How to open an underfloor heating valve (actuator) in an emergency.

Hello ,

in my underfloor heating - made by developer on Viessmann equipment - one heating loop does not work. The fact is that I haven`t looked into it and I`ve been living here for a few months and have never had such heating - that`s why the suspiciously cold area around the floor seemed to me like TTTM, or it`s just the way it is.
Yesterday I came back from vacation and a cold house and I can see exactly which loop is not working.
Regulation is via surface-mounted controllers and actuators on the power strip (distributor).
Maybe one of the actuators didn`t work well from the beginning?
I would like to open it manually but I don`t know and I have no one to ask?
EDIT: catalog number 7441022. I can`t find the user manual anywhere.

Maybe ask a question https://www.viessmann.pl/pl/kontakt.html

https://www.viessmann.pl/pl/uslugi/instrukcje-obslugi.html


http://www.viessmann.com/http-svc/web/poland/pdf-90.nsf/public

Hello,
These adjusters cannot be dismantled, the adjuster opens after applying 230v.
You can unscrew it from the valve (silver cap) and the valve will open completely if it is not jammed. Instead, you can use a thermostatic head from the radiator for the duration of the tests.

I`m currently working on a similar topic.
The head doesn`t matter much here. Either it is open or closed (or not working). Check the 220V power supply.
What is important is what is under it, i.e. the valve.
After removing the head, press the pin protruding from the valve a few times. It should be able to be pressed and return automatically.
In the pressed position, the valve is closed.
And that`s how the head works. It presses on the stem, closing the valve.
To sum up, after removing it, the valve on the distributor is in the NO position.

The valves may have the so-called preliminary adjustment.
Check if it is closed.
On the ring on the valve, if there is one, numbers from 0(N) upwards. Where zero or N closed.

Thanks for the answers !
I removed the adjuster heads, the valve stem moves up and down when I press it - it can be pushed in about 3 mm. For a few moments when it was open, i.e. not pressed, nothing changed. This "flow meter in the post" didn`t even move.

It turns out I`ll have to dig and dig the floor :/

In my opinion, after removing the head, the valve is open.
So probably the opposite of what you wrote.
It should operate on the NO-normally open principle.
Only after inserting the head, when it is powered, does the actuator begin to push out. This is quite a slow process. After pushing out the actuator with the head installed, the valve is closed.
This means that when the head is off, the valve is fully open.
I would try one more thing. First of all, remove the electromagnetic head. And leave it like that for longer.
Is the twig from that bad line cold?

Yes, this white pipe is cold - clearly colder than the others. This is the fourth from the left counting.
I`m pissed because I`m never very inquisitive and I trust people - I should check it 100 times and not explain to myself that this may probably be the case.
It`s like a carpenter who says that a drawer that is difficult to move will fail It won`t work out.

I understand that this system works based on a room thermostat.
It forces the opening and closing of individual branches.
That is, individual lines are e.g. for the kitchen, bathroom, room, etc.
And in each room you have a separate sensor that turns on the actuators.
I would support the fact that the branch we are talking about is contaminated with air.
So forging is a complete extreme.
I would try, at a favorable moment, to "force the system" to release liquid into only the room in question.
Unfortunately, you don`t have any additional cutoff.
So I would do this.
Remove the head from the faulty line. In this position, the valve should be open.
I would set the controllers to a low temperature in all rooms.
Lower than the actual temperature in the room. You will then force the heads to close. And that one problematic circuit will be opened. Then the pump should force air, if that is the problem, through the circuit. The air vents will catch what we don`t need and we hope it will run smoothly.

Check out this stupid thing again.
The temperature controllers you write about, those in rooms, are devices that operate either electronically (typical electronic Eurosters) or physically, i.e. bimetallic sensors. Each of them has a NO/COM/NC contact. See how it is connected in a working room and compare it with the non-working one.
There may be such a prosaic fault that the sensor works in reverse. When the temperature is low, it turns on the head, i.e. closes the valve, and when it is warm, it opens it. As a result, the valve is closed all the time. Because when it`s warm, they don`t heat up and the thermostat on the cabinet may not turn on.

I tried as you say - I have a total of 4 wall controllers. I noticed that the one that controls the loop that is not working also controls the other one that is working, so when the others are turned off it is like a "by-pass".
Oh well, I`ll call someone from the flooring specialist and I hope that maybe the valve just gave up.
Thank you for your involvement in solving my problem.

bobi70 wrote:

Remove the head from the faulty line. In this position, the valve should be open.
I would set the controllers to a low temperature in all rooms.
Lower than the actual temperature in the room. You will then force the heads to close. And that one problematic circuit will be opened. Then the pump should force air, if that is the problem, through the circuit. The air vents will catch what we don`t need and we hope it will run smoothly.

Do as written here. Just to make sure that the pump is not blocked, as all thermostats will not demand heating, leave one thermostat (from the room where the OP does not work) set to a higher temperature.

Since the tube behind the valve is cold, it is still possible that the valve head in the distributor is still closed, even though the pusher is up.
I would close the valves in front of the distributors and unscrew the valve of the faulty circuit.

misiek1111 wrote:

I would close the valves in front of the distributors and unscrew the valve of the faulty circuit.

Only the photo does not show any valves that cut off the entire manifold. Unless in the boiler room.

My friend. As I mentioned earlier, in the 1st post to you. I`m biting on a similar topic.
Slightly different, but the valve is analogous.
I`m afraid I may have misled you. So check how it is for you.
The valve is open when the actuator presses on it. At least that`s how it is for me.
I also suggest taking pliers, for example. Press the pin and quietly drink your beer in the company of the dispenser. During this time something should warm up a bit. Assuming the bus is unobstructed.

pitrel wrote:

Or maybe the loop is simply clogged with air and that`s why it doesn`t heat.

Even if this were the case, the supply pipe should be warm, but it is cold - i.e. there is zero flow.

pitrel wrote:

Try turning the flow meter

Well, the basic thing is, maybe the return valve is completely closed, hence the lack of flow. This needs to be checked first.

Compare the position and operation of the valve in the branch where everything is OK, then replace the actuator and connect it to a properly functioning one. you will exclude incorrect operation of the actuator and valve.

You need to press more vigorously with something metal after removing the head. It is not enough to press lightly. You have to press it hard and hard a dozen times.

The author of the topic froze. Our advice was to no avail.

Or it boiled when the underfloor heating started

I solved my problem and it is 100% identical on the valves in the distributors.
The thermostatic valve without a head is 100% open. If the valve has pre-orificating, the smaller the number, the lower the flow. Letter N - full flow.
However, "professional" installers made me aware that the valve opens when the actuator presses on it, which is clearly untrue for valves in manifolds and radiators. Although not impossible, as there are reverse-acting valves.

After several attempts at setting and fiddling with the controllers (replacement), pinning the valve head for a few days and leaving it alone for the following days - when it was cold, it is like that - the loop does not heat.
There was a guy from the developer who visited me and after a few visits - be careful - the loop started heating up.
Well, he took it and unscrewed it (counterclockwise) by about 3-4 full turns of the flow meter on this unlucky loop. And she started heating. I don`t know what`s going on with it, but it works. Although the flow meter poppet that indicates the flow is stationary, the loop is heating.
So it works and I`m happy, although I still have the impression that it started working by accident, because what is some adjustment by unscrewing the flow meter?
Thank you all for your help!

16 Jan 2018 22:56

pitrel wrote:

Try to turn the flow meter, in the photo it looks as if the fourth flow meter is screwed in the most

I turned it, but not enough, maybe I did half a turn - for fear that it would cause more leakage