Termet 0089 Gas Stove Ignition Issues: Hard to Ignite, Water Pressure & Faucet Manipulation

Hello,
I have a problem with the stove mentioned above. For some time now it has been getting harder and harder to ignite. The symptoms were (because I don't think it will fire me anymore without serious intervention): in order to turn on the hot water in the kitchen, I had to turn on the faucet in the bathroom (the pressure was good in both of them) and vice versa. Until some time, there was no problem with the shower - here the stove ignited without much problem. But this carefree time is over. Recently, to turn on hot water in the shower, you had to unscrew one, and sometimes two taps. The stove fired, but more and more reluctantly, with increasing delay. It seems to me that the part in the stove that is responsible for turning on the gas when the water flows through it, has been damaged or only contaminated (if possible). But it only seems to me. Besides, I don't know where to look for her. Therefore, I will be grateful for any tips on the causes of this fault and the possibility of repairing the stove with a home-made method (if possible).
Regards
Stendeck

Hello,
I suspect there is a diaphragm rupture.
It is located at the bottom of the stove, which is attached to the gas valve with 2 screws.
There you also have a water inlet connected and a pipe that leads to the heater.
To confirm the diagnosis, you turn off the gas and water supply, remove the front part of the housing and then unscrew the 2 screws holding the brass element in which the diaphragm is located, then unscrew the tube leading to the heater and water supply - now the element should slide down.
You unscrew the 6 screws to get to the membrane and check if there is a hole in it.
If there is, you can buy a membrane relatively cheaply at Zamoyskiego 7 - the entrance on the left side of the gate.
Don't forget to check if the old diaphragm has three lugs on the inside or not.

and how is it with hot water pressure? is it much smaller than before, because if so, you have a stony coil for sure and this may be the reason for not lighting the stove. check also the spout strainers in the batteries.

First of all, check the flame in the "candle". It has two roles:
- flame sensor (thermocouple tip)
-gas igniter
From home practice, I know the need to clean this element frequently, a slight damping of the gas is enough and the problem begins.
It is also important to set the direction of the flame.
Rather, a rupture of the diaphragm results in a quench during operation.
On the other hand, it is possible to seize the needle mechanically. And here it is a pity, because you have to disassemble the component, dismantle and lubricate it.

Then I will join, to this topic, the candle does not light up at all, I shorted the thermocouple wires, there is a sensor at the top and the candle lit it, the only question is where to buy a thermocouple sensor.

Thanks a lot for the answer. As for the diaphragm, it looks like a more serious repair, so I would like to ask you first about two other things that appear in the prompts. First thing, water limescale - there is indeed a lot of limescale in this water, but I already noticed that and the strainers are clean. And the pressure of hot water is slightly lower than that of cold water. Hence the question for Janren: what do you mean by coil and where to look for it? The stony hypothesis seems very plausible to me.
As for the flame in the candle (about Dybasa's hint) - it is ok. I was cleaning it recently. The problem here is rather this: there is too little water flow to start the gas flow (although the water pressure from three taps seems sufficient). The question, then, is what the spire is for and where to look for it in the stove.
Thanks in advance for further suggestions

If you want to check that the water is flowing into the stove with good pressure, disassemble the water assembly. Unscrew the water inlet to the stove (use a bucket, for example) and you will see if the pressure is correct and, by the way, you will rinse all the pebbles there. the axis of the metal plate (important). The coil is made of metal pipes located on the heater. This element is heated by the main burner. The needle is pushed by the eighth of the metal plate of the water assembly when the stove is working properly.

Unfortunately, my efforts so far have failed. I dismantled the water block, cleaned the filter (it was terribly dirty), greased the plate's axis. And nothing. As it did not light up, it does not light up. By the way, I noticed that the spire was moving without any problems. The diaphragm, on the other hand, is intact and does not seem to crumble or break. Could there be any hidden defect in the diaphragm that is invisible to the naked eye? If it's not a diaphragm, where to look for the causes of the failure? Regards

And yet the membrane! The stove is already working, in a way he has not seen for a long time. Nevertheless, I noticed that the water team was 'sweating'. And I don't know if it's the fault of me twisting it too weakly, or if I gave the wrong seals on the tube that supplies the water to the assembly and then leads from the assembly to the heater. Many thanks for your help so far. I would be grateful for your suggestions on the latter, as I'm a 'Sunday' plumber. Regards

Hello; it's best to stretch the diaphragm with your fingers and look against the light, it is easier to see. Pull the nuts gently when they sweat, or replace the gaskets.

On the inlet to the water unit, it is normal to sweat from the tube, because there is a temperature difference. Cold water flows in and the room is warmer and such a symptom. You will see when it is warmer outside it will not be, or to a lesser extent. the connections are definitely gaskets to be replaced or a poorly twisted water assembly.

Added after 6 [minutes]:

When it comes to a diaphragm, it does not always have to be a hole; a membram is ordinary rubber that ages and loses its dynamics.

Many thanks for the tips. I think this 'sweating' is only due to the temperature difference, because firstly, there is only 'sweating' when water flows through the stove and secondly there is no dripping from the caps. When no water is flowing, the water end is dry. Once again, many thanks to all forum members. Regards
Stendeck