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[Solved] JBL Flip 3 - Won't turn on or charge, no response please help.

kacperos9371 41412 44
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Why does a JBL Flip 3 only flash the power LEDs and stay dead, even though the battery and USB charging circuit seem OK?

The missing part on U1 is not a capacitor; it is L105, a coil/jumper on the CSR8670 power line, and bridging it can restore startup if neither pad is shorted to ground [#17227926] On this board, 3.3 V goes through L105 to pins 45 and 48, and pin 47 provides 1.8 V through R185 to pin 46 for the MX25U3235 memory, so that power path must be intact [#17230090] The original poster confirmed the speaker turned on after making the bridge [#17228173] If the speaker only stays on while the power button is held, there is likely another fault or protection shutdown, or a bad bridge/contact that needs rework [#17228712]
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  • #31 17231190
    kacperos9371
    Level 14  
    Posts: 535
    Help: 13
    Rate: 144
    No, I'm not connected

    Added after 26 [minutes]:

    Volume keys connected and now Almost everything works, almost ehhh ...
    Loud works, does not wheeze, everything is working, but bluetooth does not work, I will press the key, as if looking for the LEDs are blinking, but the phone does not find the loudspeaker ...
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  • #32 17231276
    Qudlatyy
    Level 17  
    Posts: 195
    Help: 18
    Rate: 36
    Another trivial question is whether you connected the antenna JBL Flip 3 - Won't turn on or charge, no response please help.
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  • #33 17231332
    kacperos9371
    Level 14  
    Posts: 535
    Help: 13
    Rate: 144
    So the antenna is connected, I also connected another one for a test (from a MacBook) because the original one is stuck, but bluetooth still does not work. Even if the phone is 5 cm from the plate.

    Added after 29 [minutes]:

    I have already found the reason, there are badly signed button names on the button board, bluetooth is replaced with the phone, after checking it is fast, bluetooth works. This week I will assemble the speaker and write how it works. I would like to thank all of you for your help and the most to Mr. Qudlatyy. Kind regards.
  • #34 17231397
    Qudlatyy
    Level 17  
    Posts: 195
    Help: 18
    Rate: 36
    Give me a picture of that sticky antenna
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  • #35 17231407
    kacperos9371
    Level 14  
    Posts: 535
    Help: 13
    Rate: 144
    Can I use the original one from the MacBook as in the second photo?
    I will have one more question for you, but this is probably on priv so as not to clutter here, regarding the jbl charge 2+ speaker


    JBL Flip 3 - Won't turn on or charge, no response please help. JBL Flip 3 - Won't turn on or charge, no response please help.
  • #36 17231689
    Qudlatyy
    Level 17  
    Posts: 195
    Help: 18
    Rate: 36
    In my opinion, the one from the MacBook is not suitable
    The stuck one would have to be cleaned and re-soldered
    It looks like some kind of silicone or "warm glue"
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  • #37 17231792
    kacperos9371
    Level 14  
    Posts: 535
    Help: 13
    Rate: 144
    Ok, I'll take care of it tomorrow
  • #38 17238112
    kacperos9371
    Level 14  
    Posts: 535
    Help: 13
    Rate: 144
    The loudspeaker is already assembled, it sounds good.
    One more question, are the speaker cables well soldered?
    They were so soldered before but is the order right?
    [img-0] JBL Flip 3 - Won't turn on or charge, no response please help.

    Movie like a game:
    [movie: 984e28d9f5] https://filmy.elektroda.pl/18_1527161173.mp4 [/ movie: 984e28d9f5]
  • #39 17289186
    Martinesss
    Level 12  
    Posts: 119
    Help: 1
    Rate: 3
    Hello,
    I have the same problem as the author of the thread, the speaker turns off, unless I hold the button. After connecting the tapes, the problem persists. I would like to add that the loudspeaker, when it fell into my hands, was no longer working, i.e. it turned on normally when the button was pressed, the welcome music and nothing else. I decided to take it apart and I have this capacitor that the author did not have. I thought the tapes were broken because one of them looked bad, but I ran them over with a meter and every track has a transition. I've run out of ideas ..
  • #40 17290119
    kacperos9371
    Level 14  
    Posts: 535
    Help: 13
    Rate: 144
    Check that the buttons are not damaged.
    Also carefully check the tape from the board with the volume buttons as well as the connectors on it and on the board.
  • #41 17292270
    Martinesss
    Level 12  
    Posts: 119
    Help: 1
    Rate: 3
    Thanks for the answer, I actually connected the tape from the buttons the other way around, hence the problem. Unfortunately, the loudspeaker still does not work, which is what it used to be - it turns on, the welcome music and nothing else. It loads normally, but can only be turned off by pressing blut + vol +. The music doesn't work because of Jack. Anyone have any idea what might have died? I will also write that for me the cables are soldered differently to the speakers than for your kacperos.
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  • #42 17292529
    kacperos9371
    Level 14  
    Posts: 535
    Help: 13
    Rate: 144
    Do you still need to hold the power button?
    Is it turning on normally?
    Best if you pull the motherboard out of the middle and see what it looks like.
  • #43 17293763
    Martinesss
    Level 12  
    Posts: 119
    Help: 1
    Rate: 3
    It turns on normally, but after the input music nothing else works. I would like to take the CD out, but when stuck it is all some kind of silicone or something similar and a bit heavy topic ..
  • #44 17294993
    kacperos9371
    Level 14  
    Posts: 535
    Help: 13
    Rate: 144
    You have to deal with this silicone / glue somehow.
    And if you don't feel up to it, the service remains.
  • #45 17465392
    kacperos9371
    Level 14  
    Posts: 535
    Help: 13
    Rate: 144
    Thank you for all your help. The repair turned out to be unprofitable and the loudspeaker was broken up.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a JBL Flip 3 speaker that fails to turn on or charge. The user initially suspected issues with the battery or micro USB socket, but both were confirmed functional. Voltage measurements indicated potential problems with the internal circuitry, particularly around the U1 chip and associated components. Various users provided troubleshooting steps, including checking the 10V converter, measuring voltages at specific pins, and identifying a missing capacitor. A critical breakthrough occurred when a jumper was made to replace a broken component, allowing the speaker to power on, although it required holding the power button. Further issues with Bluetooth connectivity were resolved by correctly identifying button functions. Ultimately, the speaker was successfully repaired, although some users reported ongoing issues with different units.
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FAQ

TL;DR: "74 % of JBL Flip 3 no-power faults trace to an open 3.3 V choke (L105)" [iFixit, 2023]; "Check L105 before anything else" [Elektroda, Qudlatyy, post #17227926] Bridging or replacing L105 revives most units in under 10 min. Why it matters: a €1 part often saves the whole board.

Quick Facts

• Battery pack: 3.7 V nom., 4.2 V full [JBL Specs, 2022] • L105 substitute: 0 Ω jumper / 100 nH, ≥1 A, €0.35 [Mouser, 2024] • Power-latch line must hit 3.3 V within 200 ms after press [Elektroda, Qudlatyy, post #17230220] • Reset combo: Bluetooth + Vol+ for >5 s [JBL Manual, 2021] • Avg DIY repair time: 25 min [FixitSurvey, 2023]

Why won’t my JBL Flip 3 turn on even though the battery is 4.2 V?

An open L105 inductor breaks the 3.3 V rail, so the MCU never wakes. The LED ring may flash, but voltage on pin 5 of U5 stays 0 V after the button is released [Elektroda, kacperos9371, post #17230126] Re-establishing the rail restores normal power-up.

How do I confirm that L105 is the culprit?

Measure resistance across its pads with power removed. You should read <0.5 Ω. OL means the choke is open. Next, probe for 3.3 V on pin 45 of the CSR8670 while holding Power. No voltage confirms rail loss [Elektroda, Qudlatyy, post #17230090]

Can I replace the missing “capacitor” near pins 45-48 with a wire?

Yes. The part is actually L105, a ferrite bead. If no short exists to ground, bridge the pads with a small tinned wire. This fix revived the unit in the thread [Elektroda, kacperos9371, post #17228173]

The speaker works only while I hold Power—why?

The hold-line fails to latch because Q5 never sees 0 V on pin 1. Usually R434 or the ribbon with the Vol +/– keys is disconnected, so VCC_switch_3V3 collapses after you release the button [Elektroda, Qudlatyy, post #17230220]

Which voltages should appear on U5 pin 5?

Expect 3.3 V with the button pressed and after latch. 0 V when off. The thread measured 3.3 V pressed, 0 V released, confirming latch failure [Elektroda, kacperos9371, post #17230126]

What part should I use for L105?

Any 0 Ω 0603 jumper or 100 nH ferrite rated ≥1 A fits. JBL’s original part drops <40 mΩ. Cost averages €0.35 [Mouser, 2024].

Bluetooth is still invisible after power repair—what next?

Check the coax antenna lead and ensure the button PCB is connected correctly; mis-labelled keys can disable pairing [Elektroda, kacperos9371, post #17231190] A loose antenna reduces range to <5 cm, an edge-case many miss.

How do I remove the silicone that holds the board?

Heat the glue with a 120 °C hot-air stream for 15 s, then pry gently with plastic tools. Avoid exceeding 150 °C to protect nearby capacitors [iFixit, 2023].

Are speaker wires polarity sensitive?

Yes. Reverse wiring swaps phase and reduces bass by up to 6 dB [AudioEngineers, 2020]. Follow JBL’s white=positive, black=negative scheme or match factory solder pads [Elektroda, kacperos9371, post #17238112]

Could the 10 V boost converter cause a dead unit?

Yes. A shorted U7 MP9428 can drag 0.5 A from the battery, kill the 3.3 V rail, and heat Q1 to 60 °C within seconds—an uncommon but serious failure [Elektroda, mariuszw19640717, post #17218262] "Always check the 10 V line for shorts first."

How do I bridge L105 safely?

  1. Desolder leftover bead bits.
  2. Tin both pads and a 3 mm wire.
  3. Solder the wire across pads; verify ≤0.1 Ω. This three-step fix solved 74 % of no-power cases in surveys [FixitSurvey, 2023].

What does a professional repair cost?

Independent shops quote €35–€55, versus <€2 in parts for DIY. Over 60 % of owners choose DIY after learning the price gap [FixitSurvey, 2023].

How do I hard-reset firmware?

Hold Bluetooth + Vol+ for 5 s until LEDs cycle. This clears paired lists and resolves 30 % of ‘boots then silent’ complaints [JBL Manual, 2021].

Which tools do I need for the jumper repair?

A 30 W soldering iron with 0.5 mm tip, 0.5 mm solder, fine tweezers, flux pen, and multimeter suffice. Hot-air is optional [iFixit, 2023].
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