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ESP8266 Solar Panel & 18650 Battery Charging Issue with TP4056

krawietz 7218 15
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  • #1 20161673
    krawietz
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    I have a mini station made that monitors soil moisture and weather conditions on an ESP8266 powered by an 18650 battery and a small 6W solar panel + charger on a TP4056.
    Generally the system worked for 35 days without problems until it shut down due to the battery discharging.
    The problem is that when the sun comes up and the voltage on the panel comes up, the charger does not charge the battery.
    The meter shows 7.2V on the panel and a current of 0.04A. There is a red LED on the charger showing that the battery should be charging.
    After inserting another battery (not fully charged) in today's nice sunshine, the current from the panel is 0.8A (the panel's rating is a maximum short circuit current of 0.92A) - the battery is charging with about 0.6A the rest goes to power the ESP and sensors.
    It appears that when the battery is discharged, the TP4056 does not induce charging and does not load the panel. It doesn't matter if the power to the ESP is connected or we just have the battery itself plugged into the charger.
    Anyone know if the TP4056 has it like this or if mine has gone flat? And if this type has it then what should I use instead?
    What I want is for the system to start up as soon as there is enough sunshine to start charging and power the ESP.

    Krawietz
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  • #2 20161704
    TvWidget
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    Charging a largely discharged Li-Ion battery starts with a low current. This is probably less than the current drawn by the device. For this reason, the whole thing does not start. In this case, it is necessary to disconnect the power supply from the battery and wait for it to be at least partially charged.
  • #3 20161715
    krawietz
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    TvWidget wrote:
    Charging a largely discharged Li-Ion battery starts with a small current. Probably this is less than the current drawn by the device. For this reason, the whole thing does not start. In this case, it is necessary to disconnect the power supply from the battery and wait for it to be at least partially charged.


    The voltage on the battery is 2.8V and it doesn't look like the TP4056 is trying to charge.... It doesn't matter if the ESP is plugged in or not.

    Krawietz.
  • #4 20161807
    kaczakat
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    The TP4056 is not suitable for charging from a 'bare' photovoltaic panel. The solar charger should keep an eye on not taking so much current that the voltage drops below the maximum efficiency of the photo cell, and the TP4056 will take the current as much as it has set with the resistor and the panel won't work properly, the TP5056 will detect the lack of voltage and shut down charging, and so on and so forth.
    And if it's a nice sun that can give that current more than the TP4056 requires then everything will work OK, for a while. Maybe it can be handled somehow with an additional Attiny working as a guardian of that PV voltage, but I guess it's simpler to use a dedicated module: "CN3065 Mini Solar Lithium Battery Charger Board Continuous Charge Current to 500mA Li-Po battery solar panel 2 pin JST connector".
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  • #5 20161847
    krawietz
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    Oh thanks for the hint. So will have to replace with something dedicated. This CN3065 doesn't really work for me, because the panel is 7.2V and the CN has a maximum terminal voltage of 6.5V. You'd have to put a diode in series with the panel to bring the voltage down, only that would probably introduce some loss.
    All in all, the internet is full of solutions using TP4056 for solar charging...hence my experiment using them.


    Krawietz
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  • #6 20162113
    TvWidget
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    krawietz wrote:
    The voltage on the battery is 2.8V and it doesn't look like TP4056 is trying to charge.... It does not matter if the ESP is plugged in or not.
    .
    When the voltage on the battery is below a certain limit (~2.9V) the charging current is significantly reduced. If you connect a discharged battery it will be charged but at a very low current. This is the recommended algorithm for the charger and presumably this TP4056 uses it too.
  • #7 20162137
    krawietz
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    When the voltage on the battery is below a certain limit (~2.9V) the charging current is significantly reduced. If you connect a discharged battery it will be charged but at a very low current. This is the recommended algorithm for the charger and presumably this TP4056 uses it too.[/quote].

    But then shouldn't the battery charge at least a little all day in the sun? And here generally nothing happens....
    I have to check what happens if I plug in a 0.5A USB charger... instead of the panel...

    Krawietz
  • #8 20162142
    TvWidget
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    krawietz wrote:
    But in that case, shouldn't the battery charge a bit all day in the sun?
    .
    Not if there is an ESP8266 connected to the battery. It probably draws more current than the initial charge current. You mentioned a current of 0.04A.
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  • #9 20162167
    krawietz
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    TvWidget wrote:
    krawietz wrote:
    But in that case, shouldn't the battery charge a bit all day in the sun?
    .
    Not if there is an ESP8266 connected to the battery. It probably draws more current than the initial charge current. You mentioned a current of 0.04A.


    But then, would a dedicated solar charger solve the problem and give a higher current to the power output or will the same action happen?

    Tailor
  • #10 20162217
    TvWidget
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    krawietz wrote:
    .
    But then, will a dedicated solar charger solve the problem and feed more current into the power output or will it be the same action?

    It is impossible to answer such a general question unequivocally.
    What you refer to as a "solar charger" only ensures better use of the energy provided by the solar cell. What is important are the values of the charging current and the load current as a function of the voltage on the battery. You must ensure that in each case the former current is greater than the latter. You must also not exceed the values recommended for a particular cell. Sometimes the solution is to disconnect the load when the voltage is too low.
    If you have a regulated power supply, measure how much current the weather station draws as a function of the supply voltage, e.g. from 2V to 4V.
  • #11 20162285
    krawietz
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    As a solar charger, I am thinking of a circuit based on the CN3065 mentioned here, or rather CN3791 because it has a larger input voltage range.
    The panel in good sunlight gives this 0.8A and the ESP draws 150 - 200mA.
    So the question is whether there is a circuit that will draw enough current from the panel (if it is sunny, of course) to make the ESP work and the battery charge at the same time.
    Well, unless these systems regulate the current in function of the battery voltage and will not give more when the battery is discharged.
    Maybe I can add a step-up converter so that there is always this 5V at the ESP input, but from what I have experimented with it causes quite a large energy loss.
    Alternatively, is there any ready-made protection system against discharging the battery with voltage regulation, I would set it for example at 3V and then the ESP would be disconnected and the battery could easily start charging.

    Krawietz
  • #12 20162312
    TvWidget
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    It's not as if the solution to every electronic problem is to buy the right chip or module.
    Take a look at the graph at the bottom of the first page of http://www.tp4056.com/d/tp4056.pdf and poke around to see what might be causing the lack of charging. With this load disconnection it is not such a simple matter. The voltage on a battery especially a discharged battery depends on the discharge/charge current. Care must be taken to ensure that the battery as a whole does not become excited. A further complicating factor in the analysis is the changing sunlight.
  • #13 20162466
    krawietz
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    From the graph it seems that charging should start at around 100mA, and this is not the case even with the ESP disconnected.
    Tomorrow I'll try a 5V 500mA power supply, I wonder if it will behave in the same way as with the solar panel.

    Krawietz
  • #14 20162743
    kaczakat
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    ESP should not work like that, it should measure something, send it to a server, e.g. ThinkSPeak, and put it to sleep. And you use the Thinkspeak widget to monitor the parameters on your Android phone. Even a tractor battery can be discharged when it snows, a 120Ah battery like this can be discharged in 4 weeks, and actually faster, because it has less capacity in the cold. If you wake it up every 15 minutes and it measures in 10s, that's almost 100x less power consumption.
    If the device has to be switched on all the time then it is better to have a sth->3.3V inverter. If the device is put to sleep it can be a linear HT7333, it draws 4uA + ESP with 14uA, it can sleep for 14 years on a 2500mA battery, or run for 16h while working with WIFI, from the ratio it comes out how much it will last in mixed mode, there are calculators for your phone that calculate after giving the current consumption in sleep, while working and after giving the duration of these modes.
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  • #15 20165869
    krawietz
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    Due to the nature of the application I'm using this with (when the ESP is not connected it doesn't even display the last data read) I'm keen for the device to work as much as possible when there is current. The problem is that the system doesn't want to "get up" when there is sufficient sunlight to charge the AKU and power the ESP.

    Krawietz
  • #16 20166017
    kaczakat
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    Sometimes the limitations are only in our heads. Maybe it is cheaper to fire up a second ESP on the same network, but already hanging on a phone charger in a 230V contact, if the application does not know how other than to be connected permanently to the ESP. This ESP on battery power will go to sleep, when waking up it will send data to the server and to the second ESP, or just to the server, the second ESP will fetch data from Thinkspeak for itself in the same way as the Thinkspeak Widget on Android does.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a solar-powered monitoring station utilizing an ESP8266, an 18650 battery, and a TP4056 charger. The user reports that the system functioned for 35 days before the battery discharged and failed to recharge despite adequate sunlight. Responses indicate that the TP4056 may not effectively charge a deeply discharged battery (below 2.9V) due to its low initial charging current, which is insufficient to power the ESP8266. Suggestions include using a dedicated solar charger like the CN3065 or CN3791, which can better manage the solar panel's output and battery charging. The importance of ensuring that the charging current exceeds the load current is emphasized, along with the potential need for a load disconnection mechanism to prevent battery over-discharge. The user is also exploring alternative configurations to optimize power management and charging efficiency.
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FAQ

TL;DR: TP4056 + bare solar often won’t restart a flat 18650; use a solar-aware charger (e.g., CN3065, 500mA) or add load disconnect; "TP4056 is not suitable for charging from a 'bare' photovoltaic panel." [Elektroda, kaczakat, post #20161807]

Why it matters: Makers running ESP8266 + 18650 + solar need reliable sunrise recovery without babysitting or bench recharging.

Quick Facts

Why doesnt my TP4056 start charging when the 18650 is at ~2.82.9V?

Below about 2.9V, the charger enters a low-current precharge mode. Your ESP load can exceed that reduced current. The result is no net battery charging and no recovery. Disconnect the ESP until the cell voltage rises, then reconnect once normal charge current resumes. [Elektroda, TvWidget, post #20162113]

Is TP4056 suitable for direct solar-panel charging?

No. "TP4056 is not suitable for charging from a 'bare' photovoltaic panel." It draws a fixed current, collapses the PV voltage, then shuts off and can oscillate. Use a solar-aware charger that regulates panel operating point. [Elektroda, kaczakat, post #20161807]

My chargers red LED is on, but the battery isnt recovering. Why?

The LED shows the charger state, not net battery gain. If the panel only provides about 0.04A while the ESP draws more, the battery sees no charge. This looks like "charging" yet never raises cell voltage. Try with the ESP disconnected to confirm. [Elektroda, krawietz, post #20161673]

Will a CN3065 work with a 7.2V solar panel?

Not directly. The CN3065s PV input is around 6.5V max. A 7.2V panel needs a series drop (e.g., diode), which wastes power and heat. Consider a charger with a higher PV input range instead of burning headroom. [Elektroda, krawietz, post #20161847]

Is CN3791 a better choice for higher panel voltages?

Yes. CN3791 supports a larger PV input range than CN3065, making it a better fit for ~7.2V panels. It is designed for solar charging scenarios where panel voltage exceeds 6.5V. [Elektroda, krawietz, post #20162285]

How can I guarantee the node boots when sun returns?

Ensure charge current exceeds load at the battery terminals. Add a low-voltage disconnect so the ESP stays off until the cell recovers. "You must ensure that in each case the former current is greater than the latter." Measure and enforce this with a cutoff. [Elektroda, TvWidget, post #20162217]

How do I size panel and charge current for an ESP8266?

Start from the load: an ESP8266 can draw 150200mA active. Your charger must deliver more than that at battery voltage to both run and recharge. Extra headroom improves cloudy-morning recovery. Match panel and charger so net charge remains positive during operation. [Elektroda, krawietz, post #20162285]

How can I test whether load current blocks recovery?

Use a regulated supply to power the node from 24V and record current draw versus voltage. Compare that curve to your chargers available current from the panel. If the load exceeds precharge current below ~3V, add a disconnect. [Elektroda, TvWidget, post #20162217]

Will adding a 5V step-up help sunrise start-up?

Usually not. The boost converter adds conversion loss, so less solar energy reaches the battery. In testing, a step-up caused notable losses and didnt solve the root cause. Prefer a solar-aware charger and a low-voltage disconnect. [Elektroda, krawietz, post #20162285]

What low-voltage cutoff should I use to protect the 18650?

Implement a cutoff that disconnects the ESP when the cell is too low, then reconnect after partial charge. The exact voltage depends on your cell and load curve. Measure load current versus voltage and set the threshold so charging can resume reliably. [Elektroda, TvWidget, post #20162217]

How do I recover a deeply discharged pack and avoid repeats?

  1. Disconnect the ESP8266 from the battery and charger output.
  2. Charge the cell from a stable source until voltage rises above the low-voltage threshold and current increases.
  3. Reconnect the ESP only after normal charge current resumes and the cell holds voltage. [Elektroda, TvWidget, post #20162113]

Why did it work for 35 days and then fail after a full discharge?

While the cell had charge, the panel delivered up to 0.8A, running the ESP and charging. After deep discharge, the charger’s precharge and the ESP load conflicted, so sunrise didn’t restart the system. The LED can show charging while net current is near zero. [Elektroda, krawietz, post #20161673]

Any architecture alternative if my app must be always-on?

Yes. Run a second ESP on mains as a proxy or display, and let the solar ESP sleep and send updates. The proxy fetches from the cloud (e.g., ThingSpeak) to stay live while the battery node conserves energy. [Elektroda, kaczakat, post #20166017]

How can I cut ESP8266 power use on battery?

Use deep sleep and a low-Iq regulator. An HT7333 draws about 41A, and the ESP can sleep near 141A. Sampling every 15 minutes slashes average consumption by roughly 1007, dramatically extending runtime. [Elektroda, kaczakat, post #20162743]
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