Electric Instantaneous Water Heater for Central Heating: Anti-Freeze Solution for CO Circuit

I have about 2000 kWh. And I think a little differently. The additional heater on the return will not heat the water by itself. If you set the temperature on the stove to 35 degrees and the heating to 40 degrees, the stove will also run up to 35 degrees. The heater will not heat up the cool water in the circuit so quickly that the furnace reaches 35 degrees. After some time, when the water on the return will be warmer, then the heater will be able to (in the flow) heat up to these 35 degrees.
I don't know if I'm thinking right, but I think so.
Although I have air conditioners with heating option at home, it is not the most economical way of heating up.
Regards

Bodek428 wrote:

I just don't know what the practical difference is between these types. What does this clutch give me and do I need it?

If you do not have a clutch at the moment, it can be assumed that it is not needed.

Bodek428 wrote:

Although I have air conditioners with heating option at home, it is not the most economical way of heating up.

More economical than a heater.

rafbid wrote:

Bodek428 wrote:

Although I have air conditioners with heating option at home, it is not the most economical way of heating up.

More economical than a heater.

Will it really be better to heat up with air conditioners?

Bodek428 wrote:

Will it really be better to heat up with air conditioners?

Of course. Air conditioner = heat pump.

speedy9 wrote:

It's great that I found this topic, because I'm just thinking about installing a CO additional heater on the return from the installation. I am targeting the 2-3kW, single-phase version, because this is the only electricity I have with a gas CO furnace

install an ordinary heater + electronic thermostat and programmer and you have more than you buy and you will pay PLN 300 (plus installation

But where should I install this heater. After all, such an additional heater is a heater in a pipe through which water flows. It is difficult to simplify anything more.

speedy9 wrote:

But where should I install this heater. After all, such an additional heater is a heater in a pipe through which water flows. It is difficult to simplify anything more.

Probably a friend suggests to make the casing himself, you will need a 5/4 "tee with a 3/4" branch, 40 cm threaded on both sides 5/4 "pipe and a 5/4" choke by 3/4 ". The whole for about PLN 60.

How to put it together - in current post # 22.

jdubowski wrote:

All for about PLN 60.

In addition, a 3kW heater for +/- PLN 150, and since I do not have the right tools, I will have to thread the pipe for someone and take someone to install it. I will save maybe PLN 200 (the additional heater costs PLN 490).

speedy9 wrote:

I will have to thread the pipe for someone

My calculation took into account 40 cm of 5/4 "threaded on both sides - on Allegro for PLN 25 to buy.

Hello. And what do you think about such a heater - Kospel PPE3-18 / 21/24 kW
I think to connect it on the return to the gas furnace and use the excess electricity that it produces.

ddt_ wrote:

I do not want to write about the reasons, but only consider the problem.
While browsing the boiler manual, I came across the information that the control is factory set to the flow temperature. So I guess it should work fine if the stove doesn't set the return temperature to the feed only.

Can anyone confirm that the installation of an additional heater on the return is a better solution? In the furnace settings it is possible to choose the return or flow temperature control.
So installation in the return = control of the flow temperature, or installation in the flow = control of the return temperature ??

In addition, I am thinking of installing an additional thermostat, which will be more precise and faster in operation, which would turn the heater on and off - what do you think about this idea?

OK, installed on the return and testing. Another problem appears - how to control (turn off) the heater / heater when the house is already warm enough? Ie. I have the heater set to about 30 degrees (the thermostat is not very precise - hence my earlier idea of buying an electronic thermostat), but it is enough to make it too warm at the current temperatures, even at night.

I was also thinking about another solution - the heater is set to max, but it is turned on only when the boiler turns on the heating of the CO water - this would mean that the required temperature would be reached earlier and the boiler would turn off faster

dobrzyn22 wrote:

at the current temperatures it was too warm even at night.

Are you already heating your home?

dobrzyn22 wrote:

the heater is set to max, but it is turned on only when the boiler turns on the heating of the CH water - this would ensure that the required temperature would be reached earlier and the boiler would turn off faster

This seems to be the most sensible solution.

speedy9 wrote:

Are you already heating up at home?

Actually, for now, I turned on the boiler more for testing the heater, but in general, I usually turn it on around mid-September.

Added after 2 [minutes]:

speedy9 wrote:

This seems to be the most sensible solution.

just how to make it meaningful

I do not know if it is not the easiest way to take the signal from the circulation pump. The stove must turn it on when it heats up.

Well, the circulation pump runs much longer than the burner itself (otherwise the boiler would not know what the temperature in the circuit is)

dobrzyn22 wrote:

OK, installed on the return and testing. Another problem appears - how to control (turn off) the heater / heater when the house is warm enough? Ie. I have the heater set to about 30 degrees (the thermostat is not very precise - hence my earlier idea of buying an electronic thermostat), but it is enough to make it too warm at the current temperatures, even at night.

I was also thinking about another solution - the heater is set to max, but it is turned on only when the boiler turns on the heating of the CO water - this would mean that the required temperature would be reached earlier and the boiler would turn off faster

Hello
I have been struggling on the same topic for two weeks. If I set the heater to pos. 1 on the heater I have about 38C. If the boiler is set to a lower temperature, the pump in the furnace does not turn on. It is lame, because the heater heats up but there is no circulation.
If it was possible to connect to the burner control, the heater would heat at the same time as the burner. Connecting the control to the pump on warmer days could have such an effect that the burner would not turn on. It would be all the time on the heater. I could connect to the pump from the floor heating, which is controlled by a separate controller, but the effect will be the same.
I am still wondering whether not to use a temperature sensor on the supply that would control the heater.
The second idea is a current consumption sensor which, after exceeding a certain value, would turn on the heater.
Anyone else have any idea?

adam.ap wrote:

The second idea is a current consumption sensor which, after exceeding a certain value, would turn on the heater.

Which current consumption should I monitor?
I think that the only solution here will be to connect to the burner control as you mentioned.
Interesting topic overall, I didn't think about it when considering the installation of the heater last year.

adam.ap wrote:

Connecting the control to the pump on warmer days could have such an effect that the burner would not turn on. It would be all the time on the heater.

As I read about heaters, people wrote that such a 3kW heater can keep them at the right temperature at home to about 0 degrees outside. It depends, of course, on the house's insulation and the heating system itself.

speedy9 wrote:

I think that the only solution here will be to connect to the burner control

Well, but the burner also turns on for the needs of domestic hot water, you would need to know exactly which signal is responsible for turning on the burner and only for what

At that moment, I "forced" the circulation pump to work continuously on the stove, set the stove to 21.5 degrees for the day and 21 degrees for the night (then at home during the day it is 22-22.5 degrees). In addition, the heater is positioned in the middle, i.e. about 35-40 degrees, but I mounted an electronic thermostat to it, the detector of which I gave on the return (but in front of the heater). And on it I have the heater activation temperature set to about 25 degrees.

It works quite well at the current temperatures - but I am aware that it is not a good solution for winter. Then the required temperature on the supply will probably be around 35 degrees - of course, you can change the settings of an additional thermostat, but it's probably not about rummaging around in it every week ...

Added after 7 [minutes]:

adam.ap wrote:

If the boiler is set to a lower temperature, the pump in the furnace does not turn on. It is lame, because the heater heats up but there is no circulation.

If you cannot force the circulation pump to run permanently, then only the installation of a separate pump will help with this solution

After replacing the thermostat with an electronic Chinese, I was able to more or less synchronize the stove with the heater. The furnace is set at 46°C and has a 5°C hysteresis. On the heater controller I set 41°C on, 46°C off and I made a slight sensor correction. Now the heater turns on at 41°C and the stove burner starts at about the same time. At 46°C, it turns off the heater and the stove pulls up to 51°C and turns off.
If I raise the heater switch-off temperature to 50°C, it works perfectly in theory. But I do not know if it is good for the stove, because from 41°C to 51°C the water heats up not very quickly, but it cools down quickly. So the stove and the heater turn on very often.

Hello, how are the auxiliary heater tests? In my case, I want to install a 2 kW additional heater (max. What I can give) to a charging boiler on the supply, connect the additional heat supply before the pump and the warm outlet of the additional heater after the pump, goal - heat the boiler to 30 -40C with the additional heater and then turn on the pump so that the heat goes to the risers . Will it work?