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Skoda Octavia 2 TDI (2005, 2.0, BKD) - Starting Issues: Only Starts on Second Attempt, No Errors

arrrturek 12486 18
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Why does a 2005 Skoda Octavia 2 2.0 TDI BKD only start on the second ignition attempt after standing for a while, with no fault codes?

The problem was a faulty relay 458 in the engine compartment; replacing it fixed the intermittent no-start issue. Cleaning the relay contacts did not help and actually made the car stop starting altogether, but after fitting a new relay the engine started every time on the first try [#17052893]
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  • #1 17026173
    arrrturek
    Level 11  
    Posts: 92
    Rate: 67
    Hello, I have a Skoda Octavia 2 with a 2.0 tdi engine, BKD 2005 code. After a long stop, the car does not start the first time, but the second time, and it does not start. Regardless of whether I shoot it for a second or 10 seconds, the first time it will not light up, it will not even sound, and the second time it will burn by touch. The problem occurs sporadically. What do you think ? Ignition cube? After connecting the computer there are no errors.
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  • #2 17026338
    piotrekwoj1
    Level 43  
    Posts: 10340
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    arrrturek wrote:
    Ignition cube?
    If the ignition turns on and the starter is spinning, it's definitely not a cube. You have to look for what is missing, but if you say it is occasionally going to be hard.
  • #3 17029157
    arrrturek
    Level 11  
    Posts: 92
    Rate: 67
    The problem is getting worse every day so it starts. I've run out of ideas, I don't know what the reason could be
  • #4 17030981
    karol4444
    Level 12  
    Posts: 44
    Help: 1
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    Have you changed your battery over the years?
    Or else, has it ever been discharged to such a level that it could not start?
  • #5 17031228
    piotrekwoj1
    Level 43  
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    karol4444 wrote:
    Have you changed your battery over the years?
    Or else, has it ever been discharged to such a level that it could not start?

    And what does that have to do with the starter spinning?
    You need to check what is not getting voltage the first time, e.g. if the injectors are activated and if there is a spark.
    Check if it is enough to turn on the ignition twice or do you have to turn it off after the first?

    Moderated By robokop:

    Warning. 3.1.11. Don't post messages that add nothing to the discussion. They are misleading, dangerous or do not solve the user's problem.
    A colleague has already read on his own on the Internet, why the spark is not there and never has been.

  • #6 17031548
    karol4444
    Level 12  
    Posts: 44
    Help: 1
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    It is important because in case of frequent discharge and overload of the battery, it can damage the computer controlling the engine, incorrectly set the controller etc. = topic found in the vw group
    Moderated By robokop:

    Warning - 3.1.11. Don't post messages that add nothing to the discussion. They are misleading, dangerous or do not solve the user's problem.
    As above, please also read on - how this engine differs from others.

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  • #7 17031589
    piotrekwoj1
    Level 43  
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    Therefore, he must check what I wrote earlier.
  • #8 17031676
    misiekpb
    Level 22  
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    And there's no pump in the tank there? Maybe it doesn't get electricity the first time.
  • #9 17033378
    arrrturek
    Level 11  
    Posts: 92
    Rate: 67
    The pump is checked. Tomorrow I will see if there is electricity for the first time
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  • #10 17033763
    fructon
    Level 33  
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    I had such a symptom, the replacement of the camshaft sensor helped, the old one did not generate any errors, and yet the replacement helped, but in your case it is a good clue, I do not know.
  • #11 17033822
    arrrturek
    Level 11  
    Posts: 92
    Rate: 67
    Today I noticed that if I turn on the ignition a few times, it will start. I recently bought the car and the first week burned immediately, only after a week the problems started and the battery is Ok because it spins like crazy and I have never discharged to zero.
  • #12 17033948
    piotrekwoj1
    Level 43  
    Posts: 10340
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    arrrturek wrote:
    Today I noticed that if I turn on the ignition a few times, it will start. I recently bought the car and the first week burned immediately, only after a week the problems started and the battery is Ok because it spins like crazy and I have never discharged to zero.

    Now you need to locate where the power is missing.
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  • #13 17036463
    arrrturek
    Level 11  
    Posts: 92
    Rate: 67
    Colleagues, there were two errors in the engine controller, today I was on the computer. The first is: 17978 Electronic control module engine operation blocked - discontinuous. Second error: 16618 Boost Pressure Adjustment; the end of the control range has been reached.
  • #14 17036574
    piotrekwoj1
    Level 43  
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    Well, you know why it does not start.
  • #15 17036758
    arrrturek
    Level 11  
    Posts: 92
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    So what am I supposed to do with it now, buddy? What is this error related to?
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    #16 17036793
    piotrekwoj1
    Level 43  
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    The controller is blocked when the immobilizer does not work properly, i.e. it does not recognize the key, or there is damage somewhere (immo loop, key, ECU), there are various options. I don't think you can get it yourself. The computer is the basis for this vulnerability.
  • #17 17036922
    robokop
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
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    Nonsense, give this immobilizer a break. Somewhere the fuel is dropping either because of a leak or because the pump is worn out. After turning the key several times, the pump in the tank tops up enough fuel and that's it.
  • #18 17037021
    arrrturek
    Level 11  
    Posts: 92
    Rate: 67
    Just when he was checking for errors, there was no immo, there was no error, only in the engine. Replace this pump, there is no leakage anywhere, everything is dry. And the pump can be heard every time you turn the key.
  • #19 17052893
    arrrturek
    Level 11  
    Posts: 92
    Rate: 67
    Problem solved gentlemen. I replaced the pump in the tank but it did not solve the problem, the car continued to fire some time until I was looking at a forum and there was talk about relay 458 in the engine compartment and decided to look at it. I cleaned the contacts in it and the car stopped starting at all, I replaced it with a new one and the problem disappeared. It fires every time you "touch" it. I consider the topic closed. best regards
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a 2005 Skoda Octavia 2 TDI (2.0, BKD) experiencing intermittent starting issues, where the vehicle only starts on the second attempt without any error codes present. Initial suggestions included checking the battery, fuel pump, and ignition system. As the problem worsened, the owner discovered two error codes related to the engine control module and boost pressure adjustment. A key point raised was the potential immobilizer issue affecting the engine controller. Ultimately, the problem was resolved by replacing relay 458 in the engine compartment, which had faulty contacts, leading to consistent starting performance thereafter.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Octavia II 2.0 TDI BKD second-try starts were cured by replacing 1 relay (458); "the problem disappeared" and starts on touch. Fuel-pump swap alone didn't help. [Elektroda, arrrturek, post #17052893]

Why it matters: If your BKD starts only on the second try, this FAQ shows the exact fix and quick checks owners used.

Quick facts:

Quick Facts

What actually fixed the second-try start on this Octavia BKD?

Replacing relay 458 in the engine compartment fixed it. The in-tank pump was replaced earlier and did not help. After the relay swap, the car started immediately every time. The owner wrote it “fires every time you ‘touch’ it.” This points to a power-supply relay failure rather than fuel delivery hardware alone. Start by inspecting and replacing relay 458 if symptoms match. [Elektroda, arrrturek, post #17052893]

What were the exact symptoms before the fix?

After a long stop, the engine would not start on the first attempt. It would not light or fire even with a long crank. On the second attempt, it started by touch. The issue was sporadic at first and then worsened. This pattern suggests a power or priming problem that stabilizes after an initial key cycle. [Elektroda, arrrturek, post #17026173]

Why does turning the ignition on a few times help it start?

Fuel can drain back or pressure can drop between starts. Multiple key-on cycles let the in-tank pump re-prime the system. As one expert noted, “the pump in the tank tops up enough fuel.” If it starts after several primes, suspect supply or control of the pump. [Elektroda, robokop, post #17036922]

Is the ignition switch (‘cube’) the culprit here?

Unlikely if the dash powers and the starter spins strongly. As one reply put it, “If the ignition turns on and the starter is spinning, it’s definitely not a cube.” Focus diagnosis on fuel supply and control relays instead. [Elektroda, piotrekwoj1, post #17026338]

Which fault codes were logged, and what do they say?

Two fault codes appeared later in the thread: 17978, described as “Electronic control module engine operation blocked,” and 16618, “Boost Pressure Adjustment; the end of the control range has been reached.” These indicate an ECU block condition and a boost control limit event. [Elektroda, arrrturek, post #17036463]

Does replacing the in-tank fuel pump solve second-try starts?

Not in this case. The owner replaced the pump, but the issue persisted. The final resolution was replacing relay 458 in the engine bay. After that, starts were immediate and consistent. Use the pump as a check, but prioritize the relay if symptoms align. [Elektroda, arrrturek, post #17052893]

Where is relay 458 on this car?

In this case, relay 458 was in the engine compartment. The owner cleaned its contacts, which led to a no-start. Replacing the relay restored reliable starting. Inspect this relay if you experience similar second-attempt starts. [Elektroda, arrrturek, post #17052893]

Should I clean relay 458 contacts or just replace it?

Replace it. Cleaning the contacts made the car stop starting entirely in this case. After installing a new relay 458, the car started instantly. This edge case shows that contact cleaning can worsen an intermittent failure to a total no-start. [Elektroda, arrrturek, post #17052893]

Could the immobilizer be causing the no-start?

Yes, immobilizer faults can block the ECU and prevent starting. As one expert explained, “The controller is blocked when the immobilizer does not work properly.” If suspected, diagnose with a scan tool and check the key, immo loop, and ECU. [Elektroda, piotrekwoj1, post #17036793]

Were immobilizer faults shown during diagnosis here?

No immobilizer module errors were reported at the time of checking. Only the engine controller showed faults. This steered the repair away from immobilizer parts and toward power supply and relay checks. [Elektroda, arrrturek, post #17037021]

What should I test first when no errors appear?

Verify where power is missing during the first key-on. Use live data and a meter to check component activation. As one helper advised, “Now you need to locate where the power is missing.” Reproduce the symptom and re-scan immediately after the failed first start. [Elektroda, piotrekwoj1, post #17033948]

Does turning ignition on multiple times actually help a BKD start?

Yes. The owner confirmed that cycling the ignition a few times allowed the engine to start. This points toward fuel priming or relay-controlled power not establishing on the first cycle. Use this behavior as a diagnostic clue. [Elektroda, arrrturek, post #17033822]

How do I quickly check if the tank pump gets power on first key-on?

Try this three-step check:
  1. Turn key to ON and listen for pump prime near the tank.
  2. Backprobe the pump connector to verify voltage during the first prime.
  3. Compare first vs. second key-on. If power appears only later, suspect control/relay. [Elektroda, misiekpb, post #17031676]
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