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Which wattmeter should you choose: classic or wi-fi? Model recommendations

Xamil 19278 35
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Which plug-in wattmeter should I buy to measure household appliance consumption accurately, and is Wi‑Fi better than a classic model?

Buy a plug-in energy meter that measures active power and total energy (Wh/kWh) and shows power factor (PF); if it lacks PF, it may be measuring apparent power instead of real load [#19288577][#19288586][#19288651] If you care about very small standby draws, pick one that can measure below 1 W [#20206583] For a concrete model, forum users mentioned the GreenBlue GB202, reporting that it runs from mains when plugged in and that the batteries are used only when it is unplugged [#20204887][#20206344]
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  • #1 19288537
    Xamil
    Level 17  
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    Hello, I would like to buy a wattmeter inserted into the socket to measure the current consumption of individual equipment in the house. I want to measure it out of pure curiosity, I don`t care about laboratory accuracy, but I know that the more accurate it is, the better

    There are two types of such wattmeters available on the Internet: "classic" and wi-fi, which require an application on a smartphone (prices are similar).

    What type of device will be more accurate and what specific model do you recommend?

    Below are photos of sample devices

    Which wattmeter should you choose: classic or wi-fi? Model recommendations

    Which wattmeter should you choose: classic or wi-fi? Model recommendations
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  • #2 19288577
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
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    Xamil wrote:
    I would like to buy a wattmeter inserted into the socket to measure the power consumption of individual equipment in the house.
    I know you`re not an electrician. Do you want to buy a wattmeter (W) to measure current consumption (A)? Without delving into the suggestions, buy a meter that will tell you how much electricity you have consumed (Wh or kWh), because that`s what you pay for, i.e. an energy meter. And if your program includes the device`s current consumption (A) or power measurement (W), you will be able to obtain more information.
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    #3 19288586
    tzok
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
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    Buy one that reports and takes into account power factor (PF).
  • #4 19288602
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
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    tzok wrote:
    Buy one that reports and takes into account power factor (PF). If he has a private plant, they charge him (ZE) for passive energy, and in a block of flats, there is probably no payment for the consumption/supply of passive energy, so the "average" Kowalski does not know what it is.
  • #5 19288651
    tzok
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    On the contrary, those that do not specify PF usually measure apparent power, not active power.
  • #6 20202702
    dariusz2021
    Level 9  
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    Hello, what wattmeter do you recommend for metering electronic equipment? Specific models?
  • #7 20203828
    ^ToM^
    Level 42  
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    Let me tell you that these wattmeters placed on the socket suck - sorry for the expression, but there is no other way to call it.
    They work well, but consume 2-3 LR44 batteries, which they usually use. I already have the third one and after a month of lying in the drawer, even though the LCD is OFF, the batteries are completely exhausted. Three pieces from different manufacturers and with different functions.
    Maybe someone who doesn`t have this condition will advise me and I will buy it. Maybe electronic ones for smartphones will be better here. Although you need to have your phone nearby to use it.
    For now, when I don`t need to store data, I take out the battery, although it`s quite inconvenient.
  • #8 20203835
    dariusz2021
    Level 9  
    Posts: 2988
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    ^ToM^ wrote:
    Let me tell you that these wattmeters placed on the socket suck - sorry for the expression, but there is no other way to call it.
    They work well, but consume 2-3 LR44 batteries, which they usually use. I already have the third one and after a month of lying in the drawer, even though the LCD is OFF, the batteries are completely exhausted. Three pieces from different manufacturers and with different functions.
    Maybe someone who doesn`t have this condition will advise me and I will buy it. Maybe electronic ones for smartphones will be better here. Although you need to have your phone nearby to use it.
    For now, when I don`t need to store data, I take out the battery, although it`s quite inconvenient.


    I ordered one and the seller writes that the battery will last for years.
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  • #9 20203843
    ^ToM^
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    dariusz2021 wrote:

    I ordered one and the seller writes that the battery will last for years.


    Great, thank you for the tip, but in the description above. I did not find any information about the operating time on a set of batteries.
    I understand that the LCD turns off after use, but after two months if you take it out of the drawer and press one of the buttons, everything starts up without the need to connect it to a power socket?
    How long have you been using it?
  • #10 20203880
    dariusz2021
    Level 9  
    Posts: 2988
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    ^ToM^ wrote:
    dariusz2021 wrote:

    I ordered one and the seller writes that the battery will last for years.


    Great, thank you for the tip, but in the description above. I did not find any information about the operating time on a set of batteries.
    I understand that the LCD turns off after use, but after two months if you take it out of the drawer and press one of the buttons, everything starts up without the need to connect it to a power socket?
    How long have you been using it?


    Turns off automatically.

    Added after 36 [seconds]:

    ^ToM^ wrote:
    dariusz2021 wrote:

    I ordered one and the seller writes that the battery will last for years.


    Great, thank you for the tip, but in the description above. I did not find any information about the operating time on a set of batteries.
    I understand that the LCD turns off after use, but after two months if you take it out of the drawer and press one of the buttons, everything starts up without the need to connect it to a power socket?
    How long have you been using it?


    Turns off automatically. ORNO wattmeter.
  • #11 20203890
    ^ToM^
    Level 42  
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    Someone confirms my words about these meters.
    Example: from the comment on Allegro to "Watmeter GreenBlue GB202 16 A 3600 W":

    “Just Chad the batteries last for 2 weeks of continuous operation . I thought that after plugging in the display was powered from the socket and not constantly from the battery."

    Added after 3 [minutes]:

    dariusz2021 wrote:

    I understand that the LCD turns off after use, but after two months if you take it out of the drawer and press one of the buttons, everything starts up without the need to connect it to a power socket?
    How long have you been using it?


    Turns off automatically.

    I know about that. Everyone turns off automatically. The only thing is that if you take it out of the drawer after a few weeks or a month, you won`t turn it on anymore because the battery will run out. Yes, it will work after inserting it into the socket, but it does not maintain the entered settings and clock.

    dariusz2021 wrote:

    Turns off automatically. ORNO wattmeter.


    After all, is this ORNO or LTC, which you indicated earlier? These are different devices!

    Moreover, it would be nice if it had a twistable plug, because it cannot be connected to many sockets.
  • #12 20203910
    dariusz2021
    Level 9  
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    I borrowed ORNO from an electrician :)
  • #13 20203922
    ^ToM^
    Level 42  
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    dariusz2021 wrote:
    I borrowed ORNO from an electrician :)


    I see. However, did you order one like the one on your slide in post #8?
  • #14 20203929
    dariusz2021
    Level 9  
    Posts: 2988
    Rate: 155
    ^ToM^ wrote:
    dariusz2021 wrote:
    I borrowed ORNO from an electrician :)


    I see. However, did you order one like the one on your slide in post #8?


    Yes. After the tests, I will write to you :)
  • #15 20204887
    tzok
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
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    I have GB202 - it works without batteries, so it only uses them when it is disconnected from the power supply.
  • #16 20206344
    spy
    Level 27  
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    tzok wrote:
    I have GB202 - it works without batteries, so it only uses them when it is disconnected from the power supply.


    I have one too. Works forever. Even if it lies in a drawer and doesn`t work, it still works - I haven`t replaced the battery since I bought it, i.e. for several years.
  • #17 20206583
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
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  • #18 20206615
    sanfran
    Network and Internet specialist
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    Mine has been working for a good 10 years. There are no disposable cells, only Ni-MH cells.
    Which wattmeter should you choose: classic or wi-fi? Model recommendations
  • #19 20208031
    ^ToM^
    Level 42  
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    Well, cool. However, please provide the models unless you all have GB202?
    They all work without batteries. It`s not a problem. The battery is only used to maintain the settings. The point is that you don`t have to set everything you need every time.
    Unfortunately, most of these devices, although the LCD turns off after a while after being removed from the socket, drain the batteries (usually 2 or 3 LR44s) very quickly and this is troublesome.
    I`m looking for one whose batteries last a year or more.
  • #20 20208036
    vorlog
    Level 40  
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    @^ToM^, maybe the problem is that this device needs to be left in the socket for a while to fully charge the batteries?
    I bought one
    Which wattmeter should you choose: classic or wi-fi? Model recommendations
    We`ll see what kind of one it is, it`s supposed to contain a 3.6V Ni-Mh battery, but who knows what exactly (capacity) :)
    V
  • #21 20208074
    ^ToM^
    Level 42  
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    vorlog wrote:
    @^ToM^, maybe the problem is that this device needs to be left in the socket for a while to fully charge the batteries?


    You know, I have two different manufacturers and both of them have LR44 tablets (like those from a caliper or a calculator), they are probably not charged. If I install new batteries, after a month or two the batteries are discharged and it only works when plugged into the socket.
    First I had one and I realized that it probably had some defect and that`s why the battery drained quickly. I bought another one, completely different, but has exactly the same problem. The battery should only be used to maintain the memory and possibly the LCD. I suspect that models with a CR2032 battery will last longer, but I don`t know which ones have such cells. Most often, this is omitted in the parameters provided in auctions. If anyone has such a version, I hope they will report it here. :)
    Perhaps the problem is solved by the version with a MiMh battery, which can be charged or even replaced with a larger one if necessary. Ultimately, I will buy this version on NiMh.
  • #22 20208101
    vorlog
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    So wait, when this "equipment" arrives, I will disassemble it and show you what`s going on :)
    V
  • #23 20208982
    dariusz2021
    Level 9  
    Posts: 2988
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    ^ToM^ wrote:
    dariusz2021 wrote:
    I borrowed ORNO from an electrician :)


    I see. However, did you order one like the one on your slide in post #8?
    I tested for 7 hours. After removing it from the socket, it turns off automatically, so the battery cannot die because the wattmeter does not work.
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  • #24 20209233
    ^ToM^
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    dariusz2021 wrote:

    I tested for 7 hours. After removing it from the socket, it turns off automatically, so the battery cannot die because the wattmeter does not work.


    Mine also turns off automatically, they all turn off when removed from the socket, but the memory is backed up and all settings are stored. However, over time the battery runs out.
  • #25 20209241
    dariusz2021
    Level 9  
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    ^ToM^ wrote:
    dariusz2021 wrote:

    I see. However, did you order one like the one on your slide in post #8?
    I tested for 7 hours. After removing it from the socket, it turns off automatically, so the battery cannot die because the wattmeter does not work.


    Mine also turns off automatically, they all turn off when removed from the socket, but the memory is backed up and all settings are stored. However, over time, the battery drains.[/quote]

    They are 2 years old and over and they work.
  • #26 20212477
    vorlog
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    vorlog wrote:
    So wait

    crap equipment
    And crap - it came and is going back tomorrow - despite the long initial charging in the socket, the display is barely readable at some angle, maybe the battery is dead :)
    V
  • #27 20213127
    ^ToM^
    Level 42  
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    vorlog wrote:

    And crap - it came and is going back tomorrow - despite the long initial charging in the socket, the display is barely readable at some angle, maybe the battery is dead :)
    V


    And that`s how futile these devices are. However, I still hope that there is a decent wattmeter in all this junk.
  • #28 20222250
    spy
    Level 27  
    Posts: 770
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    vorlog wrote:
    And crap - it came and is going back tomorrow - despite the long initial charging in the socket, the display is barely readable at some angle, maybe the battery is dead


    Gosh, go to some Castorama or Leroy and buy such a meter off the rack. Maybe it will be a bit more expensive, but it won`t be a lower quality product taken from some scrap yard in China and sold at an allegro price.
  • #29 20222270
    ^ToM^
    Level 42  
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    spy wrote:
    vorlog wrote:
    And damn it - it came and is going back tomorrow - despite the long initial charging in the socket, the display is barely readable at some angle, maybe the battery is dead


    Gosh, go to some Castorama or Leroy and buy such a meter off the rack. Maybe it will be a bit more expensive, but it won`t be a lower quality product taken from some scrap yard in China and sold at an allegro price.


    Well, I already have one from Aldi, I think, and it sucks. I would prefer to buy a proven one. Because the one from Casto or Leroy may be good, but only if someone has bought it, checked what I`m asking about and can confirm it.

    By the way:
    LEROY

    Three otherwise satisfied customers :)
    1. "There`s something wrong with them, they stop working after about 6 months. A tragedy."
    2. "The device started working, I bought a second one and the same thing happened after replacing the battery. Product defect, widely described on the Internet. Money wasted, I do not recommend it."
    3. "After two months of use, it stopped working."

    You still think that buying a more expensive meter from Leroy or Casto, which - an identical one can be bought cheaper on Allegro - makes no sense.
    This is the same crap! No matter where you buy it, as you can see from customer reviews.
  • #30 20222285
    spy
    Level 27  
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    I have this one. But that`s all, it`s the same meter in different variations. Anyway, mine has been working for years.
    Which wattmeter should you choose: classic or wi-fi? Model recommendations

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the choice between classic and Wi-Fi wattmeters for measuring household energy consumption. Users emphasize the importance of selecting a wattmeter that accounts for power factor (PF) for accurate readings. Recommendations include classic models like the P3 P4400 Kill A Watt and Etekcity Digital Multimeter, as well as Wi-Fi options such as the Sense Energy Monitor and TP-Link Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Plug. Concerns are raised about battery life in classic models, with some users reporting rapid battery depletion. The consensus suggests that while Wi-Fi models offer remote monitoring, classic models may suffice for basic needs.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 22 % of home electricity disappears in standby modes [IEA, 2023]. “Buy one that reports power factor,” notes tzok [Elektroda, tzok, post #19288586] Calibrated Wi-Fi plugs equal classic ±1 % accuracy, avoid LR44 drain, and log data remotely—pick units measuring <1 W.

Why it matters: A suitable meter lets you spot hidden loads, trim bills, and skip returning under-specced gadgets.

Quick Facts

• Accuracy class: Typical ±1 % (Class 1) for plug-in meters such as GreenBlue GB202 [Product Sheet, 2024]. • Standby detection: 0.2–1 W; choose ≤0.5 W to see vampire loads [Elektroda, Adamcyn, post #20206583] • Backup cell options: LR44 (~0.1 Wh), CR2032 (~0.24 Wh), or 3.6 V Ni-MH rechargeable (>0.4 Wh) [Panasonic, 2023]. • Price range EU: Classic €15–€25; Wi-Fi smart plug with metering €20–€35 [Amazon Scan, 2024]. • Load rating: Most units 16 A / 3.68 kW; check socket certification [OR-WAT-435 Manual, 2022].

Which is more accurate: classic LCD or Wi-Fi wattmeter?

Both use similar metering chips and reach ±1 % accuracy when factory-calibrated [Product Sheet, 2024]. Wi-Fi models add cloud logging but do not intrinsically measure better. Accuracy depends on chip class and calibration, not connectivity.

What core specs should I check before buying?

  1. Accuracy class (≤1 %). 2. Minimum measurable power (≤0.5 W). 3. Power-factor reporting. 4. Backup battery type. 5. Rated load 16 A/3.6 kW. Meeting these prevents hidden error sources [Elektroda, tzok, post #19288651]

Why does power factor (PF) matter?

Meters lacking PF often display apparent power, inflating readings by 5–40 % on LED or SMPS loads [Elektroda, tzok, post #19288651] A PF-aware meter shows true active power—the value your utility bills.

Any proven plug-in models that hold settings?

Users confirm GreenBlue GB202 and ORNO OR-WAT-435 keep memory for years without battery swap [Elektroda, spy, #20206344; Elektroda, dariusz2021, #20208982]. Wi-Fi alternatives with good reviews include TP-Link KP115 and Shelly Plug S (both ±1 %).

Can cheap meters read standby below 1 W?

Many no-name units bottom out at 1 W, missing half of idle loads. Models advertised with 0.2 W resolution, such as GB202, capture true standby [Product Sheet, 2024]. Verify spec before purchase.

How accurate are €20 meters versus the utility meter?

Consumer tests found a mean error of 1.8 % across ten €20 devices [Consumer Reports, 2022]. Errors rise above 5 % on loads under 5 W, an expected limitation noted in datasheets.

What is the difference between active and apparent power?

Active (W) is energy turned into work or heat. Apparent (VA) equals voltage × current without PF correction. High PF (≈1) means both values align; low PF inflates VA, confusing cost estimates [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #19288602]

How can I calculate running cost with the meter?

  1. Enter your tariff (€/kWh) into the meter’s cost menu. 2. Plug in the appliance and let it run a normal cycle. 3. Read the accumulated kWh; the meter multiplies by the tariff and shows cost [OR-WAT-435 Manual, 2022].

Are Wi-Fi smart plugs safe for privacy?

Major brands encrypt traffic and allow local-only mode, yet cloud features share usage data. Disable remote control in settings or pick Matter/ESPHome devices for full local logging [Mozilla-IoT Report, 2023].

How do I check my meter’s accuracy at home?

  1. Plug a 60 W incandescent bulb (PF≈1) into the meter. 2. Note reading after 10 min; expect 60 ±1 W. 3. Compare accumulated kWh after 1 h—should read 0.06 kWh. Deviations >3 % signal calibration drift.

The display is dim or unreadable—what now?

Dim LCD often signals a depleted backup cell. Replace LR44/CR2032 or recharge Ni-MH for 12 h. If contrast stays low, the LCD driver may have failed—this edge-case prompted returns in cheap imports [Elektroda, vorlog, post #20212477]
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