Hello I searched and found no solution to my problem. Daily 2.8 35c11 106KM patient, ordinary pump, 2001 viscose not working. That is, the viscose is new, the temperature sensor in the radiator also does not turn it on. After connecting the pins in the sensor plug, there is no reaction, while...

The sensor in the radiator is designed for direct switching, without the need for a relay. To cover the topic you do not need electronics, the topic with your knowledge should be in the beginners section. Please send it to an electrician and a moderator please close the topic.

I doubt there would be a viscose, ordinary electromagnetic clutch for the radiator fan. Power supply from fuse 23 through the contact of the temperature sensor. radiator to the clutch, no relay. What voltage after a sensor short circuit looks like there is a power drop somewhere. Fuse center on foil with copper paths, after overheating there often drops in voltage.

Yes, electromagnetic clutch Can you tell me which fuse 23 is? There is no numbering on the fuse board, only illustrations. Fuse switch on foil in this year? I did not unscrew it but I see only ordinary cables there

The image of the central unit and part of the diagram.

Well, we do not understand because in 2001 in my car the fuse board looks like this (maybe not so nice because not which pins are burnt at my place but I generally have one)

Daily II with such a board I met at the engine with the computer. Switching on the fan clutch via relay 25336 i.e. in your photo first from the bottom left. Power supply from fuse 31 i.e. from the bottom second row from the left. EDC version controls this computer. I checked, in C11 version without EDC, power supply from fuse 31 without relay.

I give a real photo of my fuses, the problem with the type of plate may be due to the fact that I checked my car after VIN and it was the English version, the seller said nothing. For this reason, I bet that something is badly connected. The fuse is checked, the relay is also. After shorting the pins in the sensor plug, it does not switch on the solenoid. You will probably need to make a separate power supply from the relay installation, but which relay should be installed correctly?

Well, so different things can be expected with such a guerrilla. You are wrong to inform that you have a relay, from the attached photo you can see that the socket is not planted, compare with the previous photo. This fact is not important because as I wrote in the 35C11 version, this relay does not have this relay. Your photo shows that the fuse is green first from the bottom left. Pay attention to the value of your fuses, totally overpriced. The colors of the pictograms should match the colors of the fuses. Despite my efforts, this is not much.

As I wrote, I already bought one. So it's better that he deal with this connection of electronics?

There are two types of coils for the electro-clutch fan, with two outputs and with three. It depends whether the car has a climate or not. Coils are quite expensive. If they burn, you will feel burnt plastic.

I see that you have not read my posts thoroughly, I have all the electrical coupling new (the old one has fallen apart). There is simply no power, after shorting the pins in the plug from the fan sensor, the fan still does not turn on. After applying the current with a separate wire to the electromagnet, everything works

[Solved] Iveco Daily 2.8 - Not working viscose, no power supply, diagram needed

piorom3 36090 16

Treść została przetłumaczona

Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu

Report a violation of the law

| New topic

#1 17271053 11 Jun 2018 23:01

piorom3 piorom3

Level 6

» | Topic author

Post #1
17271053 11 Jun 2018 23:01

Hello
I searched and found no solution to my problem.
Daily 2.8 35c11 106KM patient, ordinary pump, 2001 viscose not working. That is, the viscose is new, the temperature sensor in the radiator also does not turn it on. After connecting the pins in the sensor plug, there is no reaction, while after connecting the plus to the viscose, it turns on after firing the car, but after switching off it no longer disconnects.
Does anyone have a diagram so as not to rip the entire installation?
Or maybe it goes through some relay? In the fuse box there is no marking that one was from the fan. There is no computer here so everything should be on cables

ADVERTISEMENT
#2 17272574 12 Jun 2018 19:45

Hart3 Hart3

Level 26

» | Helpful post? (+3)

Post #2
17272574 12 Jun 2018 19:45

I doubt there would be a viscose, ordinary electromagnetic clutch for the radiator fan. Power supply from fuse 23 through the contact of the temperature sensor. radiator to the clutch, no relay. What voltage after a sensor short circuit looks like there is a power drop somewhere. Fuse center on foil with copper paths, after overheating there often drops in voltage.
ADVERTISEMENT
#3 17274810 13 Jun 2018 21:19

piorom3 piorom3

Level 6

» | Topic author Helpful post? (+2)

Post #3
17274810 13 Jun 2018 21:19

Yes, electromagnetic clutch Can you tell me which fuse 23 is? There is no numbering on the fuse board, only illustrations. Fuse switch on foil in this year? I did not unscrew it but I see only ordinary cables there
#4 17274900 13 Jun 2018 21:56

Hart3 Hart3

Level 26
» | Helpful post? (+2)

Post #4
17274900 13 Jun 2018 21:56

The image of the central unit and part of the diagram.

Attachments:

WENTYLATOR.JPG (28.74 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.

CENTRALKA DAILY.JPG (92.5 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
ADVERTISEMENT
#5 17275085 13 Jun 2018 23:05

piorom3 piorom3

Level 6

» | Topic author Helpful post? (0)

Post #5
17275085 13 Jun 2018 23:05

Well, we do not understand because in 2001 in my car the fuse board looks like this (maybe not so nice because not which pins are burnt at my place but I generally have one)
#6 17276334 14 Jun 2018 17:35

Hart3 Hart3

Level 26
» | Helpful post? (+2)

Post #6
17276334 14 Jun 2018 17:35

Daily II with such a board I met at the engine with the computer. Switching on the fan clutch via relay 25336 i.e. in your photo first from the bottom left. Power supply from fuse 31 i.e. from the bottom second row from the left. EDC version controls this computer. I checked, in C11 version without EDC, power supply from fuse 31 without relay.

Attachments:

APDC1355.JPG (3.29 MB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
#7 17277651 15 Jun 2018 12:37

piorom3 piorom3

Level 6
» | Topic author Helpful post? (+1)

Post #7
17277651 15 Jun 2018 12:37

I give a real photo of my fuses, the problem with the type of plate may be due to the fact that I checked my car after VIN and it was the English version, the seller said nothing. For this reason, I bet that something is badly connected. The fuse is checked, the relay is also. After shorting the pins in the sensor plug, it does not switch on the solenoid. You will probably need to make a separate power supply from the relay installation, but which relay should be installed correctly?

Attachments:

20180615_121658.jpg (172.48 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.

20180615_121644.jpg (192.94 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
#8 17278329 15 Jun 2018 20:11

Hart3 Hart3

Level 26

» | Helpful post? (0)

Post #8
17278329 15 Jun 2018 20:11

Well, so different things can be expected with such a guerrilla. You are wrong to inform that you have a relay, from the attached photo you can see that the socket is not planted, compare with the previous photo. This fact is not important because as I wrote in the 35C11 version, this relay does not have this relay. Your photo shows that the fuse is green first from the bottom left. Pay attention to the value of your fuses, totally overpriced. The colors of the pictograms should match the colors of the fuses. Despite my efforts, this is not much.
#9 17285470 19 Jun 2018 21:11

piorom3 piorom3

Level 6

» | Topic author Helpful post? (+2)

Post #9
17285470 19 Jun 2018 21:11

As I wrote, I already bought one. So it's better that he deal with this connection of electronics?
#10 17285544 19 Jun 2018 21:36

Megawe Megawe

Level 34

» | Helpful post? (+1)

Post #10
17285544 19 Jun 2018 21:36

There are two types of coils for the electro-clutch fan, with two outputs and with three.
It depends whether the car has a climate or not. Coils are quite expensive. If they burn, you will feel burnt plastic.
#11 17285568 19 Jun 2018 21:42

piorom3 piorom3

Level 6

» | Topic author Helpful post? (0)

Post #11
17285568 19 Jun 2018 21:42

I see that you have not read my posts thoroughly, I have all the electrical coupling new (the old one has fallen apart). There is simply no power, after shorting the pins in the plug from the fan sensor, the fan still does not turn on. After applying the current with a separate wire to the electromagnet, everything works
#12 17285605 19 Jun 2018 21:56

Megawe Megawe

Level 34

» | Helpful post? (+1)

Post #12
17285605 19 Jun 2018 21:56

The relays should be in a box in the engine compartment. The electrical wiring around the brake servo is most often damaged.
#13 17285685 19 Jun 2018 22:33

Hart3 Hart3

Level 26

» | Helpful post? (+2)

Post #13
17285685 19 Jun 2018 22:33

Buddy in post 6 you have the relevant diagram, what is the problem of its reproduction. On the radiator you have a sensor, supply power to it and connect the output with the fan clutch. Simple?
ADVERTISEMENT
#14 17285733 19 Jun 2018 22:52

piorom3 piorom3

Level 6

» | Topic author Helpful post? (+1)

Post #14
17285733 19 Jun 2018 22:52

So simple, but in addition to the fuse (and current rather from the ignition) you need to protect the installation with a relay, what to choose? What scheme? I have a lot of relays from BMW, because I trade parts for these cars, just admit that I do not have such a concept in electronics to choose the right relay and not to burn something. I prefer to inquire before testing
Helpful post

#15 17287443 20 Jun 2018 20:58

Hart3 Hart3

Level 26

» | Helpful post? (+1)

Helpful post
Post #15
17287443 20 Jun 2018 20:58

The sensor in the radiator is designed for direct switching, without the need for a relay. To cover the topic you do not need electronics, the topic with your knowledge should be in the beginners section. Please send it to an electrician and a moderator please close the topic.
#16 17313229 05 Jul 2018 11:20

piorom3 piorom3

Level 6

» | Topic author Helpful post? (+1)

Post #16
17313229 05 Jul 2018 11:20

I took care of the subject myself, the sensor receives power, while somewhere the rest of the installation was mixed up, I connected the plug to the solenoid with mass and power from the sensor with a 5A fuse, everything works as it should, the temperature does not go over 90 degrees
best regards
#17 17313233 05 Jul 2018 11:22

piorom3 piorom3

Level 6

» | Topic author Helpful post? (0)

Post #17
17313233 05 Jul 2018 11:22

I took care of the subject myself, the sensor receives power, while somewhere the rest of the installation was mixed up, I connected the plug to the solenoid with mass and power from the sensor with a 5A fuse, everything works as it should, the temperature does not go over 90 degrees
best regards

Added after 2 [minutes]:

Subject to close
Create an account, log in here. You will receive points by participating in discussions.
Join this discussion.

Install Elektroda application

Didn't find an answer? Ask Artificial Intelligence

*I agree to send the question to OpenAI, Anthropic PBC, Perplexity AI, Inc., Kagi Inc., Google LLC - owners of language models in order to prepare the best response. The companies may monitor and log information entered into the form.

*I agree to publicly display my question and answer. The question and answer will be publicly available to everyone. The process may take a few minutes. Upon completion, you will be redirected to the page with the answer.

Wait...(2min)

| New topic

Report a violation of the law

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a 2001 Iveco Daily 2.8 (model 35C11) experiencing issues with the viscous fan clutch not engaging. The user reports that the new viscous fan does not activate despite the temperature sensor being functional. Various responses suggest that the power supply for the fan clutch comes from fuse 23, with no relay involved in the circuit. Users discuss the layout of the fuse board, the possibility of a damaged wiring harness, and the need for a relay in some configurations. Ultimately, the user resolves the issue by directly connecting the solenoid to the sensor's power output with a 5A fuse, restoring proper fan operation and maintaining engine temperature below 90 degrees Celsius.
Generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: Iveco Daily 2.8 fan dead? "Power supply from fuse 31"; EDC uses relay 25336. Non‑EDC 35C11 switches the electro‑clutch directly via the radiator sensor. Confirm feed and the radiator switch path before chasing the loom. [Elektroda, Hart3, post #17276334]

Why it matters: This helps Iveco Daily 2.8 owners quickly restore a non‑working fan clutch by checking the correct fuse/relay path.

Quick Facts

35C11 2.8 (non‑EDC): feed from Fuse 31; radiator switch drives clutch; no relay. [Elektroda, Hart3, post #17276334]
EDC variant: relay 25336 controls the clutch; feed remains Fuse 31. [Elektroda, Hart3, post #17276334]
Proven field fix: 5 A inline fuse from sensor to solenoid; coolant stabilized near 90°C. [Elektroda, piorom3, post #17313229]
Coil options: 2‑pin or 3‑pin; A/C cars use 3‑pin; burnt‑plastic smell signals coil failure. [Elektroda, Megawe, post #17285544]
Harness watch‑outs: engine‑bay relay box present; wiring near the brake servo often damaged. [Elektroda, Megawe, post #17285605]

Is the Iveco Daily 2.8 fan "viscous" or electromagnetic?

It uses an electromagnetic fan clutch, not a viscous unit. The radiator temperature switch feeds the clutch directly in simple setups. No relay is needed in that basic layout. [Elektroda, Hart3, post #17272574]

Which fuse powers the fan clutch on a 2001 Iveco Daily 35C11 without EDC?

Fuse 31 powers the clutch. On the shown board, it is second row from the bottom, left position. Non‑EDC 35C11 models switch the clutch directly via the radiator switch. [Elektroda, Hart3, post #17276334]

Do I need a relay to drive the fan clutch?

No. "The sensor in the radiator is designed for direct switching, without the need for a relay." Wire the clutch through the radiator switch. [Elektroda, Hart3, post #17287443]

How do I quickly test the radiator switch and fan clutch circuit?

How‑To: 1. Verify power is present at the radiator switch. 2. Temporarily link the switch output directly to the fan clutch feed. 3. Start the engine and confirm the clutch engages. This reproduces the intended diagram. [Elektroda, Hart3, post #17285685]

What should I check if shorting the sensor plug doesn't start the fan?

Check for power at the sensor and continuity to the clutch. Inspect the engine‑bay relay box and the loom near the brake servo. That area commonly fails and interrupts the feed. Repair breaks and retest. [Elektroda, Megawe, post #17285605]

Can a faulty fuse board cause low voltage at the clutch?

Yes. Fuse centers with foil copper paths can overheat and cause voltage drop. The clutch then sees weak power and will not pull in. Inspect for heat damage and high resistance, then repair or bypass. [Elektroda, Hart3, post #17272574]

How can I wire a working fix if the original loom is mixed up?

Feed the radiator sensor, then route its output to the clutch solenoid through a 5 A inline fuse. Ensure a clean ground. This setup restored fan control and held coolant near 90°C in practice. [Elektroda, piorom3, post #17313229]

How do I identify the correct fan clutch coil?

There are two coils: 2‑pin and 3‑pin. A/C‑equipped vehicles use the three‑output coil. Coils are costly; a burnt‑plastic smell indicates failure. Replace with the same type as your harness. [Elektroda, Megawe, post #17285544]

Where exactly is Fuse 31 on this fuse board, and are my fuse values right?

On the shown board, the lower‑left green fuse was tied to this circuit. Ensure fuse colors match pictogram colors. Oversized values appeared installed; correct ratings before testing. [Elektroda, Hart3, post #17278329]

My fan engages with a direct battery feed but won't release after shutdown. Why?

That indicates you bypassed the control path. A direct feed can hold the clutch engaged abnormally. Reconnect through the radiator switch and correct fuse feed to restore proper disengagement. [Elektroda, piorom3, post #17271053]

Is there a simple wiring diagram I can replicate without tearing the loom?

Yes. Battery feed → radiator temperature switch → fan clutch solenoid → ground. "Supply power to it and connect the output with the fan clutch." Keep runs short and connections clean. [Elektroda, Hart3, post #17285685]

How can I tell if the fan clutch coil has failed?

Smell for burnt plastic near the clutch. That odor points to a burned coil. Replace the coil with the correct 2‑pin or 3‑pin type for your setup. [Elektroda, Megawe, post #17285544]

Generated by the language model.