[Solved] Connecting Sirens to Satel Perfecta 32WRL: Setup for SP4001 & SPW250R with OUT1-4 Settings

Hello.
On the 3rd screen there are output settings:
1 -0, 2 - 11, 3 - 1, 4 - 1,
1 and 2 are high-current outputs and 3 and 4 low-current ones. 1 and 2 are used for power supply and 3 and 4 for control. Do these settings mean that the control is from 3 and 4 and the supply of both signaling devices from 2?
I have two beacons to connect to the perfect 32wrl. While I can handle the connection, I have a problem with the settings. SP4001 I was going to connect the control to out3 and the spw250r to out4 and set OUT3 to external signaling. and OUT4 for 2 internal siren. I don't know how to set OUT 1 and 2 to use these outputs as power supply for both signaling devices.
I am asking for help.

Moderated By suworow:

I separated from the topic: https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3369134.html

1. Instead of waiting for cash, a colleague can look at the instructions where the types of outputs are described and suggest something. We are happy to confirm your colleague's guess.
2. Please look at the SP 4001 manual and tell us where your colleague wants to give this permanent power supply there?
3. When controlling the siren, please take into account the maximum load capacity of the outputs and what is given / picked up on them.


I am waiting for proposals.
best regards

Let's start from the beginning. I do not expect ready help, if it is to be implemented in this way, I will throw it here as soon as I intend to connect and set it all up.
I am not an installer and this will be the second control panel in my house. The first one was started by a colleague who deals with it every day, but I would like to start it myself, by the way, learning something, so as not to turn his guitar with every bullshit when I think of something, or I will want to add some element of the system. So please be forgiving.
Here I will throw a screen from the previous post so that it was clear what I wrote at the beginning.

In a few minutes I will edit the text and add the rest of my scribbles

Franzelot wrote:

but I would like to run myself now, learning something by the way

And it boasts that a friend wants to learn, not "fuck on the bench from a friend from the benches" and (that seems to be said at school)?
If a friend wants to learn, then as I wrote earlier, please look at the instructions of the sirens, see how much power they have and how they are triggered. Then look at your control panel outputs, see what they provide, their load capacity and familiarize yourself with their types, trying to match the appropriate siren. Has a colleague given what to look for, limited by the above guidelines material that you need to read only to several pages. and I expect my colleague to read, draw conclusions and suggest something on this basis. And if he doesn't understand something, he will ask / ask.
best regards
ps.I don't remember if this one is perfect, but one of the instructions from the satellite contained examples of connecting various signaling devices to the control panels and I suggest using it, and of course similar topics on the forum.

Looking at the diagrams from other posts, the connection would look like this, but it was CA-5 and a 2.2kOhm resistor was also used there (between the Z8 and TMP of the enclosure, but it is probably because of the CA5 in which you have to do it) -screen1. I haven't read perfectly that you have to use such a resistor. However, when I look at information and diagrams of connecting sirens, my correct connection should look like this-screen2.

For this setting the control panel

Or maybe connect SP4001 SO and SA under OUT1 and SPW250R + 12V under OUT2 + and then program OUT1 as an external siren and OUT2 as an internal siren?

I have 7 Bosch PIR detectors (2EOL / NC) and one PRF-LCD keypad for the whole system. I will put 1 detector upstairs to the corridor, but no problem, I will cover without an expander, I will connect two detectors from the dining room and kitchen to one entrance). I wanted to connect the detectors power supply to AUX both (for 4 detectors each)

Looking further into the I / O settings, I think OUT3 should be set to 3: Burglar alarm.
OUT1 outdoor siren SA / SO +/-, and OUT 2 outdoor siren + 12V / COM.
Will this configuration be correct?

Franzelot wrote:

And can connect SP4001 SO and SA under OUT1

Unless your colleague needs separate control of the siren's optics and acoustics (operation times and reasons for triggering a given track are the most) This is how it is done.

Franzelot wrote:

a SPW250R + 12V under OUT2 + and then program OUT1 as an external siren and OUT2 as an internal siren?

For out one will be the most correct setting. When out 2 is not necessary. The fact that the output is called an internal siren does not determine that an internal siren must be connected there. It just means a way of doing things. (Please compare, for example, by making a table the way these two outputs work and assess your colleague's needs in this) Please also consider when the "siren" type output is activated. Of course, triggering the internal siren connected a colleague correctly. As for the output 3 output setting, it depends what your colleague wants to signal on it. It can be set as external signal, internal signaling device, and if it is only intended to signal burglary alarms, it is actually a burglary alarm. There are different schools and different needs in this respect.

Franzelot wrote:

I have 7 Bosch PIR detectors (2EOL / NC) and one PRF-LCD keypad for the whole system. I will put 1 detector upstairs to the corridor, but no problem, I will cover without an expander, I will connect two detectors from the dining room and kitchen to one entrance). I wanted to connect the detectors power supply to AUX both (for 4 detectors each)

One guest here on the forum once embraced dozens of reed switches on one line. He was proud of himself. It is a pity that a colleague did not write immediately that he wants to learn, but trash. Putting two detectors on one line is a last resort and making a tamper loop by two signaling devices.
best regards

I hope my friend has differences in the way the sirens work. The external one is triggered by supplying power to it. The internal one is powered all the time (question to a friend if - I suggest you do a test by connecting yourself to the table under the battery) and triggered in an additional way - and this can be done from the output with low current efficiency.

I have what I have and I have to make sense of it somehow, I know that you should not connect detectors on one line but in this case I have to do it (temporary solution). As for sabotage, I didn't even know that it was a mistake in art with such a combination. Suggests a colleague that tamper with detectors and sirens and enclosures connect separately? So I would need 3 free entries - at the moment I don't have such comfort.
In the future I will buy an expander because I want to add reed switches to wired windows and also do roller shutter control (lower / raise) and garage door control. Then with the expander I will be able to separate everything, and at the moment I have to be content with what I have and what I can do about it.
As for the SP4001, optics and acoustics are supposed to work together for me and the SPW250R is supposed to support external operation. It is known that the outside is hardly audible inside. The siren are to work with every violation of detectors and also when sabotaging nothing more I require of them (well at least not that they would make me dinner ).
Ultimately, I would prefer that this alarm never works for me or anyone (I mean correct operation), let it sit quietly.
Thank you for your answer
Best regards.


EDIT:
Then I have a problem. I connected one detector and an internal siren to the keypad and is still howling. I didn't have a battery - I thought that because of this, I connected the battery, still howling. Connection as in screen 2, i.e.
OUT2 + -> 12V +
COM -> COM
OUT3 -> D
COM -> TMP
Z8 -> TMP
All out settings in the control panel as unused siren howls, after setting OUT2 and OUT3 as an internal siren, they continue to howl, even when I disconnected the power supply and batteries.
What am I doing wrong?

Hello,

Franzelot wrote:

Suggests a colleague that tamper with detectors and sirens and enclosures connect separately? So I would need 3 free entries - at the moment I don't have such comfort.

After what you write, you can see that you have no idea what you are doing ... Read about the DEOL line.
As for the internal siren, why do you need flashing optics in it?
Probably only so that in the dark the burglar hit him as if on a string and rendered him harmless.

Best regards.

Franzelot wrote:

Suggests a colleague that tamper with detectors and sirens and enclosures connect separately? So I would need 3 free entries - at the moment I don't have such comfort.

It will eventually be a colleague connecting detectors in DEOL or with a tamper loop, because I'm a little lost in it? As in DEOL, someone recently asked on the forum how to connect two detectors in this way to one line. Just review the max topics from last month.

bhtom wrote:

As for the internal siren, why do you need flashing optics in it?
Probably only so that in the dark the burglar hit him as if on a string and rendered him harmless.

37 minutes of the performance, a butler enters (by no means this is a personal trip but only an example) and invites everyone to the table. The problem is that every day regardless of what performance they play on a given day. This is your tail, write an article about the role of the internal siren in the alarm system. I will be grateful, just like the crowds of users.

Franzelot wrote:

All out settings in the control panel as unused siren howls, after setting OUT2 and OUT3 as an internal siren, they continue to howl, even when I disconnected the power supply and batteries.
What am I doing wrong?

Franzelot wrote:

I wrote at the top that you want to learn something, so I have no idea what I'm doing.

This is the problem of self-declarations and life. A friend declared to us that he wants to learn and is blindfolding. After all, I wrote that it is worth training yourself by connecting the siren on the table directly to the battery ... After all, he drew in the diagram the release of this siren .....

norbert.s. wrote:

Buddy, howls because you haven't reversed the polarity of the siren trigger output, any of it can even be low current. This signaling device is triggered by loss of weight or plus, in the case of Perfektta it is to be set to loss of weight -D. That's all about controlling this siren.

And I checked this setting, because I read about this polarization, I do not know how it did not work before, you can see something wrong. Probably only OUT3 marked correctly. Thank you, the dog was buried here.

suworow wrote:

It will eventually be a colleague connecting detectors in DEOL or with a tamper loop, because I'm a little lost in it? As in DEOL, someone recently asked on the forum how to connect two detectors in this way to one line. Just review the max topics from last month.

Detectors in 2EOL / NC, when I wrote about tamper, I meant connecting the tamper from the housing and sirens to COM / Z8 terminals. Here, I have set the input as NC and the reaction type as 24h tamper-connection and setup, I just saw in the forum.

suworow wrote:

This is the problem of self-declarations and life. A friend declared to us that he wants to learn and is blindfolding. After all, I wrote that it is worth training yourself by connecting the siren on the table directly to the battery ... After all, he drew in the diagram the release of this siren .....

I do everything "on the table", everything is undressed connected with only one detector, without battery, sensor tamper wrapped in an elastic band The makeshift herself.
Now only notifications remain set and assemble everything. I will connect the second siren when I mount the housing with the control panel where it should be. I have the schematic, I should know no polarities. Tomorrow I will put everything together, I will mark the post as resolved.
Thank you all for the advice and patience.
best regards
Piotr Urbanski.

Mr. Piotr,
No rush. You will look carefully at the configuration, in particular the options for entry and exit and do not stop at the fact that if it could be armed and howled after violation it is already good
"Electronics" that obviously a colleague is no longer lying behind a colleague. Now there is a logic with which it should be better to bring it after the statements. But asking, if only to make sure, won't hurt.
best regards

I dismantled the old alarm, mounted a new and another problem. How to connect 1 detector to the test on a 2m cable is ok, if I connect a detector that hangs on the wall, when I pass by it immediately sabotage. Anyone have any idea?

Sabotage every time. I have 6 detectors, all connected equally and if I connect them to the control panel, it doesn't matter which I won't pass, I will immediately sabotage it. As I plug in only one on a short cable it is ok. It is impossible that it was the fault of the wires and all detectors.
In the app Perfecta Control always shows as the first violated detector from the entrance, and I did not approach it. Maybe it's whacked or something with a wire? Could it cause such a state then? I'll check in the morning, for now, every transition near the detectors will trigger an alarm.

sharp straight to the point. Today the fight is what's wrong this morning.
At the beginning I would like to thank everyone for advice and mobilization for thinking. As Suvorov said, I was at odds with electronics and he was right. Sharp now completed what I came to this afternoon but couldn't write back (bowling with my family).
It never occurred to me that Satel together with the control panel sends two sets of different resistors, one 1.1kOhm and the other 2.2kOhm. Unfortunately, not knowing the markings, and I mistakenly assumed that they are all of equal value, I used the 2.2kOhm, and later I checked with the meter those that were 1.1kOhm. As it turned out, the detector for testing I had combined with 1.1kOhm resistors which misled me. And longer sections of cables added their fools here.
I have connected all detectors today in NC and tomorrow I will make the correct 2EOL / NC with the correct resistors.
I consider the topic solved.
Thank you all.

Added after 14 [minutes]:

With the help of people from the forum.


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Satel Perfecta alarm control panel, configuration - selected issues A collection of topics
Outputs (programmable and not only) for control panels
How the control panel alarm outputs work
Connecting any detector to any control panel - guide
How to connect the siren to the control panel - guide

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