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Peugeot 206 1.4 8v 2001: Cold Engine Start Issues, Smoking, Fuel Pump - Possible Causes & Solutions

czarnyblack 15072 24
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What can cause a Peugeot 206 1.4 8v to need several cold start attempts, stall when cold unless it idles for a while, and smoke when warm?

The repeated cold-start/stalling problem is most likely caused by a faulty coolant temperature sensor or crankshaft position sensor, and the fuel pump should only be blamed after a fuel-pressure test [#16962383][#17291528][#18500791] Check the ECU’s coolant temperature reading against the actual engine temperature when cold, because a bad sensor can report the wrong value and upset starting [#16962383] The fuel pump being audible is not proof it is healthy; the thread repeatedly says you need to measure pressure, and one replacement pump did not change the symptoms [#17291528][#17291754][#17272362] A later report on the same Peugeot 206 1.4 petrol says the issue was ultimately the crankshaft position sensor, even though there were no fault codes and the engine ran normally after starting [#21290602] Valve clearance was also suggested as a check on this engine, with one user citing intake 0.2 mm and exhaust 0.4 mm, but the thread’s strongest confirmed fix is the crankshaft sensor [#16972375][#17291483]
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  • #1 16962230
    czarnyblack
    Level 15  
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    Hello.

    I have a Peugeot 206 1.4 8v 2001 On a cold engine, you have to turn the starter a few times and it fires only three times. After a night of standing, sometimes it will surprise the first time, but after a few seconds it goes out and it is the same. As soon as the engine starts working for the third time, as soon as it is added to gas, it goes out. He must work a moment on idle. When it's warm, it fires easily. The mechanical plant said it was a fuel pump. But it's not enough that after turning the ignition you can hear how it works, after firing you can also hear that it feeds fuel. When I unhooked the fuel hose from the pump, it was under pressure. I wanted to replace it, but it was unlucky that I ordered a different kind and I have to send back. In total, I doubt that she is the reason for this state of affairs, because you probably would not hear how she works? If the car is warm it smokes right away. There is no LPG there.
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  • #2 16962383
    pepe150
    Level 36  
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    When it's cold, connect it to your computer and see the engine temperature. Maybe the engine is about 5 degrees, and according to the computer will have 40.
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  • #3 16962558
    czarnyblack
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    I don't know if they didn't do it at the plant. Because when I arrived, the diagnosis was immediately that the engine temp sensor, and when I received the cart, they told me that the fuel pump and unprofitable repair cost, that it is better to turn and fire a few times ;) Can you somehow diagnose the pump?
  • #4 16962686
    pepe150
    Level 36  
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    Check the pressure - there is no other option.
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  • #5 16962715
    czarnyblack
    Level 15  
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    Well, I hope that this plant did it and maybe the pump is whacked. I was only surprised that her work could be heard normally. In that case, I think I'll try to replace it.
  • #6 16972362
    czarnyblack
    Level 15  
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    Well, unfortunately, the replacement of the fuel pump did not bring any effect.
  • #7 16972375
    andrzej20001
    Level 43  
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    Valve clearance ok?
  • #8 16972767
    czarnyblack
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    This was not checked, but are these symptoms indicative of that? After 3 attempts it starts, comes 30 seconds and drives normally. When it fires up, the first moments are uneven and as if it were about to go out, as if it was getting too little fuel. How do you drive it right after firing up, is it cold or warm that there is no drop in power, jerking etc. And can a damaged fuel pump relay give such symptoms? Will he fall, will the pump not work and it's over? Someone mentioned the engine temperature sensor above. If the engine works at cold, it has a higher speed, that is, it probably reads the temperature of the engine well and works on "choke", when it warms up, the speed drops.
  • #9 16972775
    andrzej20001
    Level 43  
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    This is a normal old engine and the clearance should be adjusted every 20-30tkm. This is required service.
  • #10 16986513
    czarnyblack
    Level 15  
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    Can an inefficient alternator give such symptoms? I don't have such an old battery, and I already had to charge it twice. After firing, a strange howling / roaring / whistling noise is heard from under the bonnet, which increases with increasing revolutions and stops after some time. On the weekend maybe I can check with a meter whether it gives good voltage. By the way, what should be correct? I thought I would give the car to the factory, but I would have to leave it for 3 days, and unfortunately it falls off. It wasn't until the beginning of February that when I did nothing, I would put him to them and let them think.
  • #11 17114545
    gregkolumna1
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
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    Hello and I was able to determine what caused the fault?
  • #12 17135573
    czarnyblack
    Level 15  
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    Hi,

    Unfortunately not. The problem will be solved at the beginning of next year, because I change the car :) Also, I will not explore it anymore, but if someone deals with something similar, I will gladly read out of curiosity what it is related to.
  • #13 17290932
    czarnyblack
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    andrzej20001 wrote:
    This is a normal old engine and the clearance should be adjusted every 20-30tkm. This is required service.


    I just got back from the garage because it smokes worse and worse, sometimes it will surprise you 6 times. I checked valve clearances and suddenly + 0.05mm, also according to the service book in the norm. I also looked into the throttle, it's just a little oil, but without any large carbon deposits, it also falls off. If it fires up cold and, for example, it starts working the third time, then after adding gas it immediately suffocates and goes out. You have to leave it at idle for a while and then it's ok. Recently, when it was hot over 30 degrees, it fired from the first.
  • #15 17291528
    Strumien swiadomosci swia
    Level 43  
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    czarnyblack wrote:
    when I received the cart, they told me that the fuel pump and the unprofitable cost of repair, that it is better to turn and fire a few times Can you diagnose the pump somehow?

    Yeah, unprofitable cost. Pressure measurement only.
  • #16 17291703
    czarnyblack
    Level 15  
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    andrzej20001 wrote:
    czarnyblack wrote:
    I checked valve clearances and only + 0.05mm, also according to the service book in the norm
    which ??????????????

    It is to be:
    exhaust - 0.4mm

    intake - 0,2mm

    ???

    http://prostyporadnik.blogspot.com/2015/07/regulacja-luzu-zaworowego-dla-tu3jp-14.html


    The tolerance is +/- 0.05mm and I have a plus of 0.05mm, that's what I meant.


    Strumien swiadomosci swia wrote:
    czarnyblack wrote:
    when I received the cart, they told me that the fuel pump and the unprofitable cost of repair, that it is better to turn and fire a few times Can you diagnose the pump somehow?

    Yeah, unprofitable cost. Pressure measurement only.


    I just replaced the pump with a new one (used :) ), but it's exactly the same, nothing has changed. After all, as if the pump was falling, it would probably not only be during startup, but also during normal driving. I can hear the pump working a few seconds after turning the ignition. I ordered the coolant temperature sensor today. The cost is small, and apparently he can also give such symptoms.
  • #17 17291723
    andrzej20001
    Level 43  
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    czarnyblack wrote:
    I can hear the pump working a few seconds after turning the ignition

    ok and what pressure does it give?
  • #18 17291754
    czarnyblack
    Level 15  
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    I haven't made a pressure gauge yet, and I don't know if they checked the pressure in the plant. I have one pump removed. Without a pressure gauge, I probably can't check it in any way? If nothing gets better after replacing the sensor, maybe I will buy a pressure gauge and check the pressure.
  • #19 18028743
    moonwalker1977
    Level 11  
    Posts: 8
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    Hello,
    Has anything changed since then, did you manage to repair the car?
  • #20 18500791
    czarnyblack
    Level 15  
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    Hi,

    I haven't been here for a long time and haven't seen your post. In fact, I got rid of this car, but I didn't check one thing: the crankshaft position sensor. Recently in another car it got damaged and it just didn't start at all, but apparently there are also signs that it starts not the first time. The sensor is cheap, and it's worth checking, also try.
  • #21 21290602
    tomaszpanda123
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Rate: 1
    Welcome,

    I had exactly the same problem as here, a Peugeot 206 1.4 petrol wouldn't start the first time, you had to rev 3/4 times to get it to fire up. The mechanic checked everything, valve clearances, fuel pressure, fuel pump, coil, snails, throttles, compression, temperature sensors etc. Zero errors on the computer. It turned out that the shaft sensor was faulty, even though once it had fired up there was nothing to indicate it was faulty, no errors or any rough running. After replacing the sensor with a new one, the car started immediately. I hope that someone will find this knowledge useful ;) .
  • #22 21724705
    sebmaz97
    Level 9  
    Posts: 37
    Rate: 4
    Hi all, I'm here because I'm having the same problem, however, I've replaced the temperature sensor, the shaft position sensor as well, in addition, I've replaced the air cleaner hose, because it was scarred and the valve cover gasket, which was from new, but it didn't do anything. Still, when cold, it fires up in 4-6 times, I'm still wondering from less expensive things about the shaft position sensor, if there is one in this car :)
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  • #23 21724719
    andrzej20001
    Level 43  
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    Valve clearances ok?
  • #24 21724743
    sebmaz97
    Level 9  
    Posts: 37
    Rate: 4
    That's something I haven't checked, I've taken on the simplest things for now, but maybe I would actually look there
  • #25 21724865
    tomaszpanda123
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Rate: 1
    I would still fill the tank to full, I don't know why, but in my case it makes a difference that when there is half a tank it starts to have some firing problems.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around cold starting issues with a 2001 Peugeot 206 1.4 8v, where the engine requires multiple attempts to start and often stalls shortly after ignition. Users suggest checking the engine temperature sensor, fuel pump pressure, and valve clearances as potential causes. The fuel pump was replaced, but the problem persisted, leading to further investigation into the crankshaft position sensor and fuel pump relay. Symptoms include difficulty starting when cold, smoking when warm, and unusual noises from the engine. The owner plans to replace the coolant temperature sensor as a next step in troubleshooting.
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FAQ

TL;DR: On the Peugeot 206 1.4 8v, valve clearance service every 20–30 tkm reduces cold-start complaints; as one expert says, "This is required service." [Elektroda, andrzej20001, post #16972775] Why it matters: This FAQ helps 206 owners diagnose hard cold starts, stalling, and smoke without wasting money on unproven parts.

Quick Facts

Why does my Peugeot 206 1.4 8v need several attempts to start when cold?

Common culprits include incorrect valve clearances, weak fuel pressure at cold start, and a failing crankshaft position sensor. Owners report up to six attempts before it catches, then normal driving. Heat can mask marginal issues, so it may start first try on hot days. Begin with a pressure test and clearance check, then test or replace the crank sensor. Document symptoms and temperatures to guide diagnosis. [Elektroda, czarnyblack, post #17290932]

How do I check if the coolant temperature sensor is lying to the ECU?

Cold engine, key on. Connect a scan tool and compare the ECU’s reported coolant temperature to ambient. A large mismatch indicates a bad sensor or wiring. If the ECU believes the engine is warm, cold enrichment will be wrong and the engine can stall after firing. Replace the sensor only after confirming the reading error. “When it’s cold, connect it and see engine temperature.” [Elektroda, pepe150, post #16962383]

Is hearing the fuel pump prime proof that my fuel pressure is OK?

No. Pump noise does not confirm correct pressure or flow. A marginal pump or restriction can still buzz yet deliver low pressure during cranking. Verify with a gauge on the rail. Do not assume a healthy system based on sound alone. Perform the measurement before replacing parts. [Elektroda, pepe150, post #16962686]

What are the correct valve clearances for the TU3JP 1.4 8v?

Set intake to 0.20 mm and exhaust to 0.40 mm, measured cold. Incorrect clearances hurt compression and starting, especially when cold. Adjustments outside tolerance can cause rough idle and stalling right after start. Record values per cylinder to track wear trends over time. [Elektroda, andrzej20001, post #17291483]

How often should I adjust valve clearances on this engine?

Adjust every 20–30 thousand kilometers as routine service. Tight valves reduce compression and cold-start quality. “This is required service.” Plan the check alongside timing-belt or plug service to minimize downtime. Keep a service log to avoid drift beyond tolerance. [Elektroda, andrzej20001, post #16972775]

Can a crankshaft position sensor cause cold starts to take 3–4 tries with no fault codes?

Yes. Intermittent crank sensors can misread at low cranking RPM, causing delayed sync and multiple start attempts. Once running, the engine may behave normally and the ECU may log no errors. Replacing the sensor restored immediate starts for one owner. Quote: “Zero errors on the computer.” [Elektroda, tomaszpanda123, post #21290602]

My 206 starts then stalls when I touch the throttle—what’s that point to?

Reports show cold starts that catch, stumble, and die on throttle application. Causes include lean mixture from incorrect temperature input, low rail pressure, or air leaks. Let it idle briefly to stabilize, then recheck fueling and sensor inputs. Fix root causes before chasing throttle body deposits. [Elektroda, czarnyblack, post #17290932]

Do hot ambient temperatures improve starting on this engine?

Yes, heat can temporarily mask marginal compression, weak sensors, or borderline fuel pressure. One owner noted first-try starts when ambient exceeded 30°C, while cold mornings required several attempts. Treat this as a diagnostic clue, not a fix. Address the underlying issue. [Elektroda, czarnyblack, post #17290932]

Could charging or alternator issues mimic fuel or sensor faults?

Low battery voltage can slow cranking and worsen sync or fueling at start. If you need frequent charging and hear whining from the bay, test charging voltage and belt-driven components. Correct electrical faults before deeper diagnostics. [Elektroda, czarnyblack, post #16986513]

Does the ECU always show errors when cold-start issues occur?

No. Owners have seen multiple cold-start attempts with “Zero errors on the computer.” Intermittent crank signals or borderline mechanics may not trigger DTCs. Use live data, pressure testing, and mechanical checks, not codes alone. [Elektroda, tomaszpanda123, post #21290602]

Is filling the fuel tank to full a useful experiment?

One owner observed fewer mis-starts with a full tank compared to half. This suggests marginal pump pickup, internal leaks, or venting effects. It’s a low-cost A/B test that can guide further fuel-system checks. Record results across several mornings. [Elektroda, tomaszpanda123, post #21724865]

What’s a quick 3-step check for a misleading coolant temperature sensor?

  1. Cold engine: read ECU coolant temp and compare to outdoor temperature.
  2. Warm fully: recheck; reading should track actual conditions.
  3. If off by >10–15°C, inspect wiring and replace the sensor. [Elektroda, pepe150, post #16962383]

Is hearing the pump prime for a few seconds normal on key-on?

Yes. Owners report a brief prime after ignition on, which is normal. However, normal priming does not confirm pressure under cranking load. Always verify with a gauge if starting is difficult. [Elektroda, czarnyblack, post #16962230]

My car starts fine warm but needs 3 tries cold—should I suspect fuel first?

Start with a pressure test because sound can mislead. If pressure is in spec, check valve clearances and the crank sensor next. This sequence avoids parts darts and mirrors successful forum fixes. [Elektroda, pepe150, post #16962686]

After adjusting valves, starting is still poor—what next?

Document remaining symptoms: number of attempts, stall on throttle, ambient temperature. Then test rail pressure and scan coolant temperature at cold start. If both pass, replace the crankshaft position sensor. Many report success at this step. [Elektroda, tomaszpanda123, post #21290602]
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