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DIY 3D printer on Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega2560

Mrxnnx 14400 29
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  • Hi, today I wanted to present you my construction of a 3D printer from start to finish designed and made by me! I'll start with the construction, at the end I'll summarise the costs :) I got interested in 3D printing through the 3D printing circle in my department at university, as I had just finished high school it would be worthwhile to get involved in something like this, but instead of participating in the life of the circle I was more interested in the machines themselves, which is why I decided to build one myself (to this day I am not in this circle, and all the knowledge about 3D printing I owe to the Internet and experience)

    I started by understanding how such a printer works and it's quite simple, there are three axes controlled by XYZ stepper motors and a head which heats up and through it the filament is "pushed" for printing. If anyone wants more information the internet is a huge source.

    My printer is of the FDM type i.e. three axes in a Cartesian system. The frame is made of 20x20x2mm aluminium profiles (about 5-6m) and quite a few allen head screws (M3 and M4 of various lengths). The dimensions are about 50x50x50cm, the working area is about 30cm in the x and y axes and 40 in the Z axis.

    I started by building the base of the printer, which is simply the bottom frame:

    DIY 3D printer on Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega2560

    and assembling the roller guides to the printer table (Y axis).

    The first problem arose when I tried to make the so-called gate, well I didn't know how to connect quite stably to the previously built frame. I initially wanted to buy ready-made connectors, but they were not available anywhere in the shape I wanted, and it was a waste of money to mill them in aluminium. I took a bit of a risk and cut the connectors out of wood using a laser.

    DIY 3D printer on Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega2560 DIY 3D printer on Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega2560

    This is what the connectors and my printer looked like. The next step was to mount the table on bearings (Y axis).

    DIY 3D printer on Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega2560

    So now that I have the Y axis base I need to get on with the X and Z axes, the next step was to assemble the guides for the Z axes, I made the roller holders from an 8mm thick and 20mm wide piece of aluminium suitably drilled and threaded by me.

    DIY 3D printer on Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega2560 DIY 3D printer on Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega2560

    Unfortunately I stopped taking photos during this stage of the build and only have further photos once I have all the axles fitted, and it looks like this:

    DIY 3D printer on Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega2560

    At this point the table was already mounted on springs so that it will be possible to adjust its height and level, and it looks like this:

    DIY 3D printer on Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega2560

    The assembly of the head remains and the toy is practically finished. I probably didn't mention, but the Y and X axes are driven by GT2 6mm belts and the Z axis by two trapezoidal screws with T8 threads (the X and Y axes have one motor each, while the Z axis has two motors). After assembling the head, the first prints took place.

    DIY 3D printer on Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega2560

    Here a picture from a week ago, since then I have added a heated table and arranged the cables (a little). Now the printer is almost finished and ready to play with.

    DIY 3D printer on Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega2560 DIY 3D printer on Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega2560 DIY 3D printer on Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega2560

    As far as the electronics are concerned, I used a fairly common solution which is an arduino mega2560 (clone) with a ramps 1.4 overlay (+stepsticks A4988 for the stepper motors). The stepper motors are the well-known nema 17 (no point in packing bigger ones). The addition here is an LCD controller that allows the printer to work without a computer.

    DIY 3D printer on Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega2560 DIY 3D printer on Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega2560 DIY 3D printer on Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega2560


    Forgive me for such a short description, it's quite late, I will answer any questions tomorrow :)

    Example prints:

    DIY 3D printer on Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega2560 DIY 3D printer on Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega2560

    I must sadly add that unfortunately still not every print comes out nicely, I blame this on the Chinese head and I am trying to buy an original e3d head :)


    The cost of such a play:
    - 20x20x2m aluminium profiles and 3mm sheet - 100zl
    - Screws, nuts, washers - 100zl (a lot left over)
    - Slides (12mm shafts) 6pcs - 75zl
    - Bearings 12pcs - 100zl
    - Holders for slides 8pcs - 40zl
    - Bearings for trapezoidal screws 2pcs - 10zl
    - Trapezoidal screws T8 500mm with cap 2szt - 30zl
    - Flexible couplings 2pcs - 20zl
    - Motor mounts 3pcs - 20zl
    - GT2 6mm belt for 5m - 8zł
    - Gears for the belt (several different ones) - 20zl
    - Nema 17 motors 5pcs - 140zl
    - Arduino mega2560 clone - 40zl
    - Ramps 1.4 - 15zl
    - Stepsticks A4988 4pcs - 10zł
    - LCD - 40zl
    - MK8 extruder - 20zl (filament feeder)
    - E3D clone head - 20zl
    - Limit switches - 10zl

    Total - 818zł

    Things such as cables and other fuckers I skip because I had at home,
    i do not remember more, if something is please ask :)


    The costs were certainly a little higher but that was because sometimes the wrong thing was sent or something just broke.

    If anyone wants to ask if it's worth it, it's honestly rather not. It's rare for a person to print anything bigger than 20x20x20cm and for the amount I spent you can get a decent printer for hobby printing. On the other hand, if someone wants to try their hand at it and have great satisfaction then I recommend it, super fun.

    If someone decides to build a 3D printer I will be happy to help start this adventure, so feel free to write.

    Greetings and good night :)

    Cool? Ranking DIY
    About Author
    Mrxnnx
    Level 9  
    Offline 
    Mrxnnx wrote 61 posts with rating 88. Live in city Warszawa. Been with us since 2018 year.
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  • #2 17829467
    LA72
    Level 41  
    Nice printer.
    What kind of heating table did you use?
    Did you compile the software yourself or adopted from somewhere?
    It's worth thinking about a MOSfet, RAMPS can melt on the power socket after a while.
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  • #3 17829618
    elektronik2018
    Level 11  
    £818... It's a bit past the cost-effectiveness of buying a new printer.
  • #4 17829639
    error105
    Level 14  
    elektronik2018 wrote:
    £818.... A little passes the profitability of buying a new printer.

    Show some nice printer to 818zł then we will determine whether it passes or does not pass :)

    Congrats on your enthusiasm and it worked out quite nicely for you :) I would also add an Auto leveling table for easier printing.

    PS. Basically you did the same thing as 90% of Anet A8 users - they buy a printer for 550zł and then an aluminium frame 200zł, RAMPS +Arduino 100zł, Mosfet 30zł, another nozzle from 100 to 200zł and it comes out the same as yours, except that you made it yourself :)
  • #5 17829702
    Mrxnnx
    Level 9  
    LA72 wrote:

    What kind of heating table did you use?
    Did you compile the software yourself or adopted from somewhere?
    It's worth thinking about a MOSfet, RAMPS can melt on the power socket after a while.


    The table is a popular heatbed on the internet
    DIY 3D printer on Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega2560

    Software:
    - software is Marlin 1.1.9 configured for my printer
    - slicer to cura
    - for controlling the printer I use repetier host
    - in addition, for design I use fusion 360 from autodesk (student version for free)

    I forgot to add that the mosfet is already there, you can see it on the photo next to the LCD.

    Added after 5 [minutes]:

    error105 wrote:
    elektronik2018 wrote:
    £818.... Somewhat misses the cost effectiveness of buying a new printer.

    Show some nice printer to 818zł then we will determine whether it passes or does not pass :)



    If someone cares about decent prints, just such a small hobby printer then it is worth considering the Creality Ender 3 available at around £700. Add a few udpskonaleń and it prints quite decently :) of course if someone wants to have a little fun it is worth to add a little more and do it yourself.

    The costs were a little more than 818zł because I certainly forgot something but it was not somehow mega much :)
  • #6 17829940
    zeznik2804
    Level 10  
    The printer you have built works using FDM technology, which involves extruding molten filament and laying it down layer upon layer to build a 3d model.
    http://swiatdruku3d.pl/fdm-fused-deposition-modeling/
    There are also other 3D printing technologies, such as: SLA, SLS, DMLS, Polyjet.
    However, the design of your printer is based on the Cartesian system. In addition, there are also 3d printers with a different type of construction, coreXY, H-bot, SCARA.
  • #7 17829948
    Madman07
    Level 19  
    error105 wrote:
    Show me a nice printer up to £818 and then we'll determine if it passes or fails


    For example, the Creality Ender 3. I bought (from a Polish warehouse) in a promotion for about 780zł. The only downsides to the subject author's printer are one motor in the Z axis and less flash in the proc (128k).
  • #8 17829995
    Mrxnnx
    Level 9  
    zeznik2804 wrote:
    The printer you built works using FDM technology, which involves extruding molten filament and layering it to build a 3D model.


    I wrote at the beginning of the post :) but thanks for elaborating :)
  • #9 17830004
    zeznik2804
    Level 10  
    Mrxnnx wrote:
    zeznik2804 wrote:
    The printer you have built works using FDM technology, which is based on extruding molten filament and layering it to build a 3d model.


    I wrote at the beginning of the post :) but thanks for elaborating :)


    Mrxnnx wrote:

    My printer is of the FDM type i.e. three axes in Cartesian system.


    I have the impression that you are confusing the concepts of printing technology with the type of construction of the device.
    :)
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  • #10 17830087
    Mrxnnx
    Level 9  
    zeznik2804 wrote:

    I have the impression that you are confusing the concepts of printing technology with the type of construction of the device.
    :)


    You are correct, I return the honour :)
  • #11 17830172
    romulus73
    Level 28  
    This design has little rigidity, it is not the head that is bad but the nozzle, on top of that the extruder is a failure. How many steps per mm do you have 90? with a knurl fi 12mm.
    Print extra support for the vertical design, make the extruder for at least 300 steps per mm. and Give some better electronics than the Mega.
    What kind of microstep do you have?
    With these dimensions, be tempted to get a dual or at least a multi hotend.
    The only thing left of my Chinese printer is the frame, which in a cube arrangement gives fantastic rigidity, the rest has been replaced. give a neoprene pski.
    With these materials what you have used it will never be a good print strips like rubber bands from underpants, what is the oval tolerance for these rollers?
  • #12 17831489
    SylwekK
    Level 32  
    Respect for your own approach to construction. I'll stick with the wood. Laser cutting these brackets out of stainless steel, aluminium or even plain steel would cost a good 20PLN and it would look much better. And then there's that shaggy cable monster - couldn't it have been arranged nicer? ;-)
  • #13 17832487
    zackass1
    Level 16  
    Replace the fuses in the ramps with some automotive ones, as what are there often cause problems.
    Also knock out the connectors from the power supply and heaters and either solder the cables to the board or use some others that can withstand the load.
    The original connectors will burn out sooner or later.
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  • #14 17835991
    Przybyłek
    Level 14  
    romulus73 wrote:
    This design has little rigidity, it is not the head that is bad but the nozzle, on top of that the extruder is a failure. How many steps do you have per mm 90? with a knurl fi 12mm.
    Print extra support for the vertical design, make the extruder for at least 300 steps per mm. and Give some better electronics than the Mega.
    What kind of microstep do you have?
    With these dimensions, be tempted to get a dual or at least a multi hotend.
    The only thing left of my Chinese printer is the frame, which in a cube arrangement gives fantastic rigidity, the rest has been replaced. give a neoprene pski.
    With these materials what you have used it will never be a good print strips like rubber bands from underpants, what is the oval tolerance for these rollers?


    Do you think the oval tolerance of the rollers is relevant here, which is in the hundreds of mm? They are more likely to bend. Neoprene straps? That's an even more flexible material. Here, the author has used rubber ones with a non-stretchable reinforcement inside.
  • #15 17836200
    Mrxnnx
    Level 9  
    romulus73 wrote:
    This design has little rigidity, it is not the head that is bad but the nozzle, on top of that the extruder is a failure. How many steps do you have per mm 90? with a knurl fi 12mm.
    Print extra support for the vertical design, make the extruder for at least 300 steps per mm. and Give some better electronics than the Mega.
    What kind of microstep do you have?
    With these dimensions, be tempted to get a dual or at least a multi hotend.


    For the contraption I'm planning stiffeners. The steps I have about 95 per mm, the extruder goes to change in the near future. As for the electronics, the 8bit mega must stay for financial reasons. The microstep, if I am not mistaken, is 1/32 or 1/16. As for the dual/multi hotend, again for financial reasons I cannot afford it at the moment

    Added after 1 [minute]:

    SylwekK wrote:
    Szacun for your own approach to construction. I'll get to that wood. Laser cutting those brackets out of stainless, aluminium or even plain steel would cost a gora 20£ and it would look a lot better. And then there's that shaggy cable monster - couldn't it have been arranged nicer? ;-)


    Cables taken care of, wood as well as a few other things are in the plans so change :)

    Added after 1 [minute]:

    Przybyłek wrote:

    Do you think the oval tolerance of the rollers is relevant here, which is in the hundreds of mm? They are more likely to bend. Neoprene straps? That's an even more flexible material. Here the author has used rubber ones with a non-stretchable reinforcement inside.


    The strips are with reinforcement, they are quite stiff and non-stretchable, I am considering replacing them with fibreglass strips, has anyone used such strips and shared their opinion?
  • #16 17843861
    nanab
    Level 27  
    Looks awfully noisy, haven't you thought about V-slot profiles and rollers instead of shafts and linear bearings?
    error105 wrote:

    Show some nice printer up to 818zł then we will determine if it passes or fails

    There are quite a few clones of the ender3, e.g. alfawise u30 for a bit around 600zl, geeetech a10m for around 900zl, but this is already full option, two extruders and all possible tuning as standard. The Ender3 is already passing into oblivion, just as the anetas displaced by it have gone. I have one, but if I had to choose now I would prefer the same thing only better and cheaper or the same thing only much better and a bit more expensive - both of which I mentioned above.
  • #17 17844047
    Mrxnnx
    Level 9  
    nanab wrote:
    Looks awfully loud, haven't you thought about V-slot profiles and rollers instead of shafts and linear bearings?
    .


    The printer despite appearances is quiet, unfortunately you can only hear the squeaks of the motors which is probably due to the stepsticks.
    My idea was to do it as cheaply as possible, the cost of V slots for 1 meter is about 4-5 times more. It is possible that in the future I will rebuild the printer and do on V slots, but it depends on my wallet and if I will not get bored :)
  • #18 17848738
    oskar777

    Level 26  
    Mrxnnx would you be able to give the exact dimensions of the structure what I have indicated, unless you were guided by a specific design.

    DIY 3D printer on Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega2560
    Company Account:
    Oskar-info
    Gidzińskiego 24/1, Warszawa, 02-293 | Tel.: 501XXXXXX (Show) | Company Website: http://oskar-info.pl
  • #19 17849045
    Mrxnnx
    Level 9  
    oskar777 wrote:
    Mrxnnx would you be able to give the exact dimensions of the structure what I have indicated, unless you were guided by a specific design.


    The design is mine, I had sketches on paper somewhere, I'll look for it.

    The dimensions according to your marking are:
    - A, E and D are 50cm
    - C and B are 24cm the "gate" is right in the middle of the bottom frame. If anyone would like to build something like this I would recommend designing so that it is more or less the Z axis linear shafts that are in the centre, then the head will be closer to the centre, in my case it is a bit forward and I lose about 2.5cm of working area in one of the axes.
  • #20 17849375
    oskar777

    Level 26  
    Thank you very much.
    I wanted to do something similar only with steel profiles.
    Company Account:
    Oskar-info
    Gidzińskiego 24/1, Warszawa, 02-293 | Tel.: 501XXXXXX (Show) | Company Website: http://oskar-info.pl
  • #21 17849413
    Mrxnnx
    Level 9  
    oskar777 wrote:
    Thank you very much.
    I wanted to do something similar only with steel profiles.


    It will be very heavy and difficult to machine if you don't have the equipment :) but maybe it will improve the stability of the machine. If you have any further questions, please write PW
  • #22 17849475
    maxipug
    Level 13  
    Using unsupported rollers is not a very good idea
    Poor stability,...
    Anyway, a colleague will see for himself after some time of use....(my printer works practically 24/7) and the other design uses linear guides
    Head is tylo e3d, I use it myself for 8 years and there is no better, you change nozzles from time to time and go

    My design at work:

    https://youtu.be/CkpdWUSwKks

    On a daily basis I print at half this speed
  • #23 17849648
    oskar777

    Level 26  
    Mrxnnx I won't give you a specific topic, as it's been a long time since I've read these threads, but sometimes people have had problems in these alu-plastic constructions ie typical. Something bent, something trembled, etc. I want to give 30x30x3 or 40x40x3 profiles and pour epoxy concrete over them ;]. The weight doesn't matter, I won't go anywhere with it anyway and I will move it once a year.

    maxipug supported shafts are a considerable expense something around 10zl/cm which is about 150zl/cm in this design plus bearing mounts, so we have about 250-300zl, it is probably better to give longer linear bearings or a 12-16mm shaft. I think so.
    Company Account:
    Oskar-info
    Gidzińskiego 24/1, Warszawa, 02-293 | Tel.: 501XXXXXX (Show) | Company Website: http://oskar-info.pl
  • #24 17849672
    Mrxnnx
    Level 9  
    oskar777 wrote:
    Mrxnnx I won't give you a specific topic, because it's been a long time since I read these threads, but sometimes people have had problems in these alu-plastic constructions that is typical. Something bent, something trembled, etc. I want to give 30x30x3 or 40x40x3 profiles and pour epoxy concrete over them ;]. The weight doesn't matter, I won't be going anywhere with it anyway and I will move it once a year.


    Cool concept, we'll see how it works out for you, let us know.

    As for my construction, there is no plastic :) Greetings
  • #25 17855813
    pawelcb33
    Level 24  
    maxipug interesting extruder, did you make it yourself or did you order it ?
    Do you have something applied on the table or do you print directly on it ?
  • #26 17856299
    Mrxnnx
    Level 9  
    The printer has been running for almost a month now, it has undergone some improvements. At this point the prints look very decent, here are pictures of some of the largest prints I've done, about 15x7x7cm and took about 6 hours.

  • #27 17864518
    maxipug
    Level 13  
    pawelcb33 wrote:
    maxipug interesting extruder, did you make it yourself or ordered ?
    Do you have something applied on the table or do you print directly on it ?


    The extruder is my design based on the printbot, cut from aluminium
    Stò³ was a prototype and the print was taken out directly.
    The current configuration is bowden and stò³ mk3
  • #28 17932811
    Mrxnnx
    Level 9  
    The printer is still undergoing modifications, the last biggest change was the installation of a new head board, namely a duo 2 wifi (clone). I'm now even happier with the prints and the culture of the machine :) I'll soon be rebuilding the printer into a larger one with a 50x50x50 working area, as I'll have access to cnc milling so I won't have to cut anything by hand :) I'll post progress from time to time :) :)

    DIY 3D printer on Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega2560 DIY 3D printer on Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega2560 DIY 3D printer on Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega2560 DIY 3D printer on Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega2560 DIY 3D printer on Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega2560 DIY 3D printer on Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega2560 DIY 3D printer on Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega2560
  • #29 17933343
    oskar777

    Level 26  
    Are you able to take a picture of the rear as the screws are attached to the axle.
    Company Account:
    Oskar-info
    Gidzińskiego 24/1, Warszawa, 02-293 | Tel.: 501XXXXXX (Show) | Company Website: http://oskar-info.pl
  • #30 18067377
    cypeks
    Level 12  
    error105 wrote:
    Show some nice printer to 818zł then we will determine whether it passes or fails

    Alfawise U30, Ender 3 though - in the case of the U30 shipping from EU warehouse is $169.99, Ender a little cheaper.

    Added after 2 [minutes]:

    Mrxnnx wrote:
    At this point the prints look very decent, here are pictures of some of the largest prints I have done, about 15x7x7cm and lasted about 6 hours.

    No offence but in my opinion the prints look rather poor. You have terrible waviness in the Z-axis (visible stripes of individual layers). At what speed did you print this that it waved so much?
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