Buderus Logano G124 Ignition: Switching Off Every Few Days - Replaced Ionization Electrode & More

Check if it moves. If so, you need to hit the arrow with a punch or nail.

Once it fell out and the stove went without this element, about two three years ago I put it on loosely and it also worked for a few weeks when I turn it off, I fixed it stiffly with a punch so that now it sits stiffly.

So only the nozzle remains.
It needs to be cleaned well or replaced.

Cleaning is behind me, I will let you know.

One more question.
I noticed that most often it will light the burners well for the first time, and when it is warm, it is as if a blast when lighting the burners extinguishes the candle and starts again and sometimes it will catch the second time, sometimes for the third or even fourth time, and sometimes the blah burner.
But it also happens that the candle goes out by itself as if the controller cut off the gas or it was clogged and clean.
Is it possible in such a situation that replacing the candle nozzle can help?
Can this nozzle be bought or only in full with the entire incendiary unit?

gipsatura wrote:

Is it possible in such a situation that replacing the candle nozzle can help?

The larger the flame, the better the ionization current.

The main burner does not blow out the candle, but pulls it so far away from the ionization electrode that it loses the flame signal and cuts off the gas.

As for now, everything is probably back to normal, it fired properly several times, I will see the next days and let you know.
My first cleaning of the nozzle consisted in blowing my eyes and finding that there is a hole so it is ok. Second cleaning with a compressor, only the third time I cleaned the nozzle with a suitably thin wire and the candle slightly increased its flame. Probably it was enough to increase the ionization current and now it works without error. We'll see what in the next few days. So I have a new ionization electrode and a new satronic controller for sale - learning costs, but it's nothing, I like to get to the end with such topics. May it work without error. Thank you for your help. Greetings.

PS. Another day passed with the boiler working properly.

Very good diagnosis, the furnace works properly for several days.

Hello!

I have a similar problem ? Satronic TFI 812.2 / 10 or Tandem 830 does not give gas for the first time. The first attempt to start with the "magic eye" does not give a positive result, but after waiting several dozen seconds and pressing the button again, the flame appears and the stove starts normally.
Please advise if I should buy DKG 972-N / 21 blindly or check something else?
Thank you very much in advance for your constructive replies.

Hi!
'Blah burner' is probably my favorite thread on the electrode, so I will develop the solutions described here with my own experience - maybe they will be useful to someone. I would like to point out that I am not a professional, but when a service technician from an authorized company inspected the stove for me, he omitted what I later cleaned. The stove - Buderus Logano G 124 - is already 20 years old and the 'blah burner' is his only concern from time to time.

Where do I start - cleaning the ionization electrode. This can be done through the inspection hole, although room for maneuver is limited. I use a narrow metal blade with the flat side as it is flexible and fits between the two electrodes. If the furnace worked yesterday and it did not work today, it does not take much cleaning to start firing again. You can also measure the current with an ammeter by plugging it in series into the circuit - there is a special connector on the electrode cable, but without experience it is difficult to say whether it is good or not ... I have to clean the electrode every few years.

After 15 years, cleaning the electrode did not help. The reason for the 'blah burner' this time was the clogged nozzle of the ignition burner (just in the season after the inspection). You can see a candle through the inspection hole - having no experience, the problem is to assess whether the size of the candle is correct: the flame of the candle should clearly go beyond the ionization electrode. For me, it barely touched, so the stove fired once in five attempts. The nozzle can be cleaned without removing the plate with the burner and electrodes, which saves broken screws and gaskets. Disconnect the electrode cables, unscrew the nut in front of the mesh (in front of you - looking from you), take out the mesh and the nozzle. I was cleaning the nozzle with a 0.5mm2 wire, you need a little force to break through the fossilized deposit at the beginning. Fold in the reverse order. We do not unseal the gas installation, because this part is leaky by definition.

After 20 years, a 'blah burner' appeared, not related to the ionization electrode or the candle flame. This time the problem was in the Satronic controller. The stove worked properly as long as the controller was warm (from the stove). After a break at night, it stopped firing, but after the reset it started. Gently heating the driver made the problem non-existent. February around the resistors was cracked - as a colleague described in an earlier post. However, re-soldering did not help, as did wiping the relay contacts. I did not dig deeper, I replaced it (the same one but from Resideo).

Greetings, thanking everyone for the previous descriptions and waiting for the pogrom from the specialists on duty
vol.

A new machine PLN 350 online.
As for this type of boiler parts, it is a ridiculously low price.
It is not worth combining with regeneration of this. Too much risk.

Cleaning the electrode also better with metal debris or paper. Copper or brass brush not recommended.

The installation is to be tight! There is nothing like a leak in principle.
A leak at the burner may cause a fire.

The correct operation of the ionization is> 3uA (microampere)

Added after 3 [minutes]:

TB.PL wrote:

pogrom from the specialists on duty

There is nothing to blame. However, W / W had to explain

The Buderus 124X stove - I saw this device for the first time. The stove did not ignite. The expert wondered which elements the panels would be replaced with. The specter of thousands of zlotys began to circulate in the basement.
And here elektroda.pl turned out to be extremely helpful. There was a spark, a flame appeared, and it went out after a few seconds. The display read "Burner BLA". Through the transparent housing of the driver, I could see the burned-in soldering points at the resistors. I read the topics on Elektroda and did:
1. I cleaned the nozzle. Cleaning the whole with a toothbrush - b / z.
2. I swapped the phase with zero and back - b / z.
3. I took the driver apart. I cleaned and corrected February at the resistors - b / z.
4. Once again I took out the nozzle / electrode assembly and this time I did it solidly - with an abrasive sponge - especially the ionizing and mass electrode - after a few seconds of the magneto, the relay clicked, the magneto went silent, and the hum and ignition of the main burners ended the silence of several seconds. The stove works!
5. Sometimes the stove turned itself on immediately after the magneto, sometimes after a few seconds, sometimes when I tapped the controller with my finger. I took the driver apart again. This time it turned out that the rusting relay anchor has difficulty moving. Multidirectional movement of the anchor cleared its pivot points. After assembly, the flame ionization electrode detection (relay snap) occurs immediately after the flame ignites.
And of course, after a dozen or so seconds, the main burners are ignited.
Thanks to everyone describing the bug fixes.
Now I am going to start exploring the program.