Local Button & Centralized Alarm Panel Roller Blind Control: Converting Installations & Wiring

Question

Hello. I am finishing the electrical installation and slowly starting the alarm system at home. Initially, my wife wanted to control each roller shutter with the up / down button next to the window. . While browsing the internet, my wife came up with the idea to prepare the roller shutter...

kood · Answer

Add a 4-wire cable between the local buttons and the output expander, only take into account that the roller shutter controller can be controlled L so the cable must be selected for 230V. It doesn't have to be 4x0.75 thick, it's enough.

At the central button, do not run the cables to the button only to the central controller, there it will be connected to the controller a bit differently, but the controller will definitely be in the switchboard, so there should be no problems.

Kons18 · Answer

Of course, 4x 0.75 is the minimum for me. I assume the controller will be in the switchboard, i.e. from the local button I run a 4-wire cable to the switchboard?

kood · Answer

Write exactly how you plan to do it. For each roller shutter there will be a controller, e.g. STR-1 and a button next to the window to control, and besides, you want to be able to control it all through INTEGRE, will there be no other drivers and everything should be done by Integra?

Kons18 · Answer

Everything is supposed to be done by Integra, no drivers inside the cans.

kood · Answer

then if without other drivers, put the INT-IORS expander in the switchboard, from the switchboard to the 4x1.5mm2 roller shutter, from the switchboard to the local button controlling the roller shutter alarm, e.g. ytdy 6x0.5

And do not forget to put an alarm device from the switchboard to the alarm control panel, preferably 2 pcs.

fred4u · Answer

INT-IORS is a module dedicated to the SATEL INTEGRA control panel, and according to the information from the author of the post: "We have not bought the model yet, so I will not provide it".
A more universal approach would be to use relays mounted on the rail in the switchgear (e.g. RELPOL's GZT80 with relays with a 12V coil) that can be actuated by virtually any alarm control panel. I would connect the local control switches as shown in the presented diagram, not through the control panel inputs (this way there will be no delay in button control).
And, of course, the "alarm" cables (eg YTDY) between the switchgear and the "security" casing.

kood · Answer

If he hooks up as in the diagram, in order to close or open the blind, he will have to keep the button pressed all the time until the blind closes / opens.

Kons18 · Answer

I understand that from the button to the 4x1.5 shutter motor (up, down, phase, pe), but to the button for what? I'll stay with my 3x2.5 (I have a lot of it).
As for local control and the need to hold the button, it is right - I did not pay attention before, in that case I would also have to connect these buttons via an expander.

fred4u · Answer

There should be installed a roller shutter driver that "takes care of" such issues (and not direct motor control). The cost is low and there are no many inconveniences. I treated the installation of the driver (even controlled by the control panel) as "obvious".

kood · Answer

It's hard to say something, because you didn't actually write what system you are planning, you uploaded the INT-IORS scheme, that's why I wrote about Satellite.

Kons18 wrote:
4x1.5 (top, bottom, phase, pe)

rather (up, down, n, pe)

Kons18 wrote:
but to the button itself for what?

INT-IORS has 8 outputs and 8 inputs, to the button in order to connect the button to the inputs and control the blinds from the control panel level, then you do not need to hold the button, just click.

In this diagram you have attached, you do not need INT-IORS, it would be enough for a cheaper INT-ORS, but as I wrote above, then to lower / raise the roller shutter you need to keep the button pressed, which, for example, with a balcony door may mean more than a minute of holding the button.

Added after 45 [seconds]:

fred4u wrote:
There should be installed a roller shutter driver that "takes care of" such issues (and not direct motor control). The cost is low and there are no many inconveniences. I treated the installation of the driver (even controlled by the control panel) as "obvious".

A colleague of Kons18 wrote that he does not want any drivers

Kons18 · Answer

Of course, up, down, n, pe-my mistake. I wrote that I do not want any drivers inside the boxes if I decided to use the expander, why do I need them? the switchboard to the button, it is obvious, you probably did not understand the previous post. My point was that from the switchgear to the button I can leave 3x 2.5, because 4x1.5 will not change anything (the power supply for the roller shutter is 1-phase).

kood · Answer

buddy, it's best to draw a diagram of how you are going to lay the cables and write what functionality you require, it will be easier to get along and check if you have no veins when firing.

kood · Answer

So now you have an installation placed under the roller shutter controls without the possibility of central control.
I see such possibilities here:

1. you put on a controller in a box, you add control cables from the control panel to each roller shutter
2. you throw out what you have, you put between the int-iors and the 4x1,5mm2 roller shutter motor and between the int-ors and the ytdy button
3. you leave everything as you have now, you choose Fibaro.

Option 3 will be the most expensive but it gives the greatest possibilities, you will save a little on the control panel because it can be simpler and without additional modules and cabling.

Kons18 · Answer

Gentlemen, I understand everything, but why the 4x1.5 from the switchboard? After all, 3x1.5 or even 3x2.5 is enough for me.

kood · Answer

In the switchboard you have relays that will give the phase depending on whether the shutter is to go up or down, that is: 1. L roller shutter up 2. L roller shutter down 3.N 4. PE I don't know what you don't understand here, normally a 5-wire cable is used in roller shutter installations 1. L. 2. N 3. EP 4. L roller shutters up from the central controller 5. L roller blinds down from the central controller I do not know if you are trying to save on an installer or become a hero in your home, but I would suggest calling a professional because at best it may end up with hammering the newly laid plasters.

Kons18 · Answer

I just can't afford an installer. My point is that if I used a separate controller for each roller shutter in a box, it would be enough for a 3x2.5 or 3x1.5 cable between the switchboard and the up / down button?

Ryszard49 · Answer

Usually the motor power is 100W.

Kons18 · Answer

It's not about the cross-section, I used the 3x2.5 cable because I have a lot of it, it's about the number of wires.

lolodn · Answer

Make yourself an alarm on Integra from Satellite and put roller blinds on it.
From each roller shutter, lead the "current" cable to the place where the control panel will be. do the same with the signal cable (from the switch box to the switchboard). To control one roller shutter you will need 3 wires.
Then you buy an expander (s) for the control panel and it works. Rabie works so often with customers.

Kons18 · Answer

So I will have to redo the installation anyway because now I have 1 common 3x2.5 cable power supply for all 8 blinds.

kisoft · Answer

Put the second 3x2.5mm2 cable from the electrical control room to the boxes. From the alarm control panel to the electrical control room, also add cables, I usually give 5x2x0.5mm2 (just in case, I give two). Then you can use the GSM module to control the roller shutters (together with the alarm control panel).
I have been using this solution for years and it works. I even made a mobile app (for Android) for this, SMSster-control.
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3436795.html

lolodn · Answer

I support my friend above. Add the cables - it's always cheaper than then add wireless modules. A friend of kisoft - Very cool app!

cinus80 · Answer

If I understand your concept correctly, can I do this (so as not to pull the cables separately from the blinds to the control panel and from the switch to the control panel): 1. From the roller shutter I pull a 4-core cable to the box where there will be a switch on the wall. 2. I pull a 5-wire cable from the box, where there will be a switch on the wall, to the control panel. 3. In the box on the wall (where the switch will be) I make all connections between the shutter, the switch and the switchboard. Is such a solution an option?

ropam · Answer

Or maybe it is better to use the SROL-S roller shutter module and central control from the OC outputs.
The module also solves the collisions of local and central control, full OPEN / CLOSE control from a short press of the switch.

Local Button & Centralized Alarm Panel Roller Blind Control: Converting Installations & Wiring

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