Peugeot 206 1.4 8v 2001: Cold Engine Start Issues, Smoking, Fuel Pump - Possible Causes & Solutions

Hello.

I have a Peugeot 206 1.4 8v 2001 On a cold engine, you have to turn the starter a few times and it fires only three times. After a night of standing, sometimes it will surprise the first time, but after a few seconds it goes out and it is the same. As soon as the engine starts working for the third time, as soon as it is added to gas, it goes out. He must work a moment on idle. When it's warm, it fires easily. The mechanical plant said it was a fuel pump. But it's not enough that after turning the ignition you can hear how it works, after firing you can also hear that it feeds fuel. When I unhooked the fuel hose from the pump, it was under pressure. I wanted to replace it, but it was unlucky that I ordered a different kind and I have to send back. In total, I doubt that she is the reason for this state of affairs, because you probably would not hear how she works? If the car is warm it smokes right away. There is no LPG there.

When it's cold, connect it to your computer and see the engine temperature. Maybe the engine is about 5 degrees, and according to the computer will have 40.

I don't know if they didn't do it at the plant. Because when I arrived, the diagnosis was immediately that the engine temp sensor, and when I received the cart, they told me that the fuel pump and unprofitable repair cost, that it is better to turn and fire a few times Can you somehow diagnose the pump?

Check the pressure - there is no other option.

Well, I hope that this plant did it and maybe the pump is whacked. I was only surprised that her work could be heard normally. In that case, I think I'll try to replace it.

Well, unfortunately, the replacement of the fuel pump did not bring any effect.

Valve clearance ok?

This was not checked, but are these symptoms indicative of that? After 3 attempts it starts, comes 30 seconds and drives normally. When it fires up, the first moments are uneven and as if it were about to go out, as if it was getting too little fuel. How do you drive it right after firing up, is it cold or warm that there is no drop in power, jerking etc. And can a damaged fuel pump relay give such symptoms? Will he fall, will the pump not work and it's over? Someone mentioned the engine temperature sensor above. If the engine works at cold, it has a higher speed, that is, it probably reads the temperature of the engine well and works on "choke", when it warms up, the speed drops.

This is a normal old engine and the clearance should be adjusted every 20-30tkm. This is required service.

Can an inefficient alternator give such symptoms? I don't have such an old battery, and I already had to charge it twice. After firing, a strange howling / roaring / whistling noise is heard from under the bonnet, which increases with increasing revolutions and stops after some time. On the weekend maybe I can check with a meter whether it gives good voltage. By the way, what should be correct? I thought I would give the car to the factory, but I would have to leave it for 3 days, and unfortunately it falls off. It wasn't until the beginning of February that when I did nothing, I would put him to them and let them think.

Hello and I was able to determine what caused the fault?

Hi,

Unfortunately not. The problem will be solved at the beginning of next year, because I change the car Also, I will not explore it anymore, but if someone deals with something similar, I will gladly read out of curiosity what it is related to.

andrzej20001 wrote:

This is a normal old engine and the clearance should be adjusted every 20-30tkm. This is required service.

I just got back from the garage because it smokes worse and worse, sometimes it will surprise you 6 times. I checked valve clearances and suddenly + 0.05mm, also according to the service book in the norm. I also looked into the throttle, it's just a little oil, but without any large carbon deposits, it also falls off. If it fires up cold and, for example, it starts working the third time, then after adding gas it immediately suffocates and goes out. You have to leave it at idle for a while and then it's ok. Recently, when it was hot over 30 degrees, it fired from the first.

czarnyblack wrote:

I checked valve clearances and only + 0.05mm, also according to the service book in the norm

which ??????????????

It is to be:
exhaust - 0.4mm

intake - 0,2mm

???

http://prostyporadnik.blogspot.com/2015/07/regulacja-luzu-zaworowego-dla-tu3jp-14.html

czarnyblack wrote:

when I received the cart, they told me that the fuel pump and the unprofitable cost of repair, that it is better to turn and fire a few times Can you diagnose the pump somehow?

Yeah, unprofitable cost. Pressure measurement only.

andrzej20001 wrote:

czarnyblack wrote:

I checked valve clearances and only + 0.05mm, also according to the service book in the norm

which ??????????????

It is to be:
exhaust - 0.4mm

intake - 0,2mm

???

http://prostyporadnik.blogspot.com/2015/07/regulacja-luzu-zaworowego-dla-tu3jp-14.html

The tolerance is +/- 0.05mm and I have a plus of 0.05mm, that's what I meant.

Strumien swiadomosci swia wrote:

czarnyblack wrote:

when I received the cart, they told me that the fuel pump and the unprofitable cost of repair, that it is better to turn and fire a few times Can you diagnose the pump somehow?

Yeah, unprofitable cost. Pressure measurement only.

I just replaced the pump with a new one (used ), but it's exactly the same, nothing has changed. After all, as if the pump was falling, it would probably not only be during startup, but also during normal driving. I can hear the pump working a few seconds after turning the ignition. I ordered the coolant temperature sensor today. The cost is small, and apparently he can also give such symptoms.

czarnyblack wrote:

I can hear the pump working a few seconds after turning the ignition

ok and what pressure does it give?

I haven't made a pressure gauge yet, and I don't know if they checked the pressure in the plant. I have one pump removed. Without a pressure gauge, I probably can't check it in any way? If nothing gets better after replacing the sensor, maybe I will buy a pressure gauge and check the pressure.

Hello,
Has anything changed since then, did you manage to repair the car?

Hi,

I haven't been here for a long time and haven't seen your post. In fact, I got rid of this car, but I didn't check one thing: the crankshaft position sensor. Recently in another car it got damaged and it just didn't start at all, but apparently there are also signs that it starts not the first time. The sensor is cheap, and it's worth checking, also try.

Welcome,

I had exactly the same problem as here, a Peugeot 206 1.4 petrol wouldn't start the first time, you had to rev 3/4 times to get it to fire up. The mechanic checked everything, valve clearances, fuel pressure, fuel pump, coil, snails, throttles, compression, temperature sensors etc. Zero errors on the computer. It turned out that the shaft sensor was faulty, even though once it had fired up there was nothing to indicate it was faulty, no errors or any rough running. After replacing the sensor with a new one, the car started immediately. I hope that someone will find this knowledge useful .

Hi all, I'm here because I'm having the same problem, however, I've replaced the temperature sensor, the shaft position sensor as well, in addition, I've replaced the air cleaner hose, because it was scarred and the valve cover gasket, which was from new, but it didn't do anything. Still, when cold, it fires up in 4-6 times, I'm still wondering from less expensive things about the shaft position sensor, if there is one in this car

Valve clearances ok?

I haven't checked that, I've taken on the simplest things for now, but maybe I would actually look there

I would still fill the tank to full, I don't know why, but in my case it makes a difference that when there is half a tank it starts to have some firing problems.