[Solved] Best Non-Microprocessor Chargers for Christmas Gift: Top Simple & DIY Repairable Models

retrofood wrote:

The charging current depends primarily on the condition of the battery, the markings on the charger are approximate. So the allegation is unfounded.

I knew the condition of the batteries, the charger gave max. 10 A and it was overheating, I had to cut the electricity by half !!! ???.
The markings on the rectifier may be approximate, but the correct 15A device is supposed to provide 10A current and it gives 5A what it shows, the paper is patient, marketing is on top, I just hope that Mr. Kukla's current devices still do not have this disadvantage.

Interno wrote:

retrofood wrote:

The charging current depends primarily on the condition of the battery, the markings on the charger are approximate. So the allegation is unfounded.

I knew the condition of the batteries, the charger gave max. 10 A and it was overheating, I had to cut the electricity by half !!! ???.
The markings on the rectifier may be approximate, but the correct 15A device is supposed to provide 10A current and it gives 5A what it shows, the paper is patient, marketing is on top, I just hope that Mr. Kukla's current devices still do not have this disadvantage.

Stop beating the foam. The topic is about the charger (s) for charging (recharging) the batteries in the car, so do not invent square circles.

retrofood wrote:

kkknc wrote:

retrofood wrote:

The charging current depends primarily on the condition of the battery, the markings on the charger are approximate. So the allegation is unfounded.

The charging current depends on the voltage .........
The greater the potential difference, the greater the current.

Imagine I know Ohm's Law. But the charger is designed to charge various batteries, so the indications of the amount of the charging current at its control knob are only indicative, because it is not known what is connected at the output, i.e. what (internal) resistance you are connecting.

That you know Ohm's Law I did not doubt for a moment. And on the knob of these ordinary rectifiers, you only have a mini-max. You have no current marking. Only more advanced rectifiers with real current regulation can do that. But it will only be compatible with a flat battery. When it is charged, you will not press 10A into it without increasing the voltage. Apart from the obvious pointlessness of increasing the voltage in such conditions and the torture of the battery. But you know that too.

kkknc wrote:

And on the knob of these ordinary rectifiers, you only have a mini-max. You have no current marking.

There are (sometimes) markings at the gradual (step) adjustment knobs, but not always. Most manufacturers, however, try to equip even the simplest rectifiers with at least an indicator ammeter.

kkknc wrote:

When it is charged, you will not press 10A into it without increasing the voltage. Apart from the obvious pointlessness of increasing the voltage in such conditions and the torture of the battery.

Exactly. First of all, difficult, otherwise it makes no sense. Exceeding the tension only to make it gassy can be done with open cells and very stuffed pockets of the owner.

retrofood wrote:

1. No rectifier "does" the electrolyte density, get the concept out of your head.
2. Se search. And on the curve I put in, read the voltage at which gassing occurs, i.e. the distribution of water, and compare it with what you advertise for closed car batteries.

You have no idea about the use of batteries, it must be made clear.

Well, SE, we talked. YOU know yours.
I will not write anymore and look at this topic, in total, I was interested in the argumentation and praise of the CTEK MXS5 device, but I wanted to clarify how much and what battery was charged by the user, I was able to recharge the battery after 24 hours, so bad for such an advertised device.
AND THAT WAS THE ONLY REASON THAT I WRITTEN SOMETHING ABOUT THIS SUBJECT.

I would advise all producers of pseudo-chargers-rectifiers to clearly mark the DEVICE FOR CHARGING THE BATTERY, not for charging it, and that's it for this topic.
Sorry to all reading these unnecessary deliberations.
At the same time, I have to admit that I know the condition of my batteries very well and I have professional devices for their control, discharge and charging, here I beat my chest, I lied, I am a professional with 40 years of experience.
I did not want to upset anyone and make anyone complex.
Best regards and I wish you all peace of mind.

We come to the heart of the matter, gentlemen. The transformers in these rectifiers work at the limit of their efficiency. The so-called short-circuit current. There can be no relationship between the resistance current and voltage. It's good that some of them have security or they would get burned. Something that weighs a kilogram with a housing will not give 15A of electricity.

Interno wrote:

I would advise all producers of pseudo-chargers-rectifiers to clearly mark the DEVICE FOR CHARGING THE BATTERY, not for charging it, and that's it for this topic.

And very well. Because this is not a topic about formation, nor charged the battery.

Such a market Absaar 11 will fully charge the battery ("it will make density"), because the voltage on a low current reaches over 16V, but the electrolyte then gasses. So if you leave it overnight, a relatively new battery will last and be charged in the morning. Worse, when it is two or three years old - this type of loading may lead to a rapid decline of the active mass. I suspect, however, that the rectifiers of the Polish brands recommended here will do exactly the same. Unfortunately, the testers publishing tests on the net are not yet able to check how much of the battery life (or what percentage of durability) one "making density" takes, for example with the tested and praised Stefpol.

I bought a rectifier of Polish production with smooth current regulation, 6V / 12V 15A.