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[Solved] Will the 640A inrush current be too high with the original 540A battery

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Can I replace a 70 Ah 540 A car battery with a 64 Ah 640 A battery, and will the higher starting current cause any problems?

Yes — the higher starting current is not a problem; the starter only draws the current it needs, so a 640 A battery will not force 640 A through the car’s electrics [#17902008][#17902561] One reply notes that for a car originally fitted with 70 Ah, the safer choice is the same capacity or only slightly higher, roughly up to 80 Ah if it fits [#17901230] The battery’s capacity matters more for how long it can power accessories with the engine off, while a larger battery can also take longer to recharge if the alternator is weak or the car makes many short trips [#17902008][#17902410] For your extra audio/CAN-camera loads, the thread says this does not affect the cranking-current question; the current rating is mainly about starting reserve, especially in colder conditions [#17902008][#17902561] On the Exide line, Premium is described as sealed/no cell access, while the Excel/Excell series has removable access to the cells under the cover/sticker [#17901230][#17907033]
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  • #31 17905842
    amator2000
    Level 25  
    Posts: 1051
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    Board Language: polish
    Aleksander_01 wrote:
    As with: which is heavier, a kilo of feathers or a kilo of brick. I have heard such answers, it is known that a kilo of brick is heavier.


    You are technically right, but if you were asked if you would prefer a 1 kg brick or a feather bag of the same weight to fall on your head, what would you choose :?:
    :D


    As for the merits, the bigger battery is better than the smaller one, if only because the bigger battery will last longer in a car that has not been fired for weeks. There are other reasons, which have already been extensively discussed - and the most important reason is the starting current, especially in winter, especially in diesel, especially in a few years old battery.
    :D
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  • #32 17906115
    tzok
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
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    Honestly - I would take no less than the car manufacturer recommends, but as cheap as possible, because what I wouldn't buy, when the warranty expires, you will have to replace it a maximum of one year. How do you want to take care of, top up etc. then you can buy a better one. In European cars it is a bit easier because there is usually room for a larger battery.

    Electrobot wrote:
    that the car manufacturer adjusted it to 70Ah and 54A?
    This time one zero is not enough ;) 70 Ah and 540 A.
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  • #33 17906430
    kazikszach
    Level 39  
    Posts: 3990
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    Electrobot wrote:
    Unfortunately, but you are wrong, because just such a size was aku and I will surprise you! this battery had Asian dimensions ... I have somewhere in the thousands of photo files, I will try to find and upload.

    However, I was right about 70Ah, so check first then write.
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  • #34 17906843
    Electrobot
    Level 10  
    Posts: 75
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    Board Language: polish
    kazikszach wrote:
    Electrobot wrote:
    Unfortunately, but you are wrong, because just such a size was aku and I will surprise you! this battery had Asian dimensions ... I have somewhere in the thousands of photo files, I will try to find and upload.

    However, I was right about 70Ah, so check first then write.


    Hello ... I wrote so adequately to 70Ah :P , and that would be correct, and 700 Ah it was rather obvious that the digital has broken?

    but let's assume you're partly right, because I fought with 700 instead of 70Ah (that's why I insisted on 700 thinking about 70).
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  • #35 17907033
    adse
    Level 27  
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    These plugs under the lid on Excell are integrated with the lid as one piece. Each cap cannot be unscrewed separately, but all cells can be opened by removing the cover together with the plugs. However, opening the cells requires you to peel off or cut the sticker on the lid - possibly voiding your warranty.
    The unscrewed individual plugs have Autopart batteries from Mielec and these plugs are also under the sticker. I've also seen some traffic jam banners.
  • #36 17961497
    Electrobot
    Level 10  
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    adse wrote:
    These plugs under the lid on Excell are integrated with the lid as one piece. Each cap cannot be unscrewed separately, but all cells can be opened by removing the cover together with the plugs. However, opening the cells requires you to peel off or cut the sticker on the lid - possibly voiding your warranty.
    The unscrewed individual plugs have Autopart batteries from Mielec and these plugs are also under the sticker. I've also seen some traffic jam banners.


    Hello,
    yes, what you wrote in 100% and the trace guarantees also in this case 2 years ... apparently these WESTA FORSE also have traffic jams and they work well. Moles also have plugs and no stickers, and I don't think they lose the AKU warranty here - solid batteries, which I also recommend, but without proper knowledge of taking care of the AKU, even the best one will be damaged ... unless the vehicle / car has a serious fault.

    Aku Excell now has a nice current on and off (as for the voltage, it is to be understood ;) ), and I'm happy for now ... it burns to the touch! may he endure a long time taking care of him ;) checking it often, i.e. electricity, electrolyte - with an aerometer, pulling it out when longer trips or when the car is standing, etc.

    greetings!
  • #37 20229782
    vasteq
    Level 18  
    Posts: 903
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    You say that the higher the inrush current is better, but wherever you read, those with lower currents live longer. So how is it?
  • #38 20230773
    piachu1994
    Level 39  
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    The quality of the batteries is currently like a lottery - if you hit it, it will last for a few years.
    First of all, Aku must be matched to the car, you can try to wear a bit larger. An important issue in the life of a battery is its charging, clamps, clean electrical connections.
  • #39 20230780
    user64
    Level 35  
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    You are setting, dear author, that the battery will work for the next 7 years, while the current batteries, when they work for 3 years, is already a good result, even on the verge of a very good one. Unfortunately, I am unlucky and replaced the last batteries after 28 - 34 months. I have a diesel engine and it requires a lot of electricity to start it, but this does not change anything, because the batteries are now specially produced so that they die quickly.
    Therefore, the answer to buy the cheapest with the right capacity is the best. I have already recovered from the expensive ones, the difference in price with the cheap ones is too big, because the time of their operation is very similar.
  • #40 20230916
    Walery K
    Level 23  
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    Well, I do not know if VARTA batteries have plugs or not because I was not interested in it. In the previous Audi I drove for 10 years and did not look there, in the Sprinter 7 years the same.
    In the next Audi for almost 5 years and still without checking and recharging in the Sprinter after 7 years, I replaced it, but also without checking and topping up first. Anyway, in current cars, access to the battery is not easy because they are quite hidden, so why do you need traffic jams?
    So please do not write here that there is no point in buying more expensive batteries.
  • #41 20230980
    Aleksander_01
    Level 43  
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    piachu1994 wrote:
    The quality of the batteries is currently like a lottery - if you hit it, it will last for a few years.
    First of all, Aku must be matched to the car, you can try to wear a bit larger. An important issue in the life of a battery is its charging, clamps, clean electrical connections.

    Agreed, but that applies to European batteries. Buy Korean and at least 10 years of leisurely driving. They can be bought in Poland on aledrogo, only the price discourages, twice as much as the Varta. He survived in the ghetto for 12.5 years, in Rio he has 9.5 and no signs of old age, 5.5 years in optima and nothing.
    As proof, look at the offers of Koreans like this for about 10 years and you will see that the vast majority have original batteries.
  • #42 20231501
    vodiczka
    Level 43  
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    Aleksander_01 wrote:
    Buy Korean and at least 10 years of leisurely driving
    On bought 10 years ago. :idea:
    Aleksander_01 wrote:
    As proof, look through the offers of Koreans like this for about 10 years and you will see that the vast majority have original batteries.
    You will allow yourself to have your little toe trimmed (not cut off) if the one you buy now will not last 6 years :?:
  • #43 20232265
    Aleksander_01
    Level 43  
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    I am writing about batteries that are normally used in a fully functional car. Give me the best of the best and I'll have it under warranty.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the compatibility of a new EXIDE PREMIUM 64 Ah / 640 A battery with a vehicle that originally had a 70 Ah / 540 A battery. Users express concerns about the inrush current, which is the maximum current the battery can deliver at startup. It is noted that a higher inrush current can be beneficial for starting performance, especially in larger engines, but may lead to reduced battery lifespan. Participants debate the importance of matching battery capacity (Ah) and starting current (A) to the vehicle's requirements, with some suggesting that a battery with a higher starting current can provide better performance. Additionally, questions arise regarding the accessibility of battery cells for maintenance and the overall reliability of different battery brands and models. Recommendations include considering the vehicle's electrical load and ensuring proper charging capacity to avoid undercharging issues.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Up-sizing from 540 A to 640 A cold-cranking amps (CCA) is safe; a 2.0 L petrol starter needs only about 170 A, “the starter decides how much it will take” [Elektroda, tzok, post #17902561] Why it matters: correct sizing prevents hard-start failures without stressing your alternator.

Quick Facts

• Typical 2.0 L petrol starter draw: 150-200 A [Elektroda, tzok, post #17902561] • OEM spec for thread car: 70 Ah, 540 A CCA [Elektroda, Electrobot, post #17900891] • Safe oversize window: ±15 % capacity per OEM guides [Elektroda, Electrobot, post #17905488] • Alternator charge voltage range: 13.8-14.4 V [Bosch, 2020] • Exide Premium 70 Ah street price: €110-€130 (EU, 2023) [BatteryPrice.eu]

Will a 640 A CCA battery harm a system designed for 540 A?

No. The starter pulls the current it needs; the battery only supplies what is demanded. With a draw of ~170 A, the extra 100 A CCA stays unused and causes no damage [Elektroda, tzok, post #17902561]

Which spec matters more—capacity (Ah) or CCA?

Capacity determines how long accessories can run with the engine off; CCA affects cold-start ability. Meet or slightly exceed both. Aim for equal Ah and ≥ OEM CCA for reliability [Elektroda, adse, post #17901230]

Can higher CCA shorten battery life?

High-plate batteries can show reduced deep-cycle durability, yet real-world data vary. Proper charging and avoiding deep discharges influence life far more than CCA rating [Elektroda, Electrobot, post #17900891]

Will a larger capacity battery undercharge with my alternator?

In healthy systems, no. The alternator regulates voltage, not current; it tops any size battery to the same state, only time changes [Elektroda, vodiczka, post #17902607]

How much current does a typical starter draw?

A 2 kW starter at 12 V draws about 170 A. Even adding lighting loads keeps total below 350 A [Elektroda, tzok, post #17902561]

Do extra speakers or a rear-camera require higher CCA?

No. Audio and cameras draw milliamps when off and a few amps when on. Capacity, not CCA, handles accessory runtime [Elektroda, supermario87, post #17902008]

Are removable cell plugs worth having?

Plugs let you test and top up electrolyte, extending life if you perform maintenance. Opening sealed caps, however, can void warranties [Elektroda, adse, post #17907033]

How do I check electrolyte safely?

  1. Peel or lift the cover to expose cell caps [Elektroda, adse, post #17907033]
  2. Wear goggles, unscrew caps, insert hydrometer.
  3. Compare specific gravity (1.265 g/cm³ full charge). Refill with distilled water if plates show [Bosch, 2020].

Why do many modern batteries last only 3 years?

Manufacturers use thinner plates and higher lead purity for weight and cost; deep discharges and short trips accelerate sulphation. Users report 28-34 month lifespans despite premium brands [Elektroda, user64, post #20230780]

Do Korean batteries really last 10 years?

Some owners report 9-12 year service from Korean OEM units [Elektroda, Aleksander_01, post #20230980] Results vary; lack of cold-climate data and smaller sample sizes make predictions uncertain.

Edge case: I drive 3 km per trip—what’s the risk?

Short, cold journeys keep charge balance negative. One user’s battery failed in 3-4 months under this pattern [Elektroda, carrot, post #17903136] Weekly charger use or longer drives offset the deficit.

How should I size a battery for winter starts?

Choose the largest CCA that physically fits. CCA drops ≈0.8 % per °C below 0 °C, so a 640 A battery delivers only 512 A at −20 °C “Cold-Cranking Facts”. Oversizing builds reserve.
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