logo elektroda
logo elektroda
X
logo elektroda

[Solved] Wiring Two-Way Light Switches: Lexman Switches, Brown, Blue, and GreenYellow Wires

DIYLearner 2391 12
ADVERTISEMENT
  • #1 21236444
    DIYLearner
    Level 2  
    Posts: 3
    I have a two way light switch in the entrance hallway. One switch is near the front door. The other switch is near the door on the other end of the hallway.

    Both have the following wires:
    1. x1 Brown (Live)
    2. x1 Blue (Intermittent Live)
    3. x1 Green/Yellow (Ground)

    Firstly, does Brown go into common on both switches, and Blue goes into L1 on both switches?

    Secondly, what do I do with the Green/Yellow wire? The Lexman switches don't seem to have a place to put the Ground wire anywhere, nor can it be connected within the plastic hole. Any ideas?

    Three electrical wires emerging from the wall: brown, blue, and green/yellow, each with a red insulating cap.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #2 21236916
    bubu1769
    Level 43  
    Posts: 8040
    Help: 1173
    Rate: 2344
    According to your description, you have a regular stair switch installation there.
    If you have only 3 wires in both switch boxes, then there must be another box somewhere where it is all connected.
    I'm afraid that without a visit from an electrician, who will be able to examine the installation and find out how it should be properly connected, there is no way.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #3 21237847
    DIYLearner
    Level 2  
    Posts: 3
    Thank you. At this moment, I cannot see anywhere that it connects. The developer had plastered the internal walls, so I cannot see where the wires run. Nor does it seem obvious which box the wires could be connected. Is there anything I could expect to see when looking? I’m going to call an electrician, but just wondering.
  • #4 21237864
    kokapetyl
    Level 43  
    Posts: 13444
    Help: 1787
    Rate: 2089
    bubu1769 wrote:
    According to your description, you have a simple stair switch installation there.
    .
    Furthermore, the installation is botched because the colour of the wires is inappropriate.
  • #5 21237873
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #6 21237895
    kokapetyl
    Level 43  
    Posts: 13444
    Help: 1787
    Rate: 2089
    pawciu-85 wrote:
    compliance with applicable standards and regulations.


    And that was the point.
  • #7 21237919
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #8 21237926
    Madrik
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Posts: 12461
    Help: 622
    Rate: 1163
    It's not grounding.
    Heaps of people are about to start cursing your electrician out of existence for using it like this, but it's just another 'hot' wire. Treat it like a live, third colour.
    Unfortunately this is common practice on construction sites to make it cheaper and simpler to do the installation.

    Unscrew/remove the lamp(s) from the fixture.
    One wire has voltage - this is the power supply. To the common terminal of the first switch. You will identify it with a neon light.
    This will only be the case in one box.
    In the second, one wire has a transition to the luminaire (it should be on the footer, but it varies).
    To the common terminal of the other connector.
    The other two are located between the switches.
    Connect to the other terminals of one connector and twist at the ready, the other connector, connect in the same way but do not mount it to the wall.

    Screw in the bulbs, check that it works - turns on from one (and off), turns off (and on from the other).
    If it doesn't, swap those last two wires with the places in the other connector (don't move the common terminal).
    Generally, if the colours match (I don't know how it's actually wired without checking), but if they do, the order of these last two should be identical in both connectors.

    You need to identify the two wires - the power supply (with the installation unzipped and no bulbs in the holders, it's the only one that has voltage) and the outlet to the lamps (from the other connector). You cannot do without a wire continuity meter here.

    Of course, I hope that this is a simple installation and there is no 3rd or 4th switch in a different place, because this is a different game.
    Or the fitter hasn't mixed up something in the connection.
  • #9 21237931
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #10 21237945
    Madrik
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Posts: 12461
    Help: 622
    Rate: 1163
    pawciu-85 wrote:
    Madrik wrote:
    A bunch of people are about to start cursing your electrician from honor and faith for such use,
    .

    And she will be right to cuss him out. Because installations must be laid in accordance with the applicable standards.


    Nice words, but theory, theory, and practice, practice.
    There are no commonly available, three-core cables with different colours, specifically for switches. Possibly control cables, with numbered conductors. These, however, are considerably more expensive than the typical 'YDY'.
    98% of electricians and fitters on construction and renovation sites will simply take ordinary residential cable, use the green-yellow conductor for the working cable, and only the most conscientious will mark it with, for example, insulating tape or heat-shrink sleeve. Few people will also buy a 4- or 5-core cable if they only need 3 cores.
    This is the reality and, whatever you write, even the inspectors accepting the installation have already waved their hands at such cases.
    Qualified electricians know what is involved and how to behave in such cases anyway.
  • #11 21237956
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #12 21238126
    zbich70
    Level 43  
    Posts: 17116
    Help: 1164
    Rate: 6568
    Madrik wrote:
    98% of electricians and fitters on construction and renovation sites will just take ordinary residential cable, use the green-yellow conductor for the working wire
    No Mate, 98% was in the early 2000s, when certain solutions had only recently existed, were only just being implemented, or were not yet known.
    Now, a quarter of a century later, the trend is quite the opposite (among electricians, not in the pato-development i.e. plasterers, painters who consider themselves electricians).
    What kind of solutions are these? Please:

    1. the PE conductor has been required at every point and section of the installation since the mid-1990s.
    Some people were baffled as to why PE was required for a lighting switch. How surprised they were when a few, maybe a dozen years later, class I switches appeared, nice, "designer", blending in with the interior design, and more expensive, i.e. chosen by a smaller group of investors.
    Now the investor wants such equipment, but there is no protective conductor in the installation. An informed electrician will refuse to install such a fitting, while an uninformed one, i.e. a papyrus, will install it, leaving the PE terminal "in the air".
    I do not have to write what this may result in the case of damage to such a switch.

    2. conductor N - here, similarly, it is not needed for a classic switch, but again, modernity has arrived - "intelligent" switches, "smart", controlled by Wi-Fi.
    Some work properly without N, others require this conductor. Those working without N often require minimum power from the receiver, which may not be possible with LED sources (the lighting will flicker, glow or not work at all).
    With N under the switch, we have a full range of fittings available.

    3 This point solves all the ills of the points above.
    This is an installation made using the no-box method, i.e. no top junction boxes, and all connections are made in deep boxes under the fittings.
    Not to mention that it is an installation that is assembly-friendly (a ladder is only needed for ceiling luminaires and high wall sconces), and above all it 'automatically' ensures that all the necessary conductors are present.

    So if anyone thinks that the whole house or flat will be covered only by a three-wire cable, they are sadly mistaken.
    Such wires are sufficient in socket circuits, but in lighting circuits, especially for stairwells and candlesticks, five wires are the necessary minimum (as a colleague wrote above).
    And painting with a marker, wrapping with tape, or shrinking with heat shrink is a sign of incompetence or even sloppiness.
  • #13 21513989
    DIYLearner
    Level 2  
    Posts: 3
    Unfortunately, the comments weren't as helpful as anticipated. In essence, I just wanted a picture to show where the wires go. In the end, I resorted to a neighbour who had an electrician do it. In summary of the responses, though, it seems like the Earth wire is acting as an intermittent Neutral, and therefore, should have a blue sleeve with a mini brown sleeve.

    Close-up of an electrical box with wires. .

Topic summary

✨ The discussion concerns wiring two-way light switches in a hallway using Lexman switches with three wires: brown (live), blue (intermittent live), and green/yellow (ground). The main question is whether the brown wire should connect to the common terminal and the blue wire to L1 on both switches, and how to handle the green/yellow ground wire since Lexman switches lack a ground terminal. Responses clarify that the installation is a typical stair switch setup but is non-standard due to improper wire color usage. The green/yellow wire is often misused as a live conductor rather than a protective earth, a common but non-compliant practice in construction to reduce costs. Proper wiring requires a 5-core cable including neutral and protective earth conductors, but many installations use 3-core cables with color coding altered by heat shrink tubing. The green/yellow conductor in this case is likely a switched live, not a ground. It is advised to identify the true live wire with a voltage tester and connect it to the common terminal of one switch, the switched live to the common of the other, and the remaining two wires as travelers between L1 and L2 terminals. The green/yellow wire should not be connected as ground if the switch lacks a ground terminal. Compliance with electrical standards mandates proper conductor colors and protective earth presence, but many real-world installations deviate from this. Consulting a qualified electrician is recommended for safe and code-compliant wiring.
Generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: 98% of site installers reuse green/yellow as a live, yet “Qualified electricians know what is involved.” This FAQ shows correct two‑way wiring, testing, and what to do with PE on Lexman switches. It’s for DIYers fixing hallway two‑way lighting safely and compliantly. [Elektroda, Madrik, post #21237945]

Why it matters: Correct two‑way wiring prevents shocks, nuisance faults, and blocks to smart‑switch upgrades.

Quick Facts

Does brown go into COM on both switches, and blue into L1?

No. Only one COM takes the incoming live. The other COM goes to the lamp. Connect the two remaining conductors as travellers between L1 and L2. Identify the live with a neon tester. Identify the lamp leg with a continuity meter. Do not trust colors alone. [Elektroda, Madrik, post #21237926]

What do I do with the green/yellow wire on a Lexman switch without an earth terminal?

Park the protective earth in an insulated connector to maintain continuity. Do not connect it to the switch body. PE must be present at every point, even where the fitting is Class II. This supports later upgrades to Class I switches. “Painting with tape or shrink is a sign of incompetence.” [Elektroda, zbich70, post #21238126]

How do I identify the feed and the lamp leg safely?

Use this quick method.
  1. Remove all bulbs from the fixture.
  2. Use a neon tester; the only live in one box is the supply—put that on COM.
  3. In the other box, use continuity to find the lamp leg—put that on COM; remaining two are travellers. “Don’t move the common terminal” during swaps. [Elektroda, Madrik, post #21237926]

Do I need an electrician if I see only three wires in each box?

Yes. With only three conductors at both switches, there is likely another junction where neutrals/earths are connected. An electrician can locate it and verify the correct topology. Without inspecting the installation, proper connection cannot be guaranteed. [Elektroda, bubu1769, post #21236916]

Is it acceptable to use green/yellow as a live or neutral if I sleeve it?

No. Sleeving does not make such use compliant. The green/yellow is reserved for protective earth. “Obviously not in accordance with the standards.” If found, have it corrected and re‑cabled to include dedicated PE (and preferably N) at the switch box. [Elektroda, pawciu-85, post #21237919]

What cable should I pull for a compliant, future‑proof two‑way?

Bring five conductors to each switch: L, L1, L2, N, and PE. This supports smart switches and Class I accessories. As one expert notes, “five wires are the necessary minimum” for modern lighting, including stair switches. This numeric guidance prevents later rework and hazards. [Elektroda, zbich70, post #21238126]

My two‑way works backwards or inconsistently. What should I swap?

Keep the COM wires where they are. Swap the two travellers at one switch only. Do not move the common terminal. After swapping, the switching logic should operate correctly from both ends. [Elektroda, Madrik, post #21237926]

I suspect a hidden junction box. How can I find it?

If both switch boxes only have three conductors, a separate junction point likely exists. It may be concealed under plaster or at the luminaire. You will need an electrician to trace and verify connections safely. [Elektroda, bubu1769, post #21236916]

My Lexman has no earth terminal—why?

Many wall switches are Class II (double‑insulated) and provide no PE termination. Even so, run the PE through the box and park it in a connector. That keeps the protective path ready for future Class I switches or metal plates. [Elektroda, zbich70, post #21238126]

Can I wire a two‑way with only three conductors between boxes?

You can switch a lamp with three conductors by using two travellers and one common at each end. However, you lose neutral and often PE at the switch, limiting smart devices and modernization. Current good practice expects five conductors in lighting runs. [Elektroda, zbich70, post #21238126]

What if I have a third hallway switch (intermediate)?

That is an intermediate (four‑way) setup. The two travellers route through the intermediate switch. Two‑way diagrams and color assumptions will not work. Re‑identify travellers and rewire to the correct intermediate topology. [Elektroda, Madrik, post #21237926]

How should I remark non‑standard colors?

Mark conductor ends with heat‑shrink or tape to show function when documentation is missing. However, this does not legalize misusing the green/yellow. Confirm compliance with current standards and re‑cable if needed. [Elektroda, pawciu-85, post #21237873]

Someone told me the earth is acting as an intermittent neutral—is that correct?

No. “It’s not grounding… it’s just another ‘hot’ wire.” The green/yellow must not carry normal operating current. Treat it as a protective conductor only, and correct any misuse during remediation. [Elektroda, Madrik, post #21237926]

Do I need to remove the bulbs before testing the circuit?

Yes. Remove the lamps first. With bulbs out, only one wire in one box will show voltage—the supply feed. This helps you identify COM positions accurately and avoids false readings through the lamp filament or driver. [Elektroda, Madrik, post #21237926]

Who is responsible for fixing non‑compliant wiring?

Hire a qualified electrician to correct non‑compliant conductors and routing. As one pro states, “installations must be laid in accordance with the applicable standards.” Request documentation and testing after the fix. [Elektroda, pawciu-85, post #21237931]
Generated by the language model.
ADVERTISEMENT