ROYA LUX RLX-1201 Infrared Motion Sensor Repair: Continuous Lighting & Regulation Issues

Hello
I kindly ask for help in repairing the ROYA LUX Infrared Sensor RLX-1201 motion sensor. I don't have a scheme of operation, small components, maybe I will find here kind and professional help in repairing it, for which I would like to thank you right away. The lamp manufacturer does not accept sensors for repair, especially after the lamp warranty has expired. The problem concerns the continuous lighting of the lamp, and the sensor not responding to light or time regulation.
What could be the reason for this problem and what components should be replaced, possibly how and what to check in this motion sensor? Tips are best in terms of pathology, I'm only fundamentally oriented in electronics, and I really care for the sensor to work again. I attach photos of the sensor (one of the photos shows the power supply for this sensor and lamp).
Please help.

Start by checking the relay with an ohmmeter, the contacts may have stuck.

From the pictures you can not see exactly, but did not "spilled" the electrolytic capacitor?

Thank you for contact.
volt1, how to check the relay with an ohmmeter, do I have to desolder it? I am asking for operating instructions and thank you in advance for all the pathological tips.

Krzychu7, the electrolyte did not spill it is a small coil, so they secured it with silicone glue from above. If necessary, I will take additional photos from the side.

You do not need to desolder. You need to check if there is a transition between the marked places. If it is, it means the contacts are stuck together.

I checked the February legs on the meter, i.e. the diode signal and there is no transition, i.e. a short circuit signal.
What and how else could you check?

Maybe someone had a similar problem with this sensor and knows what to do with it and what parts to check or replace to make it work?

Meter for measuring resistance and check the potentiometers whether they work (of course, measurements with the sensor off).

E8600, thank you for the tip. Can I check these burn time regulators and light sensor without desoldering, or is it better to desolder them to see if they react to changes during their adjustment in plus and minus?

You can check without desoldering if the resistance changes, how it turns.

I checked and both potentiometers react the same to adjustments. In the extreme i.e. upper and lower position there are other values, of which in the lower zero. What could be checked or replaced next? Please help.

Check SMD transistors for short circuits and look for cold solder.

Do I need to desolder them to check these SMD transistors so that there are no distortions? I see two.

I checked by desoldering these transistors and they are functional. What else could you check?

- Searching for cold solders (improve all suspicious connections);
- Place a functioning / checked electrolytic capacitor behind the rectifier bridge;
- Under this capacitor, there is probably a fuse resistor 0 (a transition should be functional);
Having everything on the table checks everything in turn, ending with checking the control systems, comparing the input and output voltages with the catalog note.

I remind the system is powered by 250 V, so without proper knowledge / practice and without taking precautions it is better to refrain from repairs for your own safety.

OK thank you for the information. No pattern, I can't trace at least anywhere. Powered by led power supply with reduction to 40-80V DC.
quotation: "Under this capacitor there is probably a fuse resistor number 0 (a transition should be functional);"
I understand that this is black with a white stripe. Do I have to desolder it to check it and should there be a signal of a return trip or only one on the diode measurement?

It is about the element marked in the picture and it is checked without desoldering, it should have a transition in both directions.

Really weird stuff. Resistor 0 is functional and there is a double-sided transition, I also checked the MB6S rectifier bridge and it is functional, in addition so. cold solders are missing.
Is it possible and how would it be possible that the only electrolytic capacitor in this sensor has such an effect that the sensor does not turn on?
Either way, I need to order a new polarized electrolytic capacitor when it arrives, I will swap it - though it doesn't look damaged in any way.

I am asking for further hints and help, what could be checked / replaced by this sensor until then, and it may be faulty, preferably from my own experience with motion sensors.

Is there any way to check sensor / SENSOR / PIR W216S?

E8600, however, you are right. The power supply of this system is 240V AC, only after leaving this system goes to a 40-80V DC power supply.
Capacitor 47uF / 35V ordered, but it doesn't really look like something is wrong with it.
Most likely, the cause of the fault must be somewhere else, maybe someone will tell you what else could be checked here?

I used to have the same fault, but in a different sensor.
After replacing the PIR sensor, it started to work properly.

Krzychu7, thanks for the tip, but here comes another problem and the question where to buy such a P2 W216S PIR sensor, because nowhere in the detail can I find this sensor to buy.

The fault is so serious that it cannot be rectified. The lamp as all specialists and consultants have stated must go to utilization. Please close the thread.