Phase connection in the plug - which side to use when connecting the oven?

Hello all. After checking the contact through a test tube, it appears that the voltage is on the right side. I want to connect the oven and hob to the contact, my question is - Should I also connect the phase on the right side in the plug ?
Thank you and best regards
Edit: I bought the plug and cable separately as they were not at the electric cooker;(used) and I need to connect them together

In the actual connection of an appliance operating on AC voltage, it does not matter whether the phase is on the right or on the left. It is more important to choose the right wires, fuses and connect them correctly. Connect according to the appliance diagram.

Make so that the phase is in the cooker in place of the phase wire (usually brown or black in colour) on the power strip. The most important thing is that the socket outlet has an active protection pin (correctly connected, according to the type of protection provided in the installation).

sebastiandzieslaw96 wrote:

Hello everyone. After checking the contact via a test tube, it appears that the voltage is on the right side. I want to connect the oven and hob to the contact, my question is - Should I also connect the phase on the right side in the plug ?

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It does not matter which side.

This is an old installation, contact without ground pin, building very old, 200 years old
Edit: Thank you for your answers, I already know everything, greetings

In single-phase sockets, this is not relevant.

sebastiandzieslaw96 wrote:

After checking the contact through the test tube it appears that the voltage is on the right.

Stand with your back to the contact and the phase will be on the left. .

sebastiandzieslaw96 wrote:

Contact without earth pin

And receivers in protection class I without protection, but you are most concerned about which side the phase should be on. .

sebastiandzieslaw96 wrote:

This is an old installation, contact without a ground pin, building very old, 200 years old

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The electrical system is definitely not 200 years old. Check that the fuses are only on the phase conductor (with voltage) or also on the neutral conductors (without voltage). In very old installations (not retrofitted), there were fuses on both conductors.

Hello

sebastiandzieslaw96 wrote:

I want to connect an oven to a hob contact,

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sebastiandzieslaw96 wrote:

contact without ground pin,

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The oven probably has 3 wires so plugging it in without any protection is asking for trouble.
Of course, maybe nothing will happen, but maybe....
GreetingsM.

sebastiandzieslaw96 wrote:

This is an old installation, contact without ground pin, building very old, 200 years old
Edit: Thank you for your answers, I already know everything, regards

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How are you going to solve this problem? An appliance in 1st cl protection and a socket without an active protection pin.
This is a hob oven, what power is it? What thick wires and what material, what value of protection?
Are you sure that the biggest problem is which side the phase should be?

Read the oven instructions. If it doesn't have a plug then the manufacturer may require a permanent connection or require the phase to be applied to the appropriate terminal. And as others have already mentioned, it is one of those appliances that absolutely must be earthed. How earthing can be done (neutral or independent protective earthing) depends on what type of network the building is connected to. The earthing of sockets in a TT network is forbidden. And a demountable plug is put on the wire after checking on which side the phase is in the socket to which it is to be connected. If the phase is on the right, you connect the brown wire to the pin going into the right-hand contact of the socket. There is already a diagram of such a connection and the plug-socket relationship on the electrode:
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3806527.html#gallery-2

Added after 49 [minutes]:

smax17 wrote:

In single-phase sockets this is not relevant.

It does not and cannot make a difference to appliances factory fitted with a cord with a non-removable flooded plug. May be relevant for appliances without a power cord or terminated with a cord without a plug

CYRUS2 wrote:

Tomasz Lew wrote:

A demountable plug is put on the wire after checking on which side the phase is in the socket to which it is to be connected. If the phase is on the right then you connect the brown wire to the pin going into the right-hand contact of the socket.

You are writing nonsense mate.
It doesn't matter how you connect.

I also think it doesn't matter, and that's using the simple example of a double socket with a safety pin, mounted vertically.
Let's say that in the top and bottom sockets the phase is on the right side. We will make the plug so that in the upper socket the phase is on the brown wire, but if we insert this plug into the lower socket, then on the brown wire there will be not phase, but neutaral or, if you prefer, zero.
What does matter, however, is whether this wire with the plug is properly connected in the appliance itself. And also by the example I encountered at my in-laws' house in the connection of an electric oven in a gas cooker connected to a double socket, to the lower socket - an installation with neutral. I don't know who connected it, but it functioned for years and nothing happened. When the kitchen was being painted, the plug was removed from the socket and then plugged into the top socket and the fuse flew. I happened to be there and I was interested to find out why the fuse in the lower socket was OK and the fuse in the upper socket was blown, and it turned out that in the kitchen itself, during the connection, I don't know who or when (but it must have been a professional, because my father-in-law had everything done by professionals), he had switched the PE and N conductor.

As for double sockets, I only saw today that there are some with a phase-change function. For my part, I would like to add that I had a Siemens electric clothes dryer a long time ago where, when plugged in the other way round, it switched off with an error after 10 minutes. All I had to do was to turn the plug and it worked to the end without error and every time. With this error I still sold it and it still works this way today. .

Hello.
Regarding the order of where to phase.
Immergas 2 function gas boiler. With some remodelling there. Plug was pushed into a double socket but in place next to the one that had always sat. The boiler did not light up but generated an error. 3 company professionals. One suggested the HV circuit and the control circuit were broken. The second was quite willing to replace the motherboard. Luckily the third one came with a simple screwdriver with a neon light But before he got into the basement he was already chattering about whether there had been any recent work on the electrical system.

It turned out that the phase/zero order is very important in modern devices with electronic power supply.

Greetings.

Michał_74 wrote:

Hello.
As to the order of where phase.
Immergas 2 function gas boiler. With some remodelling there. The plug was pushed into a double socket but in place next to what has always sat. The boiler did not light up but generated an error. 3 company professionals. One suggested the HV circuit and the control circuit were broken. The second was quite willing to replace the motherboard. Luckily the third one came with a simple screwdriver with a neon light But before he got into the basement he was already chattering about whether there had been any recent work on the electrical system.

It turned out that the phase/zero order is very important in modern devices with electronic power supply.

Regards.

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The cooker is a special case and yes here it does matter in other loads it should not matter - with correct design.

Michał_74 wrote:

Hello.
As to the order of where to phase.
Immergas 2 function gas boiler. With some remodelling there. The plug was pushed into a double socket but in place next to what has always sat. The boiler did not light up but generated an error. 3 company professionals. One suggested the HV circuit and the control circuit were broken. The second was quite willing to replace the motherboard. Luckily the third one came with a simple screwdriver with a neon light But before he got into the basement he was already chattering about whether there had been any recent work on the electrical system.

It turned out that the phase/zero order is very important in modern devices with electronic power supply.

Greetings.

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This is why immergas boilers have a cable without a plug. The plug is installed by the installer after checking where the phase is or connected permanently via a switch. This is the correct solution for such appliances

It is possible to meet such sockets as in #13, and is it possible to meet such:
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Hello.
So it looks like the installer screwed up at my place? And the cooker came with its own plug. I was even at the unpacking.
I don't want to go into my problem any further because I've had a lot of trouble with the company.

ta_tar wrote:

It is possible to meet such slots as in #13, and can you meet such:

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I have not encountered one and I doubt that such are produced because of this intersection

In some countries, there is a standard for which side the phase should be.
Poland, however, is not one of these countries.

If there is a plug fitted at the factory then the position of the phase in the socket should not cause problems.
But just because it shouldn't, doesn't mean at all that the manufacturer and/or distributor haven't forgotten about it, and that the device actually has some connection requirements.

If there are problems, it is usually possible to swap the connections on the connection block in the device.

With a permanent connection, of course, it matters as much as possible where you connect the phase.
L is phase, N is neutral and PE is earth. This is how it should be marked on the connection block of the appliance.

A colleague has added the plug himself, so it is essential to make sure of the correct way to connect it.

sebastiandzieslaw96 wrote:

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Edit: I bought the plug and cable separately as they were not at the electric cooker;(used) and I need to connect them

Sorry to ask, but what is the wattage of this unit?

A typical wall socket can supply 16 amps, which for 230 volts means those around 3.5 kW.
A hob with an oven is a lot.

In addition, if the installation is a two-wire system, there is often also a 1.5 mm cross-section, which according to current standards is usually protected by a 10 A overcurrent circuit breaker, so the power of the appliances should not exceed around 2.3 kW.

It is worth checking this before you start plugging in your hob and oven.

ta_tar wrote:

It is possible to meet such slots as in #13, and can you meet such:

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This is the fantasy of one who did a translation of a European standard into Polish a long time ago and arose there with drawings of his own creation, instead of the original socket diagrams. He writes about it here:
http://edwardmusial.info/pliki/jaka_wiedze_techniczna_rekomenduja_stow_elektr.pdf
read from: page 12 point 4, but I recommend the whole thing, because there is more interesting stuff. As for the socket, I haven't come across one, but there are double sockets with polarity preserved, and both have a pin on top. In the top one, of course, you won't put an angled plug but a straight or europlug

ta_tar wrote:

Can such sockets be found ?"

I don't think so, because it would complicate the socket design.
The poles are connected straight in "vertical".

Tomasz Lew wrote:

As for the socket, I have not met one, but there are double sockets with polarity preserved, and both have a pin on top. In the top one, of course, you won't put an angled plug but a straight or europlug

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In the Czech Republic it is firmly written in the regulations that the phase is on the left by the pin at the top, you can buy sockets like this at wholesalers:
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There is no problem with the angled plug in the top socket.

jdubowski wrote:

Tomasz Lew wrote:

As for the socket, I have not met one, but there are double sockets with polarity preserved, and both have a pin on top. In the top one, of course, you won't put an angled plug but a straight or europlug

.

In the Czech Republic it is firmly written in the regulations that the phase is on the left by the pin at the top, you can buy sockets like this at wholesalers:
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There is no problem with the angled plug in the upper socket.

The Czech standard ČSN 33 2000 does not define the location of the phase in single-pole plug sockets, and earlier standards that recommended such a connection were withdrawn in the Czech Republic at a similar time and for the same reasons as in Poland - non-compliance with European standards. It is written on Czech forums that there is no obligation to connect the phase on the left side. Further discussion is pointless as everything has been explained for the Nth time.
Besides, we are talking about Polish standards, and if one wanted to use typical configurations for this socket, the socket is French, not Czech, and it would be France, together with Belgium, that could have the right to determine the specific polarity. Attempts were made with the unischuko plug but ended in disagreement.

Tomasz Lew wrote:

This is the fantasy of one who made a translation of the European standard into the Polish one a long time ago and added drawings of his own creation instead of the original socket diagrams.

I just found this on the "muratordom" website in this form with a description:
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I don't know if there is any point in doctoring further on the subject of double sockets, as this has already been structurally set up by the socket manufacturer.

Murator is the same as the MA engineer from @Tomasz Lew's link, they have been making the same thing up for 30 years and want to be believed.

sebastiandzieslaw96 wrote:

Hello everyone. After checking the contact via a test tube, it appears that the voltage is on the right side. I want to connect the oven and hob to the contact, my question is - Should I also connect the phase on the right side in the plug ?
Thank you and best regards
Edit: I bought the plug and cable separately as they were not at the electric cooker;(used) and I need to connect them

.
If there was no cable, the connection should be made by a qualified electrician.

The author has lost interest in the topic. Closing.