Toyota Yaris 1.0 2000 ver. - "clattering" the engine

Hi,
I write as a last resort, I always try first to find the answer somewhere in the forums ... And if I found, I would not write.

Longed-for by the wife of Yarisk from 2000, Japanese version, 1.0, on gasoline, 208,000 km, after buying in February this year oil (5w30), oil filters, air filters, candles for NGK catalogs, flowmeter cleaning. Everything works but ...

First of all, the cold and warm engine clicks - this is how I would describe this sound. I go and add gas, clicks, lets go - it stops. At idle the same. It is all the time. I suspect (is it right?) That the valves are adjustable? Can you grasp it yourself? I am not afraid to "screw up with grease" and I also have some manual skills. Is it better to leave it to a specialist from Krakow or the surrounding area, because it will be complicated for someone who wants to repair the car in the yard (no special tools)?

Secondly, I have an irresistible impression that it seems to gather poorly. Weaker than the Felicia 1.3 mpi (68HP, 106 Nm) - and this is no racer. And I read that Yariski are such small torpedoes. And then I think something is wrong. We bought a Yariska with a view to driving around the city (agility, small turning radius), and here the problem with "escape" from the intersection, or moving away from the traffic lights and overtaking the truck. Unfortunately, I have no comparison, whether only I have it or whether this type is generally so. How is it? I am asking for comments - in the toyota forum, I was lost

Thanks in advance for your help.

It is unlikely that these are valves, although it would be nice to check them, because with such a course it would have to be adjusted.
It is often with valves when they click on cold, and on warm silence.
When you don't accelerate (engine braking) the valves keep working, not clicking. Here I would bow towards the injectors.

Hello, I had a similar case in such an engine, the client complained about the loud work of the engine, almost the same symptoms turned out that the connecting rod on the first cylinder was bent like a banana. I have not found the reason, but the toy car still flies today.

Added after 4 [minutes]:

Sorry . The reason was a bent connecting rod, but why I do not know, after repair, the car is speeding.

Record this sound. It can be a crank system, it can be a timing gear, including a variable timing wheel.
I also have a problem with gathering, but I don't click - according to the mechanic, everything is ok, mileage 180,000 (real). As for the "torpedo" - enough power for me, some believe that scooters and trucks gather on the crossroads. When I release the clutch somewhere like this at 2200 rpm it is quite good, but it used to be better than the lower ones. We have a new car.

Thanks for your feedback.
Attached is a video of the clatter when adding gas. It's better to hear than record the sound itself. This clatter is always on cold and warm engine. And especially under load. At idle much quieter, but in the cabin it can be heard very well.
In the morning I hooked up the recently purchased ELM327, launched Torque on my cell and ... no bugs or frozen frames.
Pepe150, you write about injectors ... until I got stuck, if you hit with a diagnosis. There will be expenses.
Luzik, Helmud ... connecting rod, timing, vvti ...
One thing I know, the engine should not clatter. Maybe at first when cold. Or diesel.
Someone today told me that the clatter is 90% timing chain. And if the chain to be replaced is definitely the valve to control the timing phases.
In addition, I have to check the oil suction teat in its condition. There is a leak between the engine and the oil pan, but after loosening the screws, the pan will not vibrate, as if welded. And I don't want to "hammer her".

So one way or another I am waiting to open the engine and check it all in turn. It's probably too much for my capabilities and manual skills.

It probably clicks the chain. Replace the set with slides and the tensioner. The variable phase valve is not a problem here. The bowl is glued so you have to use force.

Thanks for the tip.
I see on Allegro a complete valve timing for 330 PLN, from Ashika, without a phaser - will I need a phaser to replace?
And can you exchange in "home" conditions? Somewhere in the yard?
I just bought the book "Service and repair guide" so what's shown there is a bit.
Unless the exchange is too complicated.

The book explains how to get to the oil pan.

In my opinion, the piston knocks. Replacing the timing gear may not be very complicated but the bolt holding the pulley is quite tightened and you need to have a strong pneumatic wrench or make an extra blockage (there are m8 threads in the wheel)

I went to the mechanic with it. He listened to the engine, drove over ... He claims that the valves are too big. It says that there is better too much valve clearance than too low. He said one thing: it is possible to drive with it and nothing bad is happening - the question is whether this sound bothers me. Because, yes, you have to compensate for the slack on the glasses, and when you open the engine, it can always come out something, e.g. a crooked shaft, etc.
My wife doesn't mind, she can't hear anything ( - after all, she drives her.
And damn it takes me every time I hear this clatter.
PS. Maybe it's a coincidence, but this clatter appeared shortly after replacing the oil from "some sort" for 5W30.

I know the case that a guy changed oil and something started ticking him. They told him the valve guides. He exchanged oil for another and silence. It was in z16xel
So you have classic or hydro push rods? Because the adjustment of the former is just removing the top cover
Find out what oil is to be in your engine

There is a mechanical adjustment there. Large clearances are not healthy, but for two bad guys it is better clatter than overhead valves.