JBL Bar 3.1 Subwoofer - SMPS 40-N150SE Board Faulty Power Supply, Resistor R534 & R535 Values

@oldking thank you for bringing up the thread and in particular the subject of the replacement power supply. Thanks to you, the equipment works (I bought the JBL set used, the power supply cracked 3 days later, burnout as above in the photos, repair cost PLN 300 without warranty)
Continuing the thread for those interested in "taking shortcuts"
The sub, according to the info on the back, consumes max 60W, so I decided on the HP 2500mA 32V power supply, tested for a few days, it barely heats up, so far it's ok (I bought it from a guy from olx for PLN 15)
Installation for now on ordinary cubes / strip without the last pin (presumably standby).
You can probably pull it out (or not) and put it inside the sub and use the existing 230V socket. For me, aesthetics, I leave it outside.

Hello, I will join the topic.
Can the voltage of 36.6 V be or will it damage the electronics. I have such a power supply from a Panasonic printer

It may be too much, If you know electronics, modify the power supply and lower it to 34 V.

Thanks for the hint.

Instead of repairing the original one, I used a 100W 36V 2.8A switching power supply with adjustable output voltage and turned it to 34V.
Maybe not the cheapest (PLN 90) but fast and without major problems.

And above all, not very aesthetically and functionally, because from one device you currently have two.

Why do you think the power supply was left outside? It fit easily inside.

It was "in one word" that you changed the parameters of the loudspeaker chamber. In addition, you created a fire hazard, because the power supply used has not been tested and adapted to such a building. A veritable lottery, and then tragedy strikes. And yet your costs, as you indicated, are comparable to the repair of the original power supply.
Sometimes speed shouldn't be a priority .

I'm "deaf" so I can't hear the difference in bass.
But I agree that a new power supply carries a greater fire hazard than a patched original one.

Why this malicious, biting digression? Currently, a colleague has a piece of equipment that is not known how protected, of unknown production and origin, a power supply loaded with a class dz amplifier with a carrier frequency that may also interfere with the operation of the impulse power supply, and vice versa. In this case, even at minimal loads, uncontrolled energy losses may arise - heat release. And all this happens within the permissible parameters of the power supply.

This is patching in the literal sense of the word: - old exploited, damaged equipment, instead of carefully giving it for inspection and repair to a specialist, it is "patched" using the cottage method, as long as it works and quickly.

Have you considered how many output pins the original power supply has?

Ok.

I just exchanged a SW10 with unused stuff at home. Now I have a working SW10 and a broken Subwoofer from the 3.1 Bar.

It's the same sub, with the same internals.

I just bypassed the burned power supply on the defective one, but when I try to pair.... it says connected but after a second or two, the sub starts to blink orange again.

I will try to compare values within the good boards on the SW10 sub, I already tested the amp board of the broken one with the other parts of the SW10 and it fails with the same problem. Looks like something happened as well with the amp board. Will then compare values and try to find the defective component or components.

Added after 3 [minutes]:

OK.

Findings>

Board 40-N150SE-KEE1G is working. Bluetooth Module is working. Flex is working.

Looks like the board with model 40-SB210U-AMD2G is damaged. Something is not working.

I was swapping parts between Subs and that's why I found the new guilty one.

Not sure why there is a Service manual for the SW10 if you cannot find/buy spares.

Hi. Can you please show me how to wire the amplifier from the power supply?
Can you show a picture of how you did it on your JBL?
Thank you.

The HP power supply does not output power, it has too little power.

E-Service wrote:

The HP power supply does not output power, it has too little power.

What nonsense you wrote, I have a 180W 5.6A power supply, and the original one is only 150W.
Everything works elegantly, the only problem is the lack of Stan-By.

Now I connected 32V but only 30W power supply, it works but what can happen? Can I destroy something?
Thanks

The power supply itself may be damaged at high drive.

The damage stage itself may also consequently damage the amplifier output stage.

It is impossible to predict what "stages" the destruction of the power supply itself will take and what will temporarily appear at its output.

Hello guys, I'm just joining the topic. I have the same problem - the power supply burned out in the middle of the new year 2024 hahahahaha. Reading the topic, I see that it was possible to make it work by connecting an external power supply that works and complies for it to work correctly. However, could someone share photos of how that connection should be made? Someone out there explained, but I can't understand...

Hi there, same problem board on fire after several attempts to resuscitate it I decided to change to a power supply from an HP printer 32v 2500mA
80 watt everything works I will upload pictures of the conversion the power supply was a bit bigger and I didn't want any interference to be visible from the outside. .

Hola tengo el mismo problema y leyendo todos los comentarios vi que 32v y más o menos 2.5amp es suficiente para que funcione yo no conseguí una fuente de impresora como algunos pero lo que hice es comprar un elevador de voltaje (step up) y una fuente de 12v 5amp voy a ver si con eso funciona bien y además sin sobrecalentarse si les llega a interesar puedo subir fotos de cómo quedó y si funcionó

Hello, like the previous speakers I have the same problem with the device. I have replaced the components and so far I only have 330V on the primary side. The VCC supply of the driver jumps from 8 to 12V. On the DRV/OUT pin it does not appear and I understand that this is the signal that controls the MOSFETs. On the IR camera I can see that R543 and R544 from HV on the driver are heating up. What else can I look for to get to the target?

I ordered 32V 350W audio power supply from AliExpress and replaced power board, power supply output can be increased to 34V by adjusting preset(VR) near output terminal. Works well but need to manually switch off sub woofer power cos auto power on/off is not supported on new power supply. Combine 34V 3 wires and GND 3 wires, discard 1 wire for auto power on/off. I feel even more powerful bass after replacement, may be due to 350W supply.