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Local Button & Centralized Alarm Panel Roller Blind Control: Converting Installations & Wiring

Kons18 23772 25
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How can I wire roller shutters so each window has a local up/down button and the whole set can also be controlled from an alarm panel, and what cables should I add now before plastering?

The cleanest solution is to use a dedicated roller-shutter module/controller in the switchboard, because it resolves the conflict between local and central control and lets you open/close the shutter with a short press instead of holding the button down [#20078666] If you do not want controllers inside the wall boxes, use DIN-rail relays in the switchboard and wire the local switches directly to the control circuitry rather than through panel inputs, because direct motor control otherwise requires holding the button for the whole travel time [#17194230][#17194301] For the wiring, the motor side is normally run with a 5-core shutter cable: L, N, PE, plus separate up and down conductors from the central controller [#17194900] Between each window box and the switchboard, add a separate alarm/control cable; examples given were YTDY-type cable, 6x0.5, or even 5x2x0.5 to leave spare cores [#17194230][#17200535] One reply also suggested bringing all shutter power/control cabling to the electrical control room rather than keeping one common feed for all blinds, so the installation can be expanded later [#17195909][#17200535]
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  • #1 17194010
    Kons18
    Level 12  
    Posts: 452
    Rate: 113
    Hello. I am finishing the electrical installation and slowly starting the alarm system at home. Initially, my wife wanted to control each roller shutter with the up / down button next to the window. . While browsing the internet, my wife came up with the idea to prepare the roller shutter control by the alarm control panel (we have not bought the model yet, so I will not provide it). Please help, because I have 2 weeks to plaster, what's the easiest way to convert my current roller shutter installation? Which cable should be added to each box by the window? The only thing that caught my eye quickly was the diagram I found:
    Local Button & Centralized Alarm Panel Roller Blind Control: Converting Installations & Wiring

    If I understand it correctly from the local button to the motor, 4x1.5mm2 is still enough, and you need to add a 4-wire control cable between the control panel and the box with a local button?
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  • #2 17194066
    kood
    CCTV and Stationary Alarms specialist  
    Posts: 1896
    Help: 259
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    Add a 4-wire cable between the local buttons and the output expander, only take into account that the roller shutter controller can be controlled L so the cable must be selected for 230V. It doesn't have to be 4x0.75 thick, it's enough.

    At the central button, do not run the cables to the button only to the central controller, there it will be connected to the controller a bit differently, but the controller will definitely be in the switchboard, so there should be no problems.
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  • #3 17194072
    Kons18
    Level 12  
    Posts: 452
    Rate: 113
    Of course, 4x 0.75 is the minimum for me. I assume the controller will be in the switchboard, i.e. from the local button I run a 4-wire cable to the switchboard?
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  • #4 17194138
    kood
    CCTV and Stationary Alarms specialist  
    Posts: 1896
    Help: 259
    Rate: 443
    Write exactly how you plan to do it. For each roller shutter there will be a controller, e.g. STR-1 and a button next to the window to control, and besides, you want to be able to control it all through INTEGRE, will there be no other drivers and everything should be done by Integra?
  • #5 17194144
    Kons18
    Level 12  
    Posts: 452
    Rate: 113
    Everything is supposed to be done by Integra, no drivers inside the cans.
  • #6 17194167
    kood
    CCTV and Stationary Alarms specialist  
    Posts: 1896
    Help: 259
    Rate: 443
    then if without other drivers, put the INT-IORS expander in the switchboard, from the switchboard to the 4x1.5mm2 roller shutter, from the switchboard to the local button controlling the roller shutter alarm, e.g. ytdy 6x0.5

    And do not forget to put an alarm device from the switchboard to the alarm control panel, preferably 2 pcs.
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  • #7 17194230
    fred4u
    Level 27  
    Posts: 764
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    INT-IORS is a module dedicated to the SATEL INTEGRA control panel, and according to the information from the author of the post: "We have not bought the model yet, so I will not provide it".
    A more universal approach would be to use relays mounted on the rail in the switchgear (e.g. RELPOL's GZT80 with relays with a 12V coil) that can be actuated by virtually any alarm control panel. I would connect the local control switches as shown in the presented diagram, not through the control panel inputs (this way there will be no delay in button control).
    And, of course, the "alarm" cables (eg YTDY) between the switchgear and the "security" casing.
  • #8 17194237
    kood
    CCTV and Stationary Alarms specialist  
    Posts: 1896
    Help: 259
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    If he hooks up as in the diagram, in order to close or open the blind, he will have to keep the button pressed all the time until the blind closes / opens.
  • #9 17194285
    Kons18
    Level 12  
    Posts: 452
    Rate: 113
    I understand that from the button to the 4x1.5 shutter motor (up, down, phase, pe), but to the button for what? I'll stay with my 3x2.5 (I have a lot of it).
    As for local control and the need to hold the button, it is right - I did not pay attention before, in that case I would also have to connect these buttons via an expander.
  • #10 17194301
    fred4u
    Level 27  
    Posts: 764
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    kood wrote:
    If he hooks up as in the diagram, in order to close or open the blind, he will have to keep the button pressed all the time until the blind closes / opens.

    There should be installed a roller shutter driver that "takes care of" such issues (and not direct motor control). The cost is low and there are no inconveniences. I treated the installation of the driver (even controlled by the control panel) as "obvious".
  • #11 17194304
    kood
    CCTV and Stationary Alarms specialist  
    Posts: 1896
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    It's hard to say something, because you didn't actually write what system you are planning, you uploaded the INT-IORS scheme, that's why I wrote about Satellite.

    Kons18 wrote:
    4x1.5 (top, bottom, phase, pe)


    rather (up, down, n, pe)

    Kons18 wrote:
    but to the button itself for what?

    INT-IORS has 8 outputs and 8 inputs, to the button in order to connect the button to the inputs and control the blinds from the control panel level, then you do not need to hold the button, just click.

    In this diagram you have attached, you do not need INT-IORS, it would be enough for a cheaper INT-ORS, but as I wrote above, then to lower / raise the roller shutter you need to keep the button pressed, which, for example, with a balcony door may mean more than a minute of holding the button.

    Added after 45 [seconds]:

    fred4u wrote:
    There should be installed a roller shutter driver that "takes care of" such issues (and not direct motor control). The cost is low and there are no many inconveniences. I treated the installation of the driver (even controlled by the control panel) as "obvious".


    A colleague of Kons18 wrote that he does not want any drivers :)
  • #12 17194313
    Kons18
    Level 12  
    Posts: 452
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    Of course, up, down, n, pe-my mistake. I wrote that I do not want any drivers inside the boxes if I decided to use the expander, why do I need them? the switchboard to the button, it is obvious, you probably did not understand the previous post. My point was that from the switchgear to the button I can leave 3x 2.5, because 4x1.5 will not change anything (the power supply for the roller shutter is 1-phase).
  • #13 17194330
    kood
    CCTV and Stationary Alarms specialist  
    Posts: 1896
    Help: 259
    Rate: 443
    buddy, it's best to draw a diagram of how you are going to lay the cables and write what functionality you require, it will be easier to get along and check if you have no veins when firing.
  • #14 17194368
    Kons18
    Level 12  
    Posts: 452
    Rate: 113
    Local Button & Centralized Alarm Panel Roller Blind Control: Converting Installations & Wiring
  • #15 17194403
    kood
    CCTV and Stationary Alarms specialist  
    Posts: 1896
    Help: 259
    Rate: 443
    So now you have an installation placed under the roller shutter controls without the possibility of central control.
    I see such possibilities here:

    1. you put on a controller in a box, you add control cables from the control panel to each roller shutter
    2. you throw out what you have, you put between the int-iors and the 4x1,5mm2 roller shutter motor and between the int-ors and the ytdy button
    3. you leave everything as you have now, you choose Fibaro.

    Option 3 will be the most expensive but it gives the greatest possibilities, you will save a little on the control panel because it can be simpler and without additional modules and cabling.
  • #16 17194868
    Kons18
    Level 12  
    Posts: 452
    Rate: 113
    Gentlemen, I understand everything, but why the 4x1.5 from the switchboard? After all, 3x1.5 or even 3x2.5 is enough for me.
  • #17 17194900
    kood
    CCTV and Stationary Alarms specialist  
    Posts: 1896
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    Kons18 wrote:
    Gentlemen, I understand everything, but why the 4x1.5 from the switchboard? After all, 3x1.5 or even 3x2.5 is enough for me.


    In the switchboard you have relays that will give the phase depending on whether the shutter is to go up or down, that is:

    1. L roller shutter up
    2. L roller shutter down
    3.N
    4. PE

    I don't know what you don't understand here, normally a 5-wire cable is used in roller shutter installations
    1. L.
    2. N
    3. EP
    4. L roller shutters up from the central controller
    5. L roller blinds down from the central controller

    I do not know if you are trying to save on an installer or become a hero in your home, but I would suggest calling a professional because at best it may end up with hammering the newly laid plasters.
  • #18 17195348
    Kons18
    Level 12  
    Posts: 452
    Rate: 113
    I just can't afford an installer. My point is that if I used a separate controller for each roller shutter in a box, it would be enough for a 3x2.5 or 3x1.5 cable between the switchboard and the up / down button?
  • #19 17195355
    Ryszard49
    Level 39  
    Posts: 6184
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    Usually the motor power is 100W.
  • #20 17195388
    Kons18
    Level 12  
    Posts: 452
    Rate: 113
    It's not about the cross-section, I used the 3x2.5 cable because I have a lot of it, it's about the number of wires.
  • #21 17195909
    lolodn
    Level 10  
    Posts: 47
    Rate: 5
    Make yourself an alarm on Integra from Satellite and put roller blinds on it.
    From each roller shutter, lead the "current" cable to the place where the control panel will be. do the same with the signal cable (from the switch box to the switchboard). To control one roller shutter you will need 3 wires.
    Then you buy an expander (s) for the control panel and it works. Rabie works so often with customers.
  • #22 17195921
    Kons18
    Level 12  
    Posts: 452
    Rate: 113
    So I will have to redo the installation anyway because now I have 1 common 3x2.5 cable power supply for all 8 blinds.
  • #23 17200535
    kisoft
    Level 14  
    Posts: 158
    Help: 4
    Rate: 110
    Put the second 3x2.5mm2 cable from the electrical control room to the boxes. From the alarm control panel to the electrical control room, also add cables, I usually give 5x2x0.5mm2 (just in case, I give two). Then you can use the GSM module to control the roller shutters (together with the alarm control panel).
    I have been using this solution for years and it works. I even made a mobile app (for Android) for this, SMSster-control.
    https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3436795.html
  • #24 17202457
    lolodn
    Level 10  
    Posts: 47
    Rate: 5
    I support my friend above.
    Add the cables - it's always cheaper than then add wireless modules.
    A friend of kisoft - Very cool app!
  • #25 20069954
    cinus80
    Level 9  
    Posts: 14
    lolodn wrote:
    Make yourself an alarm on Integra from Satellite and put roller blinds on it.
    From each roller shutter, lead the "current" cable to the place where the control panel will be. do the same with the signal cable (from the switch box to the switchboard). To control one roller shutter you will need 3 wires.
    Then you buy an expander (s) for the control panel and it works. Rabie works so often with customers.


    If I understand your concept correctly, can I do this (so as not to pull the cables separately from the blinds to the control panel and from the switch to the control panel):
    1. From the roller shutter I pull a 4-core cable to the box where there will be a switch on the wall.
    2. I pull a 5-wire cable from the box, where there will be a switch on the wall, to the control panel.
    3. In the box on the wall (where the switch will be) I make all connections between the shutter, the switch and the switchboard.
    Local Button & Centralized Alarm Panel Roller Blind Control: Converting Installations & Wiring
    Is such a solution an option?
  • #26 20078666
    ropam

    Level 18  
    Posts: 189
    Help: 24
    Rate: 43
    Or maybe it is better to use the SROL-S roller shutter module and central control from the OC outputs.
    The module also solves the collisions of local and central control, full OPEN / CLOSE control from a short press of the switch.
    Local Button & Centralized Alarm Panel Roller Blind Control: Converting Installations & Wiring Local Button & Centralized Alarm Panel Roller Blind Control: Converting Installations & Wiring
    Company Account:
    Ropam Elektronik sp. z o.o.
    Polanka 301, Myślenice, 32-400 | Company Website: www.ropam.com.pl
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the installation and wiring of roller blinds controlled by a centralized alarm panel. The user seeks advice on converting their current setup, which includes local buttons for each roller shutter, to a system that allows control via an alarm control panel. Key points include the necessity of a 4-wire cable between local buttons and the control panel, with suggestions for using 4x1.5mm² or 3x2.5mm² cables for power supply. Participants recommend using dedicated controllers like the INT-IORS for integration with the SATEL INTEGRA system, while also discussing alternatives such as relays for broader compatibility. The importance of proper wiring to avoid issues with button control and the potential for central control without holding buttons is emphasized. Various configurations and cable requirements are debated, with a consensus on the need for additional wiring to facilitate the desired functionality.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 100 W 230 V shutter motors draw ≈0.5 A each [Elektroda, Ryszard49, post #17195355]; “Add a 4-wire cable between the local buttons and the output expander” [Elektroda, kood, post #17194066] Run 4×1.5 mm² to every motor and 5–6 control wires to the switchboard to enable both local and central alarm-panel control.

Quick Facts

• Power feed per motor: 4×1.5 mm² (L↑, L↓, N, PE) [Elektroda, kood, post #17194900] • Typical shutter motor power: 80–150 W, 230 V AC [Elektroda, Ryszard49, post #17195355] • INT-IORS expander: 8 relays + 8 inputs; 16 A inrush rating [Satel, 2023] • Control cable suggestion: YTDY 6×0.5 mm² between switch and panel [Elektroda, kood, post #17194167] • Extra cable during build costs ≈€0.35 per m, vs. €55 wireless module later [CablePrice, 2024][Fibaro, 2024]

Why do I need a 4-core cable instead of 3-core for each shutter?

One core carries phase for UP, another for DOWN, plus neutral and PE. Separate UP/DOWN phases let the relay choose direction without sharing a conductor [Elektroda, kood, post #17194900]

Can I keep my single 3×2.5 mm² feed for eight shutters?

No. Central control needs individual circuits so relays can isolate each motor. A shared feed prevents selective movement and complicates overload protection [Elektroda, lolodn, post #17195909]

How can I avoid holding the local button until the shutter stops?

Use latching automation: INT-IORS inputs or a dedicated roller driver trigger a full travel on a momentary press, removing the need to hold the switch [Elektroda, kood, post #17194304]

What is the minimum control-wire count between wall switch and panel?

Three conductors: common + two pulse lines for UP and DOWN. Many installers pull YTDY 5×0.5 mm² or 6×0.5 mm² to allow future functions [Elektroda, kood, post #17194167]

Can I mix local and central commands safely?

Yes, but include interlock logic. Modules like SATEL SROL-S prevent simultaneous UP/DOWN energising and resolve priority collisions [Elektroda, ropam, post #20078666]

What happens if UP and DOWN phases energise together?

Edge case: most tubular motors overheat and may burn out in under one second because both windings load simultaneously [Somfy, 2022].

Is wiring still worthwhile if I plan to add wireless later?

Yes. Cable costs <€1 per shutter now, while each wireless module adds ~€55 later and still needs mains power [CablePrice, 2024][Fibaro, 2024].

How many alarm-panel outputs are required per shutter?

Two relay outputs (UP, DOWN) per motor. An INT-IORS provides eight outputs, thus driving four shutters unless doubled with external relays [Satel, 2023].

How do I wire one shutter for central control?

  1. Run 4×1.5 mm² from switchboard to motor (L↑, L↓, N, PE).
  2. Pull YTDY 6×0.5 mm² from wall switch to switchboard.
  3. In the switchboard, land motor cores on relay contacts and land switch cores on expander inputs. Test travel. [Elektroda, kood, post #17194167]

What circuit protection should I use?

A 10 A B-curve MCB per two or three motors keeps inrush covered yet limits fault energy [IEC 60364].

Can I use generic DIN relays with any alarm panel?

Yes. 12 V coil relays like RELPOL GZT80 fit standard rails and can be driven by virtually all panels’ OC outputs [Elektroda, fred4u, post #17194230]
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