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JBL Bar 3.1 Subwoofer - SMPS 40-N150SE Board Faulty Power Supply, Resistor R534 & R535 Values

SteCal 17562 50
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  • #1 20326051
    SteCal
    Level 2  
    I have a JBL BAR 3.1 subwoofer with a faulty power supply.
    Seems that there is a blown capacitor CE512 and 2 burnt SMD resistors R534 and R535 as per photos.
    Can't read SMD resistors values.
    Does anyone have schematic diagram?
    Please, has anyone encountered this problem or know the values of these resistors?
    Thanks for your support.

    JBL Bar 3.1 Subwoofer - SMPS 40-N150SE Board Faulty Power Supply, Resistor R534 & R535 Values JBL Bar 3.1 Subwoofer - SMPS 40-N150SE Board Faulty Power Supply, Resistor R534 & R535 Values
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  • #2 20326476
    ElDesign
    Level 13  
    I don't have a schematic, but I recommend finding the cause of the fault first.

    You can see in the picture that the capacitor is bulged, so it probably has a large ESR, it could have started with it.

    Check the mosfet keys and their surroundings too, because the damage can be much more than just these resistors and swollen electrolyte.

    It would also be good to determine what SMPS driver is sitting there, check its outputs for a short to ground, etc.

    Maybe having the circuit diagram you can get what the values of the resistors should be, the PCB looks like measuring resistors included in the transistor sources, used to determine the value of the key current, their value will be in the range of 0.44-0, 01 ohm and are high power for an SMD component (2512 ?)
  • #3 20327379
    oldking
    Level 33  
    I'm trying to repair such a power supply, mine looks much worse.
    Take detailed photos of the damaged piece.
    Maybe it will be possible to read the values of the elements, in mine all the semiconductors to be replaced, including the integrated circuit.
    This is probably a planned damage by the manufacturer, because they all break down exactly the same and it's strange that after the warranty.
  • #5 20328976
    aaanteka
    Level 42  
    SteCal wrote:
    2 burnt SMD resistors R534 and R535

    So also burnt mosfet transistors.

    oldking wrote:
    This is probably a planned damage by the manufacturer, because they all break down exactly the same and it's strange that after the warranty
    Because that's more or less when using this type of equipment, the service life ends, even in those structures with an extended 5-year warranty (at a higher price).

    Do you have a clear description of the driver used, or are you looking for one?
  • #6 20330310
    SteCal
    Level 2  
    Thanks for all your support.
    Did some troubleshooting on board and found that:
    1) Both mosfets (smk1265) are shorted.
    2) PWM CONTROLLER IC 1271 has pin 4 shorted to pin 5, that is the mosfet drive is shorted to GND.
    3) Open track between mosfet source to Power IC current sense pin 3.
    4) Open 0 ohm resistor (R561) that is between GND and Power IC gnd pin 4.
    Including the 2 SMD Power resistors and the bulged capacitor.

    Here are some detailed photos.
    While browsing on the internet, managed to find a similar problem photos. Seems that the value of the two Power SMD resistor is 0.34 ohms (refer to photos)

    What's do you think?

    JBL Bar 3.1 Subwoofer - SMPS 40-N150SE Board Faulty Power Supply, Resistor R534 & R535 Values
    JBL Bar 3.1 Subwoofer - SMPS 40-N150SE Board Faulty Power Supply, Resistor R534 & R535 Values JBL Bar 3.1 Subwoofer - SMPS 40-N150SE Board Faulty Power Supply, Resistor R534 & R535 Values JBL Bar 3.1 Subwoofer - SMPS 40-N150SE Board Faulty Power Supply, Resistor R534 & R535 Values JBL Bar 3.1 Subwoofer - SMPS 40-N150SE Board Faulty Power Supply, Resistor R534 & R535 Values JBL Bar 3.1 Subwoofer - SMPS 40-N150SE Board Faulty Power Supply, Resistor R534 & R535 Values JBL Bar 3.1 Subwoofer - SMPS 40-N150SE Board Faulty Power Supply, Resistor R534 & R535 Values
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  • #7 20333378
    oldking
    Level 33  
    These resistors are 0.240 ohms (R5345 and R535), check the SMD transistors, mine is also damaged.
  • #8 20345529
    psooya
    Level 38  
    The layout is NCP1271 that's how it looks. I have not come across the designation R240 but 0R24. It may be correct for e.g. 1% tolerance.
  • #9 20345591
    VinBaxter
    Level 5  
    Is this kinda scheduled damage??? Mine just died 5 days ago. Same issue.

    Anyone managed to fix the power supply?

    If yes, can you share voltages on different components?

    Or if not possible to fix it, does anyone know where to buy just the board? I cannot handle to buy a new JBL Sounder set at this moment.

    Thank you guys,

    Vin
  • #10 20355833
    awcon
    Level 17  
    Today we received the same subwoofer with exactly the same power supply, a hint for everyone - it's a regular 34V power supply without switching on.
    Regards.
  • #11 20356563
    oldking
    Level 33  
    I'm trying to repair this "power supply" - how do you know that the voltage is 34V and not more?
    The electrolytes are at 50V
  • #13 20358386
    oldking
    Level 33  
    awcon wrote:
    Description on the laminate.


    But I "dumb", I checked everything carefully and I did not notice this inscription, you are right 34V DC.
  • #14 20370600
    azaghorth
    Level 7  
    R534 and 535 are shunt resistors, used to measure the current through the MOSFET. For some reason the MOSFET went short, the current rose and the shunts were burnt before the PSU protection could kick in...
    Replace the IC, the MOSFET and the shunts. Also check with a multimeter for a short to ground on the input and output rail (before placing new components), also check the other components (resistors, if they show the value written on them), check capacitors for short.
  • #15 20373641
    oldking
    Level 33  
    Reasoning error - SD transistors are not damaged, which indicates another cause of damage. transistors with a current of 12A are not damaged and blown up 0.240 ohm resistors. I think they are the cause of the crash.
    All subsequent damage is a consequence of these burnt resistors.
    I VERY wanted to fix this power supply.
    Repair in the service is PLN 350.
    A bit pricey for a power adapter. buying parts is also not cheap because everything visible in the photos needs to be replaced.
    Thanks to my friend "awcon" I found out that we need a 34V power supply.
    I gave up repair - it's cheap to buy a ready-made power supply.
    I bought a 32V power supply for HP printers with a power of 180W (I exaggerated a bit - 60 is enough) - everything works SUPER, the power supply has all the protections and will definitely survive this subwoofer.
  • #16 20405571
    VinBaxter
    Level 5  
    oldking wrote:
    Reasoning error - SD transistors are not damaged, which indicates another cause of damage. transistors with a current of 12A are not damaged and blown up 0.240 ohm resistors. I think they are the cause of the crash.
    All subsequent damage is a consequence of these burnt resistors.
    I VERY wanted to fix this power supply.
    Repair in the service is PLN 350.
    A bit pricey for a power adapter. buying parts is also not cheap because everything visible in the photos needs to be replaced.
    Thanks to my friend "awcon" I found out that we need a 34V power supply.
    I gave up repair - it's cheap to buy a ready-made power supply.
    I bought a 32V power supply for HP printers with a power of 180W (I exaggerated a bit - 60 is enough) - everything works SUPER, the power supply has all the protections and will definitely survive this subwoofer.


    What's the part number of the HP power supply you found? Is it working? Pls let me know your findings. Anyone else managed on how to fix this power supply or how to adapt another kind of power supply?

    Thank you!!

    Vin
  • #17 20406587
    oldking
    Level 33  
    I bought one - HP 0957-2260 32V 5625mA
    It works, has protection against short circuit, overload.
    The only problem is no "stanby", almost not a problem for me.
  • #18 20408655
    Greg007m
    Level 2  
    oldking wrote:
    I bought one - HP 0957-2260 32V 5625mA
    It works, has protection against short circuit, overload.
    The only problem is no "standby", almost not a problem for me.




    Won't the amp die from 32v? It will run at lower voltage so it should get hotter
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  • #19 20409737
    oldking
    Level 33  
    No, it will be a little less power and that's it.
  • #20 20412432
    Greg007m
    Level 2  
    oldking wrote:
    No, it will be a little less power and that's it.


    And how did you connect the power supply to the amplifier, there are 3 pins 34v and 3 pins - did you connect them?
  • #21 20413416
    oldking
    Level 33  
    They are connected, you have 3 ground, 3 power 34, and I think you leave 1 free, it's Stan-by. They are described on the board.
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  • #22 20422141
    VinBaxter
    Level 5  
    Anyone have a picture on how to connect that suggested HP power supply?

    Someone is willing to sell me the same Sub but I’m afraid it would get damaged sometime in the future.

    I really would like to repair this one or instead, buy a SW10 model. I think it has upgraded electronics inside.

    So, if anyone can upload the way it got fixed or a modified power supply would be much appreciated.

    Thank you!!
  • #23 20429133
    VinBaxter
    Level 5  
    Ok Guys.

    I'm not giving up on this Sub.

    I was checking for service manuals, other models diagrams etc and found that the SW10 Subwoofer uses the same Power Supply module.

    Since the 3.1 Sub has no service manuals, the SW10 does have a service manual.

    I'm uploading it here so anyone with more knowledge and experience could give us a light on how to fix this thing.

    Just checked my other components with a 2.1 Subwoofer Power Supply board and everything else is working besides the Power Supply board.

    BTW, the SW10 service manual has a diagram and schematic of the Power Supply Board.
  • #24 20431052
    oldking
    Level 33  
    It's great that you got this diagram, I briefly looked at it and it looks like it fits this power supply. As I wrote above - you disassemble the original power supply for it, you give the one I indicated and the output from it + you connect to the 3 amplifier risers described as +, - the power supply the same to -, and you leave the pin (12V) state-by unconnected. Disadvantage of the solution: no transition of the power supply to the state-by. But if you are not using it, physically turn off the power (pull the plug from the socket) and after the problem.
    I've done that and it works. Repairing my power supply does not make sense because the parts cost 2 times more than a used ready-made power supply.
  • #25 20434135
    VinBaxter
    Level 5  
    Hi there.

    Yesterday, I was comparing the diagram and board view and it’s the same power supply. The diagram tells you what part it is and the resistance in case you need to replace a burned SMD resistor. I’m checking this thing very carefully and I think with this diagram we would be able to fix this thing.
  • #26 20492313
    ilhanamishev
    Level 2  
    Hello. I have a SW10 5.1 soundbar. and my problem is different. The sub itself works great, but it turns on when it wants to. There is no indication from the connect button when plugged in. Sometimes it starts the first time, but sometimes I unplug the cable 300 times and it still doesn't work. It last worked for 6 months until my wife turned on all the appliances in the kitchen and the fuse tripped. for the second week there is no connection.
  • #27 20492408
    VinBaxter
    Level 5  
    That’s a power supply issue as well. Mine got damaged after a power outage. Seems like these boards are really current sensitive. Have you opened it up? If yes, could you please upload clear images of the power supply itself?

    Thank you
  • #29 20549958
    Beretti
    Level 11  
    Good morning, I have the same problem JBL 3 in 1 bass, can you buy the entire power supply module somewhere, I'm afraid it's a factory defect and will be repeated. I think my case is from the neighbor's photovoltaics and 253 volts.. JBL Bar 3.1 Subwoofer - SMPS 40-N150SE Board Faulty Power Supply, Resistor R534 & R535 Values
    you can see a few burnt resistors and of course the SMK1265 have a short circuit.
  • #30 20550025
    aaanteka
    Level 42  
    VinBaxter wrote:
    I would really like to repair this one or buy an SW10 model instead.
    Comparable quality makes no sense.

    ilhanamishev wrote:
    m sub works great but turns on when it wants to. There is no connection button indication when connected. Sometimes it starts the first time, but sometimes I unplug the cable 300 times and it still doesn't work.
    This is a completely different damage, it does not concern the power supply itself, but the part of the electronics responsible for the auto switching on of the subwoofer.

    VinBaxter wrote:
    Mine was damaged after a power outage. It seems that these boards are very sensitive to current.
    Often, when switching back on, there is an overvoltage in the network, which the semiconductor elements cannot withstand (overvoltages causing transients in the devices themselves). Power supplies are made depending on the region for the supply voltage of 230-240V and 110-115V. Unfortunately, when powered from 110-115V, the elements of the power supply are "heavier" because the currents are twice as large for the same power consumed. So a momentary overload can be permanently harmful to them.
    In general, switched-mode power supplies in subwoofers have a general tendency to fail due to heavy loads and long-term operation of the device.
    Fortunately, their repair is fully possible.

    Added after 8 [minutes]:

    Beretti wrote:
    I am afraid that it's a manufacturing defect and it will repeat itself. I think my case is from a neighbor's photovoltaic and 253 volt ..
    It's either a manufacturing defect or overvoltage, make up your mind? :)
    In my experience, it's neither, because these power supplies work well even up to 260V (checked from an autotransformer). The problem, however, is the deformed network and overvoltages in it. For users with three-stage overvoltage protection, the power supplies work for many years without failure.
    The second problem is placing the subwoofer in the wrong place, close to window openings, balconies, in sunny places or with variable humidity (drafts).

Topic summary

The discussion revolves around the JBL Bar 3.1 subwoofer's faulty power supply, specifically issues with the SMPS 40-N150SE board, including a blown capacitor (CE512) and burnt SMD resistors (R534 and R535). Users share troubleshooting steps, identifying shorted MOSFETs (SMK1265) and a malfunctioning PWM controller (NCP1271). Various resistor values are suggested, with some users reporting values of 0.240 ohms and 0.34 ohms for R534 and R535. Many participants discuss the possibility of using alternative power supplies, such as HP printer power supplies (32V), to bypass the damaged components. The conversation highlights the commonality of these issues, suggesting potential manufacturing defects or design flaws in the power supply. Users also share repair experiences and the importance of checking for shorts and other damaged components before replacing parts.
Summary generated by the language model.
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