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Extending & Connecting 2x1 Wire-Strand Cables in 20-Year-Old Building with Polystyrene Facade

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  • #1 17142591
    piczowąs
    Level 9  
    Posts: 13
    Rate: 6
    Hello.
    In a 20-year-old building, I have cables (2x1 wire wires) for lighting at balconies. It has to stay that way because, unfortunately, there is no option to bring out new cables with a larger cross-section.
    1) How can I extend the cables over the balconies because so far there is bare brick, but I will be making the facade of the building, so there will be polystyrene going and some of the cables taken out may be too short.
    2) Can I connect wire with wire to wire with wire? (in one place I have it done and I don't know if it can stay that way)
    3) Is it possible to connect a wire 2x1 wire to a wire 2x1.5 wire?
    Please help..
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  • #2 17142614
    zbich70
    Level 43  
    Posts: 17116
    Help: 1164
    Rate: 6568
    piczowąs wrote:
    In a 20-year-old building, I have cables (wires 2x1 wire)

    Well that's a big shit, buddy.
    The requirement for a separate (or third) protective conductor is older than that of the building.
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  • #3 17142693
    piczowąs
    Level 9  
    Posts: 13
    Rate: 6
    Sorry to the mistake of a 30-year-old home. I guess there were no such requirements then, if there is such an installation? :)
    There are 4 places where these 2x1 cables come out and as much as in two places they will someday be used 3x1.5 because there is such a possibility (the floor is not finished), in the other two places there is no option to put such cables out .. unless you demolish a piece walls and plastering on the entire ground floor, which of course is already finished and decorated a long time ago :)
    So wherever I can use 3x1.5 cables, I promise I will ;)
    I would like to get an answer to the questions I asked.
    Thank you in advance :)
  • #4 17142716
    zbich70
    Level 43  
    Posts: 17116
    Help: 1164
    Rate: 6568
    piczowąs wrote:
    Sorry to the mistake of a 30-year-old home.

    The cottage quickly aged a decade.
    Normal... :D
    Do you have any paper from the last 5-year review?
  • #5 17142796
    piczowąs
    Level 9  
    Posts: 13
    Rate: 6
    He aged so quickly because I checked the date when the house was built especially on this occasion, and I did not build it, but I moved here two years ago and at this point I cannot afford to redo the entire existing electrical system to meet today's requirements. So for now, where something can be improved, it is and will be improved, and where it cannot be improved, it will be improved during a general renovation in a few years. And then everything will be good and the reviews will also be ...
    Meanwhile, I would just like to get answers to the questions I asked.
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  • #6 17143149
    zbich70
    Level 43  
    Posts: 17116
    Help: 1164
    Rate: 6568
    piczowąs wrote:
    1) How can I extend the cables over the balconies because so far there is bare brick, but I will be making the facade of the building, so there will be polystyrene going and some of the cables taken out may be too short.
    2) Can I connect a wire with a wire to a wire with a wire? (in one place I have it done and I don't know if it can stay that way)
    3) Is it possible to connect a wire 2x1 wire to a wire 2x1.5 wire?
    Please help..

    You can connect.
    You need a press, sleeves and a suitable heat shrink kit.
    Take the size larger for the sleeve cable.
    Only the lines do not "slim down" by cutting wires.

    Oh, since there are two strands, it would be necessary to check whether the other strand is suitable for protection at all - whether it is zero or undersized PEN at all.
    Also check the IPZ and the SWZ condition.
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  • #7 17143660
    piczowąs
    Level 9  
    Posts: 13
    Rate: 6
    Thank you very much for having finally partially answered my question :)
    I am asking only that, without knowing specific facts, not to speculate about this or that, let's talk in such a way that I would receive a specific answer to a specific question without being wrapped in additional conspiracy theories :) Only after I get answers to my questions, we can argue and why is it, why is it and what is not, and what is examined and what is not, and what is paper for and what is not, and why I should I'm asking questions since I'm not a qualified electrician .. Don't worry, everything will be done in due time Rome was not built in a day.
    I just want to get advice from a qualified electrician, e.g. from the elektroda.pl forum, for example, in order to find out about other solutions, maybe better, maybe worse than those I planned to do.

    Back to the topic..
    Okay, so I already know that I can connect the wire to the line.
    And it is connected in such a way that a special connection sleeve with a heat-shrinkable sheath is clamped on the wire and on the cable, and additionally, a heat-shrinkable tube with glue is welded on the cable.

    But in the end, I do not know if it is possible to connect a new cable (wire) 3x1.5 to the old (wire) 2x1, i.e. can a new cable with a larger cross-section be connected to the existing one with a smaller cross-section ??? In other words, I want to pull the 3x1.5 cable from the balcony (3rd wire for the future, i.e. 2x1.5 used so far) and connect it to the inside with the 2x1 cable.
    If it can be good, if not necessarily why?


    An electrician will check this installation, but only after I extend the cables.
  • #8 17144800
    zbich70
    Level 43  
    Posts: 17116
    Help: 1164
    Rate: 6568
    piczowąs wrote:

    An electrician will check this installation, but only after I extend the cables.

    So ask him right now what's the problem?
  • #9 17145219
    piczowąs
    Level 9  
    Posts: 13
    Rate: 6
    And again the same ... I see that it's hard to find out about anything here. Apparently I found someone who does not want to give an answer but to upset the man who asked 3 simple questions in the "electrics for everyone" section and not in the electricians section. Ok, thank you and best regards.
  • #10 17145232
    Krzysztof Kamienski
    Level 43  
    Posts: 21875
    Help: 2030
    Rate: 5128
    piczowąs wrote:
    And it is connected in such a way that a special connection sleeve with a heat-shrinkable sheath is clamped on the wire and on the cable, and additionally, a heat-shrinkable tube with glue is welded on the cable.
    Not necessarily - it is more practical than this
    https://www.ceneo.pl/41470918
  • #11 17145297
    retrofood
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Posts: 31317
    Help: 1140
    Rate: 4781
    piczowąs wrote:
    And again the same ... I see that it's hard to find out about anything here.

    And what do you want to know after the introductory statement:
    Quote:
    It has to stay that way because, unfortunately, there are no options

    So don't try to get a normal electrician to accept the trash.
  • #12 17146154
    Szyszkownik Kilkujadek
    Level 37  
    Posts: 5011
    Help: 211
    Rate: 1008
    piczowąs wrote:
    In a 20-year-old building, I have cables (2x1 wire wires) for lighting at balconies. It has to stay that way because, unfortunately, there is no option to bring out new cables with a larger cross-section.

    You do "shit" at your own risk.
    piczowąs wrote:
    1) How can I extend the cables over the balconies because so far there is bare brick, but I will be making the facade of the building, so there will be polystyrene going and some of the cables taken out may be too short.
    2) Can I connect a wire with a wire to a wire with a wire? (in one place I have it done and I don't know if it can stay that way)

    Here the answers fell.
    piczowąs wrote:
    3) Is it possible to connect a wire 2x1 wire to a wire 2x1.5 wire?

    What in principle? Not. :-)
  • #13 17146609
    piczowąs
    Level 9  
    Posts: 13
    Rate: 6
    Ok thank you for all the answers.
  • #14 17149383
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #15 19445034
    ppawlicki
    Level 11  
    Posts: 8
    Rate: 1
    Cables with the same cross-section can be successfully combined with each other, regardless of whether it is a string or a wire. The link should then be twisted before being pressed in the sleeve. Generally, these short sleeves with a heat-shrinkable insulation shell will not work. I have used such couplings, and unfortunately they do not have high mechanical strength. Longer copper couplings are available for sale. Wires are inserted inside it, ie until the other side, and tightened. Some still solder the wires inside with tin - not to be confused with low-temperature alloys. The connection is heat-shrinkable and ready. This combination guarantees moss strength - electr.
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Topic summary

✨ In a discussion regarding the extension and connection of 2x1 wire-strand cables in a 20-year-old building with a polystyrene facade, users addressed several key concerns. The main issues included the feasibility of extending existing cables, the legality and safety of connecting wires of different sizes, and the methods for ensuring secure connections. It was confirmed that connecting wires is permissible, provided proper techniques are used, such as utilizing heat shrink tubing and appropriate sleeves. Users advised against using resin joints due to space constraints and recommended soldering connections for enhanced mechanical strength. The discussion also touched on the historical context of electrical regulations, noting that 3-wire installations have been mandatory since 1994.
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FAQ

TL;DR: For older 2‑core balcony lighting, use sealed crimped splices, then document the 5‑year inspection; “Do you have any paper from the last 5‑year review?” [Elektroda, zbich70, post #17142716]

Why it matters: It helps homeowners extend short balcony-lighting cables safely before insulating with polystyrene (EPS), without future rework.

Quick Facts

How do I extend a short 2x1 mm² balcony lighting cable under polystyrene?

Use a crimped, sealed inline splice. 1) Select a copper sleeve sized for the larger conductor. 2) Crimp with a ratcheting press; do not remove strands. 3) Seal with adhesive heat‑shrink and strain‑relieve. “You need a press, sleeves and a suitable heat shrink kit.” [Elektroda, zbich70, post #17143149]

Can I connect stranded to stranded, or solid to solid, safely?

Yes, if you ensure mechanical strength and sealing. Twist the conductors before crimping and use a longer copper coupling. Some installers solder inside the coupling with tin afterward. Do not use low‑temperature alloys. Finish with adhesive heat‑shrink for durability. [Elektroda, ppawlicki, post #19445034]

Can I connect a 2x1 mm² cable to a 2x1.5 mm² cable?

Avoid it where possible. The forum consensus was “in principle” no, due to protection and identification risks. If you must, ensure the protective concept remains clear, and do not downsize any conductor. Plan a full 3‑core upgrade. [Elektroda, Szyszkownik Kilkujadek, post #17146154]

Should I upgrade to a 3‑core cable with PE for balcony lights?

Yes, where feasible. A separate protective conductor has long been required for Class I luminaires. Two‑core runs are outdated for new work. Pull 3x1.5 mm² where you can and terminate the PE correctly. [Elektroda, zbich70, post #17142614]

What tools and sizes do I need for reliable outdoor splices?

Use a ratcheting crimp tool, copper sleeves, and adhesive heat‑shrink. Choose the sleeve for the larger conductor in the pair. Do not "slim down" a strand bundle to fit a smaller sleeve. Seal thoroughly to exclude moisture. [Elektroda, zbich70, post #17143149]

Are compact gel or heat‑shrink splice kits okay behind EPS facade insulation?

Yes. Compact gel or heat‑shrink joints are practical and space‑saving compared with resin boxes. Select kits rated for outdoor use and the cable size. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to maintain ingress protection. [Elektroda, Krzysztof Kamienski, post #17145232]

Resin joint vs adhesive heat‑shrink: which is better under polystyrene?

Under EPS, resin joints can be bulky. Many installers prefer adhesive heat‑shrink over cleaned and soldered or crimped conductors, optionally overwrapped with 3M Scotch 23. Measure and restore both core and outer insulation lengths. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #17149383]

What testing should I do after extending the cables?

Verify fault‑loop impedance (IPZ) and automatic disconnection (SWZ) before closing the facade. Measure at the farthest point of the circuit. “Also check the IPZ and the SWZ condition.” Keep records with photos of joints and test results. [Elektroda, zbich70, post #17143149]

Do I need an inspection document before I insulate the facade?

Yes, schedule an inspection and keep documentation, aligning with the standard 5‑year review cycle. This protects you and future work. Inspections confirm protection measures before the joint becomes inaccessible behind EPS. [Elektroda, zbich70, post #17142716]

What if the second core is being used as a PEN or "zero" conductor?

Assess it carefully. A two‑core run may hide an undersized PEN, which is unsafe for fault protection. Measure IPZ and confirm disconnection times. If it fails, rewire or pull a separate PE. This is a critical edge case. [Elektroda, zbich70, post #17143149]

Is soldering allowed in cable splices for this application?

Use solder only as reinforcement inside a proper mechanical coupling. Do not rely on solder alone for strength. Avoid low‑melt alloys. Finish with adhesive heat‑shrink for sealing and strain relief. This approach improves joint integrity. [Elektroda, ppawlicki, post #19445034]

Can I bury the splice under EPS, or must it remain accessible?

Keep joints accessible unless they are certified maintenance‑free assemblies installed as specified. Otherwise, joints should be available for inspection and testing. Choose rated maintenance‑free joints if they will be concealed by the facade. [IEC, 2009]

Is it okay to leave 2‑core now and plan 3‑core later?

You can, but you accept increased risk and non‑conformance. The forum warned such work is your responsibility. Prioritize upgrading to a 3‑core with PE when access becomes practical to restore full protection. [Elektroda, Szyszkownik Kilkujadek, post #17146154]
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