Buderus Logano G124 Ignition: Switching Off Every Few Days - Replaced Ionization Electrode & More

I do not know what you spit, but the list of authorized APHs from your region (Lubuskie) is here http://www.buderus.pl/index.php?page_id=3408&action=detail&area_id=6&

But they do not sell parts, only parts with the service

Hello, I will share my case. The sparkler worked, the flame lit, the spark switch turned off for a second, and then it started again. After a few seconds, the flame went out and the BLA BURNER 1 message appeared. "I fought" for half a day, cleaning, exchanging and nothing. The last element I checked (thanks to this forum) was the lack of land and BINGO. It turned out that during the exchange of the circulation pump, the neutral wires and ground closed. The differential was activated, only that everything was powered by the inverter and the connection to the ground had to be interrupted.

Hello gentlemen!
I am forced to connect to the topic. For several days, the message BURNER 1 BLA appears to me. After the reset, it starts (but not for the first time) and it comes back some time. Earlier in the topic was discussed the issue of purging elements, could any of your colleagues indicate any instruction or drawing how to do it and what parts (as for a layman in this topic indicated picture method or from Polish to "our"). I would simply like to eliminate this element from the possible calling of a service technician. I would like to add that the problem appeared on the weekend of the night from Saturday to Sunday, then the stove went perfectly to the night on Sunday, and now after the return from work again this message appeared.

there is also a nozzle on the start-up burner with holes on the perimeter, but not on the whole.
during the cleaning I did not remember how it was at the beginning
help me how to set them
maybe some drawing

Hello.
Others join and I will ask. I have read the topic, in my stove, as in others, "bur bla," so I stripped it and cleaned it and the whole day is working properly. At the bottom under the burners there were a lot of sintered crumbs and an element that appears in the picture, and now a question what is it and how it found itself in this place. I will add that the servant cleaned the burners 2-3 years ago. The stove is already 13 years old and has been working so far without any problems. Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

on my eye is an element that supports / forms an ignition flame. Either you press the ignition burner and it will work or the ignition burner will be replaced

I have a problem with the morning ignition of the Buderus gas furnace (G134 + Logomatic 2107).
Practically since it got colder, the palinic does not want to start after the break at night. It lasts almost two months. I note that there is no problem during the day.
The scenario is like this: the hour comes to turn on the stove to heat up the water (5.30), the spark turns on (you can see it) and after 5 seconds a burner error occurs, after pressing the burner reset the stove is starting normally and is working normally until the evening . On the second day it is the same and it lasts almost two months. Until autumn, there was no trouble, the stove has been over 10 years and it always worked great. I checked grounding, polarity, cleaned electrodes, etc. The only idea that I have is a negative effect of low temperature on the process of starting the burner. In the morning the boiler room is rather chilly and then it does not fire. This confirms yesterday's case, when I took off the furnace cover around noon, I vented the boiler room with cool air and the stove did not fire as in the morning. What to do ? was buying a new Satronic burner machine?

It ended with replacement of the burner's automaton with a new one. So far it has been working for a week.

Hello,
> I have a problem with the morning ignition of the Buderus gas oven (G134 + Logomatic 2107).
> Practically, since it got colder the stake doesn't want to start after the night break

I have exactly the same problem, I cleaned the electrodes but nothing improved.
My furnace is 18 years old - is it worth buying Satronic TFI 812.2 right away, or are there any other elements that I should check first (gas is ok, nothing changed in the electrical system)

And the spark starts, the valve opens the gas .... can you hear it?

The spark is, the first time when attempting to start Satronic as if it does not detect ionization and there is a BLAD PAL.
When I wait 30 sec I can press the error reset button on Satronic and the oven tries to restart - 90% succeeds, sometimes the procedure must be repeated.
So generally the stove works, you just need to 'help' it start - which is a bit tiring.

So it doesn't turn on the gas even?

The boiler needs cleaning. Nothing more.
Ew. It may have a damaged earth electrode. A common malfunction in these models.

> So it doesn't turn on the gas even?
Turns on but the second time only (the first is not detected spark - it seems to me that this is the source of the problem)

> Ew. It may have a damaged earth electrode. A common malfunction in these models.
The 'earth electrode' is the one on the right (there are two: one on the left creates a spark and the other on the right seems to be an ionization sensor).
I cleaned both but it didn't bring much results.

At home I had to replace the whole Stronic ...

# 36 is a photograph of a ground electrode that often falls out of this torch.

It's like in the middle. If it is loose or has fallen out, the machine will not see the flame every time.
It also often goes out when the main burner starts.

I replaced Satronica (mine was already 18, 35,000h 'run'), for 4 hours it was ok, and then something tempted me to press the 'chimney sweep test' button ... the stove did not start and now I have to manually push it again.

> # 36 is a photo of the ground electrode that often falls out of this torch.
Through the small_the sliding door (sight glass) I can see that this electrode is in place - can it somehow burn or loose?

Please advise how to perform electrode cleaning.

I told you PLN 350 PLN that the boiler needs cleaning.
At this price, you would have a specific boiler overview with cleaning, security checks, gas tightness, etc.

Yes, you have two machines, PLN 350 less and the boiler still out of order.

You need to clean the entire burner. You will clean the electrodes themselves, the boiler will detect the smallest flame and may start to explode because of too small a candle.
How do you check the gas tightness after the whole procedure?
I suspect that no one has looked into it for 18 years.
The boiler flue probably fell apart seven years ago
Dust on the burner and under it at 20 mm

If you don't mind spending PLN 350 blindly, take care of your safety and make a review.

@piracik
- the boiler has been rushing for 17 years ... all in all, the problems started after the authorized service did the inspection (I will not go into details as the valve ... anymore)
- I bought the controller for 200 (someone bought it unnecessarily)
- my question was how to do cleaning, not how to panic that it will not work

And by the way, from sending this email at 12 .. to 22 the boiler worked without problems .. and now it has hung up again.

I will be very grateful if someone will tell you how to do 'cleaning the electrodes'

Piorun2002 wrote:

my question was how to do the cleaning and not how to panic that it will fail

I do not panic that you can not. The question you have posed indicates that you are not fit for it.
How to clean the electrodes?
Unscrew the starter torch being careful not to tighten the screw.
Clean the electrodes, e.g. with a soft brass brush
Check the condition of the electrodes, check that the massage electrode is not loose.
If necessary, or rather is, replace the damaged starter burner gasket
Insert and screw on the starter burner
Check gas tightness.

When cleaning the electrodes, clean the torch nozzles and the mesh in front of the nozzle.

If the service has damaged something, it should take responsibility for it. If something is not working after the site they should fix it.

Thank you for the substantive description, I would just like to clarify if I understand correctly.

> Unscrew the starter torch being careful not to tighten the screw
So first remove the wires from both electrodes (E1 and E2), then unscrew the metal wire (Torch - taking care not to tighten the screw) and disassemble the whole by unscrewing the screws S1 and S2

> Check the condition of the electrodes, check that the massage electrode is not loose.
Which electrode is it?
Earlier I took out E1 and E2 - I cleaned it but it did not help much.

> replace the damaged starter burner gasket
> clean the burner nozzles and the mesh in front of the nozzle.
I understand that these elements are visible after unscrewing the burner nut.

Did I interpret your description correctly? (I prefer to ask twice just in case)

Unscrew the entire burner. The ground electrode is clamped in the torch housing.
Under this tube is a nozzle that needs to be cleaned.

My experience:
- cleaning helped
- I did not listen to my friend and instead of explaining the whole burner, I only dismantled the handle with electrode mounting to make it faster, but:
one from fixing the screw broke (they are terribly corroded)
the gasket (in Figure 9) was probably already cracked and spilled after being removed

To sum up: it is better to disassemble the entire burner (I wanted to avoid it because I don't have a gas sensor to check the gas supply connector after assembly)

Piorun2002 wrote:

- I did not listen to my friend and instead of explaining the whole burner, I only dismantled the handle with electrode mounting to make it faster, but:
one from fixing the screw broke (they are terribly corroded)

piracik wrote:

Unscrew the starter torch being careful not to tighten the screw

Piorun2002 wrote:

the gasket (in Figure 9) was probably already cracked and spilled after being removed

piracik wrote:

If necessary, or rather is, replace the damaged starter burner gasket

Unscrewing the entire burner will not help much. There will be no access to the ground electrode.
You didn't read what I wrote to you.

It will reheat the topic.
The topic "BLA burner" came back to me
I replaced the satronics, the ionization electrode, cleaned the candle nozzle, cleaned the igniting electrode and continued to light it again and not the next one. Sometimes when the burner is ignited, it is as if the blast extinguishes the candle and the entire burner goes out, and other times the candle goes out before giving the gas to the burners.
Please indicate how the nozzle of a candle with a few holes should be positioned.
I will add that I blown the gas pipe in front of the gas machine with the compressor, the machine and the thin tube behind the machine leading to the candle.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

Take a picture of the ignition burner.

I have just assembled everything, I want to see how it will be until morning, I'll take a picture tomorrow. The nozzle at the end of the candle / burner has it seen as it is seen standing in front of the stove
one horizontal opening facing the inside of the furnace
three small holes directed to the sides
one larger opening pointing to the side
two small invisible holes after screwing the entire torch
I just found a pictorial photo of the set

I know what the burner should look like.
I meant a photo of your burner.

The biggest hole for ionization.

Here you are,