Laptop Hard Drive Knocking: Potential Contact Issue with Plug or Frame

Hello
I have such a problem.
My sister's laptop came to me.
Such a story, sometimes it started normally, and sometimes it knocked and the computer did not get up. The symptom intensified until the whole thing died.
Obviously, the first diagnosis is an obvious garbage disk.
But I wanted to check if something can be recovered from it and I connected it to a desktop computer, it is normal.
After a few minutes, the parameters looked normal in the smart. Hd tune found nothing.
So I plugged the drive to the laptop - it works normally. I came to the conclusion that maybe there was a problem with the contacts in the plug (something came loose).
I mounted the drive in the frame and screwed it to the laptop - it knocks. K ....
removed from the frame - it works, to the frame - it knocks.
I don't know anymore - some breakthrough to ground? but on the disk or with the laptop at all?

Post the screen from CrystalDiskInfo.

Hello. And you do not have a skewed bezel and the disk enters the slot crookedly? Bends the disk?

frame like new

And the pocket has a protective film stuck to the electronics of the drive?

Yes. I also used the second frame - same
the only thing that changes the frame is it screws the mass of the disk to the mass of the laptop

In that case, "cold February" on the electronics of the disk, possibly on the SATA connector in the laptop.

This may be some kind of problem with the drive power supply in the laptop.

Despite everything, and SMART is uninteresting, but it may be the result of a malfunction in the laptop. Attributes 01, 03, 0B, C8 - mechanical problems of the drive. Throw a photo of what it looks like.

turczy wrote:

I mounted the drive in the frame and screwed it to the laptop - it knocks. K ....
removed from the frame - it works, to the frame - it knocks.
I don't know anymore - some breakthrough to ground? but on the disk or with the laptop at all?

I had the same thing in a very similar disk model: ST500LM012 knocks and does not take off

I also thought it was a short circuit, but it turned out that some laptop frames have high walls and press the PCB too tightly to the hermoblock. Apparently, these Samsung drives, or rather Seagate -> Link

But you get your doctorate
As mati221p wrote:
Attributes 01, 03, 0B, C8 - mechanical problems of the drive
the drive is over and that's it.

Buy a good SSD and it will be after the problem and also much faster.

artaa wrote:

But you get your doctorate
As mati221p wrote:
Attributes 01, 03, 0B, C8 - mechanical problems of the drive
the drive is over and that's it.

Buy a good SSD and it will be after the problem and also much faster.

Certainly not me.

The parameters, by the way, regarding the surface condition, but they have nothing to do with the fact that the disk does not want to work in a frame in a laptop and it works without a frame. Yesterday I spent half a day to figure out what it was all about. The first time I have encountered such a thing, the disk in the frame does not work and without the frame it works. In my post, I provided a link to my topic with such a problem and wrote a way around it.

Added after 5 [minutes]:

Interestingly, the author of the topic had an identical problem with the frame and a very similar disk model.

Added after 16 [minutes]:

The datarecovery company confirms that the drives of this Samsung / Seagate Spinpoint M8 series are very prone to failure of the heads, but they do not damage the surface on the plate:

Quote:

Failure Issues for the Seagate ST1000LM024 and Seagate ST1000LM025 Series

In any case, these 1TB hard drives often suffer from a read / write head failure. The heads may lock in place (an issue data recovery engineers refer to as stiction), often creating a telltale buzzing sound when the drive attempts to boot or access data. This doesn't necessarily result in substantial data loss, since the heads don't damage the platters where the data is stored.

Source: Seagate ST1000LM024 and ST1000LM025 Drives Appear to be Prone to Head Failures

Secure the data on this drive. Then insert it without a frame, mechanically securing it with even a piece of crumpled paper so that it does not slide out. The SMART parameters come from somewhere and finding the cause makes sense even if this disk is withdrawn from further use, so that the bobble does not repeat itself with the next one.

The best workaround for the problems will still be to buy an SSD.

artaa wrote:

The best workaround for the problems will still be to buy an SSD.

- by the way, you can add new problems. Why not just buy a whole laptop?

Price
and second: if the new laptop will be with HDD, it will collapse at its speed under WIndows10.

artaa wrote:

Price

- this is one of the reasons why we do not avoid looking for the causes of problems. The second, much more important reason is that the problems should not recur in the future.

And they won't happen again, SSD is smaller than HDD ....
that's why the set often includes thickening frames, which usually no one uses ...

Are you sure it's the frame's fault, not some power problem?

This is what it looks like from the description, if it works OK without a frame.
And there is no certainty in IT unless we think about the universal 99%.

That is why I suggested that the Author verify the behavior of the disk in a laptop without a frame.