Hello, for a 3-phase installation (5x2.5) I want to connect a plate, a dishwasher and an oven under 230V, I have already pulled two 230V sockets from two phases and now the question of connecting the plate appears. Can one blue wire play the role of N1 and N2 with the two-phase option? Two...

Firstly, the board is connected to 2F and N, if you connect it to 3, you will have to buy a new board. I would give up the dishwasher and connect it to another circuit (socket) because the 3F unused phase is usually used to power the oven.

No, because the third connection phase is free and not connected to anything inside (L3). This is to prevent the third phase conductor (unnecessary) from dangling freely in the connection housing. And so it is in most induction hobs from different manufacturers.

Typically, this 3 power cord can either be plugged or cut off in the same way some coffee machines have strength.

Provided we have a terminal block and not a connection cable. And after that I already repaired boards with cubes where a capable electrician could connect 3f

First, a separate induction circuit, separate for the oven and separate for the dishwasher. Secondly, in the first upper drawing from the left you have bridged N Thirdly, the connection of the above equipment is to be carried out by a person with a valid qualification certificate, otherwise you lose the warranty and you have it exactly written in the manual, which should be read carefully first and then act.

Hello, I am sorry to reheat the chop, but I would like you to confirm me in doing it well or discouraging me from smoking my record. In the apartment, cables come out of the can like the first photo in 5 colors. I want to connect my motherboard in two phases, i.e. where in the second picture, the first diagram is L1 and L2. Is my reasoning ok? junction box on the wall - connecting cube - plate socket no. yellow-green - yellow-green - GN / YE No. 6 blue - blue - BU No. 5 brown - brown - BN nr 2 gray - gray - GY nr 4 black - black - BK No. 3

Not knowing what is on each color (brown, gray, black) or how many phases we have, it's hard to tell here. I hope blue is neutral and yellow-green is protective.

The apartment is from a developer, the rules are rather preserved. How can you verify this?

Maybe you can show us a board with protections, maybe you can see your power supply from it. Maybe there will be a description on the security. Take sharp photos and post them here.

Bosch PIE631FB1E Board Connection for 3-phase Installation: Wire Role & Fuse Replacement

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#1 16934685 04 Jan 2018 08:30

witexus witexus

Level 11

» | Topic author

Post #1
16934685 04 Jan 2018 08:30

Hello, for a 3-phase installation (5x2.5) I want to connect a plate, a dishwasher and an oven under 230V, I have already pulled two 230V sockets from two phases and now the question of connecting the plate appears. Can one blue wire play the role of N1 and N2 with the two-phase option? Two cables from the board connected to it. Another question is whether with such a cable on the installation I can replace the fuses from 16A to 20A? After all, the load will not be constant. Can it connect the board normally to phases 1, 2, 3 and add 230V sockets to 2, 3?

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#2 16937150 05 Jan 2018 09:19

PtasiorWro PtasiorWro

Level 28

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Post #2
16937150 05 Jan 2018 09:19

Firstly, the board is connected to 2F and N, if you connect it to 3, you will have to buy a new board.
I would give up the dishwasher and connect it to another circuit (socket) because the 3F unused phase is usually used to power the oven.
#3 16938436 05 Jan 2018 19:33

Anonymous Anonymous

Level 1

» |

Post #3
16938436 05 Jan 2018 19:33

PtasiorWro wrote:
Firstly, the board is connected to 2F and N, if you connect it to 3, you will have to buy a new board.

No, because the third connection phase is free and not connected to anything inside (L3). This is to prevent the third phase conductor (unnecessary) from dangling freely in the connection housing.
And so it is in most induction hobs from different manufacturers.
#4 16941454 06 Jan 2018 21:51

tomplichta tomplichta

Level 12

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Post #4
16941454 06 Jan 2018 21:51

Typically, this 3 power cord can either be plugged or cut off in the same way some coffee machines have strength.
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#5 16944227 07 Jan 2018 22:15

PtasiorWro PtasiorWro

Level 28

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Post #5
16944227 07 Jan 2018 22:15

skryn wrote:

PtasiorWro wrote:
Firstly, the board is connected to 2F and N, if you connect it to 3, you will have to buy a new board.

No, because the third connection phase is free and not connected to anything inside (L3). This is to prevent the third phase conductor (unnecessary) from dangling freely in the connection housing.
And so it is in most induction hobs from different manufacturers.

Provided we have a terminal block and not a connection cable. And after that I already repaired boards with cubes where a capable electrician could connect 3f
#6 16944555 08 Jan 2018 00:39

Topolski Mirosław Topolski Mirosław

Moderator of Electrical engineering

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Post #6
16944555 08 Jan 2018 00:39

First, a separate induction circuit, separate for the oven and separate for the dishwasher.
Secondly, in the first upper drawing from the left you have bridged N
Thirdly, the connection of the above equipment is to be carried out by a person with a valid qualification certificate, otherwise you lose the warranty and you have it exactly written in the manual, which should be read carefully first and then act.
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#7 17762074 07 Feb 2019 21:59

Robert2207 Robert2207

Level 11

» | Helpful post? (+2)

Post #7
17762074 07 Feb 2019 21:59

Hello, I am sorry to reheat the chop, but I would like you to confirm me in doing it well or discouraging me from smoking my record. In the apartment, cables come out of the can like the first photo in 5 colors. I want to connect my motherboard in two phases, i.e. where in the second picture, the first diagram is L1 and L2.

Is my reasoning ok?
"junction box on the wall" - "connecting cube" - "plate socket no."
"yellow-green" - "yellow-green" - "GN / YE No. 6"
"blue" - "blue" - "BU No. 5"
"brown" - "brown" - "BN nr 2"
"gray" - "gray" - "GY nr 4"
black "-" black "-" BK No. 3 "
#8 17762162 07 Feb 2019 22:28

ta_tar ta_tar

Level 41

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Post #8
17762162 07 Feb 2019 22:28

Not knowing what is on each color (brown, gray, black) or how many phases we have, it's hard to tell here. I hope blue is neutral and yellow-green is protective.
#9 17762190 07 Feb 2019 22:39

Robert2207 Robert2207

Level 11

» | Helpful post? (+2)

Post #9
17762190 07 Feb 2019 22:39

The apartment is from a developer, the rules are rather preserved. How can you verify this?
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#10 17762217 07 Feb 2019 22:49

witexus witexus

Level 11

» | Topic author Helpful post? (+2)

Post #10
17762217 07 Feb 2019 22:49

It looks like this to me
#11 17762263 07 Feb 2019 23:08

ta_tar ta_tar

Level 41

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Post #11
17762263 07 Feb 2019 23:08

Robert2207 wrote:
How can you verify this?

Maybe you can show us a board with protections, maybe you can see your power supply from it. Maybe there will be a description on the security. Take sharp photos and post them here.
#12 17762309 07 Feb 2019 23:29

Topolski Mirosław Topolski Mirosław

Moderator of Electrical engineering

» | Helpful post? (+1)

Post #12
17762309 07 Feb 2019 23:29

Robert2207 wrote:
I want to connect my disc in two phases,

Before writing a post, you should carefully read the previous post, especially this:

Topolski Mirosław wrote:
the connection of the above equipment is to be handled by a person with a valid qualification certificate, otherwise you lose the warranty and you have it exactly written in the instructions, which should be read carefully first and then act.
#13 17762321 07 Feb 2019 23:34

ta_tar ta_tar

Level 41

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Post #13
17762321 07 Feb 2019 23:34

Topolski Mirosław wrote:
Before writing a post, you should carefully read the previous post, especially this:

And so it is if you do not pay attention that the topic is archival (over a year) and was not closed and the new author could add but .....
#14 17762341 07 Feb 2019 23:50

Topolski Mirosław Topolski Mirosław

Moderator of Electrical engineering

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Post #14
17762341 07 Feb 2019 23:50

ta_tar wrote:
And so it is if you do not pay attention that the topic is archival (over a year) and was not closed and the new author could add but .....

As I wrote, the author having a problem should read the subject carefully because there he has everything explained and the connection diagrams are clear and legible as well as who and why should connect the disc.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the connection of a Bosch PIE631FB1E induction cooktop in a 3-phase electrical installation. Users advise against using a single blue wire as both N1 and N2, emphasizing the need for separate circuits for the induction cooktop, oven, and dishwasher. It is noted that the third phase (L3) should not be left unconnected to avoid safety hazards. The importance of adhering to electrical codes and having qualified personnel perform the installation is highlighted, as improper connections can void warranties. Additionally, there are inquiries about the feasibility of replacing 16A fuses with 20A fuses, considering the load variability. Users suggest verifying the wiring colors and configurations to ensure proper connections.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Bosch PIE631FB1E typically runs on 2 phases + N ("the board is connected to 2F and N") — don’t wire it as 3‑phase. Use dedicated circuits and the factory links. [Elektroda, PtasiorWro, post #16937150]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps DIYers and installers avoid miswiring, nuisance trips, and warranty loss when connecting Bosch PIE631FB1E in multi-phase homes.

Quick Facts

Typical hookup: 2F+N+PE; the L3 terminal is present but not internally used on many hobs. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16938436]
Neutral often requires a factory bridge (N1–N2) at the terminal block; use the supplied link plates. [Elektroda, Topolski Mirosław, post #16944555]
Put hob, oven, and dishwasher on separate dedicated circuits to protect warranty and safety. [Elektroda, Topolski Mirosław, post #16944555]
Color IDs must be verified by testing: blue as neutral, yellow‑green as protective is expected but confirm first. [Elektroda, ta_tar, post #17762162]
5‑core supply shown in user photos (PE, N, and three phase conductors) for mapping to L1/L2/N. [Elektroda, Robert2207, post #17762074]

Can I connect the Bosch PIE631FB1E using all three phases (3F)?

No. This hob is intended for 2 phases plus neutral. The L3 terminal exists but is not internally connected on many units. Connecting it as true 3‑phase provides no benefit and invites errors. "The third connection phase is free and not connected to anything inside (L3)." Keep to 2F+N+PE as per the terminal diagram and supplied links. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16938436]

Can one blue neutral wire serve N1 and N2 on the terminal?

Yes. The neutral is typically bridged (N1–N2) using the manufacturer’s link plate. Do not DIY a makeshift jumper; use the supplied bridge and torque to spec. The thread confirms “in the first upper drawing from the left you have bridged N,” reflecting standard hob terminals. [Elektroda, Topolski Mirosław, post #16944555]

Is it OK to replace 16 A breakers with 20 A on a 5×2.5 mm² run?

Do not upsize breakers without a design check. The hob, oven, and dishwasher should each have dedicated circuits sized per documentation. Upsizing can void warranty and reduce safety margins. The thread stresses separate circuits and that a qualified person must perform the connection per the manual. [Elektroda, Topolski Mirosław, post #16944555]

How should I share phases between hob, oven, and dishwasher?

Give the hob its own dedicated circuit on 2F+N. Move the dishwasher to a different socket circuit and reserve the unused phase for the oven if needed. This reduces simultaneous load on any single phase and improves selectivity. [Elektroda, PtasiorWro, post #16937150]

What do L1, L2, L3, N1, and N2 on the hob terminal block mean?

L1 and L2 are the two live phases used by the hob. N1 and N2 are neutral posts, usually linked with a factory bridge. L3 exists on many blocks but is not used internally for this model class. Connect PE to the earth terminal. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16938436]

How do I verify each conductor before connecting the hob?

Open the distribution board and check labeling and protections. Take clear photos of breakers and descriptions, then confirm phase, neutral, and PE with proper testing equipment. If unsure, stop and engage a qualified electrician. The thread explicitly asks for board photos to confirm the supply layout. [Elektroda, ta_tar, post #17762263]

Are wire colors reliable? Is blue definitely neutral and yellow‑green PE?

Expect blue as neutral and yellow‑green as protective earth, but verify with measurement. Do not trust colors alone. A tester or professional verification is required before energizing. “I hope blue is neutral and yellow‑green is protective” highlights why verification matters. [Elektroda, ta_tar, post #17762162]

What happens if I wire the hob as 3F or cross phases and neutral?

You risk permanent damage. As one expert warned, connect it as 3F and "you will have to buy a new board." Miswiring can also trip breakers and void warranty. Keep to 2F+N+PE and follow the terminal diagram. [Elektroda, PtasiorWro, post #16937150]

How do I wire a 5‑core cable to a 2F+N hob terminal? (3‑step)

Identify PE (yellow‑green), N (blue), and select two phase conductors for L1 and L2.
Fit the factory bridge between N1 and N2; land blue on the bridged neutral.
Land two phase conductors on L1 and L2; cap or park the third phase safely if present. Use the markings shown in the referenced mapping. [Elektroda, Robert2207, post #17762074]

Can I add 230 V sockets to phases 2 and 3 from the hob feed?

Do not branch general sockets from the hob’s supply. The hob requires a dedicated circuit. Socket circuits must be separate and protected accordingly to maintain safety and warranty. Follow the manual and use a certified installer. [Elektroda, Topolski Mirosław, post #16944555]

Who must perform the final connection to keep my warranty valid?

A person with a valid qualification certificate must connect the hob. The thread states this clearly and notes it is written in the manual. Keep documentation of the installation for warranty claims. [Elektroda, Topolski Mirosław, post #16944555]

Is the L3 terminal internally connected on this Bosch hob class?

No. The L3 terminal is often present only to park a conductor. "The third connection phase is free and not connected to anything inside (L3)." Do not attempt to power the hob across three phases. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16938436]

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