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Interior, failure rate and construction of a 50W outdoor LED floodlight with motion sensor

p.kaczmarek2 810 10
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  • Interior, failure rate and construction of a 50W outdoor LED floodlight with motion sensor
    I would like to invite you to a destructive demonstration of a powerful outdoor LED lamp with a PIR motion sensor. The equipment came to me completely inoperable, so I decided to check its construction for teaching purposes. I was mainly puzzled by what was broken, and how the LED control and the motion sensor were implemented.
    I don't know the model of this lamp, so the whole thing will be based on guesswork.
    Interior, failure rate and construction of a 50W outdoor LED floodlight with motion sensor
    The housing is metal and solid, and you can also see that it has 'fins' on the back for heat dissipation. 50 W in LEDs is a lot of power though, and after all, not all of it turns into light. I wonder what efficiency the LEDs are in there.
    Interior, failure rate and construction of a 50W outdoor LED floodlight with motion sensor
    I guess the previous owner decided that earthing was unnecessary and wired the whole thing with a two-wire cable.
    Interior, failure rate and construction of a 50W outdoor LED floodlight with motion sensor
    Here you can see a PIR sensor, I associate such from various other hardware, there are also such ready-made modules for Arduino. You can also see the LEDs punctured, this is probably how this hardware ended its life.
    Unfortunately I haven't found a way to get inside in a non-destructive way .
    Interior, failure rate and construction of a 50W outdoor LED floodlight with motion sensor
    Hammer and drive. Good thing the whole thing is made of special glass that doesn't shoot shards left and right.
    Interior, failure rate and construction of a 50W outdoor LED floodlight with motion sensor
    This way we almost have the interior. You can see that there are two separate modules inside. Probably copies without the PIR sensor are also produced. This module with PIR probably works.
    Interior, failure rate and construction of a 50W outdoor LED floodlight with motion sensor
    Out of curiosity I tested the LEDs - some are faulty and represent a break in the circuit. Interestingly, some with black dots still work:
    Interior, failure rate and construction of a 50W outdoor LED floodlight with motion sensor Interior, failure rate and construction of a 50W outdoor LED floodlight with motion sensor
    However, let's start at the beginning. There is a phase wire and a neutral wire to the board, with the phase wire connected through the motion sensor. Then we have two fuses, an anti-interference capacitor and a rectifier bridge. Circuit U1 (L1050) appears to be a constant-current LED controller and is powered directly from the mains.
    Interior, failure rate and construction of a 50W outdoor LED floodlight with motion sensor
    Next we have the transistors, primarily I see the SW2N60 there:
    Interior, failure rate and construction of a 50W outdoor LED floodlight with motion sensor
    These are MOSFETs with an N-type channel for high voltage, I was surprised by their resistance in the open state:
    Interior, failure rate and construction of a 50W outdoor LED floodlight with motion sensor
    I managed to find a whole schematic showing a similar circuit:
    Interior, failure rate and construction of a 50W outdoor LED floodlight with motion sensor
    I was quite taken aback by the way the LEDs are connected, anyone know what purpose this is used for? The rest is pretty clear, the CS pin is used to measure current (via the voltage drop across the shunt resistor), the 1MΩ resistors to power the controller circuit.
    Specification of L1050 LED driver IC showing features and pin diagram in Chinese.

    What's left is the PIR module. A cool little gadget. There's even a fuse and a varistor.
    Electronic PIR motion sensor board held in a hand Electronic module with PIR sensor held in hand, visible capacitors and resistors Bottom side of a PCB with visible traces and solder points, held above a wood surface

    The lamp is potentially repairable, but it is now without glass and additionally soldering new LEDs is difficult, the whole thing effectively dissipates heat. A heater would be useful.

    In summary , this was more of a one-off. There was a separate PIR module and a separate LED board with a constant current controller supporting several strings. Looking at the damage to the LEDs I get the impression that the strings were failing sequentially, although given the attached diagram I have my doubts as to why it is (if it is) wired this way, maybe someone else can explain.
    Do you use these types of LED lights, how do you find their failure rate and longevity?

    Cool? Ranking DIY
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
    About Author
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
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    p.kaczmarek2 wrote 13710 posts with rating 11519, helped 623 times. Been with us since 2014 year.
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  • #2 21800425
    fachman1964
    Level 4  
    I don't know if they are all glued with the same black glue, but I've dealt with some that, when the metal part was heated at the contact with the glass, the glue mass became flexible. I lifted the glass without any problem. Strangely enough, I noticed that this glue is resistant to acetone and alcohol. So chemical dissolving does nothing.
  • #3 21800468
    androot
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    I was quite surprised by the way the LEDs are connected, anyone know what purpose this is used for? The rest is pretty clear, the CS pin is used to measure current (via the voltage drop across the shunt resistor), the 1MΩ resistors to power the controller circuit.


    The LEDs are supplied with full, rectified, pulsating mains voltage. To minimise flicker, when the voltage is lower than the conduction voltage, a piece of the section is cut off. Will work well with a large number of leds in series (230V power supply).

    I would try to cut the glass with dental floss.
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  • #4 21800788
    fachman1964
    Level 4  
    androot wrote:


    I would try to cut the glass with dental floss.

    What results, the black "ooze" could be cut out?
  • #5 21800910
    szeryf3
    Level 29  
    Even if you were to replace the LEDs with new ones, it would be a matter of a short time when the new LEDs would dislodge the old ones.
    For this reason, these and similar lamps are disposable.
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  • #6 21800945
    Dydelmax
    Level 39  
    I have repaired several similar headlights for myself that were written off, except that they do not have a motion sensor. You can get the glass out in its entirety with a bit of self-denial using GSM device service tools (thin undermining/separating plates, molybdenum wire, chemical action or heating). Disassembly looks similar to peeling off the display in a tablet, except that the glue in the lamps holds more firmly (there is much more of it). In my case, the most effective was a tin with the B&R logo engraved on it, which can be found under the phrase "phone opener". If you don't care about aesthetics then it's a good idea to make a "notch" in one of the corners as a starting place for further action between the glass and the body.
  • #7 21801479
    sampler
    Level 18  
    I have repaired quite a few such lamps. Usually the cause is low quality diodes so the repair is also for a while.
    Pop first the opening method. There is a simple method. Drill a small hole fi 2-3 mm at the back in the housing in the corner of the glass and screw in a metal screw. The screw will push the glass out beautifully. These glues are mostly chemically cured so heating and undermining is a waste of time.
    As the author noted there is also the problem of soldering out the old diodes. The board is glued to the case and dissipates heat well. I cut out the old diodes with pliers and solder in the new ones. The most important thing is to measure the voltage on the diode branches. There are different voltages. From 3V to 18V.
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  • #8 21801500
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    And has anyone tried reducing the controller's current setting so that the LEDs glow a little dimmer but live longer?
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #9 21801569
    klamocik
    Level 36  
    Isn't it sometimes the case that the lamp starts to glow from around 100V?
  • #10 21801852
    Kajox
    Level 18  
    For me, the worst floodlights because of the blinking during operation. Not everyone notices this. You can see it perfectly when trying to record a video or take a photo with your phone. Typical importer action. You order the cheapest sort, sell it and after two years, before you get flooded with complaints, you close the company and open a new one with a different name
  • #11 21802029
    leo5114
    Level 2  
    These illuminators are useless, total rubbish
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