Aisin AM6 (TF80sc) Gearbox Issue: Strong Jerks After Replacing Controller - Solenoid Advice

I have a problem with the Aisin AM6 (TF80sc) gearbox. After replacing the controller with an allegedly regenerated one, it tugs strongly when throwing P or R, which solenoid is responsible for this? Maybe someone knowledgeable about things will suggest?

Have you adapted the gearbox?

Yes of course. New oil.

Maybe it will be useful: https://ezbubu.files.wordpress.com/2016/03/tf-80sc-transmission-adaptation-procedure.pdf
Ps. JWS 3309 oil for these boxes.

Thanks, can you tell me which parts of the driver are working on PND switching?
I have a question about a lock-up, should a taxi driver lock himself when driving around the city? because I still have changes in engine speed when adding gas and taking off

Hello. Has the problem been resolved? I have exactly the same problem. I replaced the driver and poured it with new oil (3.5 L). The gearbox hits very hard when switching to R, sometimes it engages this gear with a delay. What do i need to do now? I have a diagbox, I wrote down the oil consumption counter. I don't know how to adapt. Should I do a pressure study or just adjust the meter?

Not quite so, I managed to kick a new controller and it changes as much, the oil counter has nothing to do with the oil and this is some kind of correction, it's best to delete and start the adaptations and it will create itself in some time. In fact, no one writes how to do this adaptation, so much from the dzagboxa I read. And is this a new driver or a used one?

This is the driver being used. Now it really works badly. When throwing reverse R, the little engine with the box will not break out of the shed.

I was doing the entire adaptation today. So in DB I chose the option (oil change in the box). The oil consumption counter was reset and "pressure science" was done according to the computer.
Then driving according to the procedure:

- we delete old adaptations with any available interface (maybe even Carsoft). You can find some on the net
descriptions of deleting adaptations such as "turn the key, press the gas" but these are fairy tales. Theoretically, adaptations should happen
delete after a very long power cut, but this is an uncertain method, and how to ensure the condition in such a system
hot box ...?

- we immediately start the adaptation process (driving even a few meters after canceling can disrupt our entire work)

- lock the box on 1, move very slowly and gently press the gas until the above-mentioned revolutions are reached
(or even a bit lower), let go of the gas and let the revs drop to about 1000-1200 (so that at higher gears the gear does not change to a lower one), then repeat the same thing 4 times

- the last time after reaching the limit speed, manually switch the gearbox to 2 and repeat the procedure 4 times
as for 1

- we do the same for each subsequent run

- after completing the procedure for 5, gently stop and let the engine work 10 minutes on P.

When finished, we turn off the engine, fire it up and check that the quality of the shifting has improved. If not, the procedure
repeat by reducing the maximum range described above by 100-200 turns.


Unfortunately, no effect. He changes gears from D1-D6 quite well, but he still does not fasten the Lock-up to D. I watched him even in the DB and saw when he fastened and when he did not. In manual mode you can say it works as it should. From 2-6 he fastens and keeps turning, you can brake the engine. There is still a strong hit on the R, and it's only happening on the warm one.

The other rudder. I think I also have a damaged ...

On One, it pulls 2/3 and does not lock the Lock-up
On the second (the one now installed) Wali when switching to R or dropping R on warm and does not lock the Lock-up

Which valve is responsible for the Lock-up and which is responsible for reverse gear?

If gearbox jerks, clean all the valves or replace it.
Or check coil resistency via my correct pic.