NIVONA Caferomatica 830 Coffee Machine: Damaged Display Repair, AliExpress Replacement

Hello,
I just came across the forum and also have the problem with the barely legible display.
Can someone install a new white display for me on my original circuit board (for a fee) because I cannot do SMD or ribbon cable soldering.
I would be grateful for a nice offer via PM!
greeting
Ed

Hello, can anyone tell me where to get the elements for soldering on a new PCB?

I bought the basic components here

https://www.tme.eu/pl/details/sn74ahc1g00dbvr/bramki-inwertery/texas-instruments/
https://www.tme.eu/pl/details/cd4078bm/bramki-inwertery/texas-instruments/
https://www.tme.eu/pl/details/cd4071bm/bramki-inwertery/texas-instruments/

https://www.wekton.pl/dl4n-10/p,43645
https://www.wekton.pl/mbr0530t1g/p,79078

It's best to take TPS from the original plate, because I don't know if it's available in Poland.

At Farnell the TPS is available: https://uk.farnell.com/texas-instruments/tps6...br/lcd-boost-converter-dig-adj-son/dp/3006046

If there are delivery bottlenecks with the TPS6104, you can also use the TS1935BCX5 as an alternative. Can be exchanged 1: 1 without modification and costs EUR 0.75.

Welcome everyone,

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction, I have a few questions if you don't mind.

I believe I have all the necessary parts to repair my display. However, I do not know what components I need to mount on the J4rek V2 board (C1-3 and U1-3), could someone help me with that?

It's all described in the PDF file, together with the schematics ("SSD1305 NIVONA V2r1.pdf"):
C1 = C3 = 100nF/16V
C2 = 4u7/16V
U1 = SN74AHC1G00DBVR
U2 = CD4071BM
U3 = CD4078BM

Fiete325 it's nice that you found a replacement but this is SOT23-5, and most of the people who write on the forum or directly to me have a little idea about electronics. Maybe send a picture on the forum how to connect 1: 1 to the TPS61045 VSON soldering points (8) so that everything is clear
I have not met the TPS61045 damaged. The display was always damaged. I suggest not to combine but to use in my opinion the best solution currently proposed by J4rek https://www.elektroda.com/rtvforum/topic3435827-300.html#18635792

Hello,
First of all, thank you very much for the great work.
I assembled three of the boards from j4rek, the first one works perfectly and unfortunately I can't find the fault with the other two.
With the second I only get "snow" (see picture) and the third flashes briefly with the correct display and is then immediately dark again.
Maybe someone has an idea what that could be.
Thank you and best regards
Tom

It seems to me that such ailments mainly result from short circuits, under-soldering of some elements and, above all, incorrect soldering of the tps.
greetings

In particular, which version did you use, the entire board or the simplified version? Check carefully the pin connections between the boards on the 20-pin connector. Very often, when desoldering, the vias in the holes fall off and gaps appear between the soldering rings and the tracks. Later soldering only on one side, the tin does not connect the tracks on the other side of the PCB.
And check if you have a short circuit on the display tape. Did you mix up something while soldering? There is practically no philosophy in soldering the display. Well, unless you inserted the connector instead of soldering it in contact with the tape, look for problems in the connector itself. Many people have problems soldering a connector, e.g. 30 or 32 pin, and the tape hits the pins badly. In addition, the display soldering points themselves are not adapted to such a connector. The tape is too thin and it happens differently with this contact. Give photos from the electronics side.

In my Nivon, the display went out, so I brought OLED 1305 and made an adapter according to v2 J4rek. The first adapter installed in my coffee machine works perfectly with the new OLED - a big thank you to the forum team for this project.

I imported a second identical coffee machine from Germany from Ebay - according to the description that sells only display defect, so hopefully I made a second module and installed it.
How do I connect my first repaired working display to this machine bought from Germany - it displays, but the system shows an error in German: "Aufschäumer einsetzen" {???} - and I'm stuck here, but I have to disassemble it. I moved the coffee and milk outlet from my machine - this is not the source of the problem. The German woman swears that the coffee machine was working until the end, but only the display was dead.

I decided to repair the second display, from this machine bought in Germany, to start the repair somewhere - and here it is a failure. After replacing the OLED display, soldering and installing - nothing lights up - the display is dead as at the beginning, as if it was not getting power.

Is there a way to test the power line to be able to take some measurements, or where does the power line begin to find something on the break - now it's as if the display is not getting power or the motherboard is dead. What is the supply voltage for this module?

Hello,
the way I understand it, you have a repaired display that works.
If you install this display in the German machine, the machine starts up and the error message "Set the frother" appears.
This error message appears when the lower cap (frother)
is dismantled. There is a magnet in the cap to switch the error message.
If the machine works with the repaired display, the machine is ok.
greeting

As reported by Rosenkopf. Attach the front lower panel. If that does not help, check the sensor connection. All the displays I had were from Germany. If there were errors after assembly, it was always the fault of a bad solder. Use flux and don't overdo it with tin. Check everything you soldered, especially if you didn't tear the through holes on the 20-pin connector, as I wrote earlier. Do the paths on the bottom side of the PCB from which you soldered the connector definitely have a connection with the connector pins.

I would like to thank the user of Rosenkopf and Amigos - thanks to you today I regained my humor. In fact, the whole secret of this mystery of mine was only that the front cover of the frother actually has a magnet, and if you do not put on the plastic front panel with the magnet embedded in it, the coffee machine will not start. Thank you very much.

For now, I have dismantled the inoperative display module into the first parts. I would like the ATMEGA324PA chip not to be damaged, because you can buy it, but I am afraid that it is a programmable chip and without getting a batch, the module may turn out to be beyond repair. This motherboard also has a 3.3V stabilizer and one transistor.
So I will check all the tracks, then the guides - and we'll see if this module moves.

My advice is also this - if you buy some parts for repair, you should buy a comb of this height (although it would be more convenient) with pins. It seems to be a much easier job of cutting the original pins and desoldering them one at a time than all of them - there is less chance of damaging tight solder pads and the thin tracks going to them.

amigos wrote:

Which version did you use, the full board or the simplified version? [...] Please show photos from the side of the components.

Hello.
The display is ending for me too. Does anyone on the forum repair? If so, please contact me at migoo(_at_)o2.pl
greetings

tom_boy80 wrote:

amigos wrote:

which version did you use, the whole tile or this simplified version? [...] Give photos from the electronics side.

I see you've put the pcb on ebay - so I understand you're done What was wrong? What was the problem?

Unfortunately, the second attempt - I did not manage to start the module with the adapter - I dismantled and reassembled it very carefully - dead.

So I would like to assemble such a full control module for OLED according to the J4rek rev.2 project.

I would just like to clarify the issue of the elements - please check if I wrote it down correctly from the diagram:

NIVONA MODULE J4rek for 1305 display - version: full PCB, as in the attachment:
SMD BOM LIST:

L1 - 10uH SMD wire choke 10uH 0.4A 560mR 4.5x3.2mm H = 1.5mm

D1 - MBR0530 Shotki diode 30V 0.5A

C1 - 4u7 / 16V
C6 - 4u7 / 16V
C7 - 4u7 / 16V
C8 - 4u7 / 16V
C10 - 4u7 / 16V
C11 - 4u7 / 16V

C2 - 100nF / 16V
C3 - 100nF / 16V
C4 - 100nF / 16V
C9 - 100nF / 16V

C5 - 22pF

R1 - 1M
R2 - 1M
R3 - 120K


U1 - SN74AHC1G00DBVR
U2 - CD4071B
U3 - CD4078B

TPS61045 TPS61045DRBR QFN-8 Chipset IC REG BOOST ADJ 0.3A, LED driver, 1 output, boost (step up), 1.8V-6V input, 1MHz switching, 28V / 20mA output
--------------------------------

I just started my adventure with SMD .

1.
I have a very lame question about the size of the SMD components needed for this PCB - elements should be 0603 or 0805 size ? The size 1206 capacitors I bought turned out to be a bit too big and not very convenient to solder in the fields.

I left the integrated circuits and OLED display from the experiment with a small adapter, I miss C5 - 22pF, R1 - 1M, R2 - 1M, R3 - 120K, I will sell the rest.

2.
The last question - does anyone have one or two bare laminates of the full PCB J4rek rev. 2 and can help me and resell at cost, possibly with these missing SMD C5, R1, R2, R3 components? Or maybe a damaged NIVONA display module with a working motherboard for little money, so that it does not lie in a drawer and help me revive my Nivona?

The R, C elements are in size 0805. The full designation for U2 and U3 is CD4071BM
and CD4078BM.

amigos wrote:

I see you set the boards on ebay - so I understand you are done What was wrong? What was the problem?

Didn't look any further for the error and reordered U1, U2, U3, TPS and replaced them. I re-soldered the other components with flux, probably a component (U1-U3) got too much heat during soldering.

Thanks again for your help and the great project.

Good Morning

I've read through a lot now, first of all thank you very much for the trouble some people make here.
Often everything is not summarized but what is to be done is always given in fractions.

I have the same problem with the dark display.
Is my approach so correct:

1) Remove the display unit from the defective Nivona and unsolder the display from the circuit board
2) Go to this page jlcpcb.com and insert the Gerber file from user "j4rek" NIVONA SSD1305 ADAPTER "(V1r2) .ZIP for example and order the board. (8 EUR)
3) The display opens
aliexpress ---> order SSD1305Z. (20 EUR
4) Order the components on the Internet:
C1 = C3 = 100 nF / 16 V
C2 = 4u7 / 16V
U1 = SN74AHC1G00DBVR
U2 = CD4071BM
U3 = CD4078BM
(15 EUR
5) When the small circuit board has arrived, you have to solder the components from 4) on it.
6) TPS? Where is the TPS on the old board? You have to solder it out and put it on the new little board, right?
7) Now you have to solder the new display + the small circuit board with components to the control unit
8) Assemble everything and start the device

Now the text in the display has to show like the original display, right?
Have I forgotten any components?
Or do I have to do something else?
Thank you for the great help
All in all, everything costs almost EUR 50, so it's a lot of money if you make a mistake and have to throw the board away, so I don't want to go wrong.

Hello,

4) - parts list (type 0805 / 16V or more):
C1, C6-C8, C10, C11 = 4.7uF
C2-C4, C9 = 100nF
C5 = 22pF
R1, R2 = 1M
R3 = 120k
R4 = DNP
D1 MBR0530 (old display)
L1 10uH (old display)
U1 SN74AHC1G00DBVR
U2 CD4071BM
U3 CD4078BM
U4 TPS61045 (old display)

6) - The TPS is an approx. 4x4 mm small component
Be careful when soldering so that there is no short circuit on the underside of the PINs.

7) - If the new display were not to be soldered, but rather a 20-pin socket strip would be soldered on and the PINs on the old display would be cut off - the new one can then simply be attached (the plastic holder only needs to be cut out a few mm).

If you're making a version on a small adapter, you don't need TPS, you only buy U1, U2 and U3. You leave the old board and the TPS converter block remains on it. TPS is the most problematic for people and therefore best done on a small PCB.

Hi,
Does anyone have only tiles for sale?

tom_boy80 wrote:

With the second I only get "snow" (see picture)

I had the same problem once, if I rememeber correctly is was bad soldering of the TPS component in my case.

Hi
I am new to the forum and I also have a problem with a barely readable display.
Could someone install a new white display on my original PCB (for a fee), unfortunately I can't do SMD or tape soldering myself.
I would be grateful for the offer on
best regards
Peter

Hello
I read the whole topic and I am impressed with the forum members' commitment to saving the displays. My display also fell. Unfortunately, I do not feel able to assemble the whole thing myself.
So I am asking for help on PM (of course for a fee) in replacing the display.
Greetings,
Darek

Hi,

Thanks to this topic I tried to replace the display of my Nivona. I used Jareks design v21 and after a short test I thought everything worked. However now I assembled my Nivona to run some more tests the display seems to be unstable. I see some “artifacts” and sometimes it switches upside down. Anyone an idea what could be the problem of this? Bad soldering? Other things to check?

https://youtu.be/zPdoqHddAqU

petermdevries wrote:

Hi,

Thanks to this topic I tried to replace the display of my Nivona. I used Jareks design v21 and after a short test I thought everything worked. However now I assembled my Nivona to run some more tests the display seems to be unstable. I see some “artifacts” and sometimes it switches upside down. Anyone an idea what could be the problem of this? Bad soldering? Other things to check?

Hi Peter, you still have an offer from me
Regards, Roland