Czy wolisz polską wersję strony elektroda?
Nie, dziękuję Przekieruj mnie tamzybex wrote:I would like to buy a rectifier for Christmas,
krisss22 wrote:I have one and it's very nice
CTEK MXS 5.0 56-998 charger
zybex wrote:Today I noticed such a rectifier in a certain supermarket.
11A rectifier from the German brand Absaar. Ideal for charging 12 V lead-acid batteries from 25 Ah to 120 Ah.
The charger is very easy to use and safe for the battery.
A durable metal housing protects the charger against mechanical damage.
The output current is very stable. It has protection against overcharging and overvoltage.
Input voltage: AC 220V - 240V / 50Hz.
Current (output): 11 A maximum
Charger weight approx. 3.3 kg
regulation system on 3 transistors, I think.zybex wrote:I am interested in such up to a maximum of PLN 150. Ease of use and reliability are important.
krisss22 wrote:I have one and it's very nice
CTEK MXS 5.0 56-998 charger
Interno wrote:
Is this device actually making the electrolyte density at the right level?
zybex wrote:Unfortunately (so far) I have not received a satisfactory answer and I will not buy a rectifier for a gift.
retrofood wrote:Interno wrote:
Does this device actually make the electrolyte density at the right level?
What do you think "electrolyte density" means? Because the fact that the electrolyte density changes during charging, I know. But I don't know how the rectifier does this electrolyte density "do". And how some rectifiers can "do" it, while others you doubt.
retrofood wrote:
Because it is such a simple (nomen omen) device that I do not understand what you expect.
zybex wrote:Unfortunately (so far) I have not received a satisfactory answer and I will rather not buy a rectifier for a gift. There is less and less time, and holidays are just around the corner. Therefore, the traditional pajamas and some sweets will remain.
zybex wrote:
Still, I am considering the purchase of the Kukla 15A charger, although some criticize it. Now a new model for 2020 is on sale. I even wrote to the manufacturer about this, asking what this new model is characterized by. I wonder if I'll get an answer.
Interno wrote:
I believe that the vast majority of rectifiers-chargers only recharge the battery, i.e. the voltage on the clamps, but the electrolyte density is at the level of 1.20-1.25 g / cm3 even after 24 hours of charging, which proves that the battery is still not charged.
Interno wrote:
The voltage provided by the device 14.5-15.5 V is responsible for this state, it is not enough to make the electrolyte density and thus to charge the battery.
You need a voltage above 16V, sometimes it even reaches 17V, but of course in the final phase of battery charging with decreasing current intensity, when the electrolyte is saturated to its desired density of 1.27-1.28 g / cm3.
zybex wrote:My nephew has a Kukla charger and he does not complain and often charges the batteries, ...
Interno wrote:
I set the charger knob to less, something about 50-70% of the power, but then the charging current amps went to about 4-5A, which is half of the previous charging current, which translated into the fact that the 100 Ah battery was charged for 60 hours and the other battery was 70 or 74 Ah 48 hours !!!!.
retrofood wrote:
The charging current depends primarily on the condition of the battery, the markings on the charger are approximate. So the allegation is unfounded.
zybex wrote:And that's exactly how it is. For me in frost, it is enough to connect the rectifier (the simplest model, with the factory current within 8 A) to prevent the voltage drop when the starter is turned on. The car then fires immediately, without waiting.In my opinion, when the battery fails in the morning, charging should be enough to start the car.
zybex wrote:Then a charger to the trunk and off you go. These are really sporadic situations. Anyone with a repair shop knows they should have something much better, even with a boot function.
zybex wrote:Anyone with a repair shop knows they should have something much better, even with a boot function.
kkknc wrote:retrofood wrote:
The charging current depends primarily on the condition of the battery, the markings on the charger are approximate. So the allegation is unfounded.
The charging current depends on the voltage .........
The greater the potential difference, the greater the current.
retrofood wrote:
1. An electrolyte density of 1.20 g / cm? at the end of a charge means the battery has to be discarded, not the charger.
2. Watch the loading curve and don't tell fairy tales.
Interno wrote:
1. I dare say that the vast majority of pseudo-charger-rectifiers on the market are not able to make an electrolyte density higher than 1.20-1.25 g / cm3.
2. I would like a second curve on the vertical axis A.
TL;DR: 11 A transformer chargers under PLN 150 can fully recharge 25-120 Ah lead-acid batteries, yet “a battery charger is the simplest thing in the world” [Elektroda, zybex, #18317499; Elektroda, Mierzejewski46, #18338551]. Why it matters: Picking a non-microprocessor model you can fix ensures winter starts and long-term serviceability.
• Budget target: ≤ PLN 150, set by the buyer [Elektroda, zybex, post #18312544] • Recommended current for 120 Ah SUV battery: 10–15 A [Elektroda, retrofood, post #18312564] • Absaar 11 A charger: 25-120 Ah range, 3.3 kg metal case [Elektroda, zybex, post #18317499] • CTEK MXS 5.0 covers 1.2-110 Ah at 5 A max [Elektroda, krisss22, post #18312372] • Typical safe charge rate: 0.1 C (10 % of capacity) [BatteryUniversity, “BU-403”]
