Hi everyone!
I would like to present the construction of a WAREHOUSE POWER SUPPLY quite powerful, as it is almost 1200W .
The power supply came about as an idea to get a cheaper equivalent to the Riden RD6018 kit.
Parameters of the power supply, are:
- voltage regulated 0 - 60V with 0.01V resolution
- regulated current 0 - 20A with 0.01A resolution
- theoretical total power 1200W (20A available over the entire output voltage range)
As a housing I used the housing from an unfinished (and abandoned under construction) electric vehicle service unit (e-bike, scooters).
I attach the front plate of the above mentioned device:
The power supply itself consists of two main - finished components:
XY6020L (a module known and discussed here on the forum):
and from a somewhat less well-known, probably 1200W inverter with the designation
S-1200-60 (giving 60V with sensitive regulation and a maximum current of 20A):
The total cost of the power supply I closed in the amount:
XY6020L => ~120 PLN (possible cheaper from aliexpress, but I already had this module, I give the price from algo)
S-1200-60 => 295 PLN
Body: cost about 60 PLN , I do not know the manufacturer.
Yellow - plastic number plate mount => 9.90 PLN
Yes, you read correctly - I made the front plate of the housing from a yellow number plate mounting frame.
I just found it in the garage as I was looking for something to replace the front with, and somehow it came up.
I trimmed accordingly, cut out space for the display, output connectors, ON/OFF button and the result:
Interior prepared for new device:
Conceptual arrangement of components:
I had a conundrum: how best to fix the module inside the housing? Well, that's where the leftover frame, double-sided tape and
one of the rubber washers once bought in Lidl or Biedronka. Maybe I will attach pictures:
I screwed the module through a rubber washer to a plastic stand, which I glued to the S-1200 inverter housing with double-sided tape
with - as it turned out later - very high adhesive strength. The module is immovable, of course with a knife you can peel it off, but even in case of failure,
i did not stick on any of the mounting or ventilation elements of the inverter.
Finally the inside looks like this:
from above:
Generic device:
Summary
The power supply has power. I loaded it for several tens of seconds with 250W, 2x55W car halogens. But it was low, and I didn't know how to load more.
So it was necessary to get more involved.
I built myself a small test rig: a 350W e-bike controller (at peak double the rated power) + LCD S866, a 350W scooter wheel and gloves.
I set the voltage at 43V, the current at 21A (that's the maximum you can set on the module), the handlebars at maximum. Once the cruise control engaged in the controller, I could manually (literally) modulate the load. I will say this: I was unable to stop the wheel in my hands. On the LCD, the highest reading was over 700W after which the vise in which the wheel was screwed in farted out onto the floor (it twisted away from the load) which was the end of testing for me.
The module shows the temperature of the heatsinks - after my tests 31'C, the fan in the S-1200-60 did not switch on once, the XY6020 standard as any
load, the fan was gently audible.
I wanted to sit down for some ripple testing:
I have a possible measurement to compare to:
But I don't quite know how to do them right, because I don't have a fixed load (and a supply of gloves). I can tell you one thing: the ripples vs
UDP3305S are, I don't want to talk about the values because I don't know if I set the oscilloscope right (coupling AC, x10, the rest is in the picture with a 120W load).
If you'd like me to do some tests, go ahead - I'll post in the discussion when I find the time.
Overall, I'm happy with workshop equipment of this power. It's worth having on hand, sometimes it's been lacking.
The XY6020L module itself is rather uninviting to use as something you can use every day if you want to change parameters. At the same time, its
options to show the current parameters: power, capacity, temperature, time.
I have not performed tests of the correctness of the CC protection, nor have I presented here the accuracy of the indications with the Brymen 869S, but should anyone
need: I can. But at the same time I will say this: the overcurrent protection works ok, it does not cut off the power supply, it only reduces the voltage.
The accuracy of the voltage indication for a workshop power supply is consistent to tenths of a volt. For me ok.
Best regards,
Marcin
Cool? Ranking DIY
Greetings
