cry:
  • #16 16900642
    sadek1979
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    For descendants, I will write that another fuse box has been substituted and this has given a satisfactory result. After replacing the fuse box under the steering wheel everything works fine. Thank you for your help .

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a 2003 Renault Laguna II 1.9 dCi experiencing ignition issues after the operating system was removed. The user reports that after reinserting the card, the radio display and immobilizer LED activate, but the engine remains unresponsive. Various troubleshooting steps are suggested, including checking the power supply to the ECU, verifying relay functionality, and inspecting the fuse box. The user confirms that all fuses are intact and has replaced the reader and fuse box without success. Eventually, it is determined that replacing the fuse box under the steering wheel resolves the issue, restoring proper ignition and communication with the multiplex network.
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FAQ

TL;DR: In this thread, 1/1 Laguna II no-start cases were fixed by replacing the under‑steering‑wheel fuse box; “everything works fine” after the swap. [Elektroda, sadek1979, post #16900642] Why it matters: If your Laguna II won’t power the ignition, this FAQ shows what to test and the proven fix for this case.

Quick-Facts

Quick Facts

What causes “card in, IMMO LED solid, no ignition” on Laguna II?

A broken cabin fuse/relay box under the steering wheel caused this exact pattern in the thread. Replacing it restored ignition and starting. The owner confirmed full recovery after the swap. Treat the under‑dash fuse box as a prime suspect when UCH talks but other modules stay silent. “Everything works fine” post‑replacement. [Elektroda, sadek1979, post #16900642]

How does +15 (ignition-switched power) relate to the no-start here?

The ECU must receive +15 after ignition. Then it provides ground to energize the system relay. Without +15, you get no ECU wake and no start. As one expert summed up: “The engine controller has to get +15 after ignition.” Verify +15 at ECU pins before chasing multiplex faults. [Elektroda, T5, post #16861493]

Which symptoms point to the cabin fuse box being bad?

Look for solid IMMO LED with card inserted, radio/display staying on, and diagnostic communication only with UCH. Bridging a relay temporarily revives ignition, but multiplex faults remain. If these match, the under‑steering‑wheel fuse box is likely failing internally. Replacement resolved all symptoms in this case. [Elektroda, sadek1979, post #16859978]

Where is the fuse/relay box that fixed the issue?

It is the cabin fuse/relay box located under the steering wheel. In this thread, swapping that unit restored ignition, network communication, and starting. If you have identical symptoms, check and substitute this box with a known-good unit to confirm. [Elektroda, sadek1979, post #16900642]

What is UCH on a Renault?

UCH is Renault’s Body Control Module. It manages central locking, immobiliser logic with the card and steering lock, and enables the ignition relay. If UCH communicates but ECU does not, suspect power delivery to the ECU or the cabin fuse/relay box path. [Elektroda, genek1000, post #16864929]

How do I quickly test if the ECU is waking up?

Check for +15 at the ECU and whether the ECU then grounds the system relay. If +15 is missing, the ECU will not start communication. Confirm power at the relay sockets and ECU pins before replacing modules. [Elektroda, T5, post #16861493]

Why did bridging a relay bring ignition back only briefly?

Bridging can backfeed ignition circuits and wake networks, but it bypasses the real fault. In this case, multiplex errors persisted until the faulty cabin fuse/relay box was replaced. Use bridging only as a diagnostic aid, not a fix. [Elektroda, sadek1979, post #16859978]

Could the card reader or micro-contacts be the culprit?

Yes, worn card-pocket micro-contacts can block ignition authorisation. Inspect and clean the reader contacts if the IMMO LED behavior is inconsistent. However, here the final fix was the under‑dash fuse box, not the reader. [Elektroda, mar.wo, post #16861441]

What role does the steering column lock play in ignition enable?

The UCH exchanges codes with the steering lock. If validation succeeds, the ignition relay engages. If the IMMO stays on with no ignition, the UCH–lock exchange may be blocked by power path faults upstream. [Elektroda, genek1000, post #16864929]

Is ECU communication required to switch the ignition on?

No. As noted in the thread, “To switch on the ignition is not needed engine ECU.” Ignition enable happens via card, UCH, and steering lock. ECU queries follow. This helps isolate power versus immobiliser issues. [Elektroda, genek1000, post #16864929]

Can moisture cause intermittent relay or fuse-box failures?

Yes. Pressure-washing and moisture ingress can corrode relay contacts and boards, causing intermittent ignition loss. If symptoms worsen after washing, inspect the cabin fuse box and connectors for water traces and oxidation. [Elektroda, Frost160, post #16862510]

What’s a simple 3-step how-to to confirm the fault path?

  1. Verify +15 at ECU and system relay sockets with a test lamp.
  2. Substitute the under‑steering‑wheel fuse/relay box with a known-good unit.
  3. Recheck ignition, IMMO LED, and network communication. If all recover, replace the box. [Elektroda, sadek1979, post #16900642]

Why did unplugging and replugging ECU connectors make it start once?

Reseating connectors can temporarily restore contact on oxidised pins, simulating a fix. In this thread, the car started after ECU plugs were handled, but the lasting cure was replacing the cabin fuse box. Treat such starts as diagnostic clues only. [Elektroda, sadek1979, post #16861980]

What does “no plus after ignition” in diagnostics usually mean?

+15 is absent at the ECU or relay coil. The scan tool may show missing ignition power. Trace the feed from the cabin fuse box and confirm with a lamp, not just a meter. Restore +15 to re-enable ECU and starting. [Elektroda, Pawel wawa, post #16860042]

Edge case: IMMO LED blinks or stays on—what does that indicate?

Solid IMMO with no ignition suggests UCH↔steering lock code exchange failure or a power path fault. Blinking with ignition on suggests UCH↔ECU code mismatch. Use the LED state to choose tests before parts swapping. [Elektroda, genek1000, post #16864929]

What finally fixed the car in this thread, and is it repeatable?

Replacing the cabin fuse/relay box under the steering wheel restored ignition, network comms, and starting. That is the only confirmed fix here, giving a 100% success rate in this sample (1 of 1). [Elektroda, sadek1979, post #16900642]
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