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[Solved] Home LAN Setup: Toya Cable Internet, Network Cables, TL-R860 Router and Switches

adrianopel 30534 28
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How should I wire a new house with a cable ISP modem, router, switch, and multiple network sockets so all devices share one LAN and can see each other?

Yes: put the ISP modem first, then one router, then a gigabit switch in the central cabinet/attic, and from that switch run a separate cable to each socket/device so everything stays in one LAN and can see each other [#17328770][#17329248][#17330180] Do not daisy-chain Ethernet sockets or split one cable into multiple outlets; each network point should have its own cable, so a double socket needs two cables [#17332920][#17333504][#17334034] Use a gigabit switch with enough ports for all runs; the thread recommends models like Netgear GS108 for 8 ports or GS116 for 16 ports so you avoid bottlenecks and keep spare ports [#17330180][#17328770] For a new build, pull extra UTP lines to the places where you may later want TVs, PCs, NAS, or ceiling-mounted access points, because the cabling will outlast the electronics [#17331357][#17329256] If there is heavier local traffic, keep it within the same fast switch rather than routing it through multiple devices [#17328462]
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  • #1 17328442
    adrianopel
    Level 10  
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    Hello,

    I am at the stage of laying electricity and network cables in a newly built house. In the future, I will have the Internet provided by cable by Toya and I would like to advise you on connecting network devices.

    According to the drawing, Toya will be connected to the garage. An electrician will pull a single network cable from there to the attic to then split the link into all network sockets in the house. This is where my trick begins.

    I will have more than 4 network sockets at home and from what I understand it is possible to use a combination of 4xLAN + switch router or possibly an 8xLAN router. There is a problem with the latter option because such routers are very expensive. The only cheap used that I found is TL-R860 but it probably is already old and from what I read in practice it offers only max 50Mbit per lan, not 100 ( Link ) although it does not seem to be a big problem to me because I do not have such requirements (now I have a 30Mbit connection and it is enough). So I am thinking about a newer 4xLAN router and a switch (what?).

    The drawing shows how I planned it more or less, but the question is whether I have overdone it. I want a separate wireless router on each floor, because one for the whole house cannot be used (I have and tested TL-WR842N). There would be one TV set on the ground floor next to it, so I could connect it from this router on the ground floor. The second TV will be behind the wall so he would get the network directly from the wired router in the attic.

    In the attic, the wireless router will be located in a different part of the house from the PC, PS3, projector and NAS.

    What I want all devices to see each other in the network, especially that the NAS server (or anything else for file exchange) behind the switch is visible to everyone (including those before the switch). Will I have problems for the network drawn in such a way to work properly? Should I be on something special?

    At the moment I have the mentioned TL-WR842N and the second TL-WR741ND, I miss the attic and possibly a switch.

    Thanks in advance for all the advice.

    Home LAN Setup: Toya Cable Internet, Network Cables, TL-R860 Router and Switches
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    #2 17328462
    Anonymous
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    #3 17328770
    mahoney92
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    I would do it like in the picture, except that instead of connecting to the router and switch, I would put one multi-port switch and a separate cable from it to each device. Then you will avoid bottlenecks. So ISP router-> Switch-> each device with a separate cable. Of course, the 1GB switch. 8 ports will have 1 port too little and the lower tv can be done through the lower router, unless you do specifically and put up a 16 port and spread these cables around the rooms with free ports.
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    #4 17328874
    LucekB
    Network and Internet specialist
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    from a central place, e.g. a garage or an attic, lead the cables to each TV, us, PC, etc., and additionally, for example, on the ceiling in the room or corridor for accespoins
    do not forget about the concentrate under each TV set.
    What cable does TOYA provide the internet with? Will their device be in the garage or in the attic?
  • #5 17329135
    adrianopel
    Level 10  
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    mahoney92 wrote:
    instead of connecting to the router and switch, I would put one multi-port switch


    But if the switch is right behind the Toya modem, then all devices will see each other in the LAN? From what I remember, when I called their helplines, they told me no and if I want them to see each other, there must be a router

    LucekB wrote:
    What cable does TOYA provide the internet with? Will their device be in the garage or in the attic?
    .

    In total, in the current apartment, where I am now, they left me their modem, to which I have my own router connected via rj45, so I'm guessing that it will be the same in the new house.
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    #6 17329248
    mahoney92
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    All devices connected to the switch will see each other, they only need to be in the same pool of ip addresses and to the same gateway, dhcp will suffice and it will assign addresses by itself. One more question, what modem do they give?
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    #7 17329256
    JacekCz
    Level 42  
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    wiring is an investment with a perspective of 15-30 years, electronic devices 10 times less.
    Try to think about the surplus and quality of cables (including assembly - can you provide more than a makeshift?), In 3 ... a few years there will be end devices that you do not expect today.
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    #8 17329868
    makosuu
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    There is to be a router behind the toyi modem, and a switch behind it. Everything is ok in this picture.
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    #9 17329873
    mahoney92
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    I will be at home in the evening and I will make a drawing as I would see it. It will be the easiest :-)
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    #10 17330180
    KOCUREK1970
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    makosuu wrote:
    There is to be a router behind the Toyota modem, and a switch behind it.

    The author took this into account?

    As they write, behind the switch router but 1 Gb (even if the net will be slower, then we will not limit the internal LAN).
    If you do not need a managed switch - then I recommend Netgear GS116 (why with 16 ports - if one fails, only the RJ45 cable is replaced and the network works and there is no need to buy a new switch).
    But if there are less "points" than 8 then buy the Netgear GS108 (same as GS116 only has 8 RJ45 ports, not 16).
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    #11 17331357
    IC_Current
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    Here you have how to install and save a few pennies on sockets:
    https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3477157.html

    What is not there:
    Leave the pipe from the garage to the attic - Toya will draw its cord directly into the central patch panel without "bundling" and creating potential points of failure in the future.
    On the first and second floor, leave the wires under the ceiling - if necessary, connect the AP (e.g. unify).
    Remember about the wires from the crossover cabinet to the alarm control panel, furnace controller, doorphone (eg notifications from doorphone to a mobile phone), uniphones etc. All UTP cables (even for doorphone), because in the future you can easily "upgrade" the installation without replacing the wires.
    In such a network, you can install any routers and switches as needed in the future.
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    #12 17332341
    KOCUREK1970
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    IC_Current wrote:
    Toya will pull its cable directly into the central patch cabinet without "splitting"

    The Toya modem runs on a coaxial cable that supplies the internet to the modem.
  • #13 17332891
    adrianopel
    Level 10  
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    I also have a question about double network sockets. Is it enough to pull a single cable for them or do you need two? My electrician suggests to me that one is enough and I understood that the socket functions as a switch, but it is difficult for me to find such sockets and I do not know whether to insist on a double cable.

    I generally want to connect a TV and a wireless router in one place. The latter will be turned on from time to time and I would like the TV to have constant access. The question is whether they will also work together without any problems. At the other end of the cable or cables from where the net will go, there will be a wired router (the one in the attic as shown in the previous drawing).
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    #14 17332920
    jprzedworski
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    adrianopel wrote:
    Is it enough to pull a single cable for them or do you need two?
    Two!
    adrianopel wrote:
    My electrician suggests to me that one is enough
    Electrician! 230 V can connect like that, but not ethernet.
    adrianopel wrote:
    the socket acts as a switch
    It is not possible.
    adrianopel wrote:

    Generally, I want to connect the TV and router in one place
    You may need two cables for your TV. One is a TV signal (probably a hub - it depends on how the provider provides the TV signal), and the other is a twisted pair if the TV is "Smart".
    And this router you mean wireless? As in the picture?
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    #15 17332935
    JacekCz
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    many electricians tell nonsense and install nonsense in the field of computer networks. I have already seen the cost estimate for the bank that the electrician gave 187 meters ONLY. He just jumped with one wire from socket to socket, like in electricity. Some wise ordering party, under the influence of a conversation with me, repeated the request for the offer. (it came out> 1500m)
    Someone like this proves that he has no idea.

    Two cables.
    A meter of cable on the wholesale market does not exceed PLN 1. What is the purported saving? PLN 150 (except that it is not there). The first switch with power supply costs more and is a makeshift


    Grandfather-amateur networks are created or saved in the philosophy of "and you can plug in a switch". First of all, Swich is electronics that can break down. May lose power. Slowdown (maybe not much, but always). The plug may not touch during cleaning. The fastening of indirect switches prevents the network from being universal (copper telephone, air-conditioning controller, etc.)
    With copper, use a pair of cables to lead to all the places I imagine today, and places that I cannot imagine. Somewhere where people work with computers, two times more than people at once.
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    #16 17332951
    IC_Current
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    Each one socket must be a separate wire. There is also UTP for the phone and also eight-pin keystones as for a computer network. What is this old-fashioned electrician ??
    Devices active only in the rack and you will be able to do and install whatever you like in the future. Now, if you put a router with AP and switches on the TV, it will have to be there forever.
    In the living room, of course, there are also two coaxial cables for the TV-R-SAT1-SAT2 socket, then in the future you can watch and record programs from different multiplexes simultaneously on the satellite set-top box. UTP cables in the living room of at least 4: TV, Set-top box, Console, Receiver, etc.
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    #17 17333464
    Arr0w
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    adrianopel wrote:
    Is it enough to pull a single cable for them or do you need two? My electrician suggests to me that one is enough


    It is true, one cable would be enough to work, but ...
    You could call it makeshift and get lynched in this forum ;)
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    #18 17333504
    makosuu
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    adrianopel wrote:
    I also have a question about double network sockets. Is it enough to pull a single cable for them or do you need two?


    Two cables. One device always on one cable (of course it can be a switch).
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    #19 17333510
    jprzedworski
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    Arr0w wrote:
    You could call it makeshift
    Or even tinkering. If new cables are pulled, it must be done properly. Even if one cable is already bricked up and there is no way to add another, you can always "unfasten" it with swichami and not physically unpair pairs, as some advise here. Because we will get to absurdity when someone puts one category 6 cable and splits these pairs into two "cables" with a capacity of 100 Mbps, because more will not go on two pairs.
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    #20 17334034
    KOCUREK1970
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    Arr0w wrote:
    True, one cable would suffice to function, but

    What will you do when that one and only wire is physically damaged?
    Arr0w wrote:
    You could call it makeshift and get lynched in this forum

    But it is better to be wise against the damage than to be foolish after the damage!

    As my colleagues advised above - RJ45 cables, coaxial and any need to lead to each point twice (yes, it's an expense, but it's better to spend now and sleep peacefully than to rake the walls to replace the damaged cable or install a new one, or look for other alternatives for a wired connection).
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    #21 17334267
    Anonymous
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    #22 17334305
    makosuu
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    Coaxial cable is one thing and the RJ-45 plug for twisted-pair cable is another. Do not mix.
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    #23 17334311
    IC_Current
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    BC109B wrote:
    I have a vague feeling that RJ45 is a type of plug, And the coaxial cable to it is probably twisted pair?

    The so-called light darkness:
    My friend Kocurek wrote a bit too colloquially, and my friend from transistors was also crazy. Sometimes such darkness also takes me sometimes, unfortunately :-) , but:

    RJ-xx (Registered Jack) is a plug
    XTP (Twisted Pair) cable. In popular vocabulary, twisted pair are UTP and FTP cables (like sports shoes are sneakers).
    The coaxial cable is not "twisted pair". Concentrations are cables such as for TV installation or for a WiFi antenna.
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  • #24 17334326
    Anonymous
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    #25 17334384
    JacekCz
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    IC_Current wrote:
    BC109B wrote:
    I have a vague feeling that RJ45 is a type of plug, And the coaxial cable to it is probably twisted pair?

    The so-called light darkness:
    My friend Kocurek wrote a bit too colloquially, and my friend from transistors was also crazy. Sometimes such darkness also takes me sometimes, unfortunately :-) , but:

    RJ-xx (Registered Jack) is a plug
    XTP (Twisted Pair) cable. In popular vocabulary, twisted pair are UTP and FTP cables (like sports shoes are sneakers).
    The coaxial cable is not "twisted pair". Concentrations are cables such as for TV installation or for a WiFi antenna.


    Another popular obscurity is speaking LAN to a copper network, excluding Wifi.
    Meanwhile, these are concepts from completely different layers (physical / service). Wifi can be a carrier in a LAN network, and a twisted-pair copper connection may not meet the LAN assumptions (for example, it can transfer analog telephone calls or be an element of an external network)

    EDIT: ethernet for twisted pair too
  • #26 17334402
    IC_Current
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    Twisted pair - yes
    Concentric - to the living room, as needed elsewhere and keep an eye on plasterers and other professionals so that they do not damage the pipes, and arrange the pipes in such a way that it is possible to replace the wires.
    Pipes always with a reserve of cross-section, e.g. RKKS 750N 25 * 20 are two conductors, 32 * 26 are four conductors, and one conductor is 20 * 14
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  • #27 17334454
    KOCUREK1970
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    BC109B wrote:
    So twisted pair, coaxial cables and others, you have to lead to each point double ...

    There is no such compulsion!
    Only the house is not built every 5 years (because you need to equip it with new necessary wiring), but you don't need to renovate it (with some exceptions) :D ) you do not do it every year - and in Internet and network issues it changes so quickly that it is better to "give" ahead and exaggerated than cry afterwards.
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    #28 17334465
    Anonymous
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  • #29 18316903
    adrianopel
    Level 10  
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    Router or switch in the attic from him cables to individual sockets.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around setting up a home LAN with Toya cable internet, focusing on the connection of multiple network devices. Users suggest using a combination of a router and a switch to manage more than four network sockets, with recommendations for using a 1GB switch to avoid bottlenecks. The importance of running separate cables for each device is emphasized to ensure reliability and future-proofing the network. Concerns about the capabilities of older routers like the TL-R860 are raised, with suggestions for more modern alternatives such as Netgear's GS108 and GS116 switches. The necessity of proper wiring and the implications of using coaxial cables for internet connections are also discussed.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Gigabit cabling (1 Gbps) is 10× faster than 100 Mbps links [IEEE, 2018]; “Two cables beat one—failure happens” [Elektroda, JacekCz, post #17332935] Place Toya modem → router → Gigabit switch, then pull separate Cat6 cables to every outlet and ceiling AP point.

Why it matters: This layout removes speed bottlenecks and future-proofs the house with minimal extra cost.

Quick Facts

• Toya hands off service on one RJ45 port; a private router is mandatory [Elektroda, adrianopel, post #17329135] • 8-port unmanaged Gigabit switch ≈ 140 PLN (€30) [TP-Link SG108 price, 2024] • Cat6 U/UTP supports up to 10 Gbps over 55 m [TIA-568, 2017] • Extra cable now costs ~1 PLN /m but saves wall-repair later [Elektroda, JacekCz, post #17332935] • Dual RJ45 outlet = two separate cables, no built-in switch [Elektroda, jprzedworski, post #17332920]

1. What home-LAN topology works best with Toya cable internet?

Mount Toya modem in the garage, connect its RJ45 to a Gigabit router, then feed a central Gigabit switch. Run individual Cat6 lines from that switch to every room and ceiling AP point. This star layout keeps full speed on each run and avoids shared bottlenecks [Elektroda, mahoney92, post #17328770]

2. Can I plug a switch straight into the Toya modem?

No. The modem hands out a single public IP. A NAT router must sit first to share the link and keep devices on one LAN [Elektroda, makosuu, post #17329868]

3. How many cables should feed a double network socket?

Pull two separate twisted-pair cables. Sockets have no internal switch, and one damaged cable then has a spare [Elektroda, jprzedworski, post #17332920]

4. Which cable category is advisable today?

Install solid-core Cat6 U/UTP; it supports 1 Gbps to 100 m and 10 Gbps to 55 m [TIA-568, 2017]. "Wire quality outlives electronics tenfold" [Elektroda, JacekCz, post #17329256]

5. How big should my switch be?

Count every planned outlet, add 25 % growth, then choose the next size up. For 9 drops, a 16-port unmanaged Gigabit switch (e.g., Netgear GS116) leaves room for failures and upgrades [Elektroda, KOCUREK1970, post #17330180]

6. Do switches stop devices seeing each other?

No. All ports on an unmanaged switch share the same broadcast domain, so PCs, NAS, and TVs remain visible if they use the same subnet and gateway [Elektroda, mahoney92, post #17329248]

7. Where should I place Wi-Fi access points?

Run one UTP drop to the ceiling of each floor’s hallway. Connect separate APs there to guarantee even coverage; walls and floors typically slash 2.4 GHz signal strength by 15–25 dB [Cisco, 2023].

8. Is an old 100 Mbps router like TL-R860 worth keeping?

Use it only as an extra access point. A 100 Mbps router caps LAN file transfers at 12 MB/s, while Gigabit moves ~110 MB/s—over 9× faster [IEEE, 2018].

9. What’s the risk of splitting one cable into two 100 Mbps links?

Unpairing halves bandwidth, blocks PoE, and fails at Gigabit speeds. If one pair later breaks, both pseudo-links die—an avoidable single point of failure [Elektroda, KOCUREK1970, post #17334034]

10. How do I keep every device in one IP subnet?

Enable DHCP on the main router, use a /24 pool (e.g., 192.168.1.0/24). Configure APs and extra routers as bridges with DHCP off, LAN IP in that range, and uplink via LAN port—not WAN [Elektroda, mahoney92, post #17329248]

11. 3-step checklist: testing cables before walls close

  1. Label both ends with room-port codes.
  2. Use a cable tester; verify all 8 pins straight-through.
  3. Record results and snap photos near junction box for future reference.

12. What if a buried cable gets damaged later?

Without a spare line you face opening walls or running exposed raceways. Rework costs can exceed 500 PLN per room, five times the price of adding an extra cable during construction [Home-Renovation Cost Guide, 2023].
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