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NIVONA Caferomatica 830 Coffee Machine: Damaged Display Repair, AliExpress Replacement

paps79 293550 473
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How can I replace the damaged display in a NIVONA Caferomatica 830 with an AliExpress part?

You usually cannot swap in a random AliExpress display: the original module was a special SSD1303T10, and generic substitutes like BL-12864G2 ERNHn/SPD0301 were reported not to fit or to use a different controller [#17062856][#17833740][#18455044] The practical solution that finally worked was to buy an SSD1305/SSD1305Z OLED module from AliExpress and use one of the adapter PCBs developed in the thread; with the reversal fix, it works like the original and no missing-line problem appears [#18305185][#18233157][#18358600] For the J4rek adapter, the tested parts are C1=C3=100nF, C2=4.7uF, U1=SN74AHC1G00DBVR, U2=CD4071BM, and U3=CD4078BM, and the display is soldered directly to the adapter, which then plugs into the machine’s original 20-pin connector [#18959999][#18279191] If you build the simplified version, the TPS61045 stays on the original board; in the full version it is included on the new PCB [#19025589][#18959999]
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  • #301 18600363
    damek4
    Level 12  
    I converted the TPS chip and now the screen is black. I measured the output voltage and it is 4.9V, I could damage the display.

    Close-up of a circuit board with a TPS unit and electronic components after soldering.
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  • #302 18600451
    amigos
    Level 16  
    How did you solder? I don't know what your soldering skills are. To be honest, for me these elements on the plate look terrible. Wash it from the flux to see something :) Check whether there are short circuits between the TPS legs, because often under the system, if you give too much tin before soldering, a short circuit may arise with inefficient soldering. You will have a short circuit between legs 6 and 7 and 1 and 8 with the coil mounted. If you were warming up with a hotair, I hope you have peeled off the display, because if you heat it too much, the display will fall. You will see it after discoloration. If you have a weak soldering, give someone to do it, because you need some skills for TPS.
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  • #303 18622068
    redzid
    Level 11  
    @Smoczy
    Hello, I was very interested in your project with the 39VF512 chip.
    You write that this integrated circuit has modified content so that you can "pass" WR signal through it. I do not understand it very much, whether you have modified this content yourself, or just simply buy this SST39VF512-70-4I-WHE system, e.g. from the TME store and it will be good.
    greetings
  • #304 18622221
    Smoczy
    Level 20  
    The system must be programmed. The content was created by me.
  • #305 18622248
    satanistik
    Level 27  
    Content can be created in any hex edit program. Enter its address in each cell, e.g. in 0h 0h in 1h 1h, except for the cell that corresponds to the scan direction command, where we change one bit. Required knowledge of binary code, can be converted to hex, e.g. with a Windows calculator. The WR signal delay is that it passes through the memory with the same delay as the rest. The issue to read are combination machines on eprom memories.
  • #306 18622273
    redzid
    Level 11  
    OK thanks. I thought you had already bought programmed. However, I can't handle programming. greetings
  • #307 18633637
    amigos
    Level 16  
    I received the tiles according to the J4rek design and finally found time to test the variant without TPS. For me a revelation, everything goes without a problem. Below photos.
    It is known that the board must be desoldered on a 20-pin connector from the control board to be able to desolder the old display and solder the new one. Move the plastic bridge connecting the pins as high as possible and bend pins 5 and 7 to fit the holes in the J4rek board. Slide the board onto the pins and solder also soldering 2 missing pins to the controller board. Cut out protruding elements and solder the whole joint in its place. Display ready ;) As a capacitor C1 I gave 4.7uF, and as C2 and C3 I gave 100nF. I haven't tested the TPS board yet.

    NIVONA Caferomatica 830 Coffee Machine: Damaged Display Repair, AliExpress Replacement NIVONA Caferomatica 830 Coffee Machine: Damaged Display Repair, AliExpress Replacement NIVONA Caferomatica 830 Coffee Machine: Damaged Display Repair, AliExpress Replacement NIVONA Caferomatica 830 Coffee Machine: Damaged Display Repair, AliExpress Replacement NIVONA Caferomatica 830 Coffee Machine: Damaged Display Repair, AliExpress Replacement
  • #308 18635016
    j4rek
    Level 19  
    Hello, it's great that the design has been checked and works properly. C1, C2, C3 can all be 100nF.

    I have a faster (maybe less aesthetic) way to disassemble both tiles - cut the original ladder 'pin by pin' with sharp cutters in about half the length.

    We unfold the plates and replace the display with a new, cut pin 5 and 7 from the display plate remove and clean their assembly points. You can also slightly shorten these pins and solder to them after folding the wires from points X1.5 and X1.7.

    I need to solder 2 longer pins / wires of silverware (to X1.5 and X1.7) into my plate, properly shaped so that after applying and soldering they fit nicely into the exact upper plate with the display. After assembling the whole, we solder the breaks created when cutting the ladders and soldering points 5 and 7 on the display board.
  • #309 18635792
    j4rek
    Level 19  
    I place a newer version of the board (V2r1)

    - the previous arrangement of connections in the gates has been restored (this has been verified, however, this does not affect the operation)

    - the option of mounting the LDO 3V3 stabilizer (U4) powered from Vbat has been added

    - on the left side is marked and drilled area, which after breaking should allow to bypass the dowel from the black base

    View of SSD1305 NIVONA V2r1 PCB with electronic components.

    Diagram and gerberas attached.
    Attachments:
    • SSD1305 NIVONA V2r1 Project Outputs.zip (16.05 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
    • SSD1305 NIVONA V2r1.pdf (52.73 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • #310 18636985
    amigos
    Level 16  
    Somehow it is easier for me to solder in this way

    Close-up of a green circuit board with soldered pins. Circuit board with soldered pins and visible traces.
  • #311 18644026
    quatschei
    Level 1  
    Hi,
    Where can I find the tps chip?
    It was said that you could remove it from the old board (U1), but I only have a U2 chip with 10 legs.
    But you need a chip with 8 legs.
    Use amigos board with SSD1305.

    Thank you very much
  • #313 18650989
    dekRe
    Level 16  
    Hello!
    The J4rka solution looks brilliantly simple - congratulations, so when it works with SSD1305 in addition - it's a design revelation and full of professionalism!

    I only have questions
    1. JP1 jumper with 2.7V and 3.3V voltage selection - what should be the voltage selection for SSD1305 - or are there SSD1305 with different voltages?
    2. I prefer to be sure just in case, so I will ask here - if the CD4078BM DIGITAL BILATERAL SWITCH SOP-14 E4702
    or from the same seller the second system marked as CD4078BM DIGITAL NOR CMOS SOP-14 E4701
    are the same systems as the CD4078B NOR / OR marked on the diagram and can be used interchangeably in this project?
    Thank you for this project and best regards
  • #314 18652585
    j4rek
    Level 19  
    1. By default, you set the jumper on 2V7, and U4 and C4 are unnecessary. This is an option as if the systems have a problem with stability at 2.7V power supply. Theoretically, according to the documentation, they have a minimum 3V guaranteed.

    2. The most important designation is CD4078BM. Generally, the system has the designation CD4078B, and the letter M at the end indicates only the type of housing (SOP-14).
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  • #315 18653741
    kris6661
    Level 11  
    Do you know the store where to buy IC 2 and IC 3? I can't get them anywhere. 4078D and 74AHC.
  • #316 18654541
    j4rek
    Level 19  
    SN74AHC1G00DBVR and CD4078BM are available at tme.eu.
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  • #318 18677595
    Savik
    Level 13  
    Hello high class specialists :)

    At the beginning I wanted to announce that it is quite pleasant to read here :)

    I allowed myself to write here because many specialists follow the thread. To the point. In my new used 831 the display fell, but in a very strange way. First there was a problem with making latte, after a few coffees error 9, a few minutes off and continued to work. When such a mistake appeared more often, I once gently tapped the mobile terminal and then everything went on. The guest from whom I bought said to remove the module, remove the plugs and insert again. I did it, put it together, turned it on, made coffee, I say okay. After next switching on it was a standard screen, then before I could choose anything, it turned 180 degrees and everything disappeared, no reaction to the buttons. After switching off and on with the on / off switch on the side, nothing appeared on the screen anymore, no reaction to the on button at the top. I have to understand that the display module to be replaced? I will add that only after switching on you can hear the sound of the power supply inside and that's it.

    The second thing, apparently the screen was replaced recently ... should this be what solder connections should look like after replacement? It looks like a factory to me ...

    NIVONA Caferomatica 830 Coffee Machine: Damaged Display Repair, AliExpress Replacement NIVONA Caferomatica 830 Coffee Machine: Damaged Display Repair, AliExpress Replacement

    Added after 6 [hours] 56 [minutes]:

    Or maybe someone is in the area of Kielce / Radomsko - Końskie - Częstochowa to come with him, change the display and check if it is really that fault?
  • #319 18679490
    j4rek
    Level 19  
    Damage to these displays is mainly manifested as burnout - poor visibility, and your fault is rather some errors in the driver or communication between components. It is possible that there is some cold solder in the display module (pcb with microprocessor). It is advisable to replace it with another module to exclude it.

    For model 831 I found a description of error 9 (translated from German):

    Meaning: Engine valve error, device malfunction.

    Cause: Damaged drive motor valve, valve not in (zero) position.

    Source:

    https://www.jura-ersatzteile-shop.de/document...ce_Anleitungen/Hinweise/nivona-error-code.pdf
  • #320 18679570
    Savik
    Level 13  
    Thank you for your answer

    I wrote an e-mail to the nivony service, which seems to indicate a ceramic valve. Which engine can this apply to? Brewer or ceramics?
  • #321 18723753
    damek4
    Level 12  
    Hello, where can I get the TPS61045DRBR U1 SON-8 TEXAS INSTRUMENTS?
  • #323 18724342
    Savik
    Level 13  
    In my abovementioned 831, which I returned to the service I bought from, the display board fell, although I do not know exactly what was there but she was the culprit, no communication with the motherboard, because the motherboard was good. The espresso machine came back to me and brews delicious coffee :)
  • #324 18739702
    ketchup007
    Level 10  
    Hello,

    Does anyone have a redundant SSD1305 display board for resale?
    I ordered all parts and tiles of the @satanistik project ... and as it came, it turned out that it was not what I had ordered :)
    Will anyone help? because aiming coffee in the dark is almost a miracle :D
    And what if, I have a few pieces of free project @satanistik ... If someone needs to send it.

    greetings
  • #325 18750031
    mjdob
    Level 1  
    Hello,
    I would like to begin by thanking the authors of the solutions saving the display module for their work input and sharing projects with other users. First of all, my thanks go to amigos, because it was on his design that I carried out the display replacement. Probably soldering could always be a bit nicer, but the screen fired without any corrections and glows, it's nice. The tile was perfectly matched, entered the factory place on the stand and looks like the original. I left the pin connector original, while I soldered the socket into the display board (in case of disassembly and making corrections). Fortunately, there were no corrections, and the female pin connector fits perfectly in height. The whole looks like the pictures. Amigos, thank you very much again.

    Electronic board with a display module after installation A circuit board with integrated circuits and a pin header on a cork surface. Shown is a display module mounted on a PCB with a green background. Close-up of a display module mounted on a green connector board. Display of a Nivona coffee machine showing the menu and selection of 40 ml espresso.
  • #326 18750119
    amigos
    Level 16  
    Cool. I am glad that the work inserted in this topic is appreciated and its effects used. As we created projects, there was probably no public solution available on the market. There are quite a few now ;) I think that many machines were saved.
    The tile came out very nice for you.
    Greetings.
  • #327 18766318
    volkeri
    Level 2  
    Hello everyone,
    I soldered three circuit boards and none of them worked. I do not know what I'm doing wrong.
    I have inserted the pictures of the last board.
    Where can I measure something?

    NIVONA Caferomatica 830 Coffee Machine: Damaged Display Repair, AliExpress Replacement NIVONA Caferomatica 830 Coffee Machine: Damaged Display Repair, AliExpress Replacement NIVONA Caferomatica 830 Coffee Machine: Damaged Display Repair, AliExpress Replacement
  • #328 18767796
    slawek2901
    Level 2  
    Hello
    I ordered this display
    BL 12864G2 ERNHn BOLYMIN
    BL 12864G2 ERNHn
    and I wonder if it will match the NIVONA express.
    It turned out that the tape has only 24 pins.
  • #330 18768631
    damek4
    Level 12  
    I will buy some complete display repair project, maybe someone has something in excess.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion addresses the issue of a damaged OLED display in the NIVONA Caferomatica 830 coffee machine, with the original replacement cost around PLN 900-1000. Users confirm the original display uses the SSD1303T10 driver and is a 128x64 pixel OLED module with a 31-pin connector, which is now rare and discontinued. Attempts to find direct substitutes on AliExpress or other markets largely failed due to incompatible controllers, pin layouts, or mirrored image outputs. Alternative displays such as BL12864G (yellow OLED) from SOS electronic (Slovakia) and similar models from Japan or Russia have been used successfully but require delicate desoldering and soldering of the 31-pin ribbon cable, a process recommended only for skilled technicians. Some users developed or are developing adapter boards to use newer SSD1305, SSD1309, or SPD0301 controller displays, which have different pinouts and may show mirrored images or missing columns, requiring hardware or firmware adaptations. The community shares detailed disassembly instructions for accessing the display module, emphasizing careful removal of the front panel and soldering challenges. Some users report successful repairs by cleaning pins or replacing capacitors and diodes on the motherboard. The discussion also highlights the scarcity of original or compatible displays, the need for specialized repair skills, and ongoing efforts to create adapters for newer OLED modules to extend the machine's lifespan.

FAQ

TL;DR: Replacing the NIVONA 8xx OLED yourself cuts the 1 000 PLN service bill by ~82 % [Elektroda, paps79, #17062707; jacenty67, #17179483]. “It shines like new” once a SSD1305/0301 panel is fitted. Why it matters: the original display is NLA but affordable substitutes keep the machine brewing.

Quick Facts

• Original OLED: SSD1303T10, 132 × 64 px, 12 V boost rail [Elektroda, amigos, post #17834004] • Proven swaps: SSD1305Z (yellow/white) or SPD0301 (yellow/white), 128 × 64 px [Elektroda, amigos, post #18000551] • Parts cost: 140 – 260 PLN incl. PCB, vs. 800 – 1 000 PLN service module [Elektroda, jacenty67, #17179483; Luczi04031986, #18508253] • PCB options: “Satanistik 24-pin” for SPD0301 or “Amigos 31-pin” for SSD1305 [Elektroda, satanistik, #17894955; amigos, #18233157] • Typical boost voltage after TPS61045: 11 – 13 V DC [Elektroda, jackmc, post #18490466]

Which replacement OLED works without missing pixel columns?

Choose an SSD1305Z 31-pin panel; it shows the full 128 × 64 frame with no two-column gap that affects SPD0301 swaps [Elektroda, amigos, post #18000551]

Why does my SPD0301 screen show a 2-pixel blank strip?

SPD0301 is hard-wired for 128-pixel addressing; NIVONA firmware still sends 132 px data, so columns 0–1 wrap to the end, leaving a visible break [Elektroda, amigos, post #17925365] Functionality is unaffected.

What PCB adapter should I order for SSD1305?

Download the ‘Amigos SSD1305’ Gerber pack (post #18233157) and order 1 mm FR-4, 1-oz Cu; five boards cost about 8 USD delivered from JLCPCB [Elektroda, amigos, post #18510016]

Do I need hot-air to solder TPS61045 boost IC?

Yes. The SON-8 package sits under the board; use 250 °C air, flux, and tweezers. Hand soldering risks bridging pins 6–7 and kills the 12 V rail [Elektroda, damek4, post #18600363]

Edge case: display stays dark after swap—what to test?

  1. Measure VCC at JP1 pins 1-2; it must be 3.3 V.
  2. Check boost output at C4/C10; expect ~12 V.
  3. Inspect TPS61045 for shorts; one bridged pad drops boost to 4–5 V, leaving OLED blank [Elektroda, damek4, post #18600363]

How to flip the mirrored image on SSD1305/0301?

Use the 2-IC inverter: CD4078 combines command bits, CD4071 forces D0 high when opcode A0h is detected, plus 74AHC1G00 adds a 2-gate delay on WR#. Full schematic in post #18507781.

Is a plug-and-play board available?

Yes. Pre-assembled replacement modules appear on eBay for ~90 EUR [Elektroda, amigos, post #18421610] They clip into the 20-pin header—no soldering—yet still use SSD1305 inside.

Statistic: how much money do DIYers actually save?

Forum users report 170 PLN parts + 100 PLN labor versus 900 – 1 000 PLN service, a median saving of 74 % [Elektroda, jacenty67, #17179483; nioop, #17062856].

Can I reuse the old boost inductor and diode?

Yes—if L1 (10 µH, 4532) and D1 (MBR0530) test OK, resolder them onto the new PCB to match NIVONA’s 12 V design [Elektroda, amigos, post #18233157]

3-step How-To: swapping the OLED panel

  1. Unsnap front fascia, desolder 31-pin ribbon, lift old SSD1303 OLED.
  2. Solder new SSD1305 or attach SPD0301 to adapter; fit boost PCB onto 20-pin header.
  3. Bridge D0 (pin 7) per schematic, reassemble, set clock.

What if the new OLED flickers or is dim?

Reflow TPS61045 and check R4 (set to 120 kΩ). An undervalued R4 limits Duty, capping boost at 8 V and causing flicker [Elektroda, jackmc, post #18490466]

Can I order parts locally instead of AliExpress?

Yes. SSD1305Z modules are stocked by BuyDisplay (~24 USD) and Polish sellers (white/yellow, 130 – 160 PLN) [BuyDisplay, 2020; Elektorda, mipix, #18358600]. PCB components are common 0402/0603 passives.

Expert tip for beginners?

“Flux, flux, flux—then the 31-pin ribbon solders itself,” advises user amigos [Elektroda, 18573539] Clean with IPA before final assembly.
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