Hi I’m building a house and I’d like to automate it a bit. At first, I wanted to control the blinds, lights, heating and garden watering using a standard PLC – something like a Fatec or a Siemens... but those are expensive solutions ;/ I’ve found something interesting: the Steronik PLC2011A0...

Name: Choosing a home automation system: Sterbox vs PLC2011A0 – reviews and experiences
Uploaded: 2012-03-21T18:10:23+01:00
Description: Hi I’m building a house and I’d like to automate it a bit. At first, I wanted to control the blinds, lights, heating and garden watering using a standard PLC – something like a Fatec or a Siemens... but those are expensive solutions ;/ I’ve found something interesting: the Steronik PLC2011A0...

If you're interested, I've got some Trend IQ 2xx controllers for sale, but the problem is that I can't get hold of the software to write 'SET' strategies :/

What do you think of Hall 2007?

Hi, I don’t know what you’re up to, but I’m also building a house at the moment (I’m not installing roller blinds, so I can’t help there). As for the lighting, I’ve used a Lutron controller, but only on the ground floor – an open-plan kitchen and living area of 50m² with four LED lighting zones (it works really well). As for the heating, there’s underfloor heating throughout the house (a Viessmann condensing boiler and a 100-litre water tank, hot water with a circulation system); downstairs there are 6 underfloor heating zones and upstairs 5 zones; the pump in the mixer is energy-efficient with a built-in inverter. An electronic thermostatic valve is fitted to each valve – 15 in total, plus one main limiting valve. A Trend outdoor temperature sensor (which controls the water temperature throughout the heating system (i.e. limits the water temperature)) + Trend sensors in every room that control the valves. Everything is currently connected to two TREND controllers At the moment, I’m struggling to figure out exactly how to write the strategies for this system (the problem is getting hold of the software)

I bought the PLC2011A0 and PLC2011B0, and I think I’ll buy one more A0 and that’ll be it. I chose it because of the software for PC and Android and for security reasons, as I use it to open my front door and gates and to control the alarm. For example, from my mobile, I can send commands to multiple PLCs with a single button press, like macro commands, and I can define whether I’m leaving or returning. These are the only costs involved. Everything is built-in, including the buffer power supply. All you need is a gel battery and an RJ45 plug. You can change the input type yourself – whether 230VAC or 12-24VAC/DC – by opening the casing. You just need to set the jumpers. Both modes are opto-isolated. Have a look at the videos There are about 40 of them. Alternatively, contact the seller on Allegro and they’ll give you the password and IP address of a relay so you can have a go with it. It doesn’t really matter where it’s located, as the PC software acts as a real-time simulator. Added after 7 [minutes]: Simply controlling room temperatures by turning down the zones is the worst thing you can do. It’s a complete waste of energy. Underfloor heating should be balanced to ensure even heat distribution, with the valves fully open. It is the weather-compensated controller for the boiler or heat pump that should decide the rest, not the zone valves or radiator valves.

Thanks, so I’ll read up more on the PLC2011A0 and B0.Tell me, is it possible, for example, to edit the software? I’d like to write it with a slightly better graphical interface. P.S. What sort of sensor do you have in the front door to check whether it’s locked? A contact sensor in the door frame?

After speaking to the PLC211A0 sales representative, I now know everything.I also spoke to the Sterbox sales representative. It seems to offer more features, and costs half as much. It’s just that setting it up is a bit more complicated. Has nobody really set up a Sterbox before?

I bought a Sterbox device on Allegro and set it up. It’s very practical.Actually, you can see what it can do on YouTube by searching for ‘STERBOX’. The company that sells it – I can’t remember the name, but it’s shown in the video – gave me plenty of advice and has some interesting solutions for roller blinds. It’s: poork.pl – I’ve checked it out.It’s also handy that it sends emails with information about completed tasks. And you can also send emails to it.

Was the setup itself difficult? Was the documentation supplied with the device sufficient to get everything up and running?

Generally speaking, getting the Sterbox up and running is no problem at all.It comes pre-configured as standard, and once switched on, you can immediately perform basic operations such as switching it on and off via the internet or a web browser. Once connected to the LAN, simply enter its default IP address and the login page will appear, followed by the control or settings menu.The rest is simply a matter of familiarising yourself with the controller. The manual was included on the CD.But it’s also available on the company’s website. You can download it and have a look.

Choosing a controller is always a matter of personal preference or budget, or whether you’ve had experience with them or not; in my case, I went for the Sterbox and I’m not complaining. I needed a controller to manage my garden lighting,watering and switching on the electric hot water boiler. As far as the lighting is concerned, the advantage is that you can connect any number of bell-type switches in parallel, which allows you to switch the lights on from practically anywhere, not counting the web browser, of course. I managed to set up the lighting exactly as I wanted: press once and the light comes on, press again and it goes off; but even if I don’t switch it off, it will turn off automatically after a set time. As for controlling the boiler, until now I’d been using a cheap controller from Allegro; in a way, it did the job, but there’s always a ‘but’ – it was set to switch on in the morning at a specific time (still on the night-time tariff) and there were no complaints about that, but the ‘but’ came in the afternoon, when the switch-on times varied and were often hard to predict. We managed to solve the problem by controlling it via email: you send an email with a pre-set message and the boiler switches on,you come home to hot water, and sending an email from a mobile phone is no problem at all and can be done anytime, anywhere; what’s more, every switch-on can be confirmed by email. And switching on the boiler at home is a huge convenience, given that you used to have to go down to the basement to turn it on, whereas now you can install a switch yourself or control it via the web. I’ll just need to find a spare moment to set it up so that once switched on, it runs for a set time in case ‘someone’ forgets to switch it off. You can do something similar with watering the garden, but I suppose that’s a matter for next season.Overall, I’m pleased with it; it offers great possibilities. I’ve got a few more uses in mind, but that’s a matter of having a bit of a play around and testing it out on those long autumn evenings.

Choosing a home automation system: Sterbox vs PLC2011A0 – reviews and experiences

student_Wojtek 70163 99

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Which controller is better for home automation of blinds, lighting, heating and garden watering: Sterbox or PLC2011A0, and what are users’ experiences with them?

If you want the safer choice for security-related automation, users leaned toward PLC2011A0/B0; if you want more features per złoty and can live with rougher setup, many people chose Sterbox [#10704254][#9873711][#9926483] Sterbox was praised as practical, with easy basic setup, helpful vendor support, e-mail notifications, and successful use for lighting, sockets, blinds and watering [#9878411][#9880700][#10904094] But several users complained that Sterbox has poor documentation, awkward programming, limited timers, no 1Wire/PWM support, only 0–3 V analog inputs, and weak heating control unless you build logic around hysteresis and monoflops yourself [#11085199][#10722636][#11131755][#11190155][#11180320] PLC2011A0/B0 was described as having encryption, built-in buffered power supply, opto-isolated 230 VAC inputs, PC/Android software, and good fit for gates, door locks and alarm/security functions [#9873711][#9926483][#9980856] On the downside, some users still considered the PLC2011 alarm features less complete than a dedicated alarm panel, while others felt Sterbox communicated between controllers better and offered twice the capabilities for half the price [#10704254][#9926483]

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#1 9860392 25 Aug 2011 08:25

student_Wojtek student_Wojtek

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9860392 25 Aug 2011 08:25

Hi
I’m building a house and I’d like to automate it a bit.
At first, I wanted to control the blinds, lights, heating and garden watering using a standard PLC – something like a Fatec or a Siemens... but those are expensive solutions ;/
I’ve found something interesting:
the Steronik PLC2011A0 programmable controller for 997 zł, which looks pretty good.
Unfortunately, it has fewer features, but let’s say it suits me – a compromise between price and capabilities.

Yesterday I also came across Sterbox! http://www.sterbox.com.pl/
Similar capabilities – perhaps a bit more complicated, but the price the seller sent me is staggering... 300 PLN each, and you can expand it with more I/O

Has anyone had any experience with these and can advise me against them or recommend them?

Cheers in advance
Wojtek
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#2 9861588 25 Aug 2011 14:58

gravess gravess

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9861588 25 Aug 2011 14:58

If you're interested, I've got some Trend IQ 2xx controllers for sale, but the problem is that I can't get hold of the software to write 'SET' strategies :/
#3 9864783 26 Aug 2011 11:44

student_Wojtek student_Wojtek

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9864783 26 Aug 2011 11:44

What do you think of Hall 2007?
#4 9867704 27 Aug 2011 09:53

gravess gravess

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9867704 27 Aug 2011 09:53

Hi, I don’t know what you’re up to, but I’m also building a house at the moment (I’m not installing roller blinds, so I can’t help there). As for the lighting, I’ve used a Lutron controller, but only on the ground floor – an open-plan kitchen and living area of 50m² with four LED lighting zones (it works really well). As for the heating, there’s underfloor heating throughout the house (a Viessmann condensing boiler and a 100-litre water tank, hot water with a circulation system); downstairs there are 6 underfloor heating zones and upstairs 5 zones; the pump in the mixer is energy-efficient with a built-in inverter.
An electronic thermostatic valve is fitted to each valve – 15 in total, plus one main limiting valve.

A Trend outdoor temperature sensor (which controls the water temperature throughout the heating system (i.e. limits the water temperature)) + Trend sensors in every room that control the valves.

Everything is currently connected to two TREND controllers

http://www.energycontrolsonline.co.uk/shop/CD/pdf/en-ta103498-uk0yr0406.pdf

At the moment, I’m struggling to figure out exactly how to write the strategies for this system (the problem is getting hold of the software)
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#5 9873711 29 Aug 2011 01:56

mariusz.lubicz mariusz.lubicz

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9873711 29 Aug 2011 01:56

student_Wojtek wrote:
The PLC2011A0 programmable controller for 997 zł, which looks quite good.
Unfortunately, the capabilities are more limited, but let’s say it suits me – a compromise between price and capabilities.

I bought the PLC2011A0 and PLC2011B0, and I think I’ll buy one more A0 and that’ll be it.
I chose it because of the software for PC and Android and for security reasons, as I use it to open my front door and gates and to control the alarm.

For example, from my mobile, I can send commands to multiple PLCs with a single button press, like macro commands, and I can define whether I’m leaving or returning.
These are the only costs involved. Everything is built-in, including the buffer power supply. All you need is a gel battery and an RJ45 plug. You can change the input type yourself – whether 230VAC or 12-24VAC/DC – by opening the casing. You just need to set the jumpers. Both modes are opto-isolated.

Have a look at the videos http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gz4AQiIf2lo
There are about 40 of them. Alternatively, contact the seller on Allegro and they’ll give you the password and IP address of a relay so you can have a go with it. It doesn’t really matter where it’s located, as the PC software acts as a real-time simulator.

Added after 7 [minutes]:

gravess wrote:
Trend external temperature sensor (which controls the water temperature throughout the heating system (i.e. limits the water temperature))+ Trend sensors in every room that control the valves.

Everything is currently connected to two TREND controllers

At the moment, I’m struggling to figure out exactly how to write the strategies for this system (the problem is getting hold of the software)

Simply controlling room temperatures by turning down the zones is the worst thing you can do. It’s a complete waste of energy. Underfloor heating should be balanced to ensure even heat distribution, with the valves fully open. It is the weather-compensated controller for the boiler or heat pump that should decide the rest, not the zone valves or radiator valves.
#6 9873831 29 Aug 2011 08:14

student_Wojtek student_Wojtek

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9873831 29 Aug 2011 08:14

Thanks, so I’ll read up more on the PLC2011A0 and B0.

Tell me, is it possible, for example, to edit the software? I’d like to write it with a slightly better graphical interface.

P.S. What sort of sensor do you have in the front door to check whether it’s locked?
A contact sensor in the door frame?
#7 9876975 30 Aug 2011 08:09

student_Wojtek student_Wojtek

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9876975 30 Aug 2011 08:09

After speaking to the PLC211A0 sales representative, I now know everything.
I also spoke to the Sterbox sales representative. It seems to offer more features, and costs half as much. It’s just that setting it up is a bit more complicated.

Has nobody really set up a Sterbox before?
#8 9878411 30 Aug 2011 16:36

Master-Slave Master-Slave

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9878411 30 Aug 2011 16:36

I bought a Sterbox device on Allegro and set it up. It’s very practical.
Actually, you can see what it can do on YouTube by searching for ‘STERBOX’.
The company that sells it – I can’t remember the name, but it’s shown in the video – gave me plenty of advice and has some interesting solutions for roller blinds. It’s: poork.pl – I’ve checked it out.
It’s also handy that it sends emails with information about completed tasks.
And you can also send emails to it.
#9 9880517 31 Aug 2011 08:02

student_Wojtek student_Wojtek

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9880517 31 Aug 2011 08:02

Was the setup itself difficult? Was the documentation supplied with the device sufficient to get everything up and running?
#10 9880700 31 Aug 2011 09:32

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9880700 31 Aug 2011 09:32

Generally speaking, getting the Sterbox up and running is no problem at all.
It comes pre-configured as standard, and once switched on, you can immediately perform basic operations such as switching it on and off via the internet or a web browser.
Once connected to the LAN, simply enter its default IP address and the login page will appear, followed by the control or settings menu.
The rest is simply a matter of familiarising yourself with the controller.
The manual was included on the CD.
But it’s also available on the company’s website. You can download it and have a look.
#11 9905119 07 Sep 2011 21:06

mstean mstean

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9905119 07 Sep 2011 21:06

Choosing a controller is always a matter of personal preference or budget, or whether you’ve had experience with them or not; in my case, I went for the Sterbox and I’m not complaining. I needed a controller to manage my garden lighting,watering and switching on the electric hot water boiler. As far as the lighting is concerned, the advantage is that you can connect any number of bell-type switches in parallel, which allows you to switch the lights on from practically anywhere, not counting the web browser, of course. I managed to set up the lighting exactly as I wanted: press once and the light comes on, press again and it goes off; but even if I don’t switch it off, it will turn off automatically after a set time.
As for controlling the boiler, until now I’d been using a cheap controller from Allegro; in a way, it did the job, but there’s always a ‘but’ – it was set to switch on in the morning at a specific time (still on the night-time tariff) and there were no complaints about that, but the ‘but’ came in the afternoon, when the switch-on times varied and were often hard to predict. We managed to solve the problem by controlling it via email: you send an email with a pre-set message and the boiler switches on,you come home to hot water, and sending an email from a mobile phone is no problem at all and can be done anytime, anywhere; what’s more, every switch-on can be confirmed by email. And switching on the boiler at home is a huge convenience, given that you used to have to go down to the basement to turn it on, whereas now you can install a switch yourself or control it via the web. I’ll just need to find a spare moment to set it up so that once switched on, it runs for a set time in case ‘someone’ forgets to switch it off.
You can do something similar with watering the garden, but I suppose that’s a matter for next season.
Overall, I’m pleased with it; it offers great possibilities. I’ve got a few more uses in mind, but that’s a matter of having a bit of a play around and testing it out on those long autumn evenings.
#12 9910483 09 Sep 2011 15:12

Master-Slave Master-Slave

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9910483 09 Sep 2011 15:12

This Sterbox has a feature that displays pre-programmed text messages on the main screen. I’ve managed to programme it so that when I switch the device on or off, a message appears saying something like ‘living room light on’ or ‘living room light off’. It works really well. Have you perhaps tried connecting a temperature sensor to those 0-3V analogue inputs and, for example, displaying the water temperature in the boiler, so that if it exceeds a certain value, it sends an email and switches the boiler off?
And my second question is: have you connected two Sterbox units together?
#13 9926483 14 Sep 2011 15:52

palacz997 palacz997

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9926483 14 Sep 2011 15:52

On the other hand, the PLC2011A0 and B0 feature a cryptographic system for securing data transmission based on an encryption accelerator. Using a standard web browser is just asking for someone to break into your home.
If I were to control the systems responsible for property security – i.e. roller shutters, gates, door locks and alarms – I’d only go for the PLC2011
I’ve been reading the documentation and it appears that it has inputs ready for 230V AC without additional circuits, and they’re isolated too. So, when you compare the Sterbox to the PLC2011 in terms of the number of inputs and outputs and the ability to control circuits, it works out to be the same financially.
It depends on what is needed and by whom. The PLC1011 comes in versions A0 and B0. B0 is for measurement and alarm functions.
#14 9928864 15 Sep 2011 09:17

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9928864 15 Sep 2011 09:17

The PLC2011A0 controller does indeed have encryption. However, I would disagree with you regarding the security of the Sterbox. Not because I use it myself, but because there are plenty of ways to secure a local network – which is the kind of environment it should operate in. Such encryption certainly provides additional security.
Generally speaking, the PLC2011A0 controller is also an interesting device; I even considered it at the start. Then the financial aspect and intended use came into play, but since the Sterbox fully met my expectations, I saved a few pennies. . Generally speaking, one could write something about every device, but the final choice is up to the user anyway, and our descriptions on the forum are meant to help us. As you wrote, it depends on what each person needs.
#15 9929165 15 Sep 2011 11:21

Dinkss Dinkss

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9929165 15 Sep 2011 11:21

Has anyone here already set up the temperature sensor on this Sterbox?
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#16 9929292 15 Sep 2011 12:11

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9929292 15 Sep 2011 12:11

Dinkss wrote:
Has anyone managed to get the temperature sensor working on this Sterbox yet?

I’ve connected the LM35 temperature sensor and it works. The LM35 costs just a few zlotys; it can be powered from 12V, has three wires, and connecting it isn’t particularly difficult and doesn’t require any additional components.It is used in the server room where it measures the temperature; once a certain temperature is exceeded, it switches on a fan and, at the same time, sends an email about the incident.
#17 9956112 23 Sep 2011 16:41

lukas_t1 lukas_t1

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9956112 23 Sep 2011 16:41

Has anyone here installed an IB system, for example on a Sterbox or one of the other models mentioned above? I’m asking because I’m considering one of these solutions myself, but as a beginner, I’ve got a few questions

PS If anyone would like to read up on or help with my project, you can find me here:
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#18 9980856 01 Oct 2011 00:49

palacz997 palacz997

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9980856 01 Oct 2011 00:49

I have the PLC2011A0 and PLC2011B0 and I’m very happy with them. This controller has practically everything you need, so there’s no need to buy anything else – just some small gel rechargeable batteries. The buffer power supply with charging is built in. The B0 model is particularly good, and with both of them together, there’s no need to buy anything more expensive.
http://www.elkom.com.tw/relay_b/PLC2011B0_Instrukcja_polska_036.pdf
#19 10637939 05 Mar 2012 19:01

Zibiland Zibiland

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10637939 05 Mar 2012 19:01

palacz997 wrote:
I have the PLC2011A0 and PLC2011B0 and I’m very happy with them. This controller has practically everything you need, so there’s no need to buy anything else. Just some small gel rechargeable batteries. The buffer power supply with charging is built in. The B0 model is particularly good, and with both of them together, there’s no need to buy anything more expensive.
http://www.elkom.com.tw/relay_b/PLC2011B0_Instrukcja_polska_036.pdf

Could you send me details of how you connected the roller shutter and garage door controls?
I’m interested in the option to open/close all the roller shutters and open/close the balcony roller shutter.
I’m also interested in one more thing: what happens if the controller breaks down? How do I open the roller shutters and switch on the lights, etc.?
I know that the PLC2011A0 controller can function as a staircase light switch, and we are setting up the system in the same way as for a staircase installation, except that the final component is the controller’s relay.
#20 10639214 05 Mar 2012 22:20

Ligi Ligi

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10639214 05 Mar 2012 22:20

I’d also like to ask for a wiring diagram for connecting the controller to the roller shutters and the gate. I’d like to be able to control each roller shutter individually using switches and the controller, and also have a single switch that closes all the roller shutters. I’d also like to control the lighting and the entrance gate. If anyone could send me a diagram so I know how to wire it up at home and how many controllers I need to buy, I’d be very grateful.
#21 10703163 21 Mar 2012 12:56

Zibiland Zibiland

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10703163 21 Mar 2012 12:56

Ligi wrote:
I’d also like to ask for a wiring diagram for connecting the controller to the roller shutters and the gate. I’d like to be able to control each roller shutter individually using switches and the controller, and also have a single switch that closes all the roller shutters. I would also like to control the lighting and the entrance gate. If anyone could send me a diagram so that I know how to connect it at home and how many controllers to buy, I would be very grateful.

I was also looking for a solution like this, and following discussions with Mr Piotr Modrzejewski from POORK, diagrams showing various ways of connecting roller shutters have been posted on the website http://www.sterbox.eu/instrukcje/Rolety_silnik.pdf. The same will apply to gates and similar devices.

I am interested in a slightly different connection option, namely connecting the roller shutters and lighting in such a way that, in the event of a controller failure, manual control via buttons is possible. To implement this idea for the lighting, I routed everything through bistable relays, with the controller’s relay acting as one of the switches.
.
This setup allows me to switch the lighting on using the buttons or remotely, e.g. via a phone.
The problem I need to solve is sending a signal to the controller that the light has been switched on via the button and is now lit. The same applies to switching it off. I was thinking of sending a signal to the input, but I still need to work that out. If anyone has another idea, I’d be grateful for suggestions.

In the case of the roller blinds, I wanted local control via buttons, central control via a button, and remote control via a mobile phone, etc. The concept is already in place; I just need to draw it up.
#22 10704254 21 Mar 2012 18:10

Anonymous Anonymous

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Post #22
10704254 21 Mar 2012 18:10

student_Wojtek wrote:
After speaking to the PLC211A0 sales representative, I now know everything.
I also spoke to the Sterbox sales representative. It seems to have more capabilities, and costs half as much. It’s just that getting it up and running is a bit more complicated.

Has no one really set up a Sterbox?

The main advantage of the Sterbox is the ability to control any output on controller no. 1, and inputs on, say, controller no. 3.
Sterbox units can communicate with each other, a feature lacking in Chinese controllers.
The intelligence of a home based on Chinese controllers ceases the moment we are out of range or, for example, at the theatre with our phone switched off.
The system will not be able to shut off the water if a flood is detected, nor will it cut off the gas if a smoke detector is triggered.
Unless, of course, we set everything up on separate controllers and group them, but this increases costs and results in unused inputs or outputs.
The so-called alarm system, i.e. the PLC2011B0, lacks an event log, certification as an alarm device, or fault indication (e.g. for power supply failure).
Two buffer power supplies with batteries are also required.
For the price of this pseudo-alarm, you can buy a Satel system on Allegro, complete with sensors, a housing, a battery and an external siren.

Sterbox – costs half as much as the Chinese knock-off and has twice the capabilities.
#23 10722636 26 Mar 2012 20:32

ghost-001 ghost-001

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Post #23
10722636 26 Mar 2012 20:32

Hello

I own a Sterbox with RS485 and I use it more as a bit of a toy.
In my humble opinion, it has many shortcomings and flaws:
- it does not support the 1Wire bus
- no PWM control
- analogue inputs are only 0-3V instead of 0-10V, which also ‘have a mind of their own’ – i.e. the values fluctuate, and even inputs with nothing connected to them already display some value, like a cheap multimeter
- programming involves navigating through numerous web browser windows and using logical operators
I contacted a representative regarding the introduction of 1Wire and PWM support, but unfortunately they have other priorities.
They were also supposed to improve support for analogue inputs in the new software version, but I haven’t noticed any difference in how the LM335 temperature sensor is handled.
Whilst playing around with it, I spotted numerous shortcomings, ranging from typos to strange behaviour after using certain functions

Perhaps they will fix the issues I’ve mentioned above in software version 3.x.x.

Best regards
#24 10723735 26 Mar 2012 23:49

Anonymous Anonymous

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Post #24
10723735 26 Mar 2012 23:49

ghost-001 wrote:

I contacted a representative regarding the introduction of 1Wire and PWM support, but unfortunately they have other priorities.

What are they? If they said so.
#25 10724123 27 Mar 2012 08:55

ghost-001 ghost-001

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Post #25
10724123 27 Mar 2012 08:55

I also asked these questions on their YouTube channel; some of them have been answered there.
Link
I won’t quote the email correspondence; there’s quite a lot of it.
#26 10904094 16 May 2012 20:14

Zibiland Zibiland

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Post #26
10904094 16 May 2012 20:14

I’ve installed a total of two Sterbox systems that control the lighting, sockets, blinds and garden watering (I haven’t set that up yet) – 24 relays in all – and I’ve got no complaints. As for the setup, it is indeed a problem for a layman. The manufacturer is very helpful and assists in resolving any issues.
I’m currently planning to buy two more for controlling the heating. I had a problem with the setup, but Mr Piotr quickly sent me instructions on what to do and how to set it up.
#27 10918885 21 May 2012 10:59

mariusz.lubicz mariusz.lubicz

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Post #27
10918885 21 May 2012 10:59

student_Wojtek wrote:
Thanks, so I’ll read up more on the PLC2011A0 and B0
Tell me, is it possible, for example, to edit the software? I’d like to write it with a slightly better graphical interface.

After all, there are DLL libraries for several programming languages. You can create whatever user interface you like and send it a command from the programme. I’m currently writing in C#. It’s dead simple:

First, we process the password once by concatenating the password and salt strings and calling a single function:

Code: text Expand Select all Copy to clipboard
EL_process_password(textBox1.Text + textBox2.Text); // This executes the key expamsion and all SHA256 stuff

Then, for example, we send states to the inputs and outputs using the appropriate code 0x01, 0x02, 0x05 etc., depending on what we want to do:

Code: text Expand Select all Copy to clipboard
EL_send_a ( (byte)'A', // Device type we send the command to 0, // Delay command by 0 to 255 seconds (delay is inside the PLC) textBox3.Text.Trim(), // String IP Address of the relay ex: "10.0.5.100" Convert.ToInt32(textBox4.Text.Trim()), // Int UDP port of the relay ex: 27136 1000, // Transmit timeout over the network in miliseconds "Central European Standard Time", // The name of the standard timezone where the relay is located 0x01, 0x01, 0x01, 0x01, 0x01, 0x01, // byte: INPUT1, INPUT2...INPUT6 0x01, 0x01, 0x01, 0x01, 0x01, 0x01, 0x01 // byte: RELAY1, RELAY2...RELAY7 );

And it’s sent to the device. The DLL handles the networking, encryption and all the sending and receiving. And what’s above is our only interaction with the hardware.
I’m currently learning to code in C#, but there are also DLLs available for Delphi and C++.
I don’t need to worry about variables containing passwords and keys, as the DLL takes care of that.
Actually, I mainly create my own graphics. I’m very happy with it.
#28 10919183 21 May 2012 12:52

palacz997 palacz997

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Post #28
10919183 21 May 2012 12:52

mariusz.lubicz wrote:

After all, there are DLL libraries for several programming languages. You can create whatever user interface you like and send it a command from the programme. I’m currently writing in C#. It’s dead simple:

What language is it programmed in? How much do the programming tools cost? Could you write a bit more about the programming? Where do the examples you’re giving come from?
#29 10961820 03 Jun 2012 11:55

Zibiland Zibiland

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Post #29
10961820 03 Jun 2012 11:55

Does anyone use the PLC2011A0 or PLC2011B0 for heating control, and could you share how it works for you?

I’ve had no luck with my Sterbox in this regard; it can switch on the boiler and other devices, but I can’t, for example, programme several different temperatures throughout the day. There’s no smooth way to adjust the temperature, and it’s limited to just three analogue sensors .

I am looking for another solution for the following requirements:
Gas boiler heating.
There are central heating distribution units on both the ground floor and the first floor, with solenoid valves fitted on each circuit (5 circuits each). Every room has a temperature sensor.
I am looking for a controller – two in total – which will switch the solenoid valves on or off based on the set temperature in a given room and allow several temperatures to be set throughout the day, e.g.
06:00-08:00 – temp. 21°C
08:00–15:00 – temp. 18°C
15:00–22:00 – temp. 21°C
22:00–06:00 – temp. 18°C
#30 11041263 25 Jun 2012 20:15

palacz997 palacz997

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Post #30
11041263 25 Jun 2012 20:15

Zibiland wrote:
Does anyone use the PLC2011A0 or PLC2011B0 for heating control, and could you tell me how it works?

I’ve just switched over the system. I’m currently in the process of refurbishing the boiler room and the automation system. I’ve set it up so that it uses two thermostats with the PLC2011B0. All I can say is that you can set a normal temperature and a reduced temperature, the so-called night-time reduction. You can also exclude an additional 3 time slots from normal heating to reduced heating. Everything can be programmed there. The best part is the internet integration.

And here is a diagram showing how to build and connect the lighting circuit so that you still have light in the event of an electronics failure. An interesting diagram, I recommend taking a look:

http://www.elkom.com.tw/m/PLC2011A0_PLC2011B0_PLC2011C0_circuits.pdf

Attachments:

PLC2011A0_circuits_lights01.pdf (169.68 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
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