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how to check the alternator after removing it, i.e. on the table

dob12 93548 35
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #1 3236895
    dob12
    Level 21  
    Hello, I'm specifically talking about how to check the alternator removed from the car
    and I do not mean a visual check, because the brushes can be removed and
    check their condition rings as well as strong puncture on the rotor
    or standing also an ordinary meter, but I know that it does a special one
    cable combinations together with the excitation bulb and this connects to the alternator
    together with the battery and the drill drives, if it is ok, the drill decreases
    rotation and the bulb goes out. Please send me this combination diagram
    these cables and connecting them to the alternator, best regards GREG if anyone
    would know links to such pages with descriptions, please share them with me.
    :D
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  • #2 3237313
    viper555
    Level 39  
    First, what alternator do you want to check
  • Helpful post
    #3 3237429
    grzesiek08
    Level 12  
    you do not need a diagram, connect the "+" battery to the charging terminal (usually an eight screw or a tip for a thick knector), minus to the body. You connect the bulb between the battery plus and the clamp from the charging lamp and the system is ready. With an efficient alternator, the bulb will go out if it can glow be damaged diode. You can check them, but probably by desoldering the ends of the stator windings. Good luck!
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  • #4 3238127
    dob12
    Level 21  
    Thanks a lot, that's me, greetings, and as for the type of alternator, I'm just asking, not having any in mind, I am dealing with a mechanic, so I wanted to know. Thanks a lot. :D :D :D
  • #5 4462104
    __daniel__
    Level 10  
    Hello,
    I have a question about checking the alternator, but a computer-controlled one, i.e. it has a 5-pin connector. (E.g. Mercedes Actros).
    Is it possible to build a circuit, are there maybe schematics?
  • #6 9334801
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #7 9334915
    macvir
    Conditionally unlocked
    needed, unless you can accelerate the alternator to the right speed yourself :)
  • #8 9335031
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #9 9338167
    macvir
    Conditionally unlocked
    wake him up :D
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  • #11 9339702
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
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  • #12 9339801
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #13 9340121
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #14 9340197
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #15 9340614
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #16 9340636
    carrot
    Moderator of Cars
    Quote:
    So far, I have not had a case with suspended brushes yet

    It happened to me in cars where the injection pump is above the alternator and diesel was poured into it, after repairing the pump (sealing), the oil dries up and the brush holder is stuck with sludge from brush dust and liquid manure
  • #17 9340642
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #18 9341506
    miler80
    Level 34  
    There will be even half of the brush, but the spring has no force to push it further and remains torn in the position in which it dried. In sprinter I had that too.
  • #19 9929959
    HarrisonBergeron
    Level 12  
    How often do the diodes in the alternator get damaged? For a short circuit or a break?
  • #20 9930042
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #22 9930048
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #23 9930092
    robert7319
    Level 15  
    Break and open are probably the same.
  • #24 9930221
    HarrisonBergeron
    Level 12  
    On the skating rink, we most often fall over on the other involved in sliding. ;)

    So I am to understand that both options are equally likely?
    Hmm ... I would rather suspect that the diode burns out for a break.
  • #25 9930296
    viper555
    Level 39  
    HarrisonBergeron wrote:

    I would rather suspect that the diode burns out for a break.


    There is no rule, but there are conditions
  • #26 9932144
    carrot
    Moderator of Cars
    And how to classify a diode that behaves normally on the meter and the tested 21W bulb has a break? ;)
    Anyway, what's the difference, when the diode is damaged, how the entire bridge needs to be replaced anyway
  • #27 9932381
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #28 9933009
    HarrisonBergeron
    Level 12  
    I am glad that I found a friend. I will not hide that I am counting on your help. So far, no one has been able to provide me with professional advice.
    If possible, I would like to move from the general topic of alternators to a specific example (if necessary, please separate it into a separate thread).
    Where are the excitation diodes in this alternator? (photo)
    how to check the alternator after removing it, i.e. on the table
    This is an alternator from the Ford Mondeo mk2. 3-pin plug. Battery plus - red arrow.
    As for the power diode, the multimeter shows:
    decrease of 0.37 in the conduction direction (body - blue, blue - red),
    and infinity in the reverse direction (red - blue, blue - body).
    Measurement with the voltage regulator removed, but without the bridge rectifier removed. In the photo I marked only 4 blue arrows, but the measurement result is the same regardless of which diode or winding end I measure.

    Now let's get to the things I don't understand:
    What is the connection of the voltage regulator with the bridge marked with the green arrow?
    If this is the output of the excitation diodes, why is there such a solid connection (a thick piece of copper sheet) between the plus and the voltage regulator (red arrow)? The excitation will probably be on this copper connection (???)
    I have looked at many Mondeo alternator diagrams, none match mine, but in some I noticed there is a direct connection of one of the alternator stator windings to the voltage regulator (bypassing the excitation diode). Some controls or something ... I don't know.
    This green connection, maybe that's it? The more that the measurement with the green-blue multimeter gives a result of 0 (in both directions).

    The symptom is that the charging indicator is on in the car and there is no charging.
  • #29 9933038
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #30 9933421
    HarrisonBergeron
    Level 12  
    This answer actually dispels my doubts - defective voltage regulator;
    and confirms my suspicion that the excitation diodes are not there - although I have already heard the opinion (car electrician) that the diodes are flooded in this plastic.

    Thanks.

Topic summary

The discussion focuses on methods to test an alternator after it has been removed from a vehicle. Users share various techniques, including connecting the alternator to a battery and using a bulb to check functionality. A specific method involves connecting the positive terminal of the battery to the alternator's charging terminal and the negative to the body, with a bulb connected between the battery and the charging lamp terminal. If the alternator is functioning properly, the bulb will extinguish when the alternator is driven at the correct speed. Additionally, users discuss the importance of checking components like brushes and diodes, and the challenges of testing computer-controlled alternators with specific connectors. The conversation also touches on common issues such as diode failure and the need for proper connections during testing.
Summary generated by the language model.
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