How to connect two wires together?

What do you think about connecting lines with crimp ferrules? And then, of course, the thermo tube. It is about connecting both 230V and low voltage cables - e.g. temperature sensors.

Best regards.

spec220 wrote:

To be honest, this is the first time I have met on the forum a person who welds the installation at home, and for the first time someone who saves time and money on renovation in their OWN HOME

Buddy, you're twisting the meaning of my speech a little. You still do not accept that the welded connection is reliable, because you simply did not do it and you DO NOT KNOW (not only you) how it should be done correctly ... As I wrote in my father, for 40 years even the light bulb did not flash due to "backlash". This is not the first time someone who does differently does not acknowledge that there are other faster and more efficient installation methods, and at the same time do not write to me about saving, because I have already improved economical installations and to this day they are grateful to me for it, because after other electricians who repaired by traditional methods, the problem returned after a month or so while baking pancakes
I don't have to prove to you that the welded connection is the safest. There is NO chance of sparking a connection that will not be fully provided by a cube, twisted pair or even ordinary soldering if the tin melts under the influence of temperature, and I have already encountered something like this (probably this is what your spring is for, which is to protect against it). Can there be anything better in this situation for conductivity in a given material than permanent contact of two identical materials over a relatively large surface? If you say that it may be otherwise, take the measurements yourself and see for yourself
Aaaa, and you have never seen something like this in installations, because you just rotate in other circles
I will have a moment, maybe I will insert a short video on how this connection is properly made.

But buddy @ spec220 , no additional filler is used for welding, only two twisted copper wires are fused together along the entire length of the "twisted pair", not the end itself.

You can also weld with a laser.

kkkamil wrote:

What do you think about connecting lines with crimp ferrules? And then, of course, the thermo tube. It is about connecting both 230V and low voltage cables - e.g. temperature sensors.

I really don't like the use of crimp ferrules. WAGO prefers to connect lines. There is too much fun with the sleeves, then the effect is usually weak and I have to do it all over again. Maybe I'm doing something wrong. I do not know. I do not trust 2 wires in 1 sleeve (most often it does not withstand a tear test). I try to avoid connecting wires like fire.

I sometimes use crimp sleeves to connect the cord to various types of devices with various clamps. And here comes my question.
What methods do you use to connect the cable to e.g. a relay?
I am happy when I only have a line in the signal wires, then I can allow myself to tin-plated and not use sleeves, to which I am a bit allergic (because to do it well, it takes me 3 times longer than tinning). And then it turns out that the clamp of the apparatus is not adapted to accept the sleeve.

Second question: How do you handle the connection of, for example, 3 wires in the switchgear?
WAGO seems to be the answer to how to do it at a reasonable price and form, but I have seen few such boxes. In addition, WAGO is only suitable for small cross sections. At higher currents, there are ZUGs, but I have never seen someone in the box on them somehow cleverly solved the connection of, for example, 3 wires with higher cross-sections. These flat connectors are quite often used on fuses, but the wires are not always separated here.

pawel1148 wrote:

then I can allow myself to tin-plated and not to use sleeves, to which I am a bit allergic (because to do it well, it takes me 3 times longer than tinning

And I did exactly the opposite. I used to tin tips, now I have switched to sleeves. I have a press that clamps into a hexagon and no problem. And the robot goes 3 times faster than soldering. Good tin also costs its own, and the sleeves are cheaper. For example, for 1.5 mm? I pay 2.8 PLN / 100 pcs.

pawel1148 wrote:

In addition, WAGO is only suitable for small cross sections. At higher currents, there are ZUGs, but I have never seen someone in the box on them somehow cleverly solved the connection of, for example, 3 wires with higher cross-sections.

They are WAGO with a lever version up to 6mm2 and current up to 32A. Not much change compared to 4mm2, but still.
If you are a pedant, there are DIN rail mounts in which you put WAGO (but only those up to 4mm2).

Finish this topic now, because it no longer leads to anything but an ego-raising towards others.

metalMANiu wrote:

They are WAGO with a lever version up to 6mm2 and current up to 32A. Not much change compared to 4mm2, but still.
If you are a pedant, there are DIN rail mounts in which you put WAGO (but only those up to 4mm2).

After all, there are Wago connectors designed for direct mounting on a DIN rail, up to 35mm? and with a current of 85A.

Piotrek#G wrote:

metalMANiu wrote:

They are WAGO with a lever version up to 6mm2 and current up to 32A. Not much change compared to 4mm2, but still.
If you are a pedant, there are DIN rail mounts in which you put WAGO (but only those up to 4mm2).

After all, there are Wago connectors designed for direct mounting on a DIN rail, up to 35mm? and with a current of 85A.

Sure, but we talked about WAGO with a lever.

In 9/2019 "Apa automatatyka - components, applications", in the "Market report" section, there is an interesting article entitled "Low voltage connectors and apparatus". Description of who and what produces / trades in this matter - in relation to the topic of the thread.
https://automatykab2b.pl/raporty/47718-osprzet-elektroinstalacyjny-aparatura-nn-raport-rynek

I do not use any cubes and other inventions. Simple twisted pair and insulation meet all the requirements

I'm for. Wago may be simple to apply, but it takes up a lot of space (someone try to fit 4 Wago connectors connecting 4 cables by 4 wires in a standard flush-mounted box), besides, it is a flexible connector - susceptible to loosening.

Now sometimes the strands are pushed with a hammer with a handle. I solder the strands.

kotbury wrote:

Besides, it is a flexible joint - susceptible to loosening.

Probably the elastic connection is more resistant to loosening. The spring ensures constant pressure all the time, compensating for any looseness that may result from various reasons.

Good soldering also meets the requirements, but I still prefer the so-called fishing twisted pair, it will break or loosen only when short-circuited

alfazulu wrote:

it will not break or loosen until a short circuit occurs

Well, the welded one will not loosen even with vibration, let alone short circuit

maybe that's right, but so far I have not seen a welded installation, I will stay with my twisted pair, for example, such insulation for insulation / fishing knot / passes the exam and failure-free

Hello . And I will ask myself how to connect 3 wires ?
I have to make a connection of copper wires 2,5mm2 (from earth cable YDY3x3,5mm2) .
I should connect the wires 2+1 as in the diagram . As reliable connection as possible ( possible in the field without access to electricity ) . Connection then no longer available . Maybe not going directly into the soil . But high exposure to moisture . The insulation itself I envisage with heat shrinkable tubes with glue .
first the individual wires R , N , PE , and then all together in a common T-shirt . I am building a 140 m long garden light with 10 light points.

Maciej_F wrote:

Hello . And I will ask myself how to connect 3 wires ?
I have to make a connection of copper wires 2,5mm2 (from earth cable YDY3x3,5mm2) .
I should connect the wires 2+1 as in the diagram . As reliable connection as possible ( possible in the field without access to electricity ) . Connection then no longer available . Maybe not going directly into the soil . But high exposure to moisture . The insulation itself I envisage from heat shrinkable tubes with glue .
first the individual wires R , N , PE , and then all together in a common T-shirt . He is building a 140 m long garden light with 10 light points

WAGO bridges.

@ghost666 Nonsense. Either a press, which is complicated, however, for someone who has not done such connections, or soldering, however, and a distance of 140m , is not an insurmountable distance for an extension cable/, or several extension cables.

You could also use heat shrink sleeves with low-temperature solder, this can even be heated with a normal lighter, and the whole connection in a gel can for safety.

Wago cubes drop out in the run-up : no room in the cube and no hermeticity . I'm not saying that there isn't a current in the hectare and I can play around with it. I am not saying that there is no current in a hectare and I can play with soldering. I have not worked with a crimper. But if you buy 100 bushings, I can break half of them.
Solder not solder , crimp not crimp .
As the classic said : Bytku nebytku oto je pytanko .

I once mentioned a video, today it gives a quick demonstration of what it looks like. You can weld more than two wires and I assure you that the connection will survive anything. Twisting the ends is basically just so that they don't come apart during welding, and besides, when they are twisted, you can already do a preliminary test of the installation, i.e. whether the current flows where it is supposed to flow as intended.




I was welding and recording at the same time, which was not convenient, so the process looks a bit lopsided, but the essence of welding is clearly visible. You can weld more than two wires - the only limitation is the capacity of the power supply trafo. Personally, I welded a maximum of four (no need for more).

Maciej_F wrote:

Wago bridges are out of the running : there is no space in the wire and it does not provide airtightness .

I advise against hiding connections in the wire.
Although on the whole, what can happen there?
Well, sometimes it can.
A colleague wrote about a can of gel. I think that is a good way to go. There are also tiny cans for exactly one wago connector.

I would like to add a word about "silicone" (as someone wrote) - there were many posts about pouring it on joints. Classical building silicone is as good as gold for this - it is highly acidic - the copper turns green in the eyes, moreover under the influence of humidity or UV it does not get very tight "grease" which can be removed with a stick.
In several repairs of construction machinery I have invested in an acid-free grout (for 100 PLN a 250g tube), if there is room - a telecommunications-type socket with a "built-in" sealant, but most often - for the wiring of powered gates (sometimes underground) - a socket made of peszel, soldered connection, individual wires insulated with heat shrink sleeves with glue and the whole flooded with polyethylene thermoglut - a connection that lasts forever.