[Solved] Will the 640A inrush current be too high with the original 540A battery

Hello.

Original car had a 70 Ah 540 A battery, and now I want to buy an EXIDE PREMIUM 64 Ah / 640 A .

Question:
Is the inrush current in this case it will not be too big, i.e. these 100 A? what do you think about it in this case?

And does the PREMIUM line have access to the traffic jams after removing this flap? Do you need to drill holes for plugs in these batteries to top up or check the condition of the electrolyte? Do you recommend this company and batteries from this line / model? (if, of course, someone has contact with this type of AKU ...)

Besides, apparently:

"The greater the inrush current of the battery, the more current it can give off in a unit of time and the greater the instantaneous current consumption, for example by the starter, may be.
Meanwhile, it is worth knowing that although too high inrush current of the battery for a car is not the slightest problem, batteries with a high inrush current are (statistically) not very durable, and especially less resistant to deep discharge compared to batteries with a lower inrush current.


Do according to you 100 A for a petrol engine with a capacity of 140 HP - 2.0 vol. + quite powerful speakers + Radio with LCD - rear view camera is too much? Should I buy Aku with a lower starting current, e.g. 580 A? Is 640 A still normal and there will be no problems as above?


Thanks in advance for any helpful feedback - best regards.

In my opinion, it is no problem that you have more inrush current on the new battery. It's important that you have the same Ah.

piachu1994 wrote:

It is important that you have the same amount of Ah.

Hello, supposedly if there is no big difference between the AKU at Ah, and in this case it is so, i.e. 70Ah and 640Ah.... then such a battery would also be a good choice , but I do not have 100% certainty with this theory.

Greetings!

Which car do you want to put it in?

Electrobot wrote:

will the start-up prod in this case be too large, i.e. the 100A? what do you think about it in this case?

You don't really understand what an inrush current is.

I know what it is, but I have no specialist knowledge about the difference-result of 100A on the influence of electrics in relation to 540A (as suggested by the manufacturer in the specification) from 640A.

Hence my post, because I have concerns whether it will not cause problems - I still have the choice to buy - Battery with Capacity / Ah / 62, and Cold-start current according to EN / A / 540, but not with the Premium line, where I have less warranty plus possible that it couldn't last any longer.

greetings

E there, he understands, he understands. Only if I do not want to boil the LEDs in the alternator, let him throw out this power-hungry LCD reversing camera.

Aleksander_01 wrote:

Only if I do not want to boil the LEDs in the alternator, let him throw out this power-hungry LCD reversing camera.

Thanks for your attention, I will check how much energy the camera consumes because the LCD is a different fairy tale, because I have a touch function on it.

If it was 70 Ah, I would choose the same or a bit more, up to 80Ah if it fits.
The greater the inrush current, the greater the reserve for the starter.
Premium does not have cell access, and neither does the Futura Centra twin.
Access to cells has always been in the Excel series (Centers Plus), probably still is, if nothing has changed recently.

adse wrote:

If it was 70 Ah, I would choose the same or a bit more, up to 80Ah if it fits.

Premium does not have cell access, and neither does the Futura Centra twin.
Access to cells has always been in the Excel series (Centers Plus), probably still is, if nothing has changed recently.

Will this "Larger inrush current means greater reserve for the starter" in your opinion will not have a bad effect at a difference of 100A?

Before, I had 62Ah on 510A and it was good ... 7 years the battery worked nicely and maybe it has been discharged up to 5 times in this career but I will keep it in mind, thanks for helpful answers!

This is also recommended by ASO and people from the akumlatorow industry, i.e. that they mount them and are in line with the parameters, although lower Ah
and if he can reach the target after removing the flap, it would be great, although he has a lower Ah by 20Ah.

Electrobot wrote:

Will this "Larger inrush current means greater reserve for the starter" in your opinion will not have a bad effect at a difference of 100A?

There is no receiver in your car that would consume half of this current. You don't understand the flow of electricity.

For example, you connect a receiver with a power of e.g. 100W I = P: U 100W: 12V = 8.3 A to the battery

It's not like you understand that the battery gives a current of 640 A to a 100W receiver. It is the receiver that draws the current depending on its power.

Electrobot wrote:

the original car had a 700Ah 540A battery, and now wants to buy EXIDE PREMIUM 64Ah / 640A.

No, I'm not picking on, but 700Ah and 64Ah, something is wrong here.

Author of the topic,
inrush current indicated on the battery is the maximum current that can be consumed by the receiver connected to the battery. The higher the value of this current, the better for the battery and for the starter - the battery will be less "strained" when starting, and the starter will receive an appropriate "dose" of current.

Batteries with high starting current are usually recommended for cars with a diesel engine. You have a gasoline engine, but with a fairly large capacity, so I think that buying a battery with a higher starting current is a very good choice.

In fact, the fact that you have a rear-view camera and powerful audio equipment is not important for the inrush current value, for example. In this case, the capacity of the battery is more important, so that you do not drain the battery quickly when stationary with the engine off. However, with the capacity, I advise you carefully, it is not recommended to install a battery with a larger capacity as it may turn out that the alternator will not be able to recharge it.

PS. Of course, do not worry about this "boiling" of the LEDs by the reversing camera, this is clearly not a funny joke ...

supermario87 wrote:

(...) it is not recommended to install a battery with a larger capacity as it may turn out that the alternator will not be able to recharge it.

Why?

A larger battery needs more charging current. If the car has a low current capacity alternator, it will take longer to recharge the large battery. If you drive short distances daily and start the engine frequently, the battery will use more energy than it is supplied with.

supermario87 wrote:

If you drive short distances daily and start the engine frequently, the battery will use more energy than it is supplied with.

supermario87 wrote:

A larger battery needs more charging current.

So big batteries eat electricity? With a large or small accumulator, the energy balance + interest must be kept. The difference is that a larger battery can absorb this energy faster.

Quote:

A larger battery needs more charging current

If it's time, not electricity - of course, if we discharge it significantly.
With the normal use of the car, when everything is operational, it does not matter whether we use a 70 or 1000Ah battery (as long as it will fit )

Hehe, and again there are nonsense posts about undercharging the battery with a larger capacity.

enhanced wrote:

Nonsense posts about undercharging a higher capacity battery are starting again

Well, it's time to straighten them again:

The inrush current is the maximum current that can be safely drawn from the battery, the starter decides how much it will take. Your starter is probably about 2 kW, so the starting current is about 170 A (+ current consumption by the "rest" of the car), anyway it is less than 400 A, let's assume 350 A. So, will you install a battery with a starting current of 540? And, or 640 A, max 350 A will flow in the circuit. However, with discharging and aging of the battery, its internal resistance increases, and therefore the inrush current decreases. So the one with a higher nominal current should be enough for a longer time (it will be able to provide the 350 A of starting current needed in your car for longer).

Battery capacity and charging - the car's energy balance must be positive, it does not matter whether you use 50 Ah or 90 Ah - if the balance is negative, you will have to recharge the battery. A smaller battery will be recharged a bit faster, although the start-up will take the same amount of energy, regardless of the rated capacity of the battery (i.e. the same charge will be required to be refilled). The smaller battery will be discharged deeper during this start-up and the voltage will drop more, which will result in a higher initial charge current and thus a faster battery charge. Nevertheless, this theory is no longer valid in the age of "intelligent" alternators. That's why I always put on the largest battery that can fit.

supermario87 wrote:

A larger battery needs more charging current.

No offense, but maybe a simple example will explain that you are wrong: "From two barrels, one with a capacity of 100l and the other with a capacity of 60l, you take 30l of water from each. Will you add more water to a larger barrel than a small one to make both of them full, or the same?

vodiczka wrote:

supermario87 wrote:

A larger battery needs more charging current.

No offense, but maybe a simple example will explain that you are wrong: "From two barrels, one with a capacity of 100l and the other with a capacity of 60l, you take 30l of water from each. Will you add more water to a larger barrel than a small one to make both of them full, or the same

A good example, but there are those who will answer with the conviction that it is a bigger one. As with: which is heavier, a kilo of feathers or a kilo of bricks. I have heard and such answers, it is known that the heavier kilo of bricks. And when asked why you think so, the answer was "drop a kilo of brick on your leg and you'll find out." There is no shortage of geniuses.

I had a client who commuted 3 km to work every day (max 10 minutes, counting traffic jams), driving a Ford with a VM, diesel engine, which, even after firing the candles, was burning for a few minutes. The battery in this car lasted 3-4 months and, despite the occasional weekend recharging, it was not suitable for use. we assembled various batteries, of different capacity, manufacturers, quality and prices. The effect was the same, the energy balance in the car used in this way was always negative

tzok wrote:

starting will take the same amount of energy, regardless of the rated capacity of the battery (i.e. the same charge will be required to be refilled).

Considering the capacity - you are right. But usually a larger battery has a higher starting current - which translates into a lower voltage drop on start-up and a higher speed of the starter> i.e. faster engine start> i.e. less battery energy loss on a single start> i.e. faster charging of the battery in my mind. In addition, we can add a smaller internal resistance of a large battery, which gives a higher starting current, but at the same time forces a higher charging current. Such observations came to my mind.

When buying receivers you need to buy a larger capacity battery, you have git ... the radio you buy a 5Ah larger battery, adding LPG the same and not to mention the playing equipment, it takes more A than the entire engine equipment.
Buy as big as possible, i.e. some 80Ah bigger will not come. The inrush current has nothing to say here.

vodiczka wrote:

supermario87 wrote:

A larger battery needs more charging current.

No offense, but maybe a simple example will explain that you are wrong: "From two barrels, one with a capacity of 100l and the other with a capacity of 60l, you take 30l of water from each. Will you add more water to a larger barrel than a small one to make both of them full, or the same

This water example is very good but needs a little correction. This water is not the equivalent of a charge / discharge current, but of an electric charge drawn from the battery. Electric charge = current x time. The same electric charge was drawn from the small and large batteries. This charge can be supplemented with either a higher current in a shorter time or with a lower current in a correspondingly longer time.
The maximum charging current, in turn, is limited on the one hand by the power of the alternator and, on the other hand, by the size and active area of the battery electrodes. If we assume that the alternator has the right power and current efficiency, then a large battery with a larger active electrode area will replenish its charge faster than a small battery. Of course, this comes with the initial, higher charging current that the alternator must provide.
Also supermario87 statement:

supermario87 wrote:

A larger battery needs more charging current.

it is not entirely meaningless.

Electrobot wrote:

The car originally had a 700 Ah 540 A battery

Change it to the correct size, because with this capacity you probably have to carry it in a trailer.
You want to use one with a lower capacity, it is a mistake (I think it was 70Ah) better with the same capacity, or slightly higher, as you have already been prompted.

supermario87 wrote:

A larger battery needs more charging current. If the car has a low current capacity alternator, it will take longer to recharge the large battery. If you drive short distances daily and start the engine frequently, the battery will use more energy than it is supplied with.

I agree 100% with this and in my opinion it is an important factor when choosing a Battery.

kazikszach wrote:

Electrobot wrote:

The car originally had a 70 Ah 540 A battery

Change it to the correct size, because with this capacity you probably have to carry it in a trailer.
You want to use one with a lower capacity, it is a mistake (I think it was 70Ah) better with the same capacity, or slightly higher, as you have already been prompted.

Unfortunately, but you are wrong, because just such a size was aku and I will surprise you! this battery had Asian dimensions ... I have thousands of photo files somewhere, I will try to find and upload.



In addition to the battery and its capacity ... from what I also know, there should be a power selection tolerance of 15% (up-down) for Capacity (of course, if we do not have a greater load in the car), what do you think about this theory ?

And as for the start-up, it probably does not apply to her, although now I had an older 510A battery and it worked stably for 7 YEARS! in the original should be.

For this, according to the battery selection application of manufacturers / leading and not only ... and after WIN (where the main goal is information about the original version of the battery from the production line), this theory would agree 15% - and if not, then according to their selection / of the guidelines, it turns out that most of the proposed batteries for customers are inconsistent hehe ... and thousands of people ride on badly selected batteries? ... how is it finally, according to people who speak about it, i.e. to stick to 70Ah and the starting current, the more the better?


For my part, I would like to add that from all that I have read, I still have chaos in my head as to the correct selection of the battery in my case and I propose that I can now determine the closest certain value when selecting the battery - i.e. ordinary lead-acid in this case assuming the value of mine - from the original where it had [Capacity 70 Ah / Startup 540 A]

and what is very important in my opinion, bearing in mind such issues as ---> alternator - starter - car is functional / does not pull current for some reason - assuming that the equipment is standard without loads of various masses, such as powerful speakers, amplifier, 2 cameras plus recorders and other sensors, etc. - or short-circuits - in one sentence: HEALTHY AUTO (installation) against the background of power supply and consumption .


Another issue is the fact that I care about the battery, which has access to the cells / plugs, the more that the aerometer in this type of batteries is the best patient diagnostician ... and as adse Excell wrote (for which, thanks a lot!) and I still have it under the cover - although I'm still checking the topic at 100%. So, rather, Premium (although it is probably of better quality, and has a 3-year warranty) will give up.

Regards!

Electrobot wrote:

according to their selection / guidelines, it turns out that most of the proposed batteries for customers are inconsistent hehe ... and thousands of people ride on wrongly selected batteries? ...

Because customers know better what to have in their car, and when I tell them that there are climatic zones for the batteries, that the capacity depends on the car's equipment, they make eyes like 2 zlotys.

Definitely 70 Ah, not 700 Ah 700 Ah would be the size of a bulky suitcase and weigh several hundred kg.

Electrobot wrote:

as for the start-up, it probably does not apply to her, although now I had an older 510A battery and it worked stably for 7 years! in the original should be.

There is a certain tolerance and the batteries, especially in older cars, were not tightly matched. Do not assume that any battery you buy now will last as much as the one from the first installation.

Parameters are just a matter of price (and weight / size) - it's like with a PC power supply, if a PC needs 280W, you can insert a 300W power supply and it will work, but if you put in 1000W it will also work and in both cases it will take the same amount of power from networks. Only the first one will refuse to obey when you add something to the computer or when its parameters deteriorate a little over time. An even more extreme case, if you take an electronic watch or a calculator powered by an LR44 battery and connect it, for example, with an R20, it will also work and no harm will be done to it.

tzok wrote:

Definitely 70 Ah, not 700 Ah 700 Ah would be the size of a bulky suitcase and weigh several hundred kg.

Fact one zero too much I corrected, but the one who does nothing is not mistaken. Thanks for correcting me and observing me!

Besides, what would you choose the battery in my place, knowing that the car manufacturer adjusted it to 70Ah and 540A?
I found the original one here is him ;)